any powdercoaters here?

[volaredon]

I have recently bought myself an older above ground 2 post hoist via CL;
the hoist is still apart from when I took it down from where I bought it, and I have a source to get some of the "more easily handled" parts, powdercoated.

there are a couple parts we are debating on just spray painting, (the motor itself, will definitely be rattle canned, not powdercoated) but like the hyd. cylinders; one was known to be leaking when I bought the lift; I have rebuild kits on hand, and both will be treated to a rebuild before I install them; and, the oil reservoir from the pump assembly is made of metal and can be removed pretty readily from the pump;

what are your thoughts, on whether these oughtta just get scuffed and rattle canned--or, if they can be safely be bead blasted and powdercoated? and at what stage?
By that, I mean/ do I rebuild the cylinders and then mask, bead blast and coat? OR do I blast and powdercoat THEN rebuild, OR take apart, and do the pieces (cylinder and gland nut) and then assemble? --or, is this something I should just figure an extra couple cans of Krylon for, to be safe?
I do know that powdercoat would be more durable, and that I definitely plan on having this hoist for a LONG time; but I also know that new cylinders are $935/each (the lift has 2 of them); that, I am NOT doing.

 

[930dreamer]

I'd just clean, sand, prime and rattle can it. I'm not sure you would want to have the cylinders in an oven? If you're going to do the rebuild, dissassemble (beadblast) if you can do so without damaging anything. Post some pics. I'd want it setup and working so I wouldn't be all to worried about looks.

 

[volaredon]

I'd just clean, sand, prime and rattle can it. I'm not sure you would want to have the cylinders in an oven? If you're going to do the rebuild, dissassemble (beadblast) if you can do so without damaging anything. Post some pics. I'd want it setup and working so I wouldn't be all to worried about looks.

I was thinking the same thing; yes, I do have the rebuild kits and the spanner wrench needed to get them apart; but, if i do have them coated, i was leaning towards either having it done before I dismantle them, while still together so the gland nut acts as its own "thread protector" or having them done while they are apart. The idea of putting fresh seals in and then putting them into an oven does not sound too appealing; I'd be afraid that I would ruin the new seals, and be back to Square one.
but as things stand at the moment, one of the cylinders is known to be a leaker so I have no choice but to rebuild them before I reassemble the lift. I mean they have not been touched since they were built in 1986 so they are due, anyway...
but on the other hand, "if" they decide to leak again at some point down the road, I know that Krylon or Rustoleum do not take to oils and such very well;
if the cylinders themselves or a fitting decides to spring a leak, I don't want the paint coming off with the leak; but I want a nice fresh surface so it will be easier to see "if" something is leaking in the 1st place.
If I don't have them powdercoated, what is a good paint that is resistant to this?
this hoist is now almost an olive green (typical "machine shop" green for lack of a better way to describe it) with the arms and floor plate brush painted safety yellow over original faded Safety orange.
We are going with the columns roughly the same as "Chrysler Engine Blue" and the carriages, arms and floor plate being safety orange again.
(these are the colors they have plenty of stock of)
Dont quote me on the name of the blue, it's not exactly that, but close.
For contrast we were gonna do the cylinders in the same orange--or maybe black-- so we could more readily see a leak should one happen. right now the cylinders are the same green as the columns. this is an old Weaver lift.

 

[volaredon]

I'd want it setup and working so I wouldn't be all to worried about looks.

that was my thoughts when my son suggested having it powdercoated, exactly; but since he does the powdercoating at his job, he kinda twisted my arm on the subject. and since we wont be putting it up til the weather warms up, if we are gonna do it, now's the time.

 

[volaredon]

any other thoughts here?

 

[Rsanchez91]

If I may make a cost effective suggestion that is DIY.

You can get the rustoleum emnal paint in a can, and brush or roll on. If you prep properly and take your time you can get a durable long lasting finish that looks great! I've done this on trailers forklifts shop machinery ect.

Also, I get mine from Home Depot, if you get a can of gloss white, the paint department will mix it to a color of your liking!

Just my $0.02
-rich

 

[buildmyown]

Yes they can be powder coated I have done hyd. cylinders for plows. If you were to bring them to me i would want them torn down all the way and some what clean and not dripping with oil. I would then degrease them myself and run them threw the oven to burn off any oil that or crud that was left. I would then plug all holes for fittings and the like to keep sand out of them. Give them a good blast and a final wash with prep sol. All holes would then be plugged again and anything that needed to be masked would get masked.

You do not want to coat the chrome part of the cylinder that needs to stay chrome but you can do the end of it.

 

[volaredon]

Yes they can be powder coated I have done hyd. cylinders for plows. If you were to bring them to me i would want them torn down all the way and some what clean and not dripping with oil. I would then degrease them myself and run them threw the oven to burn off any oil that or crud that was left. I would then plug all holes for fittings and the like to keep sand out of them. Give them a good blast and a final wash with prep sol. All holes would then be plugged again and anything that needed to be masked would get masked.

You do not want to coat the chrome part of the cylinder that needs to stay chrome but you can do the end of it.

thanks; this is what I was hoping to hear/ I do have a solvent tank with fairly fresh/clean solvent,, and again, my son does PC at his work>> and has been bugging me to let him PC as much of this lift as he can, before we put it all up in the home garage I wasn't gonna go for it at 1st; but being as how their booth is large enough that he can even do the columns I figured it didn't make sense "not to" do the cylinders, as long as they are out and gotta be apart anyways.
The kid does this daily, so he may know exactly how to do this already... but what's the best way to protect the threads on the cyl body and gland nut as I do not want any powder in there.... pipe plugs are no problem for the inlet port. I should have those already.

OK now what about the oil reservoir? I want to take it off the motor/pump and dump what oil may be left and clean any sludge/sediment that may be laying in the bottom of it out before I put fresh hyd oil in especially once I rebuild the cylinders as I did not see any sort of filter in the system;
so as long as I have it apart, again dont make sense "not" to;
That though I think I would bead blast here in my bead blast cabinet as their sandblast setup at their work is a lttle "brash," for the lack of another way to put it, for a sheet metal canister.

 

[buildmyown]

There are specific high temp tapered plugs ment for powder coating. He might have them at work if not I can PM you to a site where you can get a nice assortment of sizes for pretty short money. I have also found they come in handy for other things around the garage. I have some large rubber ones i bought at ACE i will put those in shoot the powder then remove before it goes in the oven found out the hard way they wont take the heat.

For the oil reservoir same idea and prep. I have done Harley oil tanks so i dont see any reason why that couldnt be done. Ive always told people if its metal il give it go.

A quick run down of how i prep all parts.
Degrease, anything from a quick wash with hot water and Dawn to a soak in purple power then hot water wash.
Dry off
If needed a pre bake in the oven really depends on the part
Media blast using medium grit black beauty aka coal slag
blow dust off
final wash with prep sol
blow dry with compressed air
mask and plug as need
shoot powder
cure in oven.

 

[helterskelter]

You're not going to get the cylinders hot enough to bother them in an over.

I'd just clean, sand, prime and rattle can it. I'm not sure you would want to have the cylinders in an oven? If you're going to do the rebuild, dissassemble (beadblast) if you can do so without damaging anything. Post some pics. I'd want it setup and working so I wouldn't be all to worried about looks.

 

[volaredon]

You're not going to get the cylinders hot enough to bother them in an over.

so if I rebuild them 1st and reassemble them then PC them "whole" itll be OK? that would be tbe best scenario for keeping powder where it dont belong I'd be worried about the seals baking

 

[jabberwoki]

Cudachick is a Powder coater

 

[helterskelter]

I thought he was worried about the bores moving with the heat. I wouldn't PC with the seals in. PC the bodies after they've been stripped and gritted. Mask prior to grit (to keep grit off threads and out of bores), then remove mask and clean thoroughly then mask off threads/openings in preparation for PC. Bake parts, remove masking, clean again, then reassemble.

so if I rebuild them 1st and reassemble them then PC them "whole" itll be OK? that would be tbe best scenario for keeping powder where it dont belong I'd be worried about the seals baking

 

[volaredon]

Cudachick is a Powder coater

yeah i forgot that.

 

[volaredon]

^^^ BUMP^^^ Calling Cudachick

 

[ryoung]

We have two automated 5 stage PC lines and 2 large batch systems and I would recommend rattle can. The cylinders could be powdercoated no problem, but you would need to completely disassemble them. Most PC facilities have large amounts of silicone masking plugs for stuff like that. We have specialized plugs for threaded fittings and large bores. (also have high temp tape for small area masking)

 

[sabercatt]

just paint the cylinders. there is nothing that wears on them so they should look good practically forever.

 

[volaredon]

We have two automated 5 stage PC lines and 2 large batch systems and I would recommend rattle can. The cylinders could be powdercoated no problem, but you would need to completely disassemble them. Most PC facilities have large amounts of silicone masking plugs for stuff like that. We have specialized plugs for threaded fittings and large bores. (also have high temp tape for small area masking)

and they are coming apart anyway regardless whether I PC them since I need to put a rebuild kit into them anyway

 

[volaredon]

just paint the cylinders. there is nothing that wears on them so they should look good practically forever.

yeah; IF nothing ever springs a leak--- most rattle can stuff doesn't like gas or oil on them.... if a line blows and they get sprayed then the paint will peel.
PC holds up better to that sort of issue/
I did ask about doing exactly as you say earlier in this thread if there is a paint (industrial grade or engine enamel or whatever) that would hold up to this possibility better than regular Rustoleum or Krylon does.... and got no answer.

 

[CudaChick1968]

Cudachick is a Powder coater

yeah i forgot that.

^^^ BUMP^^^ Calling Cudachick

Sorry for the delay in getting here Don. It's "that time of the year" for me ... shop hours are VERY long and computer time is pretty minimal around here until the weather warms up. Thanks for your P.M. head's up on the topic.

It looks like you've gotten some decent advice so far, and in reading your message back to me it seems you're ready to go for it. If you or your son run into last-minute difficulties or some final questions arise, just give me a call and I'll see if I can walk you through it over the phone. I'm always happy to help if I can.

Keep us posted on your progress! Thanks for thinking of me guys ... I'll try to check in more often and not leave ya'll hanging.

 

[volaredon]

COOOL! and Thanks!