Another garage door header post

[The Cobbler]

yup. high side ( crown ) up .

 

[Innovate1]

Looks good. Since you have trusses and with the ridge line orientation the way it is that header only supports the wall and roof directly above so not a huge load. For a 10' door a DF 4 x 12 is quite the overkill. But I always say overkill is underrated.

 

[Pluribus]

Quick question- so I picked up a Doug fir 4x12. Eric was right, was going to be a special order for gluelam and time is of the essence, as they say.
Since this huge beast is going to be probably too much for my bro and I to muscle up there <snip>

I managed a 4x10x12' pressure treated beam by myself without any specialized gear. Walked it up by temporarily fastening some 2x blocks to my posts on the side and clamping them on alternating ends with cheap, ratcheting bar clamps. Of course, then I followed that bit of creative problem solving up with a horribly out of focus photo...sorry.

12 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

Amazing deals on this 12In Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[md2020drums]

I managed a 4x10x12' pressure treated beam by myself without any specialized gear. Walked it up by temporarily fastening some 2x blocks to my posts on the side and clamping them on alternating ends with cheap, ratcheting bar clamps. Of course, then I followed that bit of creative problem solving up with a horribly out of focus photo...sorry.

12 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

Amazing deals on this 12In Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Oh man, that’s genius! These are all tricks of the trade, I suppose!
I think this is what I will do even though I already bought the chain hoist lol. Needed one anyway I guess.

 

[md2020drums]

So since I have a temp wall, I can tear this stuff out and leave it for a day or two, right? With my crazy schedule, I’m gonna have to do it piecemeal

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

So since I have a temp wall, I can tear this stuff out and leave it for a day or two, right? With my crazy schedule, I’m gonna have to do it piecemeal

Yeah, you’re probably OK. Temp wall along with the truss end-wall. But don’t push the time on the structure. Have everything ready to go so when old comes out- new goes back in, same day or next.

 

[ericlar80]

So since I have a temp wall, I can tear this stuff out and leave it for a day or two, right? With my crazy schedule, I’m gonna have to do it piecemeal

Yeah, you will be fine.

 

[md2020drums]

I think to make this safer/easier I’m going to take an 8’ 2x6 and run it across trusses behind the area I’m working on which to hang the chain hoist, which I will use to get 4x12 up there. My brother isn’t going to be able to work around my schedule, so I’m going at this alone.
I am assuming this 4x12 is close to or under 200 pounds. This should be plenty sufficient, right? Or is it a bad idea? Thanks guys!!

 

[ericlar80]

That would work.

Otherwise, if you have a rental place nearby, they should have a "material lift". It is basically a small, human powered forklift that is perfect for this kind of thing.

 

[Innovate1]

I just googled "4 x 12 Douglas fir weight" and found green weight of 10.8 lbs/ft. Since it won't be green is should be lighter but even with that a 10' one is only 110 lbs. Probably not something you can do all at once just picking it up but shouldn't be too bad with some light temporary framing, maybe just a post attached to the wall, to set one end up at a time. Problem with a chain hoist as I see it is whatever you wrap around the beam to lift it may get in the way as you push it into the wall. But you could put one end in and put a support under the other end. Then remove the wrap and push the rest in.

As long as you don't get any big storms, high winds, or a lot of snow I wouldn't be worried about leaving things apart temporarily. Even with some weather it looks well braced.

 

[Wolley]

Get two 2x12 and put them in one at a time if your worried about the weight

 

[dogdog]

It looks like the same type of constructions my parents garage header. Ranch style housing garage under the bed room portion of the house. I replaced both of the garage entrances headers one at a time. The garage door and track have to be taken down though, but it’s easy one man, almost basic hand tools, circular saw, edge guide, large carpenter square and tape measure , hammer and a crowbar.

Takes one person about 4 days, including taking out siding , door etc. Better do it during summer time, in the mean time you can buy some mold killing spray and spray on it to treat it for now from letting the spores spread.

In my case the problem was caused by incorrectly installed siding that allows water to penetrate over time, and then black ants were eating the soft moist wood plus molds. Nasty stuff. My mom that touched some of the rotted wood actually got an allergy and triggered shingles. Pita. Make sure wear a mask and treat the wood before sawing it. Ymmv of cause.

 

[md2020drums]

It looks like the same type of constructions my parents garage header. Ranch style housing garage under the bed room portion of the house. I replaced both of the garage entrances headers one at a time. The garage door and track have to be taken down though, but it’s easy one man, almost basic hand tools, circular saw, edge guide, large carpenter square and tape measure , hammer and a crowbar.

Takes one person about 4 days, including taking out siding , door etc. Better do it during summer time, in the mean time you can buy some mold killing spray and spray on it to treat it for now from letting the spores spread.

In my case the problem was caused by incorrectly installed siding that allows water to penetrate over time, and then black ants were eating the soft moist wood plus molds. Nasty stuff. My mom that touched some of the rotted wood actually got an allergy and triggered shingles. Pita. Make sure wear a mask and treat the wood before sawing it. Ymmv of cause.

Good call. Yeah, mines a detached shop but the scenario sounds identical. I got one side done in 4 days by myself, but that’s not including the sheathing or the siding. The plan is to replace all the siding on this side where the damage was. At this point I’m in too deep to wait. I’ve got tarps hanging up all over the front and a lot of the siding was demoed off because it was rotted anyway.

Here’s the other side that I haven’t touched yet.
Should I also replace this header?

 

[md2020drums]

Also, here’s the “finished” product on the side I just finished

 

[dogdog]

If the siding is not damaged you can save it by using this siding removal tool. Now as far as the flashing over the top facade of that garage door from outside. That was where my problems was. There is an aluminum channel looks like a a bar that sits over it ( dunno the correct name) and it was missing on mine. About $10 cheap, got all of them from homedepot. Also a roll of house wraps and some more aluminum flashing.

Malco SideSwiper Siding Removal Tool SRT2 - The Home Depot

The Malco SideSwiper model SRT2 combines the comfort and added leverage of an easy-to-grasp straight handle with the smooth unlocking motion of a burr free hook. The blade of the SRT2 is angled from the

www.homedepot.com

***Nvm mine was plastic vinyl flashings.

 

[PoorUB]

Yes, you can just get some screw jacks or wood jacks under the rafters on the inside and change out what you need to in the framing below. Personally, I’d cut the drywall back, string a 2x6 across the area I was lifting, and place a jack every 4ft, at least. This will keep everything nice and straight.

You don’t need to lift it but 1/16th. Basically just take the weight off and give enough space to sneak everything back in there.

Wood jack:

Geez, that is a lot of work for the final result! Just lay a 2x4 scrap on the ground, floor, driveway, and cut another about 1/4" inch longer than the dimension from the 2x4 on the ground to the top of the door frame. Stand it up and jam it in place, then take a block of wood and a hammer and pound the bottom over until the the jacking 2x4 is straight up.

I had a good friend that was doing a remodel. He had his cousin that was a full time carpenter do an addition to the house. Part of the removed was to remove a load bearing wall in the room adjoining the addition. Funny thing was, his cousin refused to remove the wall. He was not comfortable doing so.

I told my buddy I would do it for him. He was reluctant at first, but I guess I convinced him I knew what I was doing.

I put one 2x4 flat on the floor, another on the ceiling and drove in 5 or 6 2x4 jack posts on both sides of the wall I needed to remove. Ripped off the sheet rock, removed some wiring, wall structure, added a microlam beam and double jack studs on each end and removed the temporary 2x4s. He hired a guy to do the finish sheet rock work as I hate doing it.

 

[md2020drums]

Sometimes I confuse myself lol. I meant to ask if you guys thought the other bay header (pictured) should be replaced also? the other side which was much, much, so much worse than this..

 

[Toolfool]

Personally, I would replace it. I hate saying "I shoulda".

 

[md2020drums]

Personally, I would replace it. I hate saying "I shoulda".

Agreed.
With that being said, I’m stuck on figuring out how to proceed.
We’ve been having some crazy weather- snow, windstorms just bad in general.
I haven’t wrapped the structure yet.
To do this right, I should wait to do the whole side, correct?
Can you “partially wrap” where repairs are made? Hard to get good photos behind these tarps

 

[md2020drums]

Anyone? I’m going to go ahead and assume I should wrap the entire “front” of the garage thereby requiring me to pull all the siding off.
I was going to try to get away with the area I repaired, but that’s a pretty big area…

 

[Hank11]

You won't be wondering if you did it right if you go ahead and do it right. (Wrap it)