Airtool coupler & plug tech

[BrianJ]

I'm in the process of plumbing my garage for airtools and I'm seeking for some advises on the size & type of coupler & plugs.

• 1/4" coupler/plug vs 3/8"
• I/M vs T

Air compressor in question is a small one from Sears.

Air tools used most are: IR2135Ti, Craftsman 3/8 " impact wrench and 1/4" air ratchet by IR.

For the tools listed above, am I better off staying with 1/4" coupler/plug or jump up to 3/8"? Also, in regards to the couplers & plugs, should I go with the T rate as it's designated for automotive? Anything wrong with I/M (industrial)?

TIA,
Brian

 

[kartracer55]

1/4... a good one will flow over 20cfm, which is fine. If you cant to quick connect a blasting cabinet, then go with 3/8... if you want to make your hose quick disconnect from your piping, go witha 3/8 at the wall. The idea is that if you use regular 1/4, you might as well run 1/4 line, which you cant do for most tools.

As for the style, I use industral interchange (I/M). The only reason is because its the easiest to find, id venture to guess the most common, I honestly dont think there is any difference between styles unless one is from HF and the other is a super hightech precision machined 6 ball, telfon coated, flow bench tested coupler, or somethign way over the top

Jim

 

[bmwpower]

Anyone ever use one of these? They look like a great idea...

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=3843

 

[Charles (in GA)]

1/4 works fine, you don't want to fool with anything larger. Use the industrial interchange type male ******* in all of your tools and on one end of hoses, easy to find in 1/4 male and female pipe thread and also in 1/8 pipe thread and also in a ball swivel type, everyone sells them. For the other end, use the universal type couplers, that accept "automotive" type *******, "industrial interchange" type *******, and a third type that is different but similar... made by Lincoln. Then whatever tool you borrow, it will plug into your couplings.

Home Depot has all three couplers, the universal, the industrial, and the automotive type in male and female threads. Of the universal type there are a couple of different brands but the HD ones seem to work the smoothest.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...earchResults.jsp&MID=9876&N=2984+3966&pos=n24

*****

The Husky 1/4 universal coupler female pipe thread is Model HDB20500AV

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...earchResults.jsp&MID=9876&N=2984+3966&pos=n24

*****

The Husky 1/4 universal coupler, male pipe thread is Model HDB20600AV and is improperly illustrated using a female pipe thread coupler.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...earchResults.jsp&MID=9876&N=2984+3966&pos=n24

Charles

 

[l_bilyk]

I use 3/8 since 1/4 isn't much cheaper so why bother?

I also use M style fittings. Mostly. My couplers are lincoln electric positive locking style. Whatever you do, get positive lock coupler.

 

[bmwpower]

I use 3/8 since 1/4 isn't much cheaper so why bother?

I also use M style fittings. Mostly. My couplers are lincoln electric positive locking style. Whatever you do, get positive lock coupler.

What's a positive lock coupler?

 

[l_bilyk]

Maybe i am using the wrong term

I'm talking about the couplers that lock by themselves - you push them onto the fitting and they lock automatically

 

[sberry]

I use H, similar to M's I believe, I like them so I dont have to use different ones for larger tools but on small stuff it probably doesnt make too much difference. They have 6 balls in the connecter and are very durable.

 

[BrianJ]

I'm having difficulty ordering some couplers & plugs for my Craftsman compressor and my airtools.

The manufacturer is CEJN.

What I need to know are:

1. Body Diameter (Inch)
2. Thread Size
3. Thread Type

 

[kartracer55]

Theres a damn good chance it is 1/4npt thread witha 1/4 body... The ones on that site look expensive!!! IF you dont mind the $$$ than by all means go for it, but they are most likely going to be overkill

Jim

 

[sberry]

The fittings are standard, they are not proprietary from Sears.

 

[BrianJ]

The fittings are standard, they are not proprietary from Sears.

That's just it. I don't know what the "standard" is.

In order for me to order the couplings & plugs, I need to know the thread size, thread type, body size.....

 

[gerry]

I use nothing but 1/4" industrial interchange. You can find them anywhere. I also am swapping over to nothing but brass female conectors as the steel ones have been rusting/seizing up. I do have a couple funky crossbreed connectors that were supposed to fit both the automotive and industrail interchange but the shaft size is off just enough so that they are not truly interchangable. I stay away from anything but Aeroquip(?) that I buy from Grainger.com. At work, there were four different systems in place when I took over. You could never count on hooking up a tool anywhere without finding and swapping connections on something. First official job was to rip everything out and replace it all with one system with all the females being in brass. Cheap carbon steel stuff will not take the weather outside

 

[Charles (in GA)]

That's just it. I don't know what the "standard" is.

In order for me to order the couplings & plugs, I need to know the thread size, thread type, body size.....

Thread size is going to vary with what tools or accessories you are installing the male ******* on.

Most air hoses have Male 1/4 pipe thread on the ends. You would need a Female 1/4 pipe thread ****** for one end, and a coupling on the other end also with Female 1/4 pipe thread.

Virtually all air tools have 1/4 pipe Female threads on the inlet, thus you would need 1/4 Male pipe thread ******* for these tools.

Your compressor or wall fittings will vary. Most likely they will be 1/4 female or possibly 1/4 Male pipe thread, and you will need couplings with the appropriate matching pipe thread.

Ocassionally, you will encounter an air tool or accessory with Female 1/8 pipe thread , and there are male ******* with 1/8 male pipe thread to fit these.

Ocassionally you will encounter air tools or accessories with Male 1/4 pipe thread inlets, and you will need the 1/4 female pipe thread ******* llike you would use on the end of the air hose.

There are three common air ******/coupling styles. The most common is the "industrial interchange" type. Used by just about everyone.

The second most common is the "automotive" style.

The third type, is what I refer to as the short lincoln, also known as the Aro 210 interchange. It is very similar to the Industrial fitting, but has a slightly longer ****** and a different shaped groove for the ball locks.

Here is a chart showing the various *******. Different brands of couplings look different, but if they are made to take a certain ******, it doesn't matter which you have, it will accept the ****** if made for it. Some couplers have large exposed sliding collars to operate the ball locks or the bar locks inside, they are easy to grab but also are easy to accidently disconnect while dragging it across the floor or if you bump it. Some have much harder to grab sleeves to unlock them, but less likely to unlock when you don't want them to. Some couplers require that you pull the sleeve back, push the ****** in and release the sleeve to lock it. Others merely require that you push in the ******, the sleeve will slide to the locked position automatically and you are done.

http://www.centralstateshose.com/amfloidchart.php?PHPSESSID=2fe06a1f79cc856316c46f46e9ee7034

Use couplings or ******* with whatever pipe thread that you need to connect to whatever you are screwing it onto.

Here you go, and even better view of the ******* and couplings.

http://strickequipment.com/catalog/aircouplers&plugnipples.htm

The truflate catalog in PDF, lots of good pics.

http://www.plews.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=Tru-Flate_2003_Catalog.pdf&folder=brochure


Charles

 

[l_bilyk]

Those semi-automati couplers stink

Don't buy them

 

[l_bilyk]

I use 3/8 since 1/4 isn't much cheaper so why bother?

I also use M style fittings. Mostly. My couplers are lincoln electric positive locking style. Whatever you do, get positive lock coupler.

^I just realized you're talking about 1/4" thread, not 1/4" line
All my fittings are 1/4"
Thats pretty much the standard

 

[krooser]

Anyone ever use one of these? They look like a great idea...

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=3843

If those are the "high flow" jobs, yes I have. Many body shops use 'em around here for their HVLP spray guns...

Just don't buy the Horrible Freight ones like I did...see my earlier post...

 

[oldgoat]

At first I thought the laser etching was a good thing since the ones I saw had good big numbers for making it easier for my blind eyes to see. But after reading these comments I would rethink my position on it. If they will wear away then they aren't much good. I just got a set of CP impact sockets with etchined sizes on them, but haven't had a chance to use them yet.

 

[kartracer55]

At first I thought the laser etching was a good thing since the ones I saw had good big numbers for making it easier for my blind eyes to see. But after reading these comments I would rethink my position on it. If they will wear away then they aren't much good. I just got a set of CP impact sockets with etchined sizes on them, but haven't had a chance to use them yet.

wrong thread

 

[PoorOwner]

Old thread. But I don't understand the coupling size on this page. I can never find the quantity I want at home depot, so I want to order from McMaster for good..

http://www.mcmaster.com
Page 261, I don't know how to link it.

Do I want to get 1/4" NPT, 1/4" coupling plugs

and then for the disconnect part, get 1/4" NPT Female, 1/4" coupling.

Do I gain much by upping 3/8" coupling (NPT staying 1/4") or is the whole disconnect just much bulkier?

Also someone mentioned using brass quick disconnect, wouldn't the steel plug wear out the brass.. or the O-ring or some gasket inside is what makes the contact mostly?

Also, push to connect vs sleeve style, which do you prefer?

 

[ImportTuner]

Has anybody used the Tomco universal safety coupler? It fits most standard couplers and has zero uncoupling pressure. I been thinking about buying it after seeing it on MotorWeek where Pat Goss was saying how safe this coupler was.

 

[swgray]

Old thread. But I don't understand the coupling size on this page. I can never find the quantity I want at home depot, so I want to order from McMaster for good..

http://www.mcmaster.com
Page 261, I don't know how to link it.

Do I want to get 1/4" NPT, 1/4" coupling plugs

and then for the disconnect part, get 1/4" NPT Female, 1/4" coupling.

Do I gain much by upping 3/8" coupling (NPT staying 1/4") or is the whole disconnect just much bulkier?

Also someone mentioned using brass quick disconnect, wouldn't the steel plug wear out the brass.. or the O-ring or some gasket inside is what makes the contact mostly?

Also, push to connect vs sleeve style, which do you prefer?

6534K46

6534K56

6536K28

The sleeve style shown is better than that push to connect style that is also available from McMaster. They tend to accidently pop apart. The large ring gets caught on seemingly everything. Other styles of "push to connect" are better in my opinion.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

Has anybody used the Tomco universal safety coupler? It fits most standard couplers and has zero uncoupling pressure. I been thinking about buying it after seeing it on MotorWeek where Pat Goss was saying how safe this coupler was.

I picked those up from the toolwarehouse.net years ago. Pretty much all I use. I have one short hose, that goes with my compressor (loaner) and brad/finish nailers, that has a cheapy hf safety coupler on it (couldn't find that style locally to compare, Mcmaster Carr has it though). After seeing a roofer, join two hoses and pull them apart on some bushes (non safety coupler, broken teeth) and a mechanic with radiator fluid on his hands trying to hook up an air tool for someone (shot off the tool and almost hit a new car), I decided zero pressure was the way to go.

I like them, but I tested one on a shop hose. It didn't last long (gravel, oil, sand, it eventually stuck). At home they have lasted. I really need to try the other version (better one similar to HF varity).

Lastly, if you join hoses, use a female to female coupler, NOT a quick release, MUCH safer.

 

[kidatari]

That looks like a 'Prevost' coupler. I've used one of those before and they worked great.

Prevost Home
Coupler Page

Anyone ever use one of these? They look like a great idea...

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=3843

 

[PoorOwner]

I am ordering the TOMCO coupler and give it a try, don't think I can go wrong with a pack of 5 for $16. I ended up getting automotive style plugs as that was all that I have been using, for a 1/4" coupling size, an automotive style plug has a 3/8" opening which is an improvement over the typical 5/16" opening over other styles. It makes a difference IMO.

I also picked up a dynabrade swivel, I didn't order too many because I read on there they cut down flow / torque, so it's going to be on my air ratchet only, and the dynabrade swivel rated at 33 cfm which is a peace of mind.

 

[ImportTuner]

I am ordering the TOMCO coupler and give it a try, don't think I can go wrong with a pack of 5 for $16. I ended up getting automotive style plugs as that was all that I have been using, for a 1/4" coupling size, an automotive style plug has a 3/8" opening which is an improvement over the typical 5/16" opening over other styles. It makes a difference IMO.

I also picked up a dynabrade swivel, I didn't order too many because I read on there they cut down flow / torque, so it's going to be on my air ratchet only, and the dynabrade swivel rated at 33 cfm which is a peace of mind.

Where did you find the Tomco coupler for $16 ...?? I just bought two Milton safety couplers off eBay ..

 

[PoorOwner]

Here is the store selling it for $16, however toolwarehouse matched it for me (theirs is priced incorrectly at the moment)

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/manufacturers-tomco-air-coupler.html

I guess no more fun ejecting the air ratchet across the floor, but that would not be a good idea after I buy my aircat ratchet anyhow :O

 

[ImportTuner]

Just received the Tomco couplers; they are great... with the pressure released, disconnect and connect is sooooo easy, doing it with one hand is a piece of cake. Still waiting for the zero pressure Milton's to come in ...

 

[bmwpower]

Just received the Tomco couplers; they are great... with the pressure released, disconnect and connect is sooooo easy, doing it with one hand is a piece of cake. Still waiting for the zero pressure Milton's to come in ...

Are the black and yellow parts rubber?

 

[ImportTuner]

Are the black and yellow parts rubber?

The black and yellow parts are anodized aluminum... hard to tell in the picture but the quality is pretty good.

 

[ImportTuner]

Well, the Milton Industries S99705 "M" Style Female Push Button Safety Coupler's came in; not bad looking, has a plastic outside body while the Tomco's are anodized aluminum and push button release instead of sliding the body. On releasing the tool, the first push removes the air pressure and the second push releases the tool. Packaging says the product is made in Taiwan. The body is black even though the ad says grey ... Appears to be well made.

 

[bmwpower]

Well, the Milton Industries S99705 "M" Style Female Push Button Safety Coupler's came in; not bad looking, has a plastic outside body while the Tomco's are anodized aluminum and push button release instead of sliding the body. On releasing the tool, the first push removes the air pressure and the second push releases the tool. Packaging says the product is made in Taiwan. The body is black even though the ad says grey ... Appears to be well made.

Where'd you get them?

 

[ImportTuner]

Where'd you get them?

I got them from www.sjdiscounttools.com .. also picked up a set of OTC7661 brake caliper hangers ..

 

[BrianJ]

Well, the Milton Industries S99705 "M" Style Female Push Button Safety Coupler's came in; not bad looking, has a plastic outside body while the Tomco's are anodized aluminum and push button release instead of sliding the body. On releasing the tool, the first push removes the air pressure and the second push releases the tool. Packaging says the product is made in Taiwan. The body is black even though the ad says grey ... Appears to be well made.

Have you had a chance to use both? Which one do you like more? Can you list Pros & Cons of each one?

Regards,
Brian

 

[ImportTuner]

Have you had a chance to use both? Which one do you like more? Can you list Pros & Cons of each one?

Regards,
Brian

I'm currently using both the Milton and the Tomco coupler; the Milton (made in China) appears to be well made and has a real nice feel. You press the button and the pressure is release, press the button the second time and the coupler disengages. The Tomco is really light feeling (made of aluminium) and enables/releases pressure by moving the yellow ring. Both couplers are really great with the Tomco (universal coupler) being able to accept various other brands which the Milton only uses the type M.

 

[Torque Wrench]

Anyone ever use one of these? They look like a great idea...

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=3843

It looks like Prevost, but it is not!! This is a Tiawan copy that Milton is bringing in from offshore. Stay away from it! The quality is poor I tested one and it lasted about a month. You can tell it is a copy because of the serrated line on top, Prevost does not have this. Look at Prevost websit ate www.prevostusa.com they are usually blue or black bodies. The blue button designates industrial interchage or M style.

 

[Torque Wrench]

Well, the Milton Industries S99705 "M" Style Female Push Button Safety Coupler's came in; not bad looking, has a plastic outside body while the Tomco's are anodized aluminum and push button release instead of sliding the body. On releasing the tool, the first push removes the air pressure and the second push releases the tool. Packaging says the product is made in Taiwan. The body is black even though the ad says grey ... Appears to be well made.

Stay away from this copy, I had one and it lasted a month. If you want a composite coupler go to www.prevostusa.com.

 

[Theo]

I'm having difficulty ordering some couplers & plugs for my Craftsman compressor and my airtools.

The manufacturer is CEJN.

What I need to know are:

1. Body Diameter (Inch)
2. Thread Size
3. Thread Type

Those CEJN fitting are fantastic quality and design. I bought some Topring stuff last time I needed couplers and they're great. I'm quite sure the Topring will never fail me, but the CEJN stuff is so nice it makes you kinda look forward to connecting/disconnecting your tools, if that makes any sense.