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Another Check My Wiring request.

JJ99SS

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Dec 19, 2014
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I searched, but came to the conclusion that while you may see something similar, electricity is just too dangerous to settle on.

I installed a double gang box in place of a single gang in a GFCI series of outlets.

I had the IN wire (supply side) and another OUT wire to the next box in the circuit.

I used WAGO lever nuts to pigtail the IN (HNG) into two sets wires, one for each outlet.

The OUT wire was connected directly to the "second" outlet in the box using the second set of terminals on the sides of the outlet.

I feel that this was correct. My main concern is with proper grounding with the bare copper wires.

I used a WAGO to create two pigtails for each ground screw on each of the two outlets. The OUT wire is also connected to the WAGO. So all the ground wires share a connection. This is correct right?

My Klein outlet tester (GFCI version) says everything is a go and I tested all the outlets with the GFCI test button and all were successful.

I just want to be able to sleep tonight without a fire extinguisher by the bed and one eye open. I am comfortable tackling wiring but I can't help being overly cautious.

In my photos you'll see some red electrical tape on a hot and ground wire. Those are the two HOT side wires coming from the box
 

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OP
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JJ99SS

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Side note. I've seen people use "jumpers" from one plug to the other, and while it seems "OK" for some I didn't feel right about it.
 
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JJ99SS

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Was there maybe a light switch here before?

No switch on this circuit. It was a single gang outlet I wanted to expand. I could use a few extra in the garage. There is no way that all will be used at the same time so I felt confident that it wouldn't be overloaded at any point in time.

It's a 15A circuit.
 

Wrench97

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The white neutral is a hot wire?
If it is a hot wire its wire wrong(but looking at what you have there I think it is a neutral)
If its a neutral take the tape off it.
Jumping outlet to outlet using the screw terminals saves room in the box and the cost of the splice packs.
 
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JJ99SS

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Messages
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The white neutral is a hot wire?
If it is a hot wire its wire wrong(but looking at what you have there I think it is a neutral)
If its a neutral take the tape off it.
Jumping outlet to outlet using the screw terminals saves room in the box and the cost of the splice packs.

No, it is in fact neutral. Black HOT white NEUTRAL per usual. I marked the "IN"wires or the set of wires from the panel, with red tape so I didn't get confused while wiring up the box. It was there for visual cue only.

Hindsight, I should probably go back and remove the tape.
 
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JJ99SS

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Messages
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Is jumping from outlet to outlet as opposed to pigtails per code?

I have seen it debated in other discussions/forums like YouTube comments. I personally didn't see the issue with it other than it wasn't generally as accepted as pigtails.
 

Wrench97

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No, it is in fact neutral. Black HOT white NEUTRAL per usual. I marked the "IN"wires or the set of wires from the panel, with red tape so I didn't get confused while wiring up the box. It was there for visual cue only.

Hindsight, I should probably go back and remove the tape.

Yes because that is the standard to mark a wire used as a switched hot, if may confuse someone in the future.

As for the jumpers vs splice packs I don't believe it's against code just not the norm.
 
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JJ99SS

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Got it. I didn’t see any issues with it, because there were no points that seemed to add any resistance. Unless the terminals on the outlets were somehow not rated to carry the load. I bought a heavy duty 20A rated outlet for a 15A circuit, but even at the standard 15A, I didn’t see why they wouldn’t handle the load.

I may go back in and 1 remove my red tape, and 2, consider removing some of the lever nuts in favor of jumping the outlets with smaller lengths of wire. There’s a lot going on in that box.
 
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Bert_

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Oh man! Why do I like to do heavy duty everything...:dunno:

I'll go swap them out at the store and replace. I figured that a little overkill was always warranted.

Most 15 amp outlets have the same guts as a 20. Literally the only difference is the extra slot in the plastic.

the only reason to install a 20 amp outlet is if you have a tool that has a 20 amp plug. A 20 amp plug physically will not fit in a 15 amp outlet.
 

PCustoms

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Most 15 amp outlets have the same guts as a 20. Literally the only difference is the extra slot in the plastic.

the only reason to install a 20 amp outlet is if you have a tool that has a 20 amp plug. A 20 amp plug physically will not fit in a 15 amp outlet.

Oh man! Why do I like to do heavy duty everything...:dunno:

I'll go swap them out at the store and replace. I figured that a little overkill was always warranted.

OP, the picture you posted is a 15A outlet.....
 
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JJ99SS

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OP, the picture you posted is a 15A outlet.....

I just realized that I did in fact purchase a 15A plug. But I did do the heavy duty ones. Went and looked at the packaging a few minutes ago. Well that's good news.

So how about those ground wires? Everything seem ok with the wiring...minus the still in there red tape?
 

PCustoms

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So how about those ground wires? Everything seem ok with the wiring...minus the still in there red tape?

I'm not an electrician, but seems functional and safe to me.

A bit clunky, and you are still passing all downstream current through the 2nd outlet (which would be rated for that btw) so you really didn't gain much with the WAGO.
 

wyliesdiesels

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I just realized that I did in fact purchase a 15A receptacle. But I did do the heavy duty ones. Went and looked at the packaging a few minutes ago. Well that's good news.

So how about those ground wires? Everything seem ok with the wiring...minus the still in there red tape?

fixed it for you :thumbup:

A plug goes on the end of a cord
 
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