Air Compressor oil

[Kenskip1]

Before anyone tells me about the search thread, I went through three pages and did not find what I was searching for.
So today went to O'reilly's and asked for air compressor oil.Well the attendant misinterpreted my request and handed me oil for air conditioning.Anyway his cohort handed me a gallon of air compressor oil.$23.79 Well this will not due. What do others use? My compressor is 60 gallon Husky. It is a two stage with a 3.75 HP motor. I do not know where the owner manual is at this time.Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards a straight 30 weight. Thanks, Ken

 

[speedfreek1210]

Home Depot or the local hardware store should be able to set you up with a quart or 2 of compressor oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[rlitman]

You can always use non-detergent 30 wt oil.
I use Mobil 1 5w30. Full synthetic oil doesn't foam like HD detergent oil, so it's ideal for compressor use.

 

[speedfreek1210]

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/a9/a9f30da0-676a-460b-973a-63c9688af60e.pdf


Page 17


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[sberry]

I would think about the Mobil 1 as it is listed but also the Amsoil comp stuff. Either 1 could be good for the life of the unit. I think its about 20 weight. I bet a quart does it. You don't have to store 3 you may never need from a gallon.

 

[gungatim]

I've always just used whatever 5/30 or 10/30 motor oil I have on hand. never wore a compressor pump out in 32 yrs...

 

[Kenskip1]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going the 30 weight route.It's not like this thing is going to spin 6500 RPM's or reaching temperatures over 300 degrees. Thanks Ken

 

[rlitman]

Just remember that there is a difference between HD30 (what is sold as straight 30 weight oil), and ND30, which is more appropriate for a compressor. Yours is splash and not pressure lubricated, right?

 

[MoonRise]

re: manual

Go online and search for the appropriate manual.

re: oil

By me, IIRC, Tractor Supply usually has non-detergent I-R compressor oil. To go with their I-R air compressors.

Some of the auto parts places usually carry non-detergent oil as well.

Or again, just go online and order some air compressor oil.

 

[bsaint]

ISO 100 hydraulic oil is good for reciprocating compressors.It has low to no ash which is the difference between recip and engine oil.

The refer oil wouldve been almost fine but its usually too thin.

 

[Sam'sAutoParts]

For my Kobalt compressor I usually swing by Lowes and grab a pint off the shelf. It takes synthetic, and it has a sticker on the tank that has a warning to only use synthetic oil.

For the other two I own, I get the regular non synthetic air compressor oil from my Local True Value.

 

[pcmeiners]

Amsoil compressor oil study......

http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001...ves/g1592-2005-archived-05-28-2013/index.html

 

[sberry]

I saw one a while back that had the same oil for 50 years and looked perfect. Oil is better than it ever was today. In many cases we are putting oil that hadn't been invented or wasn't even a ********* in older units when they were made.

 

[bob15]

I've had good luck with Royal Purple compressor oil.

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-content/uploads/PS_Synfilm_Recip.pdf

 

[sberry]

It's hard to anaylize some of this but had royal in my main 10 yrs and it came out nice, almost felt guilty changing it. The store changed to Amsoil so I did that. I think I still have royal in a spare and portable.

 

[hangfirew8]

Available locally but everything priced crazy high. I wish I could find a gallon for $23. So I just got this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I5RCVS

Not synthetic, but "all weather" should be fine for indoor use in my attached garage.

If you got the 30W route, be sure and get non-detergent as stated. I would not recommend even a synthetic motor oil. It still has detergent and will suspend not separate from water.

 

[bcradio]

Anyway his cohort handed me a gallon of air compressor oil.$23.79 Well this will not due.

Why not?

 

[Markfothebeast]

Air compressor oil is designed to be less combustible. The same theory applies to air conditioning compressors. I would have no complaints other than the price tag. I paid $8 at my expensive local hardware store. (I have a 60 gal Husky)

 

[gungatim]

Amsoil compressor oil study......

http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001...ves/g1592-2005-archived-05-28-2013/index.html

You do realize that is based on rotary screw compressors, not everyday homeowner piston pump compressors...just sayin'.

 

[Notgrownup]

I use Lowes kobalt Syn compressor oil, I found it by the compressors.

 

[sberry]

It was small so I didn't read it on the phone but a good reason for the test on rotary is that many common comps found in small garages get so few hours on them it would be tuff to evaluate.
For the most part,,,,,,,, unless one is a professional body shop hours add up slowly. Mine comes on a couple a day due to leak I am going to find one of these days and we sanded an hour yesterday but in a home garage a comp can go a long time with little use.

 

[sberry]

I got a mechanic bud, bought a used Sears 2 stage upright, used it daily, changed once in 30 years, fixed a starter and tightened the belt a time or 2 and it still works like the day we installed it, I am sure he used dino.
Most people can't or won't wear a comp out.

 

[aka Larry]

I too have 60 Gallon Husky and the manual says to use 10W-30 Mobil One Synthetic, which is what I use. I change it about every 18 months, which is probably overkill since my compressor is used less than 1 hour per week.

 

[sberry]

It's ok to change oil but one reason you use good synthetic is so you don't have to. It's good for a decade or way more at that rate. I got a bud who runs the Mobil in his car cause some some sportscar reccomends it on their warranty,,, in the oil change place 2 x a month. I try to splain, 2 x a year not 2 a month. Hit a deer and totaled it out with fresh oil in the engine.
One of the things I love about modern stuff is reduced maintenance. I hated oil change, plugs and points, valve jobs. I started adding a thousand or 2 to changes in early 80's with the advent of emissions. Now we never stop for it, they get it when they are in for other work if they need it. I got some run for years, they will never get another change.
I change my main comp a few ago, not sure when that will happen again but got 3 others will see their lifetime with the oil in them now.

 

[trekgod3]

https://www.harborfreight.com/16-fl-oz-compressor-oil-68096.html

 

[Roberts210]

The problem with using automotive, multigrade detergent oil in a compressor is that it will dry out on the piston tops, reed valves and on the head. I've pulled apart compressors that had been run for years with automotive oil and the crud on the pistons and inside the head is impressive.

 

[pcmeiners]

You do realize that is based on rotary screw compressors, not everyday homeowner piston pump compressors...just sayin'.

Most of the tests, if not all, would be solid for either type compressor.

 

[malibu101]

Where I work there are many air compressors.
Their oil is regularly changed with Mobil Rarus 427 air compressor oil so that's what I use in mine too.

These compressors are in service for many years and have MANY hours on them. They have no oil related problems.

 

[Trey T]

I use 5w30 full synthetic, simply because I stock them for my truck oil change.

I run Quincy 210 and Champion PL-15A pumps, both pressure-lubricated pumps.

 

[blake101]

I use the air compressor oil from Harbor Freight just change it like the manual says.

 

[Kenskip1]

Well to bring this thread to a spell binding conclusion, I went to Lowes and purchased a 16 ounce of Kobalt air compressor oil.Draining the oil into a shallow pan I was able to see many particles. Of what I do not know but if I was panning for gold, this would have been a good place to start.The compressor took the entire 16 ounces.And the drain plug is not 1/4 inch pipe thread. More like 5/16. Anyway, the task has been brought to a successful conclusion. Thanks for all the words of wisdom, Ken

 

[rlitman]

...the drain plug is not 1/4 inch pipe thread. More like 5/16...

If it's tapered, it's probably 3/8 NPT, with the fill plug being 1/4 NPT. If it has straight threads and a gasket, it might be proprietary.

Knowing that, if you feel like draining and refilling more often, you could always put a ball valve on there.

Anyway, getting that metal out is a good thing. You probably won't see nearly as much the next oil change. That's a break-in sort of issue.