Air Line Through Garage Wall

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I could use some brainstorming help on bringing compressed air into my garage through drywall.

I have relocated my air compressor to a shed approximately 30' away from the garage. I will be burying PEX, in a conduit, to bring the air back to the garage. I am aware that the ground is cool, moisture condenses out, etc and already have a radiator style air cooler on the compressor. I have 3/4" PEX-A on hand and haven't decided on expansion vs crimp vs cinch/clamp yet.

The PEX will come up through 1-1/2" PVC conduit into an LB:



Something will exit through drywall inside the garage a few inches above the baseboard:



In the LB there will be an elbow. Either PEX-PEX, PEX-Sweat, or PEX-FNPT:



If PEX-PEX then PEX will exit the drywall.
If PEX-Sweat then 3/4" copper will exit the drywall.
If PEX-FNPT then a 3/4" ****** will exit the drywall.

So far, so good. However, now that something has exited the drywall, how to prevent that something from sliding in and out?
Mounting an 18" piece of strut on the drywall, from stud to stud is an option. As is a hardwood 1x4.

The air eventually needs to get to here:


Probably with copper tube either sweated or pressed, but I am really tempted to run PEX all the way and wrap it for UV protection.

Your thoughts?

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Could use a piece of strut and a clamp like this maybe:

 

[ez-duzit]

Use a 1/2" pipe bulkhead fitting.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

If using copper tube or a ****** I might could use a couple of these:



Actually, I could probably 3D print a couple that would be strong enough.

 

[ez-duzit]

If using copper tube or a ****** I might could use a couple of these:



Actually, I could probably 3D print a couple that would be strong enough.

That's not what those are for.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

That's not what those are for.

If I had a dollar for every time I have a used hardware, fixtures, or tools for other than their intended purpose, I would have... I don't know, a lot of dollars.

 

[ez-duzit]

If I had a dollar for every time I have a used hardware, fixtures, or tools for other than their intended purpose, I would have... I don't know, a lot of dollars.

I truly believe that.

 

[jh87]

What if you used a PEX to NPT drop ear elbow and bolted it to the inside of the LB cover?

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

What if you used a PEX to NPT drop ear elbow and bolted it to the inside of the LB cover?

That thought actually did occur to me. Great minds etc. My resistance to it so far is that I would like to be able to remove the LB cover for inspection without disconnecting the line on the other side of the wall. It could possibly still work by putting captive bolts on the drop ears and putting the nuts on the outside of the cover.

 

[racecougar]

I'd switch to NPT at your LB and use an outlet block at the drywall.

 

[jstroede]

I used one of these with some bushings and copper for mine. It looks good and works well.

 

[mike93lx]

I think I would transition to copper outside and skip the whole LB.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I think I would transition to copper outside and skip the whole LB.

An LB makes a nice, clean termination to the conduit. It is located adjacent to all the electrical, internet, etc so it keeps the exterior wall clutter to one area.

I did consider just burying copper all the way, but I like sleeving stuff in conduit for both protection and easy replacement.

Plus, I have already made a 2-1/4" hole in the brick for the LB.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I don't really forget that I have a 3D printer. I *do* forget to think outside the box and utilize the printer to its fullest. It would be pretty trivial to make an insert for the LB to secure the PEX and choice of elbow.

 

[nadogail]

When all else fails, you can try a moldable plastic like JB Weld

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I am confident of a couple of paths forward now with a 3D printed LB insert and maybe a 3D printed shaft collar style escutcheon.

My hangup now is whether to go PEX all the way to the regulator and manifold or transition to copper in the LB.
The advantages of PEX are quick installation, economical, easy to modify.
The advantages of copper are it's pretty and uhh, hmmm.

My copper sweating skills are adequate at best, but I have never had a leak. Of course, I have never had a leak with PEX crimp rings either.

Also having analysis paralysis over PEX expansion vs crimp vs clamp/cinch.

 

[fourjeepin]

What if you used a PEX to NPT drop ear elbow and bolted it to the inside of the LB cover?

this is what I used with crimp connectors as that’s the tool I have. If I had the expansion tool, I would have used it.

 

[mike93lx]

I am confident of a couple of paths forward now with a 3D printed LB insert and maybe a 3D printed shaft collar style escutcheon.

My hangup now is whether to go PEX all the way to the regulator and manifold or transition to copper in the LB.
The advantages of PEX are quick installation, economical, easy to modify.
The advantages of copper are it's pretty and uhh, hmmm.

My copper sweating skills are adequate at best, but I have never had a leak. Of course, I have never had a leak with PEX crimp rings either.

Also having analysis paralysis over PEX expansion vs crimp vs clamp/cinch.

Expansion, if you get a cordless tool. I would not do it with a manual one.

With that said, I still vote copper and propress

 

[67King]

I could use some brainstorming help on bringing compressed air into my garage through drywall.

I have relocated my air compressor to a shed approximately 30' away from the garage. I will be burying PEX, in a conduit, to bring the air back to the garage. I am aware that the ground is cool, moisture condenses out, etc and already have a radiator style air cooler on the compressor.

That'll work in the winter, but in the summer, the ground temp will be cooler than the air temp, and you'll have more condensation. I ran mine above ground along the wall of the house, and have a ball valve before it goes through the brick then drywall. I just used grey conduit boxes on each end to keep it looking nice.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Expansion, if you get a cordless tool. I would not do it with a manual one.

With that said, I still vote copper and propress

I have been keeping an eye out for a good used propress tool at a price I am willing to bite on. I will undoubtedly find one eventually but I would like to get this project done next week so I just ordered recon DeWalt PEX expander from CPO. It is a tool-only kit and the only DeWalt batteries I have are a couple of big Flexvolts for the chainsaw - but that should be fine.

After looking closer at the route the line is going to have to take once in the garage, I think PEX all the way to the regulator makes the most sense. Will have to protect it from UV though.

 

[giles45shop]

Are you just overthinking this, where is it going to slide to? Put a J clamp on the vertical portion of the conduit on the exterior wall below the LB. Once you attach the interior piping to the elbow in the LB it is not to slde in because it is trying to pull the LB through the wall and it is not going to slide out since it will be trying to push the J clamp off the wall outside. This is assuming you aren't hanging weights off the interior line or using it as an anchor point to winch your vehicle into the garage

 

[mike93lx]

I have been keeping an eye out for a good used propress tool at a price I am willing to bite on. I will undoubtedly find one eventually but I would like to get this project done next week so I just ordered recon DeWalt PEX expander from CPO. It is a tool-only kit and the only DeWalt batteries I have are a couple of big Flexvolts for the chainsaw - but that should be fine.

After looking closer at the route the line is going to have to take once in the garage, I think PEX all the way to the regulator makes the most sense. Will have to protect it from UV though.

I almost hate to admit it, but I bought the vevor press tool and it worked great. Very happy for the $600 spent

 

[finn]

I almost hate to admit it, but I bought the vevor press tool and it worked great. Very happy for the $600 spent

Just use regular PEX and copper crush sleeves. On a project like this there are probably a dozen joints requiring a compression ring, and a manual crimper isn’t hard to use. The manual crimper can even be rented from HD and Menards, as well as any local rental yard.

 

[pembol]

I had almost the same issue with my air line plumbing - I mounted a pex to NPT drop ear elbow 'upside down' with the drop ears away from the wall, then used some ~1.5" standoffs to attach the drop ear to the wall. A ****** screws into the elbow and extends through the wall. This seemed like the most serviceable option as you can unscrew the ****** from the far side of the wall without dealing with the pex.

Edit to add - you need to choose your elbow carefully to make sure the mounting holes are spaced far enough apart to clear the elbow itself. And I used pinch clamps with a $40 crimper with no problems.

 

[mike93lx]

Just use regular PEX and copper crush sleeves. On a project like this there are probably a dozen joints requiring a compression ring, and a manual crimper isn’t hard to use. The manual crimper can even be rented from HD and Menards, as well as any local rental yard.

I am totally fine with a manual pex crimper. I was saying I wouldn't use a manual pex expansion tool.

But propress is pretty fantastic

 

[knucklehead 61]

I bought a dewalt pex expander tool from amazon a couple weeks ago for $356 & used it to install all the pex-a air lines in my shop.
Expensive, but cheaper than hiring a plumber to do the work & i get to keep the tool for future use, & simple to use.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Are you just overthinking this, where is it going to slide to? Put a J clamp on the vertical portion of the conduit on the exterior wall below the LB. Once you attach the interior piping to the elbow in the LB it is not to slde in because it is trying to pull the LB through the wall and it is not going to slide out since it will be trying to push the J clamp off the wall outside. This is assuming you aren't hanging weights off the interior line or using it as an anchor point to winch your vehicle into the garage

Me overthink it? Nooooo, not me! Ok, maybe a little. Ask anybody familiar with my projects and the words "over built", "over engineered", possibly even "over complicated" will be used.

You are correct of course. A 1-1/2" LB is approximately 2-5/8" deep. By the time you add the PEX expansion ring there *might* be 1-1/2 of play.

In my day job I have been trying to adopt the motto "What is the simplest thing that will work?"

The simplest thing in this case is to cut a couple pieces of pink rigid foam (I have a lot on hand) and stick them in the LB.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Just use regular PEX and copper crush sleeves. On a project like this there are probably a dozen joints requiring a compression ring, and a manual crimper isn’t hard to use. The manual crimper can even be rented from HD and Menards, as well as any local rental yard.

I have a manual crimp ring tool and it is ok for what it is. I used it on a farm house remodel project a few years ago and have no big complaints other than tight access sometimes.

But if I have to make mods to our current house (30 year old copper plumbing) I would rather do expansion PEX or propress copper.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I bought a dewalt pex expander tool from amazon a couple weeks ago for $356 & used it to install all the pex-a air lines in my shop.
Expensive, but cheaper than hiring a plumber to do the work & i get to keep the tool for future use, & simple to use.

CPO had reconditioned DeWalt DCE400B (bare tool) in stock this morning for $299. Shows out of stock now though.

 

[finn]

I have a manual crimp ring tool and it is ok for what it is. I used it on a farm house remodel project a few years ago and have no big complaints other than tight access sometimes.

But if I have to make mods to our current house (30 year old copper plumbing) I would rather do expansion PEX or propress copper.

I forgot: this is Garage Journal, where money is no constraint or consideration when buying new tools.

My mistake.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I forgot: this is Garage Journal, where money is no constraint or consideration when buying new tools.

My mistake.

It absolutely is a constraint. That is why I bought a recon DeWalt PEX tool instead of new. I try to buy recon or used when possible. No way am I buying a brand new propress tool.

The decision making process for me usually something like this:

1. Does this tool do a job that I need done?
2. Does this tool do a better job than a cheaper tool or one I already have?
3. Will I need to do this job again or on a regular basis in the next few years?
4. When I no longer need this tool, how much of the purchase price can I recoup?

This process is why I still don't have a Snap-On 30/60 angled wrench set.

 

[finn]

It absolutely is a constraint. That is why I bought a recon DeWalt PEX tool instead of new. I try to buy recon or used when possible. No way am I buying a brand new propress tool.

The decision making process for me usually something like this:

1. Does this tool do a job that I need done?
2. Does this tool do a better job than a cheaper tool or one I already have?
3. Will I need to do this job again or on a regular basis in the next few years?
4. When I no longer need this tool, how much of the purchase price can I recoup?

This process is why I still don't have a Snap-On 30/60 angled wrench set.

I get it, but it still sounds to me that you’re rationalizing a purchase you didn’t need to make, a you seem to already hava a proven tool that will do the job, ie the manual PEX crimper.

I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with that, and I do it all the time. The only difference is I try not to rationalize my decision. I just say I want it even though there’s a more direct way to get the job done.

I bought a new track loader, tractor, and excavator a number of years ago. I could have rented or contracted, but I didn’t. All because I wanted that equipment, not because it was the best option financially.

Good luck with your project. You don’t have to try to justify your purchase to me, or anyone else. But don’t fool yourself, either. By the way, I have many CPO tools, and never had an issue.