Anchoring air compressor to concrete floor

[signcrafter]

Got my compressor into place and starting to put the pipe puzzle together. Compressor is a 3HP 30 gallon horizontal tank and weighs 325 pounds. I know it does vibrate a little when it's running but don't think too much. I have a 3/4" hydraulic hose that goes from my compressor to the piping on the wall so it's not a rigid connection and to give it some flexibility.

The compressor has "feet" that have a hole in each corner of the compressor. I'm thinking I want to put some kind of rubber like material under each foot and then anchor it to the concrete. I've never had a garage big enough to have a "permanent" compressor in my garage. Always just threw it wherever it would fit and used an air hose from it instead of piping.

First, is this a good idea? I can't really see any downside to doing it even if there isn't a ton of benefits unless I'm missing something?

Second, what is a good "rubber" type pad to put between the compressor and the concrete? I know they make special pads for this application but think they are pretty expensive. I've also read about people using hockey pucks. I found these googling last night that seem like they might work pretty good, https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...EtCbNPMI1NORq-pFxtvTP_zKpvsP70FcaAt44EALw_wcB. Anyone have these or something similar? They seem like they would accomplish what I'm wanting and they are cheap enough.

Last, what is the best anchor to use here? I'm not sure how thick the concrete is but it's a garage so guessing 3-4" thick most likely. I'm thinking some 3/8" drop in anchors would be good. Will allow me to unbolt it and slide it out of the way if ever needed. Only thing I'm worried about is drop in anchors don't really go in that deep. Just worried about if the top inch of concrete isn't strong for whatever reason and/or if the compressor vibrates too much and chips out the concrete where the anchors are. I don't think the compressor vibrates too much but I've never had one bolted down like this before.

Any other advice on bolting a compressor down?

 

[slow]

In my shop at work, we mounted the air compressor with drop in red head anchors, 3/8" thread. I used a hockey puck under the compressor at each foot with a hole drilled in it. and the top of the compressor feet, I used a bushing from a swaybar end link then the washer. I used a bolt to go down into the anchor, so i have a nut and lock washer , (ordered for a 1992 bonneville, since I knew they used 3/8" end links)

This keeps the concrete isolated from the metal of the compressor tank. It has been installed for 5 years, no issues with the concrete and anchors.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Hockey pucks work great. Get the ones made in the Czech Republic, not the Chinese ones. Those Northern pads should work great too.

 

[finn]

I used hockey pucks the kids left behind when they left for college for both my 80 gallon Champion and IR compressors. Just drill a hole and countersink for the bolt head and a washer.

Mine were free, but new ones are inexpensive. You can probably even find some to repurpose from Play It Again or similar stores that deal in used sports equipment.

They stay put.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Crafter, check out this link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Anti-Vib...Heavy-Duty-Rubber-USA/222488498430?epid=22006

As far as anchor bolts, most compressor manufacturers recommend NOT to cinch down the receiver tight, but rather run the nuts down until they contact the feet, then back them off a half turn or so. If the mounting surface points are not even with each other and the receiver is fastened down tightly, it will put it in a bind which could cause undue stress and premature fatigue failure.
I have always had good luck using wedge bolt https://www.itwredhead.com/products/expansion-anchors/trubolt style anchors. I usually go with 1/2" or 5/8" depending on the size of compressor I'm mounting. I prefer to drill completely through the slab which, in the event that you want to remove the compressor, you can then drive the anchor below the slab surface and patch the holes, which is easier than cutting the anchors flush with a reciprocating saw.
I use nylock nuts on the anchors due to the fact that I back them off the receiver feet and don't want them moving due to vibration. It's always a good idea to check level across your mounting points and shim if necessary. I shear aluminum shims, ranging from .065" to .125"with the same dimensions as the anti-vibration pads, punch a hole for the anchor bolt and sit the on TOP of the anti-vibration pad.

Some folks just leave their compressors mounted on the shipping pallet they came with...to each his own.

 

[signcrafter]

Crafter, check out this link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Anti-Vib...Heavy-Duty-Rubber-USA/222488498430?epid=22006

As far as anchor bolts, most compressor manufacturers recommend NOT to cinch down the receiver tight, but rather run the nuts down until they contact the feet, then back them off a half turn or so. If the mounting surface points are not even with each other and the receiver is fastened down tightly, it will put it in a bind which could cause undue stress and premature fatigue failure.
I have always had good luck using wedge bolt https://www.itwredhead.com/products/expansion-anchors/trubolt style anchors. I usually go with 1/2" or 5/8" depending on the size of compressor I'm mounting. I prefer to drill completely through the slab which, in the event that you want to remove the compressor, you can then drive the anchor below the slab surface and patch the holes, which is easier than cutting the anchors flush with a reciprocating saw.
I use nylock nuts on the anchors due to the fact that I back them off the receiver feet and don't want them moving due to vibration. It's always a good idea to check level across your mounting points and shim if necessary. I shear aluminum shims, ranging from .065" to .125"with the same dimensions as the anti-vibration pads, punch a hole for the anchor bolt and sit the on TOP of the anti-vibration pad.

Some folks just leave their compressors mounted on the shipping pallet they came with...to each his own.

Thanks for the links. Is the solid rubber pads in your ebay link any better then the rubber/cork pads I linked to at northern? They are about the same price so could go with which ever may be better.

The reason I wanted to do drop in anchors, like these https://www.google.com/search?q=3/8.....69i57j0l5.5004j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8, is so if I ever need to slide the compressor out away from the wall I can without having to lift the compressor over bolts sticking out of the floor. If I use drop ins I can simply take the bolts out and then slide compressor out and then put back in place and bolt down again.

 

[readhead]

I usually drill a hole and hammer in a piece of 1/2" rebar. It keeps the tank from walking around but doesn't tie it down tight. I had a friend that bolted his down and one of the welds at the foot to the tank cracked. Last thing I need is a tank repair.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Both pads styles will suffice, not sure how the cork will hold up over the years.

I understand your 'drop-in' reasoning and they should be just fine, although I would suggest perhaps a thick rubber cushioning washer or a valve spring on top of the mounting feet to allow you to cinch the bolt without placing too much pressure on the feet OR use a little loc-tite on the bolts.

 

[IBenDcars]

Some folks just leave their compressors mounted on the shipping pallet they came with...to each his own.

This is what I've been doing for 8 years or so. Seems to still be working

 

[59 wagon man]

put your compressor outside the garage in a small shed or something. you will thank me after you realize you can still have a normal conversation while the compressor pounds away. my hf upright 60 gal has been that way for about 10 yrs now and it made a huge difference putting it outside the garage and it has never been bolted down

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I posted about this a while back. My 30 gallon oiless vibrates a LOT. It is not bolted down, it sits on these and has never moved:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HQ2AF2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
'
Tommy

 

[signcrafter]

In my shop at work, we mounted the air compressor with drop in red head anchors, 3/8" thread. I used a hockey puck under the compressor at each foot with a hole drilled in it. and the top of the compressor feet, I used a bushing from a swaybar end link then the washer. I used a bolt to go down into the anchor, so i have a nut and lock washer , (ordered for a 1992 bonneville, since I knew they used 3/8" end links)

This keeps the concrete isolated from the metal of the compressor tank. It has been installed for 5 years, no issues with the concrete and anchors.

Not sure I understand where exactly are the bushings?

I posted about this a while back. My 30 gallon oiless vibrates a LOT. It is not bolted down, it sits on these and has never moved:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HQ2AF2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
'
Tommy

I may just try that first and see how it does. I've just seen in industrial all the compressors are bolted down so figured there was some benefit from doing that.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

In commercail and industrial applications I would have it secured. For my garage, it was just a Craftsman oiless portable. I took the wheels and brackets off and sat it on the pads.

Tommy

 

[CJseven]

I have a 60 gallon vertical compressor, I built a frame out of treated 2x4s, then bolted the compressor to it. Easy to clean under and move to another location if you ever need to. Never had it move on it’s own.

 

[cj7jeep81]

This is what I've been doing for 8 years or so. Seems to still be working

Same here. I put most all of my machines on pallets (custom made to fit the equipment), so that I can easily move anything by myself with a pallet jack.

 

[slow]

Like this.

https://ibb.co/4pBYnjg

 

[Lucky13driver]

I built a small pallet to go under my 60 gal Ingersol Rand. At my last home I bolted it to the ground using some rubber bed mat cut and stacked about an inch high. Both work just fine. The pallet and compressor is in a corner and not in a position where it could not be knock over.

 

[signcrafter]

Same here. I put most all of my machines on pallets (custom made to fit the equipment), so that I can easily move anything by myself with a pallet jack.

That might be a good option I didn't really think about. I didn't really want it on a wood platform so wasn't really considering that. But now that you say pallet I do have a pallet jack that would make pulling it away from the wall super easy whenever I may need to. I'm going to have to think about doing this some more.

Like this.

https://ibb.co/4pBYnjg

Thank you for the picture. It all makes sense now.

 

[LX-Markham]

I mounted mine on these...

 

[exranger06]

I put some rubber isolation pads under the feet and used red head anchors to bolt it down. I left the bolts a little loose for vibration. I also purposely placed the compressor far enough away from the walls so I can access all sides of it without moving it for service.

 

[johnnyradiant]

I used mid 70's Volvo 240 series engine mounts on mine years ago 'cause I was a Volvo mech at the time. Softer than hockey pucks. Drilled holes in the slab and let the stud of the mount just sit in the hole. There is enough weight to hold the studs in the hole. The compressor side of the mount were bolted up to the feet of the tank. The boss just pulled them off the shelf and handed them to me so the price and not needing to drill the pucks made them a great deal.

 

[red94chev]

My 80 gallon upright has been sitting on those cork pads for about 10 years without bolts or anything. Hasn't moved an inch.

 

[Gonzo1717]

I used some old leaf spring insulators off a 69 camaro, they work great and make for a much quieter compressor!

 

[nadogail]

My Devilbiss (sp?) 20 gallon oil les sits in it's rubber tires and the factory bumpers in a corner of the workshop. Ready to be rolled out when needed.

Even during our seismic events it just sits like a cast iron doorstop.

 

[danielbuck]

I use those cork/rubber sandwich pads on my 60 gallon, they work very well. mine isn't anchored, just sitting there.

 

[skon1212]

I posted about this a while back. My 30 gallon oiless vibrates a LOT. It is not bolted down, it sits on these and has never moved:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HQ2AF2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
'
Tommy

I second the use of these. I also took a sharpie and marked a corner (L) with a sharpie to see if it moves and in 2 years it has not moved at all. It just rests on them, no bolts.

 

[Augus7us]

Some folks just leave their compressors mounted on the shipping pallet they came with...to each his own.

I'm going this route. My compressor weighs 700lbs and I built a room for it so I can't get my forklift in there. Its staying on the pallet and getting moved around with a pallet jack.

 

[diesel_dan]

pieces of 1" Horse Stall Mat. No Bolts. Doesn't move -- doesn't vibrate much anyway (Saylor-Beall 705 pump @ 540 rpm). In the mid 600 lb range. Not yet in its permanent spot, but will set it the same when it goes there.

Place I bought it at only had some sort of thin fiber pads under the feet, no bolts there either and it was hard plumbed to the wall!

 

[Steve_P]

McMaster has a full line of isolation mounts for this purpose. They're rubber, much softer than a hockey puck. Get ones with a hole drilled and use an anchor to fasten to the floor. I double nutted my anchors so the washer will just spin

 

[1jjpop]

I bolted mine down and double nutted bolt. Trying to make it harder to steal .my shop is on a empty lot . No body close to shop.

 

[ExxWhy]

I also used the horse stall mat, got mine at tractor supply. I did bolt it to the floor with anchors.

 

[skelrad]

My garage has a drainage slope to the concrete - about 1/2 inch per 2 feet. Should I go through the effort to level the compressor out, or just let it sit at a slight angle? It's not going anywhere either way (80 gallon).

 

[oldmachinenut]

This is under my 80 gallon Quincy I built, around 750 pounds. 1/4” plate with a sheet of Tractor Supply horse stall mat on the bottom. 1/2” bolts go up through the feet with the already mentioned sway-bar end link bushings, springs washers and nylocks.

 

[Jlarson]

I've been using hockey pucks under the feet and then pieces of conveyor belt or mud flap and a large fender washer and nylock nuts when we install the little 80-120 gallon tank mount jobbers.

 

[nadogail]

My 20 gallon vertical tank Devilbiss rests on the factory installed rubber feet. The compressser doesn't realize that the garage floor is slopped to drain out the door.

 

[niget2002]

This is an old thread, so I hope the op has his compressor mounted by now, but I bought these off of Amazon.

I have the pads mounted to the compressor, but I don't have the compressor mounted to the floor.



Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[CraigStu]

Min is a small horizontal tank so relatively low center of gravity. I have some rubber that was in a house we bought. It's pretty firm, 1/2" thick and maybe 16x16. Compressor just sits on 3 layers of these rubber pads and doesn't go anywhere. No bolts. Same compressor but in another house w/ less rubber padding, the compressor liked to walk slowly. I restrained it w/ rubber bungees.

 

[gungatim]

LGR

 

[Wes Tex]

Just cut up a horse stall mat from tractor supply. One mat will give you a lifetime supply. Cheap and will last forever.

 

[tstaude]

Yep, hockey pucks work great on my 60 gallon