Anti-seize on Lug Studs?

[4 FN 27]

Dry, maybe light oil.

No Pex.

Medium for a steak. Hard to screw that up.

Bacon, slight bending, not crispy.

CC cookies inherently have NO NUTS

Hot dog - plain

Parking, usually pull in.

Concrete > blacktop = gravel

No coffee for me.

I should add:

Copper over Black Iron Pipe for air.

Water Jet over Plasma and Laser over Water jet.

Climb Mill Only

SAE...F Metric!!!

Manual over Automatic (Race Cars only)

American Cheese

Rocksett Thread Locker on Muzzle Breaks and Suppressor Mounts

And Anti Seize on Lug Studs!!!

 

[mark#3]

A little dab of grease is best I think

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I should add:

Copper over Black Iron Pipe for air.

Water Jet over Plasma and Laser over Water jet.

Climb Mill Only

SAE...F Metric!!!

Manual over Automatic (Race Cars only)

American Cheese

Rocksett Thread Locker on Muzzle Breaks and Suppressor Mounts

And Anti Seize on Lug Studs!!!

I like metric, and pepperjack. Although American is my choice for a burger. Pepperjack is more of a sandwich cheese.

 

[lund]

Over-tightening can distort the rotor and sometimes even the hub flange, so it kinda does matter.

Not within any reasonable bounds. Again, the margin on larger studs like for wheels is LARGE. Significantly more than any small factor from lubricant. you are pressing against a thick steel backing plate. What matters most is they be uniform insofar as not crazy out of bounds (like sitting there hitting with an impact wrench).

 

[lund]

Most people really misunderstand factor of safety. Just because something is designed with X times factor of safety doesn't mean you won't damage or compromise the part by loading it beyond the design spec. Factor of safety just means you won't have a single cycle catastrophic failure when loaded to X times its design load. Doesn't mean you haven't permanently deformed or otherwise compromised the part by overloading it.

Generally fasteners are not sized with 2 times factor of safety. Bolted joints are sized to provide the needed clamp load at 60-70% of yield strength. That means when you torque a fastener to spec the bolt/wheel stud is stretched to within 60-70% of it's yield strength. Maybe not a big deal on larger fasteners but smaller ones can easily be overloaded with small increases in torque. Factor in the standard deviation on bolted joints, which can be high since you're relying on dry friction and some parts of the population will fail early. That is the one benefit of lubricating bolts that hasn't been discussed is it tends to tighten up the population and you'll have a more uniform torque/clamp load across multiple fasteners.

Uniformity is the key insofar as you do not go crazy out of bounds. A ~30% amplification from anti-seize, if uniform, is nothing on wheel stud. This is all legal silliness. It might matter on a very small stud that is closer to margins and yields. That is not the case for **wheel studs** in any typical situation. Conversely, corrosion *will* make the pressure nonuniform and case the problems I mentioned. That is far worse.

I have NEVER seen a torque wrench applied wheel stud fail. Never. I have seen corrosion mess up a lot as well as making it necessary to shock (which damages) to disassemble.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Not within any reasonable bounds. Again, the margin on larger studs like for wheels is LARGE. Significantly more than any small factor from lubricant. you are pressing against a thick steel backing plate. What matters most is they be uniform insofar as not crazy out of bounds (like sitting there hitting with an impact wrench).

Don't get rotor pulse and run out pulled into this. People act like the lugs are pulling the rotor 50thou crooked.

 

[KnurledNut]

@corn chip
@lund
@2ndGearRubber

“Hold my beer!” - Thermodynamics

 

[zmotorsports]

I’ll get things really fired up!!

I use Anti Seize on Lug Studs.

I don’t use Pex for Air Lines.

Steak: Rare.

Bacon: Extra crispy.

Chocolate Chip cookies: No Nuts.

Hot Dog: Ketchup only.

Toilet Paper: Over the top towards the front.

Parking: Always back in.

Driveway: Concrete.

Coffee: Like my Woman, cold and bitter.

Great list Pat. I can agree on everything except the bacon, toilet paper and coffee.

 

[customh]

Great list Pat. I can agree on everything except the bacon, toilet paper and coffee.

Hm. I never thought Mike would be so blatantly wrong about something, **** here he is spewing misinformation about the proper way to install a replacement roll of TP.

 

[pbon]

I have been using AS occasionally on wheel studs on my own cars for 20+ years. I live in a region that salts the roads in winter so there is corrosion. None of my wheels have center caps that cover the studs. I often also put a very light coating on the wheel to hub surface.

For obvious reasons, I don’t recommend to others or dispute the various warnings against AS on wheel lugs and studs.

 

[4 FN 27]

Hm. I never thought Mike would be so blatantly wrong about something, **** here he is spewing misinformation about the proper way to install a replacement roll of TP.

LOL...

 

[zmotorsports]

Hm. I never thought Mike would be so blatantly wrong about something, **** here he is spewing misinformation about the proper way to install a replacement roll of TP.

Travis, you don't know what a hot topic that is around here with family members. It's kind of the **** of their jokes and a real **** show.