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Angle grinder recommendations

branimal

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I burned up two Harbor freight 6amp 4 1/2” angle grinders in the last 20 months. I’ve been cutting some 2” cast iron pipe to remodel 2 bathrooms. I also use it to cut random things here and there but I haven’t been beating on the grinder by any means.

At this point I want to move to a better brand. I need to cut a 4” single hub cast iron pipe with a metal cut off wheel.

Anyone got recommendations? I see the dewalt DWE402 has 11amps. That’s more than some competing brands. For example the Makita 9557PBX1 only has 7.5amps. What does the 11amps buy me?

Also looking for recommendations on cutoff wheels to cut this 4” cast iron pipe.

Thanks guys

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isb cornbinder

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Our shop has had and used MIULWAUKEE since the 1950s. I like my Milwaukee, cordless and corded tools. Their customer service is the best.
Our original SAWZALL is 60 years old. My brother sent it in for new brushes, cord and an oil change.
 

Alexander

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You'll probably get a good solid life from most of the major brands. They're made and sold as working tools, not some commodity. Steps up in price generally mean beefier and more substantial parts, stronger motors, potentially larger size/capacity, alternative switch methods, which can all potentially translate to a longer service life given the same tool/usage/parameters.

Something else that popped in my head: if you find yourself cutting pipe often, maybe consider a porta-band? More expensive to purchase, but cleaner, safer, faster cuts. Also a more specialized tool.
 

Mr Ratchet

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More amps usually means a more power full tool. Metabo has an 10.5 amp, Bosch and Milwaukee 11amps and Makita has 13 amps all in 4 1/2" models. I have a Hitachi 4 1/2" that has worked well for me. Any of the above brands would likely work well for you.

I use Norton metal cutoff wheels for metal. I'd use a recpiprocating saw to cut that cast pipe
 

sberry

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The cheapest hf isnt good. They make a better one for about 30$. The BD at Walmart for about 30 is very good and I got a couple that outlast most brand ones, got a couple ran a hundred 1/4 wheels in a fab shop, dont think a hometimer could wear it out.
 

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John in OH

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The cheapest hf isnt good. They make a better one for about 30$. The BD at Walmart for about 30 is very good and I got a couple that outlast most brand ones, got a couple ran a hundred 1/4 wheels in a fab shop, dont think a hometimer could wear it out.

You are a lot younger than I imagined you to be!
 

Tmct

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Any specific reason you’re using an angle grinder to cut the pipe? I use a recip saw work the Lenox diamond abrasive blades to cut cast iron pipe. Fast, easy and no sparks flying everywhere.
 

PhysicsDude

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Any specific reason you’re using an angle grinder to cut the pipe? I use a recip saw work the Lenox diamond abrasive blades to cut cast iron pipe. Fast, easy and no sparks flying everywhere.

X2. Reciprocating saw will cut pipe better, straighter, cleaner, and faster than a grinder.

Any of the major brands have pretty good grinders. My personal preference is Makita or Metabo. As mentioned previously, not all 4 1/2" grinders are made equally, I'd look for a higher amp model, like 9+ amps. Pay attention to the switch, too. Everyone has their preference, but if you're going to pay good money for a grinder, get the switch type that you prefer.
 

James-W

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You want a soil pipe cutter for that task. About $20 a day to rent.
I concur wholeheartedly. I rented one when my oldest daughter and I remodelled her downstairs bathroom. We removed about 25 feet of 4" cast iron pipe and replaced it with 4" PVC pipe. Those things work VERY well and the cost to rent them isn't all that much.
 

flying eyeball

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amason3

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As has already been said, buy one with a higher amperage rating, if you get up around 13 amps in a 4 1/2" grinder (regardless of manufacturer) there shouldn't be any issue with burning it up unless you really abuse it. Even with lower amperage units you should be able to hear and feel if its getting too hot, that is typically the only issue. If you're using it hard enough that the exhaust air is hot then you need to get out of the cut and let the motor run freely to cool itself down. A lot of air intake vents are poorly placed, so that leads to more issues with overheating and ultimately burning up the bearings. Even in cheap units, the windings, arbor, and contacts are seldom the issue. No offense, but a lot of people get in too big a hurry and drag the motor down too much; as with 2 stroke gas engines, small electrical motors perform with rpms, not torque. This is why 1/2" hand drills are geared and turn slowly at the chuck compared to the motor.

If you're cutting so much and need something to cut faster that can take abuse, then get a 7 1/2 or 9" geared grinder with a cutoff wheel. If you burn that up you're at least going to be sore the next couple of days from trying to force it into the cut.
 

ChrisLS8

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You should just get a good reciprocating saw. We use DeWalt 20v at work and I use Milwuakee at home. Even the Bauer would do well for you
 

Rarified27

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I have two DWE4011's and their 7 amp/12k rpm motors have never been too weak for anything I've cut like pipe, rebar, angle iron, etc...but I'm not cutting feet of the stuff at a time, so they're certainly not getting job site use.

However, I think their slightly lower power might be why they really shine when using a flap disc.
 

glend123

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I have a 5yr old or so Milwaukee corded one. I like it, except the on/off switch is hard to operate, especially with gloves on.
 

jonshonda

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I have a cheap PC that I thought was ok until I used a 7" 11amp Milwaukee w/ paddle trigger at work. I really shouldn't have done that cuz now I really want a grinder that size, it felt so much better to use when cutting with that 7" disc and all those amps!
 
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seber

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As has been stated, an angle grinder is probably the worst cutting tool for this job. Any of the other suggestions would be better. I have worn out a fair number of corded angle grinders. The one that I haven't been able to kill is a Metabo slow start. Surprisingly the ones that failed quickly have been Porter Cable. I suspect that is due to low amp rating. They just have to be pushed too hard.
 
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branimal

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As always some great responses.

So let me explain the whole job so you guys can best advise me….

I'm renovating a three family house - 1 floor at a time. Im currently working on the 3rd floor. I’ve got a tenant on the 1st floor and I’m on the 2nd floor. I’m going to replace the soil stack from the 3rd floor first. Finish renovations on the 3rd floor. Then replace the soil stack on the 2nd floor, etc. I'm going to take apart the pictured pipe in pieces to be safe - so I need to make multiple cuts. I’ll start at the ceiling and make my way down to the floor. I will need to make one or two cuts below the floor level. This is where it gets tricky. Will a soil pipe cutter be manageble under the floorboards? Is it safe to operate an angle grinder laying on my stomach and reaching way down? The recip saw needs to be the right size to reach down there and cut.

@Tmct, @PhysicsDude & @Mr Ratchet : Using a reciprocating saw would be ideal as it’s much safer and will give me a straight cut. I’ve used my dad’s old Ryobi recip to cut 2” cast iron in place and it took 8 minutes. Maybe that Ryobi recip just *****. Maybe there are better blades out there. I used a Bosch Diamond blade for Cast iron. What blades are you guys using? The Diablo Freud Steel demon seems to get great reviews on Amazon.

@JRC3 & James-W - So I went into a very reputable plumbing supply shop and talked to the senior guy there. I was set on renting a soil pipe cutter ($40/day here in nyc). He told me to use my grinder for the job. I told him there’s not enough room behind the pipe to get the grinder in there. The gap from the back of the pipe to the wall is about 3”. He said plumbers in NYC make these cuts all the time. See pic for his explanation… I’ve used the Lenox diamond edge cutoff wheel in the past. What wheel do you use to cut cast iron pipes?

Back to the original conversation : I definitely need a new angle grinder. Maybe not for this job. Here’s the pricing on all the high amp grinders. I’ll go to home depot and try them on for size.

Dewalt 11amp $70
Milwaukee 11amp $86 ( the body looks extra long)
Makita 12amp - $127

@Alexander - I googled porta-band and saw a video of a guy cutting a 2” cast iron pipe in seconds. I do have quite a bit of remodeling to do on a 3-family house and I’m partial to cast iron, so I’ll look into this.

@sberry - HF Grinder - i was using the $30 grinder. The blue one - I think the red ones are the cheapest. Can I hire your kid to make some cuts? ;>

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eyeball

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When considering an angle grinder, in addition to technical specifications, ergonomics should play a part as well.

I suggest going to a big box store or another place where they have a large variety and see which one fits your hand best. Consider things like barrel diameter, switch placement, switch type, and safety guard adjustability.

Regarding cutting that stack, if I could get one of the chain type cutters shown on the first page in the space, that would be my first choice. Consider the cost of the consumables you will use on the angle grinder and deduct that from the rental price then factor in your time and safety ("Is it safe to operate an angle grinder laying on my stomach and reaching way down").

Quicker, safer, and less mess me leans in favor of the soil stack cutter.
 
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bobcatdan

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I find DeWalt angle grinders to be pretty good. Every shop has them as the shop supplied grinder. They get the **** beat out of them and they just keep working. A good middle ground grinder where there are better, but it does what you want to do. Probably because I'm so use to dewalt, I find Milwaukee grinders odd for a reason I don't know. Personally I own a 4" makita that was made forever and a 4 1/2" metabo simply because it was too cheap to pass up.
 

XJSuperman

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Makita and Delwalt are the ones I like.

I agree for this job its worth investing in a portaband or a sawzall or both.
 
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branimal

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I’m leaning toward the soil pipe cutters. When I go back to the building tomorrow I’ll see if I can fit the cutter under the floor to make the “tough cut.”

The cuts above the floor level I’m not so worried about.

The tough cut is cutting below the inlet on the 2nd tee. See diagram. It’s labeled B in the diagram. The blue line represents where I’d like to make the cut. Will soil pipe cutters crack a fitting?

Cutting at that blue line will give me the room to attach 4” sanitary cross and plumb 2 toilets at the proper slope to the soil stack.

Tee A was improperly installed and hence the previous floor has to be built up with cement to get a decent pitch.


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sberry

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I am not sure who makes what and what are exact clones or same models. The BD from Wally or discount stores is a knockoff with a different switch from the old industrial BD 2750, here its a 7750 and while I like the feel of those and the DeWalt 402 which shares the same casting I had brush problems and over worked a couple and took out the armature and brushes. I got tired of hundred dollar grinders shitting and figured a 30$ one made in China can **** the same and so far have been impressed.

The cheap cords and ends last longer and I have replaced a couple over the years but open a new one and off to the races as well as having multiples. They also figured out the power to soon tire an operator without overheating it with a suped up grinder. I have a Milwaukee next to it and reach for the BD, I will agree the MIL has an awkward feel.

I would rather have a paddle buy can get used to the switch, I think this BD is one of the slightly cheaper Dewalt models with a different color plastic and different cord.
I got a deal at a Menards super sale and was 20$, should bought a couple more. They are smooth, last, got decent power, the cord is durable and they are cheap. 3 of them with different stuff would last a part timer most of a career.
 
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sberry

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You can cut pipe with a grinder, not good where it can burn and can be difficult. It can cut fast, recip with cast blade can be a little slow but can get it done too.
 

Git

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branimal

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theoldwizard1; said:
Demo all the way do to the the first union at the bottom below C. Rebuild with PVC.


Yep Wizard - that’s the right way to do it, but not sure I can reach down that far from the 3rd floor.



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branimal

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Git; said:
branimal, If I was you, I would consider buying this pipe cutter from Amazon
attachment.php


But instead of paying $530 for it, Amazon Warehouse has one for $95. I would think you would be able to sell it and get your money back you're when you're done using it


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B002F9MRY6/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all


Git great find. I’ll read the reviews. I thought only chain style tools could snap cast iron pipe.



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Ign

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They're not going to win the bang for the buck contest but if you want the smoothest, lowest vibration angle grinder Fein is hard to beat.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Fein-WSG17-125P-5-inch-Compact-Angle-Grinder-12128

That's the one I have. It has 13 amps, automatically compensates for high load and will shut itself off if you manage to bind it up. It is a beast, but is easy to use for extended periods.


This. It's a bit of internet lore that Metabo is king. Having owned several Metabos, Fein is winning me over. Metal fab is what I do for a living.

If the OP is on a budget the 7A Porter Cables w paddle are hard to beat. They're basically a DeWalt of course.

I've got several older Milwaukees but the latest Chinese offerings don't *look* impressive to me although it is true I haven't actually used them. At least w Milwaukee you would have a 5 year warranty

Don't get TOO hung up on amps. While more is generally better, at some point you're putting 300hp in a Yugo -- IOW overall build quality, gears and housings and bearings are also important.
 

Nineeightyone

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My best friend has a corded Dewalt 4.5" that's been great, I hear cordless ones aren't really worth the money though. I have the $30 HF one and it's been good to me, but I don't do long, sustained uses; typically if I'm cutting I'll move to the solvesall wherever possible.
 
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