Air Compressor Piping

[m1helmethead]

I'm looking to plumb my new 7.5 HP 80 gallon air compressor 25 SCFM @ 90 PSI. I have no idea where to start other then what I've read on the web which is rather confusing. My plan is to run the pipe out of the compressor and up the wall to the ceiling then bring it back down in a 50 ft. zigzag to the floor install a drain then bring it back to the ceiling and circle my garage putting a drop leg in each corner. This brings me to a total of about 170 ft. of piping.

1. At 170 ft of piping I have read I should run 1 inch diameter piping in order to reduce pressure drop. Is this correct?

2. When you drop to a filter or a quick connect how do you take the pipe down to 3/4 or 1/4 in order to pipe to said filter or quick connect? doesn't this create a bottle neck in the system?

3. What type piping should I use? My compressor is rated to go up to 175 PSI and I don't want to blow my piping up once I have it installed.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Travis1]

I ran a similar set up in my shop, 22cfm compressor at 90 psi and 175 max psi. I have about 200 total running feet and I used black pipe with drains at every drop point. I ran 3/4 inch pipe throughout the shop, I noticed a slight pressure drop but it really is not bad. If the outlet on your compressor is 1 inch then I would consider running pipe that big but it is probably not necessary. Most compressors that size seem to have a 3/4 inch outlet from the compressor tank.

Question 2 - At each drop I ran a "T" with a reducer bushing and then my quick connect or regulator. Then I ran a 2 inch piece of pipe and a valve at the bottom of the "T" to act as a drain. Seems to work good for me so far

Question 3 - I did a lot of research on this and you will read a lot of opinions. I would recommend either galvanized pipe, black pipe or copper. Using PVC is not a good idea and has documented cases of failure where people have been seriously hurt or killed. PVC may say it is rated for 300 psi, however that is for water which is a different type of pressure. again, my opinion is to spend a little more now so you dont have problems in the future.

Also instead of "zigzaging" from your drop points I would just use a "T" so you dont have to run the pipe down to the floor and right back up to the ceiling, this will save you money and time.

GOOD LUCK!

 

[CNGsaves]

Here is link to great drawing of what a proper airline system should look like:
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

Notice the mainline is elevated and then the drops actually go UP first, then go back down for each drop. Also, the entire mainline is sloped slightly downhill away from the compressor so that water has naturally tendency to go downhill to the last drop.

Also notice item F in above drawing that is flexible hose connecting the compressor to airline system. Short section of high-pressure hydraulic hose is what many shops use to handle vibration of the compressor.

If you're thinking of 1" as your mainline, that would be gobs plenty. Then use 3/4" drops and you'll be set for life.

As for material, it's best to pick either copper . . or . . black pipe steel. When properly planned and installed, either will be lifetime system that lasts forever.

Easy way for you to find all the relevenat threads to read on either copper or black pipe steel airlines . . . . is use GOOGLE for following:

copper airline site:garagejournal.com
. . . and . . .
black pipe steel airline site:garagejournal.com

 

[LX-Markham]

Here is link to great drawing of what a proper airline system should look like:

Excellent link! just what I needed!

Joining this site has already paid off
thanks!

 

[sberry]

You dont need inch. Probably dont need 170 ft of pipe. Is this a class 8 truck garage?

 

[NUTTSGT]

1. I used 1/2 black pipe, it's for a home shop so I wasn't worried about any loos.

2. Use the proper size pipe bushing, you'll find them right along side the fittings.

3. The majority of us have used black pipe, galvanized or copper. Bring up PVC will cause a serious debate here. I previously had used it, I put it together before I found GJ and many others around me had done it too.


Somebody has posted the link to TP tools, it's a good link. I merely used Tees for a drop, quick connect off another tee (horizontally) and a ball valve at the bottom for every drop. Going from the compressor to the airline on the wall, you should use something flexible, I bought a section of hydraulic hose at TSC.
I posted pics of my system in my garage refurb, follow the link in my sig, it'll be towards the end of the thread.


Welcome to GJ, don't be afraid to ask questions but do also use the search feature, it does work quite well. If you have specific questions about something, posting a picture will help us answer your questions along with a general location in your profile if you have some specific questions.

 

[pcmeiners]

Calculator for pressure drop, if you run for 3/4" vs 1", very little pressure loss difference
http://www.freecalc.com/gasfram.htm

On the main line, any filters/valves should be the size of the pipe, there is considerable pressure loss through filters which are undersized.

 

[jgsrris11]

Don't use PVC. It can burst and send plastic splinters everywhere. Copper is the best. The black pipe will rust from the inside out from moisture and condensation. In my old shop the water filters start gathering chunks of rust and some would get by and come out in the paint jobs and I had to redo it. After fighting with it for months we realized it was rust from inside the black pipe lines. We replumbed the whole ahop in copper and problem solved.

 

[JakeKohl]

Don't use PVC. It can burst and send plastic splinters everywhere. Copper is the best. The black pipe will rust from the inside out from moisture and condensation. In my old shop the water filters start gathering chunks of rust and some would get by and come out in the paint jobs and I had to redo it. After fighting with it for months we realized it was rust from inside the black pipe lines. We replumbed the whole ahop in copper and problem solved.

I love these threads.

 

[04fivefour]

What about Garage pak ?

 

[Falcon67]

http://www.jgbhose.com/technical-reference-literature/suggested-pipe-size.asp

 

[sberry]

also loss is according to volume, use a pinch it doesn't matter and loss is really moot for the most part. Much of it occurs in the hose and connectors. This is where thought out and simple is real good. Most could get by with a fixed whip or 2 and a hose reel. Ideally there is no removable hoses or hydrants. In my place the men do not have an option, easier to design a problem out than to discipline good habits in.

 

[BellyUpFish]

i love these threads.

lol..

 

[nxcess]

[/ATTACH]While it is not the recommended thing, I have PVC in my shop for over 25 years, here in the heat of AZ. It started failing about three years ago, not the tubing but the fittings leaking. I have had one joint come apart at the glued seam.
Where are you putting your compressor? I put mine behind the shop so it doesn't take up valuable floor space and so I don't have to hear it.
To make sure that I turn it off, I have the switch next to the man door with a light bulb that comes on when the compressor is switched on.
Another idea, by you most used areas, install quick disconnects on the wall ( not plumbed to the air line ) with your air nozzle, air chuck plugged it. That way they are always where you can find them.
At each drop. I put a drain valve.

 

[sberry]

In a common garage my mission would be to keep as much pipe as was pratical the same size, anything I can plumb 1/2 I do, makes it so much easier to make some changes when you can stock a t or lb, a stick of pipe and a couple ******* and something can be added. I found a minor leak in coupler to a line today, will remove it and go to threaded connection, it never has to,,, and should not come apart anyway, its on a fixed in place hose.

 

[njccmd2002]

well i just did this only 30 feet of black steel, and couple of parts i had.. But this is for my home, and i dont use it daily. Not everyone would like it, but you get an idea. I have a collector at every drop.

Depending on how it works i may add more piping or not...

 

[CNGsaves]

well i just did this only 30 feet of black steel, and couple of parts i had.. But this is for my home, and i dont use it daily. Not everyone would like it, but you get an idea. I have a collector at every drop.

Depending on how it works i may add more piping or not...

Those all connected together ?? What is purpose of this??

 

[GYPSY400]

Those all connected together ?? What is purpose of this??

I believe it's a water separator.. I'm going to do something similar when I build my garage.

 

[njccmd2002]

yes, water traps, i paint little car parts, and need the best possible air

 

[66dave]

Why not buy a 5um filter to pre-clean the air, then a coalescing filter....if u have $$ then add a desiccant unit, then at the gun use a disposable point of use filter. The dessicant can lower your air temp to ~35-40', not much water will be left in after that.

That link which was posted is nice. Our company had a Parker Rep come in and talk about fluid flow systems, focusing on CDA (clean dry air), basically all the main points are depicted in that link.

 

[retrobuilder]

I just run 25 foot of 3/4 pipe sloped with a short five foot return (yes could be 1/2") for my Speedaire 2HP portable compressor, One moisture/water collector at end. My understanding is the high psi compressed air requires about 25 foot to allow moisture vapor to condensate to liquid. Then I use a Sharpe water/air filter before my discharge regulator. The Z setup is compact though. Looks good.

 

[budl]

I haven't seen any mention of PEX tubing in this thread. Any opinions?

Bud

 

[retrobuilder]

Would hold pressure but be insulating for heat/pressure related vapor condensing to water.

 

[Coloshaver]

I used black pipe. I did something similar to this to in 1" pipe to act as a water collector then ran 3/4" main line around the top of my shop with 1/2" drops set up like the TP Tools drawing.

The only thing I would do differently and HIGHLY RECOMMEND is put some unions in the main line. Without unions, if you have to fix or change something near the compressor, you'll have to unscrew every section all the way back to the part you need to fix.

 

[66dave]

I haven't seen any mention of PEX tubing in this thread. Any opinions?

Bud

PEX is not UV resistant, if exposed to light for any period of time it can rupture.

 

[rokemester]

Hi, I've seen quite a few threads about distributing shop air. I picked up an old school belt driven Campbell Hausman 2 hp compressor. My plan is to schlep it up to an attic space directly above my main shop space. Based on all that I've read I'm going with 3/4" black pipe, with 1/2" for drops and drains. I only have 1/4" feeding directly from compressor. Am I crazy trying to distribute air? I have a small oil-free 5 gallon Kobalt I my garage now. When it cycles it always gives my heart a jump.

 

[brownbagg]

anybody price pipe lately. that stuff not cheap anymore

 

[rokemester]

That's why so many people probably consider PEX. But black pipe handles moisture issues, and has done for the long haul. I don't want shorten tool life.

 

[Stuart in MN]

This is a four year old zombie thread brought back from the dead, the original poster probably solved their issues a long time ago.

 

[rburke65]

Wow.....just read this entire thing then ya tell me it's 4 years old....

 

[rokemester]

Since I haven't posted much I searched the forum for a relevant thread and thought it best to build on that. Is it better to start a new thread? Im not up with this forum protocol.

 

[jumpstart]

Yes, start a new thread with a title that describes your situation and you'll get lots of help here.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Since I haven't posted much I searched the forum for a relevant thread and thought it best to build on that. Is it better to start a new thread? Im not up with this forum protocol.

Unfortunately, people tend to read the first post in a thread and respond to that, without looking at any subsequent responses or additions. If it's a current thread (say, within the last week) adding on to it will probably work, but adding on to threads older than that don't usually work very well.

 

[rokemester]

Got it. Thanks!