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Air Compressor Pulling Too Many Amps as it Builds Pressure

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,999
Location
Richmond, VA
So, back at it. No centrifugal switch that I can see. One cap that seems to be functioning. Another buddy recommended re-wiring for 220, that makes lots of these motors 'happier'?
I took apart just about everything looking for issues, motor turns nice and smooth by hand. One thing I did notice is that the check valve gets quite hot as pressure increases. Too hot to touch more than a second. Is this normal?
That isn't a dual voltage motor.

Watts are watts. A dual voltage motor doesn't care what the voltage is as long as it can get the amps it needs without the voltage dropping out of its designed range.

A motor that is "happier" at 240v vs 120v just means it wasn't on the right size wire
 
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mogandave

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Nov 4, 2021
Messages
3,052
Location
Bangkok
So, back at it. No centrifugal switch that I can see. One cap that seems to be functioning. Another buddy recommended re-wiring for 220, that makes lots of these motors 'happier'?
I took apart just about everything looking for issues, motor turns nice and smooth by hand. One thing I did notice is that the check valve gets quite hot as pressure increases. Too hot to touch more than a second. Is this normal?

It's been my experience that everything (suitable for 220) runs better on 220

It is normal for compressors to get hot, as air gets hot when you compress it.
 
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u3b3rg33k

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Dec 18, 2017
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4,051
dual voltage (110/220) motor windings never see more than 110v. parallel for 110v, series for 220v. windings only see 110v in either configuration.
 

hockale1

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Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
2
I was having trouble getting my compressor to pump up over 80 PSI without tripping the breaker. I determined that the main cause was the flow restriction of the tank check valve. I bypassed it and the compressor pumped up to over 200 PSI with no problem. That led me to investigate further. The first thing I did was modify the tank check valve by enlarging the ports by changing them to 45 degrees. This helped a lot. I spent quite a bit of time experimenting and wound up making a solenoid operated gate valve to replace the check valve. After doing this I was able to get my 16 CFM compressor to pump up over 200 psi on a 115V 20 amp circuit.
It’s been a few years, but could you provide a deeper explanation on what hardware you used for your solenoid-actuated gate valve?

While working on various projects recently, I’ve discovered the inherent flow restrictions associated with many of your standard valves and have since been on a mission to optimize valving where practical.

Your reply here has me pondering how I might replace the check valves in my air system (mostly tank inlet valves) with solenoids, and could only find 100 psi capable solenoid valves, primarily the US Solid units. These valves also look like they’re half-moon type gates, not really a full port solution.

Here’s a link to the one I’m considering. I had originally been looking at 1/2 NPT but then figured moving up to 3/4 might alleviate some of the pressure drop concerns.

 
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