I am setting up/wiring my new shop. The air compressor will be in the back corner, basically as far away from the entry door as possible. This gets it out of the way and should help with some noise. 220volt 5 HP. What kind of switch could I mount by the entry door to control the compressor. I would like to be able to leave it on at the compressor and kill power to it when not in use. I would rather not have to open and close the breaker panel. Anyone done anything creative for such a control?
Air Compressor Switch
- Thread starter Bearkat
- Start date
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941
Is it really that simple?
Is it really that simple?
G_P
Well-known member
If it uses a magnetic starter, all you have to do is put a double pole switch in the wires going from the pressure switch to the mag starter. This will kill the coil and prevent the compressor from starting.
That should work, but if the compressor is that far from the door that you don't want to walk over to turn it on and off then it's a long way to run the wiring. Sure, if your panel is near the door then putting the switch in between the panel and the compressor is fine. But if your panel is nearer the compressor then I wouldn't run the wiring all the way up to the door and then back to the compressor.
If you don't have leaks then your compressor shouldn't be running anyways when you're not using the air. Why do you need to turn it off?
ahab
Well-known member
I've been thinking about doing the same thing, but would like an indicator light. Cheapest I can find is a $30 shipped lighted switch
LEVITON 3032-PLC
http://www.gordonelectricsupply.com...ocess~search?gclid=CNKrx534l78CFQIT7AodpjYALg
LEVITON 3032-PLC
http://www.gordonelectricsupply.com...ocess~search?gclid=CNKrx534l78CFQIT7AodpjYALg
HAP
Well-known member
The wiring is not ran, I want to add a shut off within the wiring I run. Panel is right at the door. The distance isnt a huge deal, I can walk over and turn it off, I am just trying to think of all options. I'm setting it up, only want to do it once, and want it very useful. I turn the compressor off when not in use because it sits for most of the week unused.
G_P
Well-known member
Why not just get a disconnect and mount it in a convenient spot and run the power wiring for the compressor through it?
Like this one. You can also padlock this one in the off position if you are working on the compressor to keep someone from turning it on.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-am...-Safety-Switch-TG3221R/202978633?N=5yc1vZbm0h
Like this one. You can also padlock this one in the off position if you are working on the compressor to keep someone from turning it on.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-am...-Safety-Switch-TG3221R/202978633?N=5yc1vZbm0h
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=3032-2I§ion=41455&minisite=10251
Checking at the Leviton site above you will find that the 3032 series switch is only rated for 2hp. So if you intend to use this in the primary wiring your overloading the switch. You cannot ignore the inrush current of a motor!
The 3032 PLC switch is only rated for 120v.
lg
no neat sig line
Checking at the Leviton site above you will find that the 3032 series switch is only rated for 2hp. So if you intend to use this in the primary wiring your overloading the switch. You cannot ignore the inrush current of a motor!
The 3032 PLC switch is only rated for 120v.
lg
no neat sig line
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Thanks, that was my concern. As mentioned above a disconnect would work, I was just hoping for something smaller. Worst case I can just walk to the compressor.
WhoWhatNow
Well-known member
If you are going to switch between the box and the disconnect then you will need a 5 hp rated motor switch.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU724E/?tag=atomicindus08-20
If you switch between the pressure switch and the motor starter than a regular switch will do.
I used the above switch to control the disconnect at the compressor and wired in a light as well. This way when the compressor is powered on the light is on. My compressor is in my basement so it is completely out of sight.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU724E/?tag=atomicindus08-20
If you switch between the pressure switch and the motor starter than a regular switch will do.
I used the above switch to control the disconnect at the compressor and wired in a light as well. This way when the compressor is powered on the light is on. My compressor is in my basement so it is completely out of sight.
MartyO
Well-known member
How long a run are you talking about from the switch to the compressor?
Remember, you will need pretty heavy wiring on a long run, heavy amperage circuit.
The man door to my shop is in front corner and the compressor is at the back opposite corner. it is set up with a simple switch on the 110 leg to control a contactor that turns on the compressor. Think of a switch turning on a switch - much the way we use relays in automotive applications so that a small switch can turn something on like your blower fan.
I will say this was one of the best things I put into my shop. When I walk in, I flip on the compressor and while I get ready to work it airs up. Plus it saves me weaving all the w3ay through the cars stored in my shop to turn on my compressor each time I am in the shop.
Remember, you will need pretty heavy wiring on a long run, heavy amperage circuit.
The man door to my shop is in front corner and the compressor is at the back opposite corner. it is set up with a simple switch on the 110 leg to control a contactor that turns on the compressor. Think of a switch turning on a switch - much the way we use relays in automotive applications so that a small switch can turn something on like your blower fan.
I will say this was one of the best things I put into my shop. When I walk in, I flip on the compressor and while I get ready to work it airs up. Plus it saves me weaving all the w3ay through the cars stored in my shop to turn on my compressor each time I am in the shop.
The MS302 is rated at 5hp:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MPQ51O/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MPQ51O/?tag=atomicindus08-20
MartyO
Well-known member
sands35
Well-known member
I have a three pole Square D disconnect switch. Two of the poles are for the compressor and one pole is for an indicator light off another common outlet circuit. I paid about $30 for the disconnect off Ebay. It has a 60 amp rating at 7hp.
I wanted three poles so I could have the indicator light. I could have used the tap rule for circuits, but my AHJ was squishy on if I could do that. I think I could have done that with a 2P disconnect, but I found a 3P for the same used price so I didn't have to explain my intent on inspection.
My compressor is closer to the door, so no worries about distance. But using a common light switch and a contactor (as above) would be my 1st choice for a long run from the switch to the compressor disconnect.
I wanted three poles so I could have the indicator light. I could have used the tap rule for circuits, but my AHJ was squishy on if I could do that. I think I could have done that with a 2P disconnect, but I found a 3P for the same used price so I didn't have to explain my intent on inspection.
My compressor is closer to the door, so no worries about distance. But using a common light switch and a contactor (as above) would be my 1st choice for a long run from the switch to the compressor disconnect.
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MartyO
Well-known member
Personally, I think the switch is less of a concern than the amount/gauge of wire that will be needed to make the run.
MartyO
Well-known member
This is the thread I had started on the topic:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110638&page=2
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110638&page=2
Just walk back and turn it off at the compressor disconnect switch each day. The tank and lines need to be purged of water daily anyway. This will remind you to do both, also it doesn't hurt to give it a quick visual while you're there just to make sure everything is sound. 
sberry
Banned
Skip all the trouble, run from the breaker to the unit. Its just extra stuff that you don't need. Only reason to put one in is personal protection when they are remote.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
If the compressor is hardwired, and at 5 hp it should be, it is required to have a disconnect within 50 ft of, and within line of sight of, the compressor. Do not plan on using a plug and receptacle. Even a 50 amp plug and receptacle is only rated for 3 hp. To go any higher, you would have to use very pricey pin and sleeve connectors.
If the compressor has a magnetic starter, and I would hope a 5 hp two stage does, the easiest way to prevent it from running is to take one of the wires going to the pressure switch, and run it, using 14 gauge Romex or something similar, to a regular light switch near the door, thru the light switch and back to the pressure switch. You do not need to interrupt both wires at the pressure switch, just one of them.
This leaves power on the magnetic starter, but prevents the pressure switch from powering the magnetic starter coil and operating the compressor.
If you do not have a magnetic starter, you possibly do not have a true 5 hp compressor, but will need to interrupt the main power going to the compressor and switch the full amperage of it, on and off. You will need a switch rated for the amps and the horsepower you are dealing with.
Charles
If the compressor has a magnetic starter, and I would hope a 5 hp two stage does, the easiest way to prevent it from running is to take one of the wires going to the pressure switch, and run it, using 14 gauge Romex or something similar, to a regular light switch near the door, thru the light switch and back to the pressure switch. You do not need to interrupt both wires at the pressure switch, just one of them.
This leaves power on the magnetic starter, but prevents the pressure switch from powering the magnetic starter coil and operating the compressor.
If you do not have a magnetic starter, you possibly do not have a true 5 hp compressor, but will need to interrupt the main power going to the compressor and switch the full amperage of it, on and off. You will need a switch rated for the amps and the horsepower you are dealing with.
Charles
MartyO
Well-known member
doesn't that assume that his panel is near his entrance to the shop?
Aceman
Well-known member
That would work but he would need to fuse the #14 control circuit down to 15 amps or less.
I had one other idea, you could mount one of these to the enclosure to make/break the control circuit, then run 2 wire thermostat cable to a switch to enable the dry contact in the relay.
http://www.functionaldevices.com/pdf/datasheets/RIB21CDC.pdf
http://www.functionaldevices.com/building-automation/drycontact.php
sberry
Banned
I believe it could be 30 for 14 and maybe 50 if it was a 12? (whoops,,, I see he said romex)
I believe it is but it wouldn't really matter, I thin k in this case in the same room of a modest garage,,, basically within sight. If there is a contactor there is a switch, oncwe the unit is on the pressure switch is automatic. If its connected to equipment that leaks fix it or use ball valve at tank.
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MartyO
Well-known member
Personally, in neither of my shops am I prepared to leave my compressor on when someone is going to be absent for an extended period of time. And, in my home shop, if I have to go back to the compressor to open or close a ball valve at the compressor end of things, then I have to walk to the far end of my building and go outside to boot. Yep, I am lazy and I don't want to walk outside every time I start or stop work.
At the end of the day, my contactor set up works great and was relatively cost effective to install.
Y'all are free to come over, see it, and drink the cold beverage of your choice!
600SL
Well-known member
Well here's my approach. I got tired of going up to bed and just before turning out the lights watching the lights dim and reminding me that I forgot to turn off the compressor. This will shut the compressor off with the lights no mater where I turn off the lights. At least that's the theory.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251478
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251478
I used an HVAC style 24v coil contactor. Used a regular wall switch and decora nightlight to turn on the 24v doorbell transformer on a 120v circuit. Low voltage wiring from there to the contactor out back where the compressor is. Contactor in a box with a plug on it for the compressor. Even left the original wiring to the compressor intact to the breaker panel so its all protected still... Hope my description makes sense.
This would work.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU8QUS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
They have 40a versions as well.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU8QUS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
They have 40a versions as well.
dirtybiker
Active member
I have a magnetic starter like others in here also. But I wanted to be able to control the air compressor from either room in my garage. I installed 2 3 way switches, from the pressure switch. Now that I have that installed I would like to set up a light informing me that I have have the compressor on. I got my magnetic starter from eBay. It was cheep and easy to install. I also have a disconnect from the breaker box to the compressor. I ran a drain line from the compressor up the wall to a valve and back down and out side. I have no excuses now not to drain my tank every day. The drain line is probably 1/8" black dot air line but it works has not plugged yet.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
And I thought I was the only one that used them. RIBS Are the best.
This is what I am using for my compressor switch. My compressor is not in the same room:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPQ51O/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Leviton MS302-DS 30 Amp, 600 Volt, Double- Pole, Single Phase AC Motor Starter, Suitable as Motor Disconnect, Industrial Grade, Non-Grounding, Black
In one of the legs, I am powering a 120v indicator light (small 25 watt green bulb) to let me know the power is on (so I don't accidentally leave it on). I thought about getting creative and using a studio "On Air" sign, but why waste $70?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPQ51O/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Leviton MS302-DS 30 Amp, 600 Volt, Double- Pole, Single Phase AC Motor Starter, Suitable as Motor Disconnect, Industrial Grade, Non-Grounding, Black
In one of the legs, I am powering a 120v indicator light (small 25 watt green bulb) to let me know the power is on (so I don't accidentally leave it on). I thought about getting creative and using a studio "On Air" sign, but why waste $70?
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