Air compressor plumbing

[Gannz]

Got a little off topic... can I run the black iron to the hose reel after the filters? Or, will the black iron still produce rust/gunk even though my air is relatively dry? I won't be catching the water vapor and this stuff rusts just sitting in my low humidity garage for a couple days. Should I run copper or rubber hose for the 10 ft between the filters and reel?

In case anyone is reading/searching the thread regarding the inlet plumbing... it is noticeably quieter drawing from the crawl. I ran it with and without the PVC for a few seconds to test it and it's worth the effort to do this IMO just for the noise reduction.

 

[KDXSR5]

I think you answered your own question when stating that the pipe rusts and gets nasty just sitting in the garage. I would choose a material other than black pipe for the run post filter, epically since the price difference won't be much for a short run. Post some pics of your setup as you go! We all like pics!

 

[sberry]

I have some black after a filter in a couple places. I use it regularly and with 1/2 the air whizzes thru pretty good and it stays clean. It's dry going in though, used every day. In a modest garage would be tempted to use some hose, but 25 and cut it is a cheap way, can use push locks or barbs and clamps for fixed sections.

 

[Firebrick43]

Black pipe is used universally in the industrial world. Yes it can rust but with good air maybe a 20 + year life span. We are starting to see issues where I work at 35 years. We literally have maybe 50 miles of black air pipe under 40 acres of roof. The biggest issue with black pipe is the constant problems of leaks at the joints. Probably not an issue in a garage.

The reel does need a short section of hose to attach it to the pipe. It would be hard to perfectly align the black pipe to the center bearing, and if not causes undue wear of the rotary unions seals.

My personal preference is L Copper as it can be bent and soldered joints are less likely to leak in years to come.

 

[Gannz]

Good point about lining up the black iron.

I'll go with the Type L copper between filters and reel. It's a little more cost but being flexible as well as tough enough to take a little more abuse than a rubber hose is worth it. And, I won't need swivel fittings or unions. If I need to move/redo it for whatever reason I can just cut/splice/couple it.

I'll get some photos once I actually get some stuff done. LOL

 

[sberry]

Copper is great. I did my last in black and looking back would rethink it in to rolled alum in 3/4 for long runs. I would have no problem running 1/2 in home shops. I got black from Menards and it was filthy and should have took it back.
I have high ceilings and long runs and installing a hose system would have been easier and cost about the same, days work instead of a week.
The OP has such a nice compressor compared to his old one that if it is in good condition should work night and day difference and all this will be pretty much moot. 3 times the air and stored energy at 2 stage. Runs all the common air tools at full power and even big air guns when needed,, or more if. Could air up semi tires. A 5 hp is a respectable unit.

 

[Gannz]

Added bonus... 3/8 Type L is actually $1 cheaper than 3/8 black iron. 1/2 black iron is 50% cheaper than 3/8. Guy at the supply house said no one makes/sells much 3/8 in black iron so the price is double that of the 1/2.

After cutting threads on a few pieces of black iron, I'm questioning my decision to go with it over the copper. Last time I worked with black iron I used a nice power threader. This hand cranking *****. LOL

 

[Firebrick43]

If it's import pipe it threads worse as well in my experience. It tears the threads as you back the dies off. Not as bad with a power threader as the dies trip open automatically at the end of the cut.

After you use a big ridgid 300 or 1224 it's very hard to even use a 600 or 700 hundred power threader!