Any asphalt driveway experts in here?
- Thread starter Gnfantic
- Start date
smalltown
Well-known member
Gnfanatic Curious what are the dimensions of your proposed area, and did they tell you what they would put down for base and top coat(s) ?
Just trying to get a feel for my own future paving.
For my own I had a gut feeling $8,000.
Just trying to get a feel for my own future paving.
For my own I had a gut feeling $8,000.
First quote came yesterday, my driveway will be 12' wide- 170' long, will flare out to 25' at the street, it will tie into my concrete drive going into house garage and 50' wide x 60' deep approx. going into my barn. I have approx 5200 sq ft of gravel. He said the base looked great, the gravel driveway has been there many years and gravel going into barn has been there 5 years, it is packed pretty good. His price was $8475, I have another guy coming friday to compare. it was 2 1/2" of asphalt-roll and compact to 2".
machsnell
Well-known member
That's pretty cheap price if it is based on paving 5200 sf. You need 87 tons and surface mix w tax is 56 ish per ton. Add in 8 to 10 bucks for a haul rate and you are looking at close to 6000 for materials. 2500 bucks to fine grade the stone and water and compact then pave is cheap.
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He commented on my gravel drive being in good shape and needing minor grading, also he said the asphalt plant was 5 miles away, that was for 2 1/2" of asphalt compacted to 2"? I guess that is normal? I have another bid coming Friday to compare.
ford33
Well-known member
Have you considered a porous permeable driveway surface using grids or block?
It might cost more initially but long term offers better water run-off and perhaps lower maintenance costs and longevity.
It might cost more initially but long term offers better water run-off and perhaps lower maintenance costs and longevity.
machsnell
Well-known member
If a loose 2 1/2 then yes 2 compacted. We only deal in compacted depth. It is a little deceiving to use 2 1/2 but lots of driveway guys do that to make it sound like it's more asphalt.
Anyway so 69 tons at say $69/ton w haul rate at 5 miles. 4800 for material and haul leaves him 3500 for crew and profit. Still cheap but more reasonable.
2 inches is ok if you have decent solid base. Proofroll with a heavy truck and look for movement if you really want to know if its solid.
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ard
Well-known member
put in the base now. After the garage is built- all done, all the trucks and trades gone, then lay the asphalt.
Id wait a season or two actually.
Id wait a season or two actually.
Second estimate came the other day, he came up with 4800 sq ft and was actually $200 cheaper, he sent an email presentation with pics, drawings and dimensions labeled on drawing, I think I am going to go with him. My base driveway has been in many years (When I bought the property, I had to tear down an old horse barn and a 120 Y.O house, gravel driveway has been there a very long time) my gravel pad going into my barn has been down for almost 5 years now. Just need some dry weather so I can finish grading the yard.
kd3pc
Well-known member
you can, but it would be best to repair/patch and make sure your base is stable...if it moves, the new stuff will not last.
2" is not much to roll, it should be at least 2" rolled.
2" is not much to roll, it should be at least 2" rolled.
chipper
Well-known member
I just had a new asphalt driveway poured today and forgot to ask this....I detail cars on the side are there any type chemicals I should avoid? I do use some acid based wheel cleaners but I could go in another direction
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machsnell
Well-known member
2 sides to that coin. Existing asphalt does provide structural strength to driveway.
However, Cracks will reflect through into new surface coat much quicker. They focus the movement in the exact same location as the surface underneath. Think of asphalt as a sheet of metal if you bend it in the same spot over and over it will crack in that location. Same with asphalt.
That is why concrete highways that have been paved over crack on the exp/contr joints. Slab moves as one piece and joints flex.
Will you have enough axle loads/freeze thaw cycles over it to make it happen quick? No. But it will happen.
We install paving fabric over large joints and big rolls of fabric over lots and roads that have extensive "alligatoring" works very well along as subgrade is relatively solid and surface not rutted badly.
Basically tack is sprayed heavy and fabric stretched (placed really) over the tack/road surface. It gains strength from its lateral pull being sandwiched in between 2 layers of asphalt.
It can be done manually on a driveway for the worst areas as long as your pave has a tack wagon or tack truck.
If it's really bad and moving then it should be removed or patched in the worst areas.
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Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,..... Anything that cuts grease, 'n oil will desolve blacktop,....
Gasoline is about the worst,....
I got an estimate today. 4100 square feet for $9880.00. This is what is listed on the estimate.
Complete grade
Weed Kill
Compact
Install 1100T hot mix approximately 3".
There has been a gravel driveway since the house was built 13 years ago. They told me I have a good base. Therefore I do not need the 2" asphalt base.
Not sure I buy that.
I think I need a few more estimates. Guy didn't want to talk details. He wanted to measure and leave.
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Complete grade
Weed Kill
Compact
Install 1100T hot mix approximately 3".
There has been a gravel driveway since the house was built 13 years ago. They told me I have a good base. Therefore I do not need the 2" asphalt base.
Not sure I buy that.
I think I need a few more estimates. Guy didn't want to talk details. He wanted to measure and leave.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Jayhawk_Aviator
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2015
- Messages
- 123
I have a long gravel driveway. Has been in place 20 years. My asphalt quotes are all over the place. Some say I need 5 inches, others say I’m fine with 3 given the good base. Is 3 inch typically acceptable? How long relative to a concrete driveway does one typically get out of asphalt?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
5" compacted? That seems very thick
Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,..... Extremely thick,..... Tractor trailer driveway thick,......
Properly installed blacktop should last 20 to 30 years,....
pwhittle
Well-known member
We are looking at a 200’ x 14’ driveway to a detached RV garage.
RV is 48,000lbs.
I was thinking 6” concrete with rebar.
Contractor is offering an alternative of 6” aggregate base, 2 1/2” 25mm Superpave asphalt, then 1 1/2” 12.5mm Superpave asphalt.
Does this seem suitable for the RV traffic in and out?
Location is in Atlanta, GA area. Ground has not been disturbed before.
Thx in advance
Paul
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RV is 48,000lbs.
I was thinking 6” concrete with rebar.
Contractor is offering an alternative of 6” aggregate base, 2 1/2” 25mm Superpave asphalt, then 1 1/2” 12.5mm Superpave asphalt.
Does this seem suitable for the RV traffic in and out?
Location is in Atlanta, GA area. Ground has not been disturbed before.
Thx in advance
Paul
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Yes, it sounds like the contractor's suggested process of reclaiming and reusing the existing pavement is suitable for the RV traffic in and out of your driveway. The 6" aggregate base, 2 1/2" 25mm Superpave asphalt, and 1 1/2" 12.5mm Superpave asphalt is also suitable for your Atlanta, GA, area. However, you should take into consideration the fact that reclaiming and reusing the existing pavement is a more economical option than a complete tear-out and removal of the old driveway. Since you have a long driveway, this may be a more cost-effective option for you. In regards to the contractor's suggestion to pulverize the existing pavement and mix it with a new base material, it is a good idea to get more information about the process and its benefits. I've done such a process with the guys from Akron Asphalt Repair, and I am very delighted with their work. Good luck!
Last edited:
Bill T
Well-known member
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I don't think I'm an expert, but have laid many hundreds of tons of asphalt, and perhaps more importantly seen how the previous jobs had eventually failed.
Firstly, there seems to be a huge regional variation in what's normal.
Az has roadways at what 140f?
Mi has this frost heave madness.
My area has neither, our chief enemy is the muddy substrate.
Each of these calls for a different underlayment and mix composition of you want it to last.
So it's hard to give an absolute rule aside from be sure to spend enough
And no joke /\ this is the single biggest cause of driveway and small road problems. We had heaps of road associations want to budget 1" of asphalt when the roots stick up 2, and the potholes that make up 1/3 of their road are 2"deep.
Here, 2" is pretty normal, and I think you gain more from a geotex underlayment than more asphalt, unless you happen to have a collection of 10 ton trucks.
Proper compaction and drainage underlay any success.
I don't recall any job where we let stuff settle for a month.
My best tip for a good looking driveway is provide a formed edge the crew can pave up to without thinking. I always tried to make a nice edge, but some guys don't, and sometimes the lay of the land is really unhelpful.
Firstly, there seems to be a huge regional variation in what's normal.
Az has roadways at what 140f?
Mi has this frost heave madness.
My area has neither, our chief enemy is the muddy substrate.
Each of these calls for a different underlayment and mix composition of you want it to last.
So it's hard to give an absolute rule aside from be sure to spend enough
And no joke /\ this is the single biggest cause of driveway and small road problems. We had heaps of road associations want to budget 1" of asphalt when the roots stick up 2, and the potholes that make up 1/3 of their road are 2"deep.
Here, 2" is pretty normal, and I think you gain more from a geotex underlayment than more asphalt, unless you happen to have a collection of 10 ton trucks.
Proper compaction and drainage underlay any success.
I don't recall any job where we let stuff settle for a month.
Different jobsite conditions , but not really better. Bit of you pace over mud, your asphalt will behave like mud.
Geotex on hairpin turns, attention to compaction and base.
My best tip for a good looking driveway is provide a formed edge the crew can pave up to without thinking. I always tried to make a nice edge, but some guys don't, and sometimes the lay of the land is really unhelpful.
dcg9381
Well-known member
There's no property tax hit that I know about (here) on drives/driveways for asphalt vs concrete. Guess that's not the case elsewhere.
I've done pre-dyed concrete and post install stained concrete. I'd never use black, but I'm in Texas.
Mike65
Well-known member
Following this since we need to have our driveway re-done here in southwestern Virginia.
lake marine
Active member
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- Jun 17, 2022
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- 27
Im southcentral Va. and looking to have mine redone - did you have yours redone yet?
All-
I just got a quote this AM to have driveway re-surfaced. Said they would cut a 4" wide "trench" to the base at "tie ins" (house garage and detached shop concrete apron) then grind/mill a 2' foot wide X 1.5" deep up to that and grind all along the periphery then apply tack tar in a zebra stripes an lay 2 1/2" of 9/5 asphalt. Does this sound like a legitimate process? Ive been searching the web and cant find anything on a process like that.
Mike65
Well-known member
Yes, we had ours done last month, it is 80' long from the street to the carport & approx 15' wide up 1/2 way then it widens to the far end of the garage/shop which is apporx 50' for a total sq ft of 2690 sq ft. The notes on the quote says 36 tons & 1 1/2 load 2" thick on top of 4-6" of crush & run base which to me looked like stone & sand mix. Using a vibratory roller, wet pack & roll the base. They let it sit for 1 week before applying the asphalt. We used a company out of North Carolina that also has a Virginia phone number called American Asphalt.
