air compressor oil drain rerouting

[My2boys]

My oil drain on my compressor is in a bad place. I was planning on using some pipe and move it to a better location. The only pipe I can find that is the size I need is galvanized. The question I have is will the gaovanized pipe be ok with the oil in the compressor.

Thanks for the help

 

[trbomax]

It will work just fine.

 

[My2boys]

K thanks, I didn't know if the galvanized coating would come off and hurt the bearings or something.

 

[kams1973]

Like Tmax said, you'll be fine. However, if you still have any lingering doubt, use brass.

 

[BrianC636]

Like Tmax said, you'll be fine. However, if you still have any lingering doubt, use brass.

This is what I did....and put a valve inline close to the pump.

 

[BirdRacer]

K thanks, I didn't know if the galvanized coating would come off and hurt the bearings or something.

If it's for the drain, the old oil and any galvanized coating that might come off wouldn't drain back into the motor would it?

 

[dirttracker18]

If it's for the drain, the old oil and any galvanized coating that might come off wouldn't drain back into the motor would it?

That's what I was thinking.

I have the same issue and I was thinking of adding a ball valve and then extending the pipe out.

It's not like there are people screwing around in my garage that might let the oil out. It's up high so kids can't reach it and it would make it very convenient.

Any reasons not too?

 

[EOC_Jason]

I've seen quite a few compressors come from the factory with a ball-valve coming out of the drain, then a short piece of pipe, and it still has a cap on the end (just in case).

 

[BrianC636]

I'll snap a picture of what I did on mine tonight. Basically, 1/8" to 1/4" pipe adapter (pump to valve) then a 1/4" ball valve, a street 90 then a 4" ******.

I can slide a hose over the ******, route the house into a drain pan and walk away.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't do this.

 

[pepi]

If it's for the drain, the old oil and any galvanized coating that might come off wouldn't drain back into the motor would it?

How do you figure?

 

[Grounded Ken]

If you can't reroute far enough try one of these:

http://www.newpig.com/pig/US/pig-form-a-funnel-flexible-draining-tool-tls703?cm_cat=keyword_search

Works when you don't know what the next compressor setup is going to be.

 

[BirdRacer]

How do you figure?

Well, I said motor, but obviously I meant pump.

I guess the way I was looking at it was, if there is any flaked off galvanized coating in the pipe, when you drain the oil, that gets flushed out the pipe. Normally the drain doesn't angle downhill towards the pump, so the old oil/crud shouldn't be draining back towards the pump. If that was a concern, I would bend the drain pipe slightly downward.

 

[DHS]

I just used an 1/8" x 1/4" backflow test ****. You have to use a screwdriver to open it and it is all brass so no issues with flaking or corrosion. When I need to drain my oil I just tip the compressor forward and open the valve.


This is what I used.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L9L7MC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Gary S]

Galvanizing isn't a problem. What you do need to be aware of is that extending the drain with a rigid pipe makes it more vulnerable to metal fatigue and failure from vibration of the compressor. I would recommend using some kind of flexible line that won't suffer from vibration.

 

[PT Doc]

Does anyone have photos of a factory installed oil drain setup?

 

[rlitman]

Galvanizing isn't a problem. What you do need to be aware of is that extending the drain with a rigid pipe makes it more vulnerable to metal fatigue and failure from vibration of the compressor. I would recommend using some kind of flexible line that won't suffer from vibration.

Good point. If you're extending the drain a few inches, this won't matter, but if you're plumbing the drain a few feet, this can be a real problem.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Most I've seen people just extend them a few inches, maybe a ball valve (which I think it a little overkill)... From there you can just stick a piece of vinyl tubing on the end and let it drain into a container... No need to go all crazy, it's not like people are changing their compressor oil monthly...

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I did this a while ago with my oil compressor... Gives you an idea, but makes the oil changes much easier and pretty much zero mess....



Pretty much used an 1/8 npt ball valve. Used the little pipe extension and then put a cap on the end just in case there is a little leakage but there isn't anything that ever leaks.

Works out very well.

-Nigel

 

[Burgerkong]

I'm planning on installing a Dahl brass ball valve on my pump and then plumbing a soft copper line to the other end.

 

[jonathan75]

I'm planning on installing a Dahl brass ball valve on my pump and then plumbing a soft copper line to the other end.

I like the short handle. I picked up one at HD but it has a long handle. The one you found is more subtle. Is it WOG?

This one looks good too. It only cost more then the pump.

http://www.ferguson.com/FergusonSearch/RecordDetails.action?R=PROD_327755&search=true

 

[Burgerkong]

I like the short handle. I picked up one at HD but it has a long handle. The one you found is more subtle. Is it WOG?

This one looks good too. It only cost more then the pump.

http://www.ferguson.com/FergusonSearch/RecordDetails.action?R=PROD_327755&search=true

Negative. Their smaller mini ball valves are not rated for oil or gas. I am thinking of replacement the giant handle with something smaller. If won't get in the way regardless since there's around 8" between the edge of the mounting bracket and the pump drain.

I have seen a member on here plumb one into his Quincy though, identical to what I want to do, I swear I saved the picture somewhere but I can't find it.

EDIT: It's not a Quincy, but it's your buddy with the SB clone pump: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3187785&postcount=1735

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/other-articles/477599-air-compressor-maintenance-drain-valve.html

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196406

I'm pretty sure HD sells a Watt's valve that is WOG rated.

 

[Burgerkong]

I was going to pick these up from him:

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...steel-ball-valve-BRAND-NEW-W0QQAdIdZ462934035

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...alve-BRAND-NEW-2-available-W0QQAdIdZ462933270

 

[Burgerkong]

You are in luck, Zoro Tools has them available, plus you get to take $5 off of $10 purchases!

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Full-Port Brass Mini Ball Valves/00056580/

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207011

 

[jonathan75]

I think I will stick with my HD valve. It is WOG and looks well made. The Zoro one looks a bit rough.