No doubt it could cut the square tubing, but even the 2.5 aluminum pieces? Even so, the thing would be too loud anyway, I'm sure. Let me know..
ALUMINUM: how to cut thick stuff...
- Thread starter Bootybug
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No doubt it could cut the square tubing, but even the 2.5 aluminum pieces? Even so, the thing would be too loud anyway, I'm sure. Let me know..
danski0224
Well-known member
Can't beat one of these for $280: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...ower-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1293217878&sr=1-2
I would also look for "CPO (insert brand name)" and buy refurbished.
Lot cheaper and faster than a bandsaw or 2.
Edit: Loud? Heck yeah. Wear earplugs. Lots better than a hand guided bandsaw cut, both in speed and quality. Set up a stop, pull the trigger, repeat.
I would also look for "CPO (insert brand name)" and buy refurbished.
Lot cheaper and faster than a bandsaw or 2.
Edit: Loud? Heck yeah. Wear earplugs. Lots better than a hand guided bandsaw cut, both in speed and quality. Set up a stop, pull the trigger, repeat.
Sounds like a horizontal would be just about perfect for what you intend to do with it.
You will not likely believe this, but the best cut will be with a chain saw for heavy thick aluminum. There is a special blade for this and they wear fairly quickly. I worked for one of the largest aluminum companies for 30 years. Extrusions and billet would be cut with very large round blade saws @ 200+ HP and 4' dia blade. But when we were building plants with buss made from cast aluminum (8" thick X 3' high) we used chain saws. For those little bitty items you are cutting [ ;-)] go with the band saws, preferable horizontal. You are likely to get hurt with a hand held skill type saw. They will bind and kick awful. Slow it down and use lots of coolant and ask for the special tooth blade for aluminum. A good supplier will know which one. And good luck. Aluminum isn't just "aluminum" as there are many alloys and they will work differently. 7*** series will be difficult.
It keeps me where I am today, though; loud, messy and fumes. I do like the saw a lot. But it really just becomes a chop saw, doesn't it.
That's some crazy sht. Crazy by one man's standard is a workable solution to another! If I'm ever stuck in an elevator with nothing but a pen and a knife, I want you with me.
Any suggestions on manufacturers, keeping in mind size and price?
danski0224
Well-known member
There are no fumes. Put on a non-ferrous carbide tipped blade, and it will cut like a hot knife through butter. No different than wood.
Loud? Yes
Messy? Unless you buy a dedicated metal cold cut saw with chip collection... yes. Hook a vacuum up to the dust port and get most of it.
But, based on the descriptions of what you are cutting, even if it is 100's of pieces, a metal cutting saw can't be beat. It will be faster and more accurate than any bandsaw in a similar price range. You are only going to be able to buy Harbor Freight stuff for under $1k. Used USA machinery will need work at that price point.
It is NOT the same as an abrasive cut off saw.
Edit:
I used one of these on a job for 6 months: http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=309
Couldn't tell you how many cuts were made in Unistrut and threaded rod. Same blade that the tool came with. The saw was used daily.
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dcovey
Well-known member
metal1313
Well-known member
the metal cutting saws are alot more powerful than a regular miter saw, and spin much slower..i want one but the need has not arised that i have to have one..yet
danski0224
Well-known member
That Makita is probably not much different from a fixed wood cutting miter saw, except for chip collection and the vise. Maybe motor RPM, too.
A sliding compound miter saw would give more versatility. If you need to make 90* cuts on stock that fits within the capacity of a non-slider, then that will be a less expensive route.
Yes, it will cut thick aluminum just fine with the proper blade. The blade will dictate the rate of cut- don't force it.
Some abrasive chop saws spin at a faster RPM than a wood miter saw. Watch the blade operating range when you buy one.
Zeke
Well-known member
Another note: AL blades for circular saws should have a negative hook (or rake) angle.
Yeah, in reading there is a significant difference between miter saw machines and multi-purpose cut saws (look very similar, though).
It appears the most significant drawback of these saws is the blade cost. That said, lubrication can help extend that. It is small so that is a huge plus. It is loud though so I'll have to deall with that, I suppose.
Here's one...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302QS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It appears the most significant drawback of these saws is the blade cost. That said, lubrication can help extend that. It is small so that is a huge plus. It is loud though so I'll have to deall with that, I suppose.
Here's one...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302QS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
gmwelder86
Well-known member
most cold saws will cut what ever you put into them. We have used a porta cable cold chop saw to cut 4x4x3/4 square tubing at work for pipe supports just take you time and get a good carbide blade.
Daniel Dudley
Well-known member
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- Sep 4, 2009
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Soap the teeth. But I would use the circular saw. Cuts very smooth.
some zilch
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2008
- Messages
- 318
not sure why the total disregard for the HF 4x6 bandsaw? mine has cut thousands of pieces of alum/steel/cast etc, and is probably the best $200 i ever spent. its quiet, shuts itself off when its done, and does not throw **** all over the shop. i havent touched my chop saw since getting my hf bandsaw
7echo
Well-known member
We have a couple of FMB saws, they are pretty sweet for all sorts of fab work, but are going to be much more than the Grizzly branded of the same style...
http://www.patmooneysaws.com/fmb/manualsemi.html
http://www.patmooneysaws.com/fmb/manualsemi.html
7echo
Well-known member
One thing that will help with the little Jet/Grizzly/HF, etc horizontal saws is doing the research and getting quality blades. A good blade and coolant pump will help make the job much better.
I've read where they require a lot of adjusting to get them to work properly. Having one, do you believe it can cut 2.5 inch solid aluminum?
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Adjustment, cleaning, lubrication, and even modification are usually required with HF equipment. You buy the basic machine and everything else is up to the user. Kind of like kit cars...
I think this one can do the job...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T9KT/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T9KT/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Attachments
Orders of magnitude better than that Chinese thing:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kalamazoo-610-D...998?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c1dfc8b6
I still use my Grandfather's 610D which he bought new in the early 50's.
I'd buy that Kalamazoo at the advertised price long before I'd buy the significantly more expensive Jet.
The kalamazoo isn't a big saw at all, it's about 18" wide and 48" long. Weight is in the 300lb range if I were to guess.
My previous employer had an old (green) 4x6 Jet that was used for nearly 20 years in a 5 man tool & die shop to cut anything that would fit in it, including tool steel for injection molds. A few years before I started there in '97, it was replaced by a larger Kalamazoo. After that much use, the little Jet was relagated to cutting smaller pieces, as it was simply worn out, wouldn't cut straight and the blade would jump off often. The Kalamazoo was overall a pretty decent saw, and in my 10 years there, the shop more than doubled in volume of work, and it worked just as well as the day I started. While the Jet you pointed out may serve you well as a hobbyist, I don't think you would regret stepping up to a good used American made saw for similar, or less money. I've been kicking myself in the rear for almost 10 years for not picking up a decent Carolina Bandsaw for under $300 when I had the chance.
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Spareparts
Well-known member
Check ENCO.com they have a good selection of the Enco brand plus other brands, they also have free shipping on some products. If I was to get a new saw it would have at least a 3/4" blade.
saabman
Well-known member
Not to start a flame war, but Taiwan produces products that are a cut above the stuff from the Chinese mainland. Wilton, Jet, and Powermantic all come from the same place (WMH tool group) Wilton and Powermatic are regarded a step up from JET. But I dare say JET is a step up on the Chinese stuff from HF or Enco. Turn Pro from Enco is a Taiwan brand and a step up from there standard line.
Chris
Chris
I'm talking to them--shipping is high, unless I can use my shipper.
3/4 inch does give you more cutting options--just hard to find reasonably.
I need a tight tolerance of less than 1/16th of an inch--do you think I can get this thing in line with some work, if necessary?
3/4 inch does give you more cutting options--just hard to find reasonably.
I need a tight tolerance of less than 1/16th of an inch--do you think I can get this thing in line with some work, if necessary?
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I can't believe you said that.
Having rebuilt that nice Do-All of yours.
This is more what I expected.
Vertical bandsaw,coolant,course tooth blade, at a high rate of speed.
I can't believe you said that.
Having rebuilt that nice Do-All of yours.
This is more what I expected.
Vertical bandsaw,coolant,course tooth blade, at a high rate of speed.
I save the bandsaw for contouring.
For breaking down sheets of aluminum there's nothing yet invented as fast or handy as a Skilsaw with a combo or non-ferrous blade and a can of WD-40!
Unless, of course, you have a shear big enough.
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I think that you are not understanding what A Pmech original suggestion was, and yes, it is the cheapest and arguably the best. A regular wood cutting Skilsaw (also known as a circular saw) will cut aluminum just fine. Just follow his suggestions and buy a cheap one and your done. No need for those large saws for that cut.
