madoc1
Well-known member
duckworks, been looking at your stuff for a good while. you should add your shop here. now back to the drift build!
jim
jim
Aluminum drift boat build.
- Thread starter koditten
- Start date
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Welcome to GJ ! What kind of boats have you built ?
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Were you using a non-ferrous blade ?
Ill trim off the excess with the plasma cutter and hit it with the flap wheel. The joint gets a trim of angle aluminum anyways, so the grinding job won't need to be pristine.[/QUOTE]
With the proper grinding disc you won't have trim any more.
steel 35
Well-known member
Boat is looking great, I love to fish from the drift boats, and it look like it will be a good ride cant wait to see the detail inside, that's where the luxury is.
For the cutting I have helped cut Long pieces on a table saw works great raise the blade into the danger zone!
For the cutting I have helped cut Long pieces on a table saw works great raise the blade into the danger zone!
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
If you are within an inch of the finish, a good aluminum grinding disc will take that down in no time without using a plasma cutter.
What aluminum alloy did you use ? 5052 is very common for boats. What thickness ?
Great minds think alike, I said the same thing.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
What river do you fish on ?
fergus
Well-known member
You should name her "Beer Money"
The bottom after plasma cutting of excess material. Time to get happy with the grinder.
Anyone have a favorite grinding disc for aluminum? I need something that can "hog off" a large amount of material in a hurry. It doesn't need to look good, this gets covered with some angle stock trim.
Ironhorse74
MEMBER EMERITUS
I am wondering what type of plate you are using. I saw in a reply it was .100 is that trailer plate? Subscribed.
ovrrdrive
Well-known member
Looks like a fun project.. Those are respectable welds with a spoolgun from what I've seen. Looking good.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/media/liveo
Started bending the 3/4 x 1 1/2" tubing for the outer gunnel. Stiff stuff. Once you start working the tubing along the shape of the boat, it clamps real easy. Once its mounted, you can get by with just using a clamp on each end.
Started bending the 3/4 x 1 1/2" tubing for the outer gunnel. Stiff stuff. Once you start working the tubing along the shape of the boat, it clamps real easy. Once its mounted, you can get by with just using a clamp on each end.
Just adding the outer gunnel really sets the project off.
I can now lift and turn the boat upside down with out worrying about caving in the sides.
I raised it up in prep to install the bottom angle trim. Most likely going to be a few days before I can get at that. Still lots of grinding and inspecting. found several voids that will have to be dealt with if I want the boat to float.
Another shot of the boat showing the installed gunnel...mostly. Hard to see the aluminum on aluminum.
I have a pair of C-clamps grabbing the gunnel with chain falls hooks to the clamps. I was guessing where exact center would be. I missed it by 1 inch. The boat won't quite balance level, but will settle out to what you see in the pic.
madoc1
Well-known member
nice work. i like your hoist set up too.
jim
jim
wendlwacker
Well-known member
This is sweet! I've been wanting to build a layout boat from aluminum but I need to practice with the welder first!
Great thread, and the boat is looking very nice! I used to live in Montana and was too poor (in the military) to afford a drift boat, or pay someone to row me around 
Now that I could afford one, I'm nowhere near a decent trout river
Now that I could afford one, I'm nowhere near a decent trout river Believe me, you build one of these boats, you will get some practice.
I hadn't picked up my spool gun in 15 years. This section of the site was what helped me convince myself to break it out and start welding up some aluminum. All these guys talking about spool guns made me play around with mine.
Everyone will have a learning curve to get thru before they can weld aluminum with good results. Myself included.
marinusdees
Well-known member
I grew up in southwestern Michigan. Spent 7 years at the University of Michigan. I have lived in Washington since 1965 and bought one of the first welded aluminum drift boats built. Drove to Grants Pass to get it from Glen Wooldridge who earned his spurs on the Rogue River. It was a little more dishpanny (flared) than current designs.. I rowed a lot of rivers in that boat. I am trying to figure out where a guy who lives in Midland is going to find a river to float. Maybe the Saginaw or St. Joseph???
That boat of mine was built entirely of .080" Al. I asked Glen about the strength of the bottom and he told me not to worry. After I floated a few Olympic Peninsula streams, I had a sheetmetal worker friend roll another sheet on the bottom. Made the boat heavier, but very stable. You will find aluminum is sticky, and grabby on rocks. There are slippery coatings out there, among them Glovit, but it is nasty to work with. I used a sheet of Formica glued to the sole. Doesn't have to go end to end. I would tell you that seat placement is critical. Rowing an ill-fitting boat all day is exhausting. I suspect once you run this boat a few miles you will be ready to build another, just to "get it right". So far, an impressive effort. Keep posting.
Glen later used .100" for the bottom only. Last I knew, that was still the norm. .080 except for the bottom. I may be out of date, sold that boat about 10 years ago. Back surgery and old age caught up with me.
That boat of mine was built entirely of .080" Al. I asked Glen about the strength of the bottom and he told me not to worry. After I floated a few Olympic Peninsula streams, I had a sheetmetal worker friend roll another sheet on the bottom. Made the boat heavier, but very stable. You will find aluminum is sticky, and grabby on rocks. There are slippery coatings out there, among them Glovit, but it is nasty to work with. I used a sheet of Formica glued to the sole. Doesn't have to go end to end. I would tell you that seat placement is critical. Rowing an ill-fitting boat all day is exhausting. I suspect once you run this boat a few miles you will be ready to build another, just to "get it right". So far, an impressive effort. Keep posting.
Glen later used .100" for the bottom only. Last I knew, that was still the norm. .080 except for the bottom. I may be out of date, sold that boat about 10 years ago. Back surgery and old age caught up with me.
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Didn't see the comment about spending time on west Michigan rivers? I spend most of my time fishing the Big Manistee, with a small amount of time on the Manistee and the Betsie.
I'm doing this mostly because I like the looks of them. I've never even rowed one of these boats.
I think building something just because a person wants to, is the best reason of all.
I'm doing this mostly because I like the looks of them. I've never even rowed one of these boats.
I think building something just because a person wants to, is the best reason of all.
madoc1
Well-known member
scrumpy
Well-known member
You noticed a few voids that would leak. Are you going to test for leaks prior to capping the lower weld using water on the inside to see if it leaks out and where? Or is there a sealer being applied after?
I planned on water testing before attaching the angle cap. Garden hose, permanent marker and 6 pack. Sounds like a good way to spend an evening in the shop.
I do plan on running a bead along the inside for cosmetic reasons. I'm not looking forward to that welding. Laying in the bottom of a boat welding all bent over. It's gotta be done. My OCD won't allow me to leave it even if the boat is water tight.
I do plan on running a bead along the inside for cosmetic reasons. I'm not looking forward to that welding. Laying in the bottom of a boat welding all bent over. It's gotta be done. My OCD won't allow me to leave it even if the boat is water tight.
marinusdees
Well-known member
I don't believe there is a river in Michigan that requires the whitewater capability of a drift boat. I think when you get it done and tested you need to trailer it to Washington or Oregon and see where these boats sprung from. Then take it down a river. Not a highly technical one to start with. I am sounding like a snob, but owning a drift boat does not make you a whitewater expert. I am not an expert, but consider myself a safe beginner. I have seen my share of whitewater . The scariest is the stuff you've never seen before. When you find out if you can read water. That's the fun part of owning a drift boat. JMO
marinusdees
Well-known member
I did not see your comment. I totally agree with your reason to build a drift boat. Every drift boat has a "soul". Each handles and responds differently to your rowing. Also, every operator gets a different response from his boat. Sometimes a boat that responds well to one operator causes frustration for someone else. Ask me how I know this. Seems familiarity breeds confidence.
Or something like that.
I got the strong back forms removed. I was pleasantly surprised that no major deforming occurred.
There was a small twist to the hull, but using a winch strap from one side to the other pulled it straight.
Its looking more and more like a drift boat. Hopefully I can get some more welding done in the next couple of days.
Presently I've used 3, 1 pound spools of wire. I was estimating 8-10. We shall see.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Looking great. Nice that it kept it's shape. If your going to grind at all, try this stuff, it is truly amazing if you can get it in your area. I've been hacking at Aluminum for 30 years and this just blew me away when I first used it. Food grade, just wipe and weld. Lube for drilling, cutting, milling, grinding, holesaw whatever.
marinusdees
Well-known member
Lookin' good. I'd be interested in knowing how much it weighs when you're all done.
Thanks.
Thanks.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
It has very pleasing lines.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Same here, but it was answered.
Guys restoring old Starcraft aluminum boat swear by that stuff ! Fix all your leaky rivets (go one size up) and cracks. Maybe a bit of 5200 for insurance around repairs and then do the entire inside up to the waterline with Gluvit. The crazy thing is, you can pick up a 50+ year old 16-20' for a couple of grand OR LESS. Sure the floor is rotten, the seats are shot and there are probably some loose rivets or cracked ribs, but if you have the time all of this is very fixable and for not a lot of money ! (1968 Starcraft - $500 needs an engine and a lot of TLC)
What kills me is the guys with the aluminum shallow river jet boats. They have a couple of steel rods attached to the bottom of the hull (not sure how) and they go sliding over stumps, rocks, tree and gravel bars at high speed. I'll bet they are using .120 on the bottoms or more.
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