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jtrace

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2008
Messages
180
Location
Piscataway,NJ
Depends on what you are doing,I use mine for building scale models,some of which are on display in museums so I have high qualiy ones from Badger,Grex and Iwata.. If you are just messing around learning try the Harbor Freight one.I suggest a double action one.They are a bit harder to get the hang of,but once you do the are a lot more controlable. Also make sure you clean it very well after each use.Any other questions just let me know,I still have my original Badger 350 thats over 30 years old...


John
 

Troutsqueezer

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
236
Location
I think it's called California, land of Prii
I've been doing it for quite a while. I had a Paasche compressor and some expensive guns. Had a wild hare a few years ago and sold them. Later, I bought the Harbor Freight version and liked it much better at half the cost. Bought one of their cheap guns too and don't have any problems with that.
 

ZRX61

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
If ya get the HF version you better have good eyes when you take them apart for cleaning, some of the parts are VERY small. Don't even THINK about cleaning them in the sink... (No, I haven't lost any of the parts)
 
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skyking

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
1,856
Location
Dallas & Tulsa
Thank you guys , I would have never thought of harbor freight.I may totally **** at it so the cheaper setup will be better for now.
 

1quik70

New member
Joined
Dec 12, 2013
Messages
4
I use an airbrush almost daily for cosmetic application (I'm an embalmer/Funeral Director). I purchased a Dinair kit and hated the "high dollar" air brush, it constantly gave me fits. I bought a $30 gun off eBay and love it. I'd start with the HF setup and see how it works for you.


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woodrail

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
2,456
Location
Lorain, Ohio
I bought an Iwata. Il like he availability of parts.

I've got a long way to go on skill level.

I plan on having a natural burial without showing. I've spent a lot of time getting paint off of me. I don't need a embalmer putting it on! (But, I think it takes a special person to do this, I salute you!)
 

James E

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2010
Messages
16,507
Location
Raleigh, NC
I have several. Got an old Paasche from my Grandma that is my favorite but I also have a couple pretty nice Badgers that I find are good quality and I even have a Testor's Aztek that I find I use very often for larger projects.

The Paasche is for the detailed stuff and is the nicest.

Here's a tip, if you have a Michael's in your area (craft store), they have a 40% coupon in the Sunday paper every week and you can use it for one item in the store--any item. I bought a pretty pricey Badger airbrush in a wooden box with a full accessory kit with various needles, seats, paint cups and cleaning supplies for next to nothing by using that coupon.

Some people recommend going with an external mix, single action model to start out with, but you will find them too limiting very quickly. If you are mechanically minded, understand how a venturi works and intend to use the airbrush alot, go ahead and spring for a nice double action, internal mix unit. You'll be happy with its versatility.

HTH, James.
 

ScottsGT

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
4,883
Location
Lake Wateree, SC
Depends on what you are doing,I use mine for building scale models,some of which are on display in museums so I have high qualiy ones from Badger,Grex and Iwata.. If you are just messing around learning try the Harbor Freight one.I suggest a double action one.They are a bit harder to get the hang of,but once you do the are a lot more controlable. Also make sure you clean it very well after each use.Any other questions just let me know,I still have my original Badger 350 thats over 30 years old...


John

Same here. Although I sold the Badger 350, I use the Iwata and Grex all the time.
 

Jere

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2011
Messages
708
Once you pick your airbrush and compressor, your best friend should be a home computer printer a plastic kitchen cutting board and xacto knife to make stencils from. Print out a couple copies of the same image and trim different parts of the picture for different colors. Like if you have an image of a tree you are paintings on something, cut out one picture with just the green leaves. Then do another with the brown trunk, and another for the black shadows. Stencil work will make airbrushing fun if you have the patience to cut out all the details.

always act like the smallest lobster in the grocery store tank
 

Rhyno

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
327
Location
Salt on the left, Mormons on the right, Yup, "This
I would like to try airbrushing.What kind of equiptment do I buy. Brand? supplies?

I use a Badger 150-7 kit, that includes all of these parts.....

http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Badger_150.asp

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N72TI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I paid $80, 14 years, ago....

25002-0100-3-3ww-l.jpg


http://cdn.dickblick.com/items/250/02/25002-0100-3-3ww-l.jpg

I have added an Air/Water Separator, to the end of the hose, too.

61rjj8oiX4L._SL1500_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GQ3SUA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

.

I bought this, upon reputation, quality, and recommendations.

It is a "Dual-Action" brush with a lot of adjustments, too. The adjustments are important, if you can't mix or thin the paint, consistently....and I can't, very well...

There are small parts, but Badger has been around for a long time, so they are easy to find, if you loose something.

I break down the brush, on top of a paper towel, and then put the parts into a glass of water to soak. It is Super Simple.... Just be careful upon reassembly... a lot of parts are purchased because of "Cross-Threading."

I'm not a Professional Painter, but this has been a great and fun tool.

I looked at the "Hobo Freight" version, and the Badger had a higher quality "fit and feel" to it.....



Good Luck.....Post your progress and Projects...:bounce:

.

.

.
 
Last edited:

Rhyno

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
327
Location
Salt on the left, Mormons on the right, Yup, "This

readhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,175
Location
Durango, Co.
A long time ago I used to paint model trains for a living. I got tired of dealing with the compressor water with filters etc. I started using nitrogen or CO2. The CO2 was a little cheaper, $5 for a twenty pound fill, but it would tend to freeze. Both gasses laid down some very smooth paint but the nitrogen was better. The best part is you don't have to listen to a compressor. Buy the way a 3# nitrogen fill would last 6-9 months.
 

cgv69

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
1,033
Location
Boone Co., KY
I still have my original Badger 350 thats over 30 years old...
John
There is a reason why they still make that model :thumbup:

IMO - the 350 is the perfect beginners airbrush. Simple classic design that you can find parts and accessories for everywhere. I think DA brushes area little tricky to use for the average beginner. Even is you move up to a nicer dual action model later, you will always find uses for the 350.

As for the air supply... I would not invest in a compressor specifically designed for Airbrushes as they are very expensive. I use this... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Campbell-Hausfeld-3-Gal-Horizontal-Air-Compressor-FP209499AV/203002168?N=5yc1vZc2fhZbi and it works great for my needs.
 

MoonRise

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,028
Location
NJ
skyking,

The 'appropriate' tool for the job depends on the job at hand. :D

Airbrushes are no different.

Usage? Applying spray tan? Applying makeup, either beauty makeup or SFX makeup? Applying stain to small woodworking projects? Apply stain or finishes to slightly larger woodworking projects but not big enough to want/need/justify use a a full-up spray gun, either HVLP or 'conventional' high-pressure spray? Fine art? Photo retouching (on the actual photo and not via Photoshop on a digital file)? Mural painting? Auto paint details?

So the answer is, it all depends.

It depends on how 'good' a tool you want or desire. HF may meet your needs, or you might not be happy with anything less than a 'high-end' Iwata or similar.

It depends on how thick the 'paint' being applied is. (you can't always practically thin some really-really thick finishes down enough so that you aren't pretty much just spraying thinner.)

It depends on how much 'coverage' you want or need to put down with each 'pass'. Painting a mural you would usually want to put down more paint and a wider spray coverage than a photo-retoucher 'fixing' a single skin pore blemish or fine artist putting in a single strand of hair.

Check out http://www.dickblick.com for 'artist' stuff.

http://www.iwata-medea.com/ for Iwata airbrush info.
 

ZRX61

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
28,716
Location
Solar Blight Valley, SoCal
My kid would spend hours in the garage with hers. Hooked up to my 60gal compressor via the filter/regulator on my plasma cutter cart. Had to keep an eye in her though, ended up with a bunch of custom painted clays for shooting one day...
 

johnny5c

Active member
Joined
Sep 29, 2012
Messages
27
I've been airbrushing for over 20 years, started doing t-shirts in high school and still do some automotive stuff for friends and family. I use mainly Iwata for automotive/motorcycle stuff and Paasche and Badger for most everything else.

A few years ago I picked up a couple of these Peaks and you can't beat the quality for the price, plus they use Iwata parts so you can find replacements at most local craft and hobby stores.
http://www.bearair.com/PEAK/products/1087/
 
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skyking

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
1,856
Location
Dallas & Tulsa
My wife got me a kit with her hobby lobby 40% off coupon.
Paasche double action internal mix. Also 5 colors.
Can you shoot auto clear on the water based paint.If not where do you get the paint for that.
 

ratdoggy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
11,971
Location
Akron-Canton area OH
Depends on what you are doing,I use mine for building scale models,some of which are on display in museums so I have high qualiy ones from Badger,Grex and Iwata.. If you are just messing around learning try the Harbor Freight one.I suggest a double action one.They are a bit harder to get the hang of,but once you do the are a lot more controlable. Also make sure you clean it very well after each use.Any other questions just let me know,I still have my original Badger 350 thats over 30 years old...


John

I bought a couple of the HF ones they were ****. Very hard to re-assemble after cleaning. Then would just sputter or no paint. Threw it against the wall and then in the trash. Bought a Paasche double action and no problems.
 

Hpozzuoli

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2013
Messages
3,428
Location
Rhode Island
I use an airbrush almost daily for cosmetic application (I'm an embalmer/Funeral Director). I purchased a Dinair kit and hated the "high dollar" air brush, it constantly gave me fits. I bought a $30 gun off eBay and love it. I'd start with the HF setup and see how it works for you.


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So where's the pictures of your work?
 

1quik70

New member
Joined
Dec 12, 2013
Messages
4
No pictures of my work... I appreciate the kinds words.


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Rhyno

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
327
Location
Salt on the left, Mormons on the right, Yup, "This
My wife got me a kit with her hobby lobby 40% off coupon.
Paasche double action internal mix. Also 5 colors.
Can you shoot auto clear on the water based paint.If not where do you get the paint for that.

Congrats on the Paasche.... Take care of it, and it'll last longer than you....:lol:

The five color "BONUS" will get you headed in the direction that fits your personality and style. :D

I don't know why you couldn't use an AutoMotive Clear over the top of water-based.... I'd just make sure that it is "CURED" or "dry."

Don't be shy to post your pics.... I have posted a few, expecting the "Internet Bad Paint Police" to come out.... and I either got a few compliments or a few compliments with sarcasm attached.....

I'll put some together of the latest project, and post them here.... if you don't mind.....
 

RobSmith

Banned
Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
562
Location
NSW Australia
Simple ...buy some cheap stuff and see how good you are ! Get others to criticise on your work ! (don't ask mum or rellos) If it's half good and you can produce decent stuff with cheap ****......buy something better Good luck ! :)
 
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skyking

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
1,856
Location
Dallas & Tulsa
Been reading everything I can and watching u tube. Messing around with the airbrush just to get to know the parts and familiar with the trigger. Thanks again for the help.
 

Rhyno

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
327
Location
Salt on the left, Mormons on the right, Yup, "This
Been reading everything I can and watching u tube. Messing around with the airbrush just to get to know the parts and familiar with the trigger. Thanks again for the help.

When you are up to it......Try a "Tequila Sunrise" style paint job. It'll teach you a lot concerning Brush control and paint control......

Plus it's easy and uses a simple color scheme.....

And it's prideful and fun.....:bounce:

.

.

.
 

HotRodMan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
69
I have a different idea that no one has mentioned. I wanted to paint some flames on a base coat cleat coat paint job on a car. I took my regular paint gun that I used to paint the car, turned the fan knob until I got a fan the size of a quarter, turned the air pressure way down to 10 psi at the gun with the trigger pulled, and mixed up my flame paint with 3 times the recommended reducer. After taping off the flames, I used that gun to fade in the flames so they were solid at the front and gradually faded away toward the back. I let that dry and then sprayed the clear coat over that and they turned out great. Everyone always asks me where I got those flames painted , when I go to the car show.

This idea would work for you if you only have occasional use for an air brush. If you do a lot, you would want to get the real thing. Also I had to do a lot of testing before actually getting on the car. I had flamed plywood, the mailbox, a trash can, fenders on a utility trailer, and the riding lawnmower before I got good enough to paint the car.
 

PelicanPines

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
38,104
Location
New Jersey, USA, Earth, My own reality
Old thread... I'm getting my feet wet with airbrushing.

Picked up a Badger 150 pro kit... like new for $40 on Amazon Warehouse... it's siphon fed... but comes with a gravity pot adapter thing a majig.

I have thinner, cleaner, cleaner kit on order...
 

MoonRise

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,028
Location
NJ
Pines,

Thinner and cleaner depend on the specific paint being used.

Acrylic (water based paint) versus a 'solvent' based paint (yeah, I know that water is the 'solvent' in water based paint, but you know what I mean).

If spraying paint (which includes an airbrush), use appropriate PPE and or environmental controls (like fresh air flow AND overspray capture or control).

I took an old medium-big cardboard box, hot glued in some more cardboard strips/pieces in several places, put in some old 120V PC cooling fans and some furnace filters. Voila, mini spray booth. But I ONLY spray water based acrylic in it, as it is inside the house (basement actually). Overspray is captured in the furnace filters or the disposable paper sheets I put inside the 'booth'. The fans pull air into the box, then up into the furnace filters, then out through the fans and back up into the room. Works for what I use the airbrush for (smaller stuff, not painting a building mural :lol: )

For the size stuff I was/am painting, the siphon feed airbrushes with the paint bottle/jar underneath were more paint than I needed. And bigger. And heavier/bulkier.

A gravity feed Iwata works better for me (on multiple ways of "better"). Need more paint? Just add some more into the gravity feed cup reservoir.

And clean up is way faster with the smaller reservoir.

I wouldn't want to use the small airbrush to paint a mural on the side of a building. :lol:

YMMV and all that.

Some paints should NOT be sprayed, because of either the solvent OR the actual pigment (cadmium red, anyone?) is 'dangerous' in some way. RTFM and be safe with what you are spraying.

And you can't necessarily just dump in a whole bunch of 'thinner' willy-nilly into some paint, as you can then overthin the paint so much that the paint film (the resins/binder in the paint that make it 'stick' to what you are painting and that make the pigment in the paint stick to what you are painting) is so weak/thin that it fails to perform properly as a paint. You can end up with a 'dust' of pigment that just falls or flakes off or the paint film otherwise fails.

Just an FYI, in case you didn't realize that.

Ask away if you have questions. I sometimes have answers. :D
 

PelicanPines

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
38,104
Location
New Jersey, USA, Earth, My own reality
Gonna start with water based but I have plans for solvent based as well.

I have a tabletop spray booth thing with a fan and 20x20 filter... and an organic vapor mask. Plus an additional fan that keeps air moving. I plan to only spray right at the garage door while open.

Someday I want to do a few touchups on my car... my expectations are limited to half assed for that project.

I'm not a picture painter... I'm a touch up repair person with many types of things... cars not really one of them. But some are metal.

I've said... If only I had an airbrush... Badger 150-7 pro... $40... couldn't pass that deal.
 

HotrodHR

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
Messages
445
Location
North Alabama
My wife got me a kit with her hobby lobby 40% off coupon.
Paasche double action internal mix. Also 5 colors.
Can you shoot auto clear on the water based paint.If not where do you get the paint for that.

Yes you can shoot automotive clear coat over water based paints. Paints need to be "set" or fully cured (use a hair dryer). Check out Auto-air paints... you can several colors in small bottles that you can swap out easily with the right airbrush setup.

https://autoaircolors.com/
 

isb cornbinder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I have Paasche. My first Paasche is over 40 years old. Both are single action. I am OK with this. Anything else is way above my skill level.
I cannot recommend one over another. I have more experience with my BEUGLER pinstripe paint tool. My fist Beugler lasted 40 years. I just bought a new one.
 

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