Another 2 post lift question

[oachalon]

i have searched and just getting different information everywhere. I am looking to put a 2 post lift in my 3 car garage. I want to put it on the single bay side if possible. I have 4" concrete, and my ceiling height is 11ft. The lift needs to be able to pickup a C7 corvette, as well as a 1500 Silverado. Looking for something that will accept low profile cars and a standard full size truck. Nothing bigger than that truck.

I attached a screenshot of my house plans, specifically my garage. The hope is to put one post inline with the one wall to minimize the amount of space taken.

I am seeing what everyone recommends. I was looking at the bendpak GP-7LC, or a XPR-9S but again new to this. I think since im limited to 11ft, the floorplate versions might work best to get me as much height as i can.

 

[Ironcrow]

I would put the lift in the center bay. Not being able to walk around the outside of the posts is too much compromise for me.

 

[MotoCARR]

Exactly where I have my MaxJax M6, third bay of a three car, 8ft ceilings. The midpoint between the columns is centered with the door, plenty of space to get behind the column that's closest to the wall. I could even spread the columns out a bit more and still be able to get back there. I have lifted everything from my lowered 300zx to a regular cab short bed Silverado.

https://scontent-atl3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/55842741_10156289580893543_6622978783206965248_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.**&oh=210268b04f79afae4af8de69c26c8090&oe=5D592E4D

 

[FTG-05]

Exactly where I have my MaxJax M6, third bay of a three car, 8ft ceilings. The midpoint between the columns is centered with the door, plenty of space to get behind the column that's closest to the wall. I could even spread the columns out a bit more and still be able to get back there. I have lifted everything from my lowered 300zx to a regular cab short bed Silverado.

https://scontent-atl3-1.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/55842741_10156289580893543_6622978783206965248_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-1.**&oh=210268b04f79afae4af8de69c26c8090&oe=5D592E4D

What is the black hose on the bottom?

Thanks,

 

[Falcon67]

Can't really read the dimension, but having one post at least 24" off the wall is more than plenty to work around IMHO. My door frame is 36" off the corner and I set the post so that the inside of the post was at 36", leaving about 24 from the wall. Hasn't been a problem. Pump post is on the open area side.

 

[DetachedGarage]

What is the black hose on the bottom?

Thanks,

Hydraulic line that runs to the compressor. You can see the wheels on the back to move these posts around.

To the OP:
If you only have a 4" slab you might want to consider larger plates if you will be bolting this down permanently. You can see in the below picture that the grey extension plates were added in addition to the standard bolts to provide more support on a thinner slab. I do think the Bendpak XPR-9S would be a good model.

 

[dave*99]

There are plenty of lifts available that work with a 4" slab per the manufacturers recommendation. Bendpak included.

 

[firebirdparts]

I don't see how you can put a lift post in the middle of a wide garage door, like Falcon has. You can see how hard that would be to navigate around. I like a wide lift which makes it really not an option at all. You might be better off with a lift that's not so wide.

I went with a floor plate for exactly the reason you describe. You might have to be careful not to hit the ceiling with the truck, but you'll quickly figure that out.

As you probably know, the lift arms need some height to be able to have the necessary strength, and sometimes they don't quite fit on a really low car. They probably require truck adapters to pick the truck up. These are rich people problems and you will enjoy having those problems.

It's unusual for a lift manufacturer to ask for more than 4" of concrete. The big question we get into is whether there is really 4" of concrete or not.

 

[oachalon]

I understand the part about not having the post near that wall because it compromises being able to walk around it, but i think I am willing to make that compromise to keep space everywhere else in the garage.

The truck will very rarely be on the lift, mostly cars, but i hope i wont put the cab through the roof.

I do need to drill a hole and test. My house plans state the following for the garage floor:

4" concrete floor
6x6 #10 w.w.m
4" of porous fill

All garage slabs shall have a minimum strength of 4000 PSI and shall be air entrained

 

[DavesGarage]

Ive seen this done and when they went to pull a rear axle shaft they were really pissed it wouldnt come out far enough to remove completely.

what is 6x6 of #10 w.w.m.?

My Rotary 10k 2 post lift required 4-5" if I remember right...so I went 6", 4000 psi, #2 rebar 2 foot centers and stealth fiber. Having a vehicle fold you up would not be fun!

 

[astroracer]

Ive seen this done and when they went to pull a rear axle shaft they were really pissed it wouldnt come out far enough to remove completely.

what is 6x6 of #10 w.w.m.?

My Rotary 10k 2 post lift required 4-5" if I remember right...so I went 6", 4000 psi, #2 rebar 2 foot centers and stealth fiber. Having a vehicle fold you up would not be fun!

Welded Wire Mesh.
The OP's floor will handle a 2 post lift just fine... no worries at all.
Mark

 

[oachalon]

I get what you are saying, i might just have to template it out in the garage and see how it is.

Any other recommendations for this setup other than that bendpak XPR-9S i was looking at?

 

[astroracer]

Use some trash cans and set them where the posts will live. Work around them for a week or two. Remember these are immovable objects.
With only 21' to work with the front of the vehicle, on the lift, will be to close to the garage door and will prevent the door from opening fully. Door work will be required to use the OH while a car is in the air.
To close to the wall and you will not be able to walk around the lift when a vehicle is in the air. This is especially frustrating when working with a partial lift and you can't walk under the car to get to the back of the shop.
Just a few things to consider.
Mark

 

[Falcon67]

I get what you are saying, i might just have to template it out in the garage and see how it is.

This. I cut some OSB to the plate size, taped off the floor area where the lift would be and made a couple of short cardboard posts to get a feel for the location. It's not the least bit difficult to back one of the race cars in past the post. Get the angle right and you slide right on in. The door in the pics is a standard 16' wide. True, at only 24' deep I can't do that with the F-150 Super Crew, but still - works good enough.

Also note from the face-on picture that the left post is 24" off the wall and where the car sits is a good 16~24" farther inside the post. So no problem pulling axles, etc off the car. Plenty easy to work around the post, even with an F-350 one ton DRW truck in there that is every inch of 240" long.

 

[dave*99]

Ive seen this done and when they went to pull a rear axle shaft they were really pissed it wouldnt come out far enough to remove completely.

what is 6x6 of #10 w.w.m.?

My Rotary 10k 2 post lift required 4-5" if I remember right...so I went 6", 4000 psi, #2 rebar 2 foot centers and stealth fiber. Having a vehicle fold you up would not be fun!

My Rotary SPOA10 manual states it requires 4 1/4" of 3000 psi concrete.
I have the lift positioned so a window aligns with rear axle shafts. I'd probably never hit the wall as it's not that close. But for those who need to be close to the wall, maybe a window is an option.

 

[Dolfan]

I have a MaxJax as well, I've had it since they were introduced, great lift and I have mine installed in the 3rd bay of my 3 car as another person shown above. Below is my original thread on the installation that might be helpful to you. Lot's of great follow on discussion.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75488

One point I might make is the new GrandPrix line of 2 posts lifts might be worth looking at as they are designed for just your situation. I spoke with the folks at Bendpak about these as they offer a bit more lift height and come in 3 sizes. I decided not to go through the switchover mainly just being lazy and not having the time to swap out the lifts. But if I had it to do today I would look hard at these lifts.

https://www.bendpak.com/grandprix/

 

[firebirdparts]

If you have 11 feet, you can work on the truck standing up and that's what you should do. You don't have a low ceiling. You have a ceiling that requires a tiny bit of due diligence. if you use overhead connections, that'll cost you quite a bit of lift height unless the connections go through the attic (which would be brilliant).

 

[oachalon]

If you have 11 feet, you can work on the truck standing up and that's what you should do. You don't have a low ceiling. You have a ceiling that requires a tiny bit of due diligence. if you use overhead connections, that'll cost you quite a bit of lift height unless the connections go through the attic (which would be brilliant).

Are you talking about electrical connections? Yeah the receptacle is in the ceiling of course, but i can always move that without issue as the wiring is in the attic.

2 things i still need to do is also get a wall mounted garage door opener and see if i can get my garage door changed to swing up higher.

 

[sreeb]

One point I might make is the new GrandPrix line of 2 posts lifts might be worth looking at as they are designed for just your situation. I spoke with the folks at Bendpak about these as they offer a bit more lift height and come in 3 sizes. I decided not to go through the switchover mainly just being lazy and not having the time to swap out the lifts. But if I had it to do today I would look hard at these lifts.

https://www.bendpak.com/grandprix/

This seems like the dumbest answer for a low ceiling. Putting the cylinder in the cross piece eats into your ceiling height even more.

At 11' ceiling height, you want every inch usable. I would go with the floor plate.

 

[sreeb]

My Rotary SPOA10 manual states it requires 4 1/4" of 3000 psi concrete.
I have the lift positioned so a window aligns with rear axle shafts. I'd probably never hit the wall as it's not that close. But for those who need to be close to the wall, maybe a window is an option.

Axle shafts aren't that long and your axle won't be that close the wall even if the post is very close to the wall. I have trouble believing this is a real problem. Even if it was, you could mis-align the car with the lift a little or just drop the axle.

 

[like2wheel]

Ive seen this done and when they went to pull a rear axle shaft they were really pissed it wouldnt come out far enough to remove completely.

You have actually seen this?
I'd like some details.

Axle shafts aren't that long and your axle won't be that close the wall even if the post is very close to the wall. I have trouble believing this is a real problem. Even if it was, you could mis-align the car with the lift a little or just drop the axle.

Totally agree with this.
I'm in shops frequently, I see lifts close to walls all the time. I'm considering installing my lift close to a wall, so I started asking that question. Haven't run across anyone that couldn't get an axle out yet.

 

[firebirdparts]

Me too. I felt like it would be mean to point it out again. Axle shafts are awfully short.

 

[firebirdparts]

Are you talking about electrical connections? r.

No. Somebody above recommended the Grand Prix lift. The Grand Prix lift is designed to waste about a foot of overhead space. Look at a picture of it.

You don't want to do that. *unless* you do it in the attic.

 

[oachalon]

No. Somebody above recommended the Grand Prix lift. The Grand Prix lift is designed to waste about a foot of overhead space. Look at a picture of it.

You don't want to do that. *unless* you do it in the attic.

I agree, at one point i was looking at those, but have pretty much decided the floor plate option is the way to go, especially for most headroom. Doing axles, i am not worried about. All my cars have independent rears, except for the truck, so the axles are short. Also on the one side even if close to the wall, I have window there that I can open.

 

[Rod N]

I put 1 post against the wall and have no regrets.
Didn't really have much choice though.

 

[fiataccompli]

Is there a car/wall rule is thumb here?

I’ve noticed some friends who have professional shops AND plenty of ceiling height use floor plate type 2 post lifts & they say it’s not really a “problem”
To have the floor plate. To me, I can’t get past fearing I would be forever regretting it. I have 12’ ceilings, which is obviously 1’ more than 11’, but still a bit limiting for lift selection.

 

[firebirdparts]

12 feet is a lot. 11 feet is a lot only if you do it right.

 

[dave*99]

Hydraulic line that runs to the compressor. You can see the wheels on the back to move these posts around.

To the OP:
If you only have a 4" slab you might want to consider larger plates if you will be bolting this down permanently. You can see in the below picture that the grey extension plates were added in addition to the standard bolts to provide more support on a thinner slab. I do think the Bendpak XPR-9S would be a good model.

I looked up this larger plate on the manufacturers website. It states the plate reduces the concrete thickness requirement from 8" to 6.5". Obviously this plate fits a specific application and lift etc. It is a 9200lb lift and it seems odd they require 8" of concrete to begin with.

 

[DavesGarage]

Details as in photos? Didnt think to take any at the time. It did happen, my friend rented a shop that already had the lifts installed and obviously too close to the wall. He took a hammer and made a window in the wall. Would I do that? No. I am just stating something that helped me decide where to position my lift in my shop.