It's not that simple. Mass of the objects must also be considered for galvanic corrosion.
Explain please.

It's not that simple. Mass of the objects must also be considered for galvanic corrosion.

NGK have trivalent coating. BMW, Porsche, Mercedes all say do NOT use any seize on plugs. Never had trouble in our shop with plug removal on any plugs so no I don't use it. Correct torque on plugs is more important
Flat rate, Have you ever done plugs on a ford 4.6/5.4 3v engine? if the original plugs were in more than 60-70k miles good luck not snapping one off.
Also having worked on propane forklifts for a while now, due to the time the plugs stay in the engine and heat cycles, I use it always.
Flat rate, Have you ever done plugs on a ford 4.6/5.4 3v engine? if the original plugs were in more than 60-70k miles good luck not snapping one off.
Also having worked on propane forklifts for a while now, due to the time the plugs stay in the engine and heat cycles, I use it always.
Sorry I should have said contact area. Here's a pretty good read on galvanic corrosion:Explain please.![]()
Sorry I should have said contact area. Here's a pretty good read on galvanic corrosion:
http://www.ssina.com/corrosion/galvanic.html
Yes they do. Right in the pamphlet.(Use anti-seize on the spark plug threads to prevent galling in
the cylinder head, and torque to 10 ft./lbs. Do not overtighten.)
Edelbrock recommends on their aluminum cylinder heads
Anti seize will do no good on the threads of the spark plug of the 3 valve triton.
The carbon builds up on the portion below the threads and causes it to break off leaving the electrode and housing behind.
Beat up the threads on the new plugs, run the wrong size thread chaser through the head, apply liberal quantities of structural hi-temp adhesive mixed with sand and filings from a brake lathe, and then run them in with an impact. Peen and/or stake them into place. A bead of weld couldn't hurt!!! Allow to cure overnight, and you're set! Next time you need to do the plugs, take it to your fave mechanic and demand he do them for the flat rate time.
I know not everyone would have such a thing but I have an old stash of pure silver anti seize compound. Once its gone its gone, so I use it just for plugs... back in 1990 it cost $300 for a small can. In my mind, given all the other variables involved...torque, thread cleanliness, mfg tolerances, condition of engine, etc, the presence, or lack of a small dab of anti seize isn't going to drive a predictable result 1 mile or 100,000 miles down the road.

