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Any quick fix for this Electrical Box problem?

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
:+1: on the suggestion to use a self tapping size 8 screw.
And a definate NO to the idea of using a drywall screw.
If you pierce the insulation you will have worse problems than one loose mounting screw! :shocking:

Also, in case you don't already have it, you should consider GFCI protection not only in the kitchen, but in the bathrooms, your garage, and all outdoor receptacles.

I guarantee my advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

I had assumed that the electrical repairs would be done by a sighted person, who would evaluate the variables such as box fill.
 
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checkthisout

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I would have welded a lag bolt to the box, then secured the outlet in with a bungee and epoxy. If you're going to do it, you might as well do it right.
 

checkthisout

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Check this out, are you saying the self tapping screw was not a proper repair?
If so, why is that?

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

Because it's important that this thread becomes at least 5 pages long.

A self tapping screw is unsafe. The op is lucky the shavings generated during it's installation didn't short out the outlet and cause a blackout of the entire eastern seaboard.
 

Dick in Wisconsin

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thats funny, I'll bet we could.
I didn't know my dad, but my grandfather was a professional union electrician, and could pretty well fix anything, so I don't recall him telling me anything far fetched.

Its not the professionals who give the "farfetched" advice. Its the guys who thing they know everything who are some of the worst.

But then again ... some of that advice is based on actual experiences. A woman who worked for me many years ago was married to a fireman. Because of his experiences putting out garage fires he would never own a home with an attached garage.
 

Dick in Wisconsin

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The actual outlet was loose bc the lower screw securing it to the box was stripped. Not sure what you mean about back stabbing but i think you mean loose/exposed wires touching the metal box. I looked and it did not appear that anything loosened up. I really need someone to show me how to handle light switches and outlets, bc honestly, i don't mess with any electricity because i don't know what I'm doing.

Check out this thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159079&highlight=back+stabbing

There are a number of links that show the difference in the receptacles and explain what is going on.

Make sure you understand the three ways of securing wires to an electrical receptacle. For a long time I didn't. When I discovered "backstabbing", I thought I'd struck oil. But now I realize its the least reliable of the three ways of doing it. I can rarely get the loop the right size (sometimes too big, sometimes too small) to properly get it securely fastened under the screw on the side of the receptacle. Which is why I prefer to "backwire" (insert the wire under a plate on the side of the receptacle and use the screw to tighten the plate against the wire.

The more you read, learn, read, learn, and practice ... the more comfortable you'll be with electrical work. When in doubt, ask questions on the GJF and you'll get have lots of advice.
 
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bubinga

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Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
Because it's important that this thread becomes at least 5 pages long.

A self tapping screw is unsafe. The op is lucky the shavings generated during it's installation didn't short out the outlet and cause a blackout of the entire eastern seaboard.
5 pages long ..........LOL
don't want to get into a Pi$$ing contest, but I really don't think the repair was dangerous.
worst case, turn off the power, put the screw in, and blow the shavings out.
I don't think the shavings generated during it's installation, were/ are large enough to cause any problems. :beer:
But then again, I think you're just being funny!
 
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OP
J

Jsf721

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LI, NY
I did not use a self tapping screw, I used the original screw, I just used a thinned piece of toothpick to tighten it up.

5 pages long ..........LOL
don't want to get into a Pi$$ing contest, but I really don't think the repair was dangerous.
worst case, turn off the power, put the screw in, and blow the shavings out.
I don't think the shavings generated during it's installation, were/ are large enough to cause any problems. :beer:
But then again, I think you're just being funny!
 

tfi racing

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5 pages long ..........LOL
don't want to get into a Pi$$ing contest, but I really don't think the repair was dangerous.
worst case, turn off the power, put the screw in, and blow the shavings out.
I don't think the shavings generated during it's installation, were/ are large enough to cause any problems. :beer:
But then again, I think you're just being funny!

Blow the shavings out? What kind of monster are you? You,a loved one or even a pet (which is the worst crime imaginable and severely punished by social media shaming,a fate worse than death) could ingest those "shavings" and suffer serious injury or die. The removal,transportation and disposal/recycling of metal shavings shall only be carried out by a specially trained unionized disposal team under the strictest environmental controls,specific risk analysis,approved work permit,specialized PPE and vacuuming equipment under supervision of the EPA,OSHA and all relevant AHJ.

Five pages-hah,lets make it ten!:p
 
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Big Daddy Chop Shop

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Hope, Indiana
Sorry, lots of bad advice here, use a 6" self tapping screw and it will secure to the back of the box, and also the dry wall on the other side of the wall. This should hold it until a proper repair involving a welder, a semi load of steel and a bearded woman can be arranged.

Good day sir.
 

bubinga

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OK, Id say enough.
Not everybody knows everything, I thought that was what this group was supposed to be for. For people that know to help someone that don'
t know. :confused:
The guy asks a question because he didn't know,
and it turns into everybody dicking with him.
EDIT
(well, not everybody)

maybe this guy can help us some day.:beer:
 
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Zippercat

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TN
Once you get the box fixed, get one of these:

51unuI7AlwL._SY355_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003P2UMS0/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Plug the toaster/coffee maker/whatever into this little cube, use slide switch on the side of cube to set time (we use 30 min.). When you want to use the appliance, tap the button on the cube. Power comes on for time selected. No more need to unplug every time.
 

Big Daddy Chop Shop

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BongRipper

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Colorado
That plug/timer works well. I use one with a floor dryer in my garage during the winter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Shiftless

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Mar 9, 2014
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East Bay SFO
For everybody who worries about switch failures, isn't this gadget just one more switch that has a possibility of failing?

I can see it being used for an appliance that you want to turn on manually but want it to time off on its own. Like putting a timer switch on a bathroom exhaust fan. (I put those in both bathrooms here)
 
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checkthisout

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Once you get the box fixed, get one of these:

51unuI7AlwL._SY355_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003P2UMS0/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Plug the toaster/coffee maker/whatever into this little cube, use slide switch on the side of cube to set time (we use 30 min.). When you want to use the appliance, tap the button on the cube. Power comes on for time selected. No more need to unplug every time.

That cheap Chinese cube is an appliance in and of itself and presents more of a fire hazard than any appliance I can think of.
 

sberry

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I have a timer on one of the counters in my office for the coffee pot. It's off as soon as it's brewed.
Things that are turned off not such problem, stuff that run automatic is more of an issue. If a toaster is off, a micro off doesn't start on its own. Most problems are failure to shut down or start properly.
 
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tfi racing

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Cedar,BC
Not yet,need more stellar insight on how that little cube is going to ravage our cities and decimate all that is living in North america!
 
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