Another triple getting started

[mountainman72]

For 67carl & Showboy:

I took a few interior shots so you could see a few details of the house:

Bathroom with elliptical ceiling and curved butcherblock counter:

Staircase and living room:

Bookcase in the piano/reading room: build thread here:here

Entry way with fixture made out of gas line pipe:

Dining room with 'poor man's coffered ceiling':

Have a great day, Brett

 

[Showboy]

Showboy - Thanks for subscribing and for your kind comments. Do you really have 21 cars? If so, wow, and it's quite a broad collection.

Yes, that's my little stable. They call me the Time Capsule guy -- 'cause that's the type of vehicles that attract my attention ---- along with the oddball (and sometimes unluved) vehicles.

I just got #21 a month ago ---- which is the '86 Silverado that I purchased a month ago from its original owner ---- who is now 91 years of age. The truck has 71,000 miles on it and was always garaged. Its interior is perfect.

Back to your build, thanks for those interior shots. I REALLY like that style. Let me make a list of "things I luv"...
-- the bathroom ceiling
-- the bookcase/room divider on wheels
-- the staircase
-- the light fixtures
-- the ... EVERYTHING!

Thanks for your comments, too ---- and yes, I'll be following your awesome build.
~Danny

 

[mountainman72]

The other day my daughter and I picked up 1x6 PVC trim and ripped it in half. Tonight I only had a few minutes before I needed to put my kids to bed, but I ran out to start the trim pattern. Grainy phone photo, but you can get the idea...

Hopefully I'll get some more time this weekend to finish that side and begin the front.
Have a great day, Brett

 

[mountainman72]

Had to run to work today right when the concrete truck showed up. I snapped a quick phone photo before I had to run. More photos to come...

Teaser:

Have a great day everybody,
Brett

 

[Showboy]

More photos to come...

Looking forward to them, Brett.

 

[mountainman72]

Hello everyone,

Sorry I've been dormant for a while - work, vacation, etc. But I'm back and working on the garage again.

The concrete pour went pretty well. The slab and sidewalk look great, but there is a hairline crack in one of the stair lips. I have not had the concrete guy back to deal with that yet.

Sidewalk:

I asked the sidewalk to be pitched to get water away from door:

Stairs:

Slab:

I started the rough electric and put this temp bench together to get some tools and materials off the floor. The panel will be in this corner:

The south wall with regular 20 amp outlets, one 240 outlet, and boxes for wall mounted lights over a bench. I doubt I will install that many lights, but I'm not exactly sure where things will fall and it is so much easier to wire extra now and just put covers over what I don't need.

The east wall with pretty much the same set up as the south wall, except two 240 outlets:

Tomorrow I should get some more wiring done and hopefully some more siding/trim installed.

Have a great day, Brett

 

[Showboy]

Luv those wide steps. Lookin' good.

 

[Beemer533]

Looking very nice! I like how you cast in a lip for the steps...

Question on those light boxes in the walls; are you planning on installing cabinets at all over the benches? It seems like those boxes would be in the way? Maybe I'm not picturing it correctly...

 

[NUTTSGT]

I like the sidewalk with the angle and steps formed right into them. Did you use anything for an expansion joint between the garage foundation and house ?

 

[White04mach]

BEAUTIFUL house and a great property, I could only dream of a house like that.

 

[mountainman72]

Looking very nice! I like how you cast in a lip for the steps...

Question on those light boxes in the walls; are you planning on installing cabinets at all over the benches? It seems like those boxes would be in the way? Maybe I'm not picturing it correctly...

I think you are picturing it correctly, I just anticipate no wall cabinets directly over the benches. However, the benches might end up smaller than they appear right now, leaving space for wall cabinets. I'm not positive exactly how the space will be set up. Hopefully I will be able to move things in, and then not have to make too many changes.

I'm not seeing how to quote from multiple messages so I think I need to make another post to answer the other questions. Sorry!

Brett

 

[mountainman72]

I like the sidewalk with the angle and steps formed right into them. Did you use anything for an expansion joint between the garage foundation and house ?

I intentionally did not do an expansion joint between the garage and sidewalk. I tied multiple pieces of #4 rebar through the doorway to connect the sidewalk and the garage slab. I guess time will tell on that one - I have no idea what I'm doing with concrete!

Thanks, Brett

 

[mountainman72]

BEAUTIFUL house and a great property, I could only dream of a house like that.

Thanks!! You should dream - and then you should build something you love. But it sure takes a long time. Invest in a patient spouse first.

Have a great day, Brett

 

[Zeke]

I think you are picturing it correctly, I just anticipate no wall cabinets directly over the benches. However, the benches might end up smaller than they appear right now, leaving space for wall cabinets. I'm not positive exactly how the space will be set up. Hopefully I will be able to move things in, and then not have to make too many changes.

I'm not seeing how to quote from multiple messages so I think I need to make another post to answer the other questions. Sorry!

Brett

You hit the 'multi quote' button at each quote you'd like to post in your reply but hit the 'quote button for the last one and they will all appear.

RE the garage and house: I could pick up and leave my life and move into yours. Love the house, love the garage as long as it's heated and maybe cooled somewhat. At least a LOT of insulation. And I love building things and making things. I'm all built out but I'm not made.

 

[Goosman]

How tall is Front Wall with the bay doors. The single pitch is awesome looking. Sorry if it already says somewhere else in the thread.

 

[mountainman72]

Finished the rough electric! Finally. I was close when my wife made the good suggestion of adding ceiling fans to push down the winter heat, and I hadn't yet wired outlets for the garage door openers. Now that's all set. Next is probably one rapidair line and starting the service electric.

I decided to add a 6 ft wide closet across the end of my wife's bay. This adds some wall space, and obviously storage space. It just seemed to make sense as I was looking at the **** already piling up in the garage. I also ran a dedicated 240v line in there for a future compressor (don't have that one yet). Here are a few shots of the closet:

The last of the siding panels also arrived, so I put them up. Now the west side of the garage doesn't look so unfinished. Every time I work up high on this project I am grateful Mike left me his scaffolding. The panels are about 80 lbs so working off of just ladder jacks would be real tricky. Still a lot of trim work left...

Zeke - Thank you so much for your kind comments, and teaching me the multi-quote. The encouragement and assistance people offer through this forum is just amazing.

Goosman - I believe the front wall is 17ft. Thinking as I type here, 3/12 pitch, 28 ft deep = 7ft of rise, so yeah, I think about 17 ft.

Hope you all had a great weekend and a cold beer!

Brett

 

[Crown]

You can never have enough outlets. I like it!

 

[mountainman72]

Hello everybody,

A little more progress today...I finished the rough in for the rapidair install. While I did order an extra air drop, I neglected to order the necessary T's. So I could not pressure test. But here are a few pics:

A loose cable clamp around the hose kept it neat and unkinked:

These are for the manifold in the compressor closet:

I did three wall drops, then a drop on the ceiling and padded it out with some 2x for a hose reel:

That's a 28oz Estwing waffle, so that's a huge wasp:

I also trimmed out the three front garage doors, 1x8 PVC around the insides and ripped 1x6 around the outside:

I have to do some work that actually earns money tomorrow, so probably no garage work...

Have a great day, Brett

 

[John Tanglewood]

Your attention to detail is impeccable, loving your thread man!

 

[flytosail]

Awesome build! I really like your front windows.

Question: What is your snow load rating for your roof. Here in NH, I will need an 85 lb rating to meet code.

 

[mountainman72]

Your attention to detail is impeccable, loving your thread man!

Thanks! Trying to think of all the issues as I go, but I'm sure I will miss a bunch before it's done.

Awesome build! I really like your front windows.

Question: What is your snow load rating for your roof. Here in NH, I will need an 85 lb rating to meet code.

Thanks again! Front windows are recycled sliders purchased for a bottle of Captain Morgan. Snow load here is 50 lb/psf - less than you. I've lived here for a long time and it really feels like we get less snow than in the past. I skied off my roof as a kid and there's no way we could do that now. I used to climb a bit in NH during my climbing days... Thanks for looking.

Brett

 

[flytosail]

Thanks! Trying to think of all the issues as I go, but I'm sure I will miss a bunch before it's done.



Thanks again! Front windows are recycled sliders purchased for a bottle of Captain Morgan. Snow load here is 50 lb/psf - less than you. I've lived here for a long time and it really feels like we get less snow than in the past. I skied off my roof as a kid and there's no way we could do that now. I used to climb a bit in NH during my climbing days... Thanks for looking.

Brett

Thanks.

 

[mountainman72]

Hello everybody,

It's been a long time since I've posted any progress on the garage. I have a few other projects that have taken time away from the garage, plus the typical work/kids/life reality. But I have made some forward movement. Here's a few pictures to compliment the update:

100 Amp service over from the house - I still need to punch through the wall and into the panel in the garage. It is junctioned to jacketed wire in the house, but not into the house panel.

The walls are all insulated with unfaced R19, then covered with commercial vapor barrier, and now sheetrocked:

I took a fall a few weeks back from near the ceiling to the concrete floor. Luckily I was just banged up. As soon as I could work again I made this homemade scaffold:

I had planned to run the garage door track straight up with the torsion bars over the windows, then kick the track back along the ceiling as necessary. But there is not enough clearance over the windows to do this. Running conventional track would kill the whole idea of high open ceilings. So I bit the bullet and ordered commercial chain drive roll-ups. This is the framing they required:

Hope you're all enjoying the weekend. I have a few more photos I'll put in the next post.

Brett

 

[Sunbimmer]

Very curious to see what you're going to do with the interior of the garage.
House and garage look great, lots of nice details I like that. Please keep us updated.

 

[mountainman72]

Hello everybody,

Here are a few more shots showing the ceiling insulation, and the [crazy] plan for covering it.

Trusses are 24"OC with unfaced R30 covered with commercial vapor barrier. No reason for going with black other than it was free. I have a buddy that runs a plant that does facing for custom sized commercial insulation. For example, a company that needs faced rolls of R13, 30 feet wide. The black was a order mistake he gave me.

I like the beat up, rough sawn look of the flooring lumber in warehouses you see when you look up, between the joists. I was thinking about how to replicate that easily and cheaply in my garage. I thought of pallets. Pallets have beat, industrial looking wood, and they are free.

To take them apart, I welded a set of 1x1 steel tubing 'fork tines' onto the end of an F250 tie rod. Much of the wood is dry and brittle, and broke apart. But many were fine.

Here is the pile in mid-demolition. On the left are the oak stringers that make up the inside of the pallet. I will use those on other projects. In the middle are pallet boards that need to have nails pulled. Back right are boards ready for ripping to width.

Close up of pallet boards ready for table saw:

It is a bit of work, but I had about 200 sf ready in a few hours. It also saves me $1200 on sheetrock/taping for the ceiling. I think it will look cool too!

Thanks for looking, Brett

 

[mountainman72]

Hello everybody,

I did some more work today on the electrical. Set up the pole and LB against the outside wall, and set up the subpanel on the inside. Here's the outside rear wall:

I wanted the panel to look real clean with no exposed wires, so I did things a little differently. First I temp mounted the panel in the open stud bay prior to sheet rock. Then I mounted some bushings on the top and bottom knockouts of the panel, and temp connected LBs. Then I ran a 2x4 on the flat across the stud bay right where the LB hit. I drilled a 2 3/4 hole through these 2x4s. Then after sheetrock was up, I pulled the service wire and the circuit wires through the top and bottom holes. Here's how it looks now:

Hope you all had a good weekend, Brett

 

[Madhatter10-6]

loved the mock up pic at the beginning. Really nice shop

 

[mountainman72]

Hello and happy Saturday,

Another day, a little more progress. Finished installing the ceiling insulation and vapor barrier.

Picked up two tables my school pulled out of the art room that were headed for the dumpster. They're too low for work tables, but with 1 1/4 plywood tops, they are stout and could be sold later or raised up with new legs. Right now they are tool storage:

Also, the roll-up doors arrived for the front doors. They are looking super heavy duty, heavy, and complicated. I'm sure this install will be interesting. Here are the roll-up pipes, hoods, and mounting brackets:

And here are the actual doors:

After I got all of the insulation in, I hung the roll of vapor barrier under the smaller scaffold. Then I could be up high and just pull it and staple to the trusses. I could pull myself across the garage without having to get down. Then move the whole operation down and repeat.

After a few hours, I'm just about done. I just have a few inches at the bottom where I have to cut small pieces and staple up.

Hope you all had a productive day. Thanks for looking, Brett

 

[sean Buick 76]

Hi Brett,

This is my first time looking at your thread and it entertained me from the start all the way to here!

I really like that you have your kids into the build, and also the scaffolding you built.... I broke my knee cap from a 4 foot fall so you really are lucky... I could not work for 2 months...

What is the exterior paneling called? Neat idea!

I look forward to seeing how you do the ceiling with the pallet boards... I think it will look great!

I will subscribe to your thread so I can see all the updates!

 

[mountainman72]

Hi Brett,

This is my first time looking at your thread and it entertained me from the start all the way to here!

I really like that you have your kids into the build, and also the scaffolding you built.... I broke my knee cap from a 4 foot fall so you really are lucky... I could not work for 2 months...

What is the exterior paneling called? Neat idea!

I look forward to seeing how you do the ceiling with the pallet boards... I think it will look great!

I will subscribe to your thread so I can see all the updates!

Thanks for checking it out! The kids are great. My youngest put in many of the strike plates to protect wiring. Just gave her the box of plates, a mini hammer, and said 'go!'

The siding is 4x8 cement board panels from Hardibacker, offset to create a brick pattern. Then I ripped 1x6 PVC trim in half to cover all the seams. The panels are 5/16", and can be ordered pre-painted. Heavy, but pretty rugged. I have their product on the house too.

Thanks, Brett

 

[taumac]

Great build you got going there. Very detailed and taking time to all the important stuff. Like the extra storage area. I seen a guys garage once that was super super clean. I found out he made( guessing back few years now) 6 x 20 room behind his main work area where he stored tools, welders and etc. This kept the shop so nice it was amazing.

Have a good one, Gerard

 

[mountainman72]

Gerard - Thanks for the kind words. Based on your shop, I could learn some organization tips from you!

Thanks, Brett

 

[erda]

Not sure if I missed it, but what is the size of your garage doors? Thanks.

 

[mountainman72]

The three front doors are 9x8 and the rear is 8x7.

Thanks for looking!

Brett

 

[mountainman72]

Hello all,

More progress on the industrial wood ceiling. I kept breaking pallets apart last night and pulling nails until the wee hours. Today I racked up what I had prepped, moved the jointer out of the basement, and started running the boards through the jointer.

Here's the rest of the pile I still need to pull nails from:

Here's what I have racked up and ready for the jointer:

Using the 6 foot scaffold to rack the boards ready for the table saw:

One clean, finished edge to go against the table saw fence:

Right now we're off to make snowmen since NY is getting 6-12 inches. Maybe I'll run some more through the jointer tonight, but family, friends, and a cold beer might prevent that. Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Brett

 

[TiFJ]

I have a pallet project at home too that I have been procrastinating on for a year. Reason is that taking apart the pallets without having the boards crack and split is such a PITA. Looking forward to see how it all turns out for you.

 

[mountainman72]

TiFJ - do you have a tool to help you break the pallets apart? It's a bear without one but it goes pretty quickly with the right tool. I can post a picture of mine later.

Brett

 

[TiFJ]

I was just using a claw hammer and big pry bar. Tried drilling out the heads of the nails first - that didn't work very well. Tried using a circular saw to cut the ends so I'd only have to pull the nails in the middle - too much waste. Have considered trying the recip saw to cut the nails but haven't gotten there yet.

Please post a pic of your method when you have a chance, I'll try anything!

 

[1Garageman]

WOW, glad I found this and time to go through all of your pictures and messages. Great job! I am anxious to see how the pallet wood looks when you are done. I am wanting to do that to the walls in my basement around my pool table.
Keep up the great work!

 

[mountainman72]

Hello everybody,

I hope you all had a fun Thanksgiving. We had a houseful - fed 34 people Thursday night. I have a lot of artistic, creative types in my extended family and had a great time hearing about their current projects. From avant garde music, to jewelry making, to marble sculpting, to motorcycle builds, trips to Japan, and more. It was really great hearing about all the new ideas and fun adventures people are having.

Back to the build!

TiFJ - Many people do use the sawzall method you described. But it leaves the nails in the bottom stringer with no head. So if you want to reuse the bottom stringer for something, it's not the best plan. Since these stringers are often choice oak, I want to use them for some joined table tops and didn't want to leave nails in them.

1Garageman - Thanks for your kind comments. I'm looking forward to getting that darn ceiling up too.

Here are a few pictures of the pallet tool I made. It is rather crudely built (no fine welding beads on this one), but functional. I've changed it a few times, hence the cut tubing and multiple welds.

This shot shows the whole tool. It is made of a solid steel tie rod cut at an angle, welded to a horizontal piece of 1x1 tube. Then 1x1 tube tines are welded under the horizontal. The tie rod was scrap, strong, and a good length, but there's no real reason to use a tie rod. Anything stout that is the correct length would work.

At first I had the fork tines in the same plane as the horizontal. But I was cracking many boards. I cut the fork tines and rewelded them under the horizontal. This made the fulcrum higher, and has worked better.

Using it is pretty simple. Slide it under the pallet board, stand on the pallet, and press the lever down. Because the wood is old and dry, I usually apply slow pressure, or use short quick strokes, rather than a huge downward blast.

Sometimes you will have to stand on the pallet too. In this next shot you can see the board tearing on the underside. This happened frequently, and almost every time on pine boards. The bottom stringer is almost always oak, and the nails are almost always spiral shanked. This combo means they pull right through pine pallet boards.

I hope this helps anyone who wants to use pallet wood for a project. If you like the industrial look, they are a great free material.

Have a great day, Brett