Air Compressor moisture question

[RandyL]

For 20 years I had a small Sears horizontal tank compressor...did tons of body work, paint jobs etc...ran it to death. When ever I would drain it water would run across the floor. I used ice buckets and all the tricks to trap water when the paint was at hand....all seemed normal.

A couple years ago I inherited a 5hp 60 gal vertical tank unit..it has me lost as to moisture concerns. Water blows out the hose while doing any reasonable amount of work. The 60 gallon tank seems warm as well. I have tried to drain it a number of times and always get only air...no water out of the bottom of the tank. I can hardly believe this. Once in a while a teaspoon worth is on the floor when I drain it. The outlet air hose goes in the the side of the tank, and there is another bung about 2 ft lower, about a foot from the bottom. Is there internal plumbing I don't know about??????? No books with the compressor, but it is a light weight, Lowes, Home depot, type compressor.. I am amazed at my problem.

Randy

 

[Fixnair]

It's all about condensation. To condense the moisture out of the air you have to cool it. It sounds like your compressor is not working properly and discharging overly hot air into the receiver. The air is not in the receiver long enough to cool. It then leaves the r'cvr hot and cools in your lines. This is where the condensation takes place. Hence the water in your airlines. Find some way to cool your air prior to it entering the receiver. Bad valves in your compressor will heat the outgoing air beyond normal. What is normal? 250*

 

[brass89]

If I'm understanding, with the vertical compressor you're now getting water at the end of your hose (aka tools). I haven't used a ton of compressors for comparison, had a large vertical unit in the auto shop I worked at. It would drain water from a couple different places, one in the back room next to the compressor itself and another that fed outside the building - so I wonder if it had 2 drains on it. Even so, both drains could be bled dry and tools would still get soaked.

The problem was the compressor was in a heated portion of the building and the air supply lines (metal) ran dozens of feet inside the unheated shop bays. Condensation was forming in the delivery lines, after the compressor and after the drain options. About the only solution I know of is to use in line driers close to the air outlet(s) (wherever you're plugging your air hose into). I'm not sure how long your hard lines are from the compressor, but that may be where the condensation is forming and you'll never fully get rid of it even draining the tank.

 

[Jvvmusme]

http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.VC1FIH-9KSM



I made this water separator myself and it works fine

http://www.tptools.com/Water-Separator-and-Regulator-Piping-Kit,7428.html

 

[mikeburris]

I would take the valve out of the bottom of the tank and stick a piece of wire (bent so you can scrape around the lip of the tank) and see if it has a buildup of crud allowing air out but not the water.

 

[Cyberbear]

Air compressor water vapor is the result of two much water vapor going in when the compressor is operating, pretty basic stuff. You may wish to concentrate on stopping the water vapor from entering the intake of your a/c by using a good commercial pre-filter, as well as again filtering the air when it leaves the a/c. I also suggest an automatic drain valve
that operates each time the unit starts up.

 

[RandyL]

Thanks for the ideas....

I do understand the basics of condensation but sure needed a nudge to get me thinking differently about my problem.

For the most part, I think the tank is too hot for only running a few cycles...I would never had thought about a compressor problem like bad valves. I did not know they made pre-filters. I have worked with compressors with auto drains and they are nice..we had them at out last shop.

I need to go out and look it all over again now with a fresh outlook. I still don't know why they built the tank with 2 large outlet..one about a foot from the bottom and the other about 2 ft from the top...and that is where my air hose is connected. I don't have an answer yet but I do have more ideas now.

I have done the body work on two motorcycles, painted them both, and do shop work on cars, trucks, and tractors daily since changing to this compressor...never any water out of the bottom drain...only air with a slight mist...sure beats me!!!! I think the warm / hot tank may not be right.

 

[RandyL]

Those links are great too.... I'm gonna build a wall mount iron pipe cooler also.. I like stuff like that! Thanks..

 

[Cyclotronguy]

Back to High school chemistry and the combined gas laws. Store air at as high a pressure as you can, use at as low a pressure as you can......cool it as much as you can.......drain tank of excess as frequently as you can.

To stay water free at the point of use, you only have to get below dew point

Cyclotronguy

 

[JLenegan]

The more humidity in the air, the more water in the tank. I have hardly any water come out of the drain in the winter.

 

[SeattleKent]

I made this water separator myself and it works fine

http://www.tptools.com/Water-Separator-and-Regulator-Piping-Kit,7428.html

+1

I'm a big fan of the "TP Tools plan" to prevent moisture from getting in the lines. Here is a pointer to the TP Plan.

I did this in my garage except I don't have a water separator at each drop. Not needed. Never had a drop of water reach output here in rainy Seattle.

Here is another thread discussing the issue. I have the same basic setup as "Shootingblanks".

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Not to sound insulting, but is it possible your air line is plumbed to the drain? Many tanks have a bung on the side that has a pickup tube that runs to the bottom for water removal. It's easier to access than a bottom drain. Just a thought...

Tommy

 

[RandyL]

I appreciate your attitude in your post, but, I don't find it insulting at all.

There are 2 bungs on the side of this upright tank and the hose fitting was installed by the previous owner into the upper hole..I have left it that way so far. I was kind of hoping that someone would chime in with a thought of why there are 2 possible locations on this vertical tank.
The thought crossed my mind that there may be plumbing on the inside that I know nothing about.
In a year of running I have never drained enough water out to mention...with my old, little compressor I would flood the garage in the same amount of time.

Thanks for all the ideas and links....

Randy

 

[RandyL]

I'll get a photo tonight..............

 

[RandyL]

This is it..

 

[Cyberbear]

In my experience, the two bungs were primarily used to visually inspect the interior of the tank to observe the rust progression. In some applications, mainly commercial, the local safety or OSHA inspectors require a regular check for public safety reasons. We had regular inspections at our facility by a guy with a flash light and a mirror. We used to put water soluble oil into our large a/c to prevent rust at the bottom from the water condensation, seemed to work, no rust leaks.

 

[g3bill]

Why not do things different and go to web site to down load manual? Theres a list of model numbers to choose from, call them with questions. hope this helps... http://www.powermate.com/air_compressors/product_detail.php?model=ML7006016

ps. magna force is under power mate

Customer Service: 1-800-628-8815

 

[22george]

Good useful info here

Much appreciated