Any subaru owners here?

[ls1dreams]

My 2005 Legacy GT is getting a bit old and needs some work. I'd like to learn to do more maintenance on my own.

What tools might I need for the following?

1. Changing brakes
2. Changing spark plugs
3. Changing serpentine belt
4. Possibly installing a sway bar (for a sporty car this thing has crappy body roll)

For tools I currently have a 3/8" ratchet, a near complete set of metric+SAE deep sockets (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LQB4RG/?tag=atomicindus08-20), and a bunch of screwdrivers.

I don't have any wrenches yet, so I'll probably pick up some cheap craftsman combination wrenches when I see a deal.

I assume I'll need some shallow sockets to work in tight spaces? And probably either a universal joint or flex-head ratchet to get in those weird spots?

 

[FriendOfYours]

Go to Harbor Freight (good stuff coming) and get deep and short sockets for 1/4" and 1/2" drive.

Get all 3 drive sizes in the black composite ratchets

Get the impact extensions for 3/8" drive

Get the impact torx and hex sets

Get the 1/2" impact socket set

Get a 1/2" breaker bar and click torque wrench

These are actually good tools from HF. I have two techs set up just like this and beat the heck out of the tools day in day out. Not a socket broken in a year+

Craftsman RP wrenches from Sears are fine and cheap

This should keep you busy and should cost you about $150

 

[Skin]

Your car, like most, has a front and rear sway bar. Its very possible the links are trashed though. I hate to be one of those people but the easiest way to explain how to check them is to just youtube or google it then you can hopefully get a visual of what you're looking at as well.

Sizes that hold most Japanese vehicles together are
7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19

Serp belt, draw a picture of how its routed before you take it off.

Spark plugs can be a little bit of a pain because the cylinders are flat. Having a universal just incase wouldn't be the worst idea. The size of the plugs will be 5/8". For replacement plugs consult your vehicle manual. It should tell you exactly what to purchase. They'll be either Denso or NGK.

Go slow, do things in stages and give yourself plenty of time. Take pictures, use white out or a grease pencil to mark things if needed (how and where wires are mounted for example).

One last word of advice, original Subaru parts is the way to go always. You know its correct and you're replacing parts you just got 8 years out of. Don't be suckered into the "better" aftermarket crowd as you can all too easily end up with inferior parts.

Don't forget your engine and cabin filter.

 

[Mr_Snips]

Ok here...swaybar bushings are probably shot...talk to kartboy (http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/)

spark plugs are a pita might have to take out the windshield fluid reservoir but not hard just time consuming.

And brakes just depends what you want to do but generally they are identical to every other car with disc brakes ever made.

 

[Subyroo651]

Just adding in:

Various length extensions and a flex head ratchet will be a must for the plugs. I've done them on a 2.5. Mostly standard tools around the Suby, its not too bad, nothing like a Euro car. You will see 16mm stuff as well.

 

[mattmankow]

Go to Harbor Freight (good stuff coming) and get deep and short sockets for 1/4" and 1/2" drive.

Get all 3 drive sizes in the black composite ratchets

Get the impact extensions for 3/8" drive

Get the impact torx and hex sets

Get the 1/2" impact socket set

Get a 1/2" breaker bar and click torque wrench

These are actually good tools from HF. I have two techs set up just like this and beat the heck out of the tools day in day out. Not a socket broken in a year+

Craftsman RP wrenches from Sears are fine and cheap

This should keep you busy and should cost you about $150

With recommending the HF junk, he's no friend of mine!
Seriously, on a Subie skip the torx and allen. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have, but unnecessary on these cars. Why the composite ratchets? Just get the best Craftsman set you can afford and complete with what you run into needing from there.
On the plugs... you may have to get creative to get in there to get them out and back in. Here a locking 4-6" 3/8 drive extension comes in handy, along with an impact swivel in 3/8. Impact swivels are much better in tight spots.
This should be enough to get you started.

 

[JJThrasher]

Nobody mentioned a piston compressor for the brake job or a c clamp can work if you have one.

Go to HF and grab the 1/2" ratchet with extending handle and a set of 1/2" metric impact sockets. Grab s set of impact extensions while you're there.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[ls1dreams]

Your car, like most, has a front and rear sway bar. Its very possible the links are trashed though. I hate to be one of those people but the easiest way to explain how to check them is to just youtube or google it then you can hopefully get a visual of what you're looking at as well.

Sizes that hold most Japanese vehicles together are
7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19

Serp belt, draw a picture of how its routed before you take it off.

Spark plugs can be a little bit of a pain because the cylinders are flat. Having a universal just incase wouldn't be the worst idea. The size of the plugs will be 5/8". For replacement plugs consult your vehicle manual. It should tell you exactly what to purchase. They'll be either Denso or NGK.

Go slow, do things in stages and give yourself plenty of time. Take pictures, use white out or a grease pencil to mark things if needed (how and where wires are mounted for example).

One last word of advice, original Subaru parts is the way to go always. You know its correct and you're replacing parts you just got 8 years out of. Don't be suckered into the "better" aftermarket crowd as you can all too easily end up with inferior parts.

Don't forget your engine and cabin filter.

Thanks - all good advice. I've done the brakes before with a friend and they were fairly easy.

Another subaru guy told me the serpentine belt is actually pretty easy and is going to walk me through it this week.

As for the spark plugs, I'm told that's kind of a nightmare on the ones farthest from you. Might try to get some help there.

My passenger side CJ joint/axle needs replacing, but that's a messy difficult one I'll leave to a professional.

I've already replaced the intake air box, but on my model year the cabin airbox is a PITA to get to. Requires disassembling half of the dashboard. They fixed that in the '06's. I'm debating if it's worth the effort.

 

[rlitman]

Serpentine belt on a 2005? I've seen serpentine belts on really new Subaru's, but not on a 2005, but maybe I'm wrong about yours.
On most I've seen, there is a wider belt on the alternator/power-steering, and a narrower belt on the A/C compressor. Both are pretty simple, but you want to spray a little penetrating oil on the tensioners because there a plastic part in there (unless your A/C belt does not have a tensioner, in which case it is a stretch belt, and requires a special tool to install) that can break easily.

Spark plugs are not that bad. You'll want an assortment of short socket extensions. See if you can get a 2", 3", and 4" extension, and stack them in a way that lets you get to the plug. The washer fluid reservoir comes out with 2 screws, and with that out of the way, the plugs are easy to get to.

The driver's CV joint is easier to remove than the passenger's because the roll pin on the passenger side is kind of behind the exhaust. I've changed both in my Subaru, but this isn't a job for a novice (and it absolutely requires a torque wrench).

 

[pfctblu]

I had a H6 outback and a legacy sedan prior, but the only tools in my box I consider Subaru oriented would be the Gearwrench Roto-Ratchets (for plugs), a 24in flex breaker bar, and wobble & swivel extensions have proven very useful. A good hook & pick set for popping off the engine underside panel helps.
The advice on going OEM for parts is good but I will add one exception: wheel bearings. These cars have a known issue of eating wheel bearings. I went Timken and haven't had any issues since.

 

[bannerd]

I've been working on subarus for years. I have taken engines out by using only this socket set;

SK 3/8

There is some specialty tools that you will need if you get into engine work. Seal picks or pullers. If you're going to be doing a timing belt then the above will do the job. If you need to be taking off the cam gears then you will need some special tools.

The one thing you will want to look into is a torque wrench. Subaru torques everything to a exact preference. Other than that I would use OEM for certain things. Suspenion and other parts I would lean to the aftermarket. whiteline and kartboy are good products. I replaced several customer cars with KONI inserts and I wish I never did that because they haven't had suspension issues in twelve years. timing belt needs to be changed every 100,000 miles. You can check the timing belt and it might look great but you will not be able to see the hydraulic tensioner. Subaru recommends that you change these out as well as all the idle bears and a new timing belt of course. The seals get a little dry and leak causing the belt to jump teeth and since this is a interference engine.. it will grenade. I use a lot of cosworth and tomei products for engine builds. I love both.

Yeah, the SK tool kit will be able to take anything apart for you. With the swivel adapter.. spark plugs come out rather easy They are a pain to get out of the back though, goodluck with it.

 

[firebox40dash5]

Pretty much what Skin said, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21mm, in a variety of forms. When I grab tools to work on mine, it's 1/4 and 3/8 sockets, 17-21mm in 1/2 drive, locking flex ratchets, and flex ratchet wrenches. IIRC a 3" extension is the ticket for plugs, probably have to feed the socket and extension in separately. Not a whole lot on a Subie you can't handle with those tools. Oh, front calipers are 2 piston and rears are single piston that don't need tp be spun in, you could use a clamp or channel lock pliers on a brake pad for a DIY if you don't want to buy a piston retractor.

Oh, speaking of belts, don't forget to loosen the idler/tensioner pulley BEFORE loosening the tensioner, or you WILL break the little plastic piece.

 

[ls1dreams]

I'll also mention that I'm in NoVA/DC area if anyone wants to help me work on the subaru or loan me tools / let me use your garage. I'm stuck with street parking near my apartment =/

 

[rlitman]

The idlers will fail before the belt. The end result is just as catastrophic.
If you have the two belts I described, then your water pump is turned by the timing belt. Same issue with that as the idlers. Change the water pump (unless you have the serpentine that turns the water pump) with the idlers, AND the tensioner when you change the timing belt. Changing the cam and crank shaft seals is a good idea too, but that requires removing the cam pulleys which is difficult.

Oh, speaking of belts, don't forget to loosen the idler/tensioner pulley BEFORE loosening the tensioner, or you WILL break the little plastic piece.

My plastic piece broke because of the rust on the threaded rod.

 

[Skin]

Thanks - all good advice. I've done the brakes before with a friend and they were fairly easy.

Yep not bad at all. Hopefully he taught you to open the bleeder to push the piston back in instead of just forcing it in with a clamp or pair of pump pliers. This does two things that are bad, the first is it forces fluid/gunk back into the master which isn't the best thing for the seals. The second thing it does is makes you fight the pressure so you have to move quickly to slap the pads in and get it back together before the caliper piston pushes back out too far. Also if you've been topping off your fluid as the pads wear you'll find the master overfilled. Always crack the bleeder to compress the piston. If you're doing it the correct way have a new bottle of fluid and use it all up during the bleeding process so you'll have done a fairly decent job of replacing the break fluid as well. Do not let the master get low or you'll have to bleed the whole system again.

My passenger side CJ joint/axle needs replacing, but that's a messy difficult one I'll leave to a professional.

CV joints rarely fail unless the boot has been left torn open for an extended period of time. Are the boots actually torn and do you hear clicking while turning? If they really are gone, just to re-iterate, get Subaru axels. In my experience aftermarket remanufactured axles are garbage.

 

[ls1dreams]

CV joints rarely fail unless the boot has been left torn open for an extended period of time. Are the boots actually torn and do you hear clicking while turning? If they really are gone, just to re-iterate, get Subaru axels. In my experience aftermarket remanufactured axles are garbage.

I recently took my legacy in for a safety recall, and they said that the passenger side axle was covered in grease, apparently from a torn CV joint.

The legacyGT/Nasioc forms seem to indicate that this is VERY common on the passenger side because the CV joint is so close to the up-pipe.

I don't notice any clicking when turning yet, though.

 

[Craptain]

CV joints rarely fail unless the boot has been left torn open for an extended period of time. Are the boots actually torn and do you hear clicking while turning? If they really are gone, just to re-iterate, get Subaru axels. In my experience aftermarket remanufactured axles are garbage.

I have that job to do on mine. Or rather have it done. Also got an oil leaks and need the head gaskets replaced. Mine is a 2000 outback. I will get her done as I really like her.

 

[rlitman]

If the oil leak is from the rear, that's a big job. I'm planning on tackling that when I do my clutch/transmission.
There is a cover to the crankcase under the bellhousing called the oil separator plate that was made of plastic in 2000 (and some other years) that cracks, and there is also an o-ring in the rear that fails. Thankfully, the rear main seal is supposed to outlast the engine.

 

[Kent_B]

"Seriously, on a Subie skip the torx and allen" Not necessarily so....
Should you wish to change the front & rear diff. fluid (assuming yours is an automatic) you'll need a Torx T-70 in 1/2" drive. On the rear diff., loosen the upper plug first. That way you'll be sure you're able to get the stuff back in once you take it out.

Subarus are fun to work on.

 

[rlitman]

Depends on the year. My diff's use a 13mm square plug.

The advice on loosening the filler cap before opening the drain is very good!

 

[Loscaldazar]

For the front brakes, it will take an 18MM wrench and a 14MM wrench/socket to get the front caliper away from the slide bracket to change the pads. The rear caliper I believe is just a 12 or 14MM bolt that a socket can be used on. Centric premium blank rotors and pads seems to be the choice for a nice street set up (and even light track duty).

For the spark plug get a 5/8in spark plug socket with a BUILT IN extension. Or get a different spark plug socket and tape the extension in so it doesn't fall off. NGK is a good brand for Subaru and cheap and readily available.

Serpentine belts need a 12MM sockets and a 10MM to take off the belt shroud. A 12MM flex ratchet of midlength socket (or a 12MM socket and a VERY short extension) are need for the lower belt.

Rear sway bar requires a 12MM socket and then I believe 14MM for the endlinks. Replace the endlinks with Kartboy endlinks (he has sold nearly 20,000 pairs and not had a single failure, even with some heavy duty track cars). Use a vise grips to hold the endlink stud from spinning, and then a wrench or socket on the other end to remove them.

@rlitman

Actually it was 1996/7 that the rear seperator plate was made out of plastic. They fixed that one quickly. It probably is a torn CV boot, not from the engine. The car is 8-9 years old, so it isn't uncommon to have a boot fail when the car is close to a decade old. The rear main seal also is the O ring, but yes, are stupidly reliable.

On Subaru transmission 2004+ they use a T70 Torx bit which is almost never in a torx set and almost always has to be bought individually. So if ls has a 5 speed auto, then he will need it. Can't think of a torx anywhere else on them (actually older subarus with a pull out antennae, the antennae is held in with torx screws...). The auto's have a front differential with separate fluid from the transmission (manual transmission have both the front diff and the ****** sharing the same fluid) and use a t70 torx often.

Rear diff universally uses a 13MM square plug. Finding one of those is hard, but these guys have them for sale. You can get by with using the end of a 1/2drive ratchet, but you are very likely to strip out the plug. Always loosen the top (filling) plug first, so you can get fluid in, rather than drain it first, and find you can't get the filling plug out to fill it....

Need more info, just let me know. I can walk people through almost any job on a Subaru.

 

[Subyroo651]

Depends on the year. My diff's use a 13mm square plug.

The advice on loosening the filler cap before opening the drain is very good!

Yes, some use 17mm reg hex bolts as well. My 09 Legacy had that.

So it could be 13mm internal square or 17mm reg bolt but it requires a deep offset wrench for the top.

Never seen T-70 Torx but on the front diff only.

 

[wafrederick]

The axle,it may not come out called stuck in the hub and the Japanese cars are well known for having this problem.I have encountered this a few times.The crank pulley requires a special wrench when removing the crank pulley bolt.Don't have to buy it,you make your own.Requires a piece of flat steel stock and round stock.I know someone that made his own and it works.

 

[Skin]

I recently took my legacy in for a safety recall, and they said that the passenger side axle was covered in grease, apparently from a torn CV joint.

The legacyGT/Nasioc forms seem to indicate that this is VERY common on the passenger side because the CV joint is so close to the up-pipe.

I don't notice any clicking when turning yet, though.

Save yourself a lot of money and buy a boot kit. If memory serves Subaru doesn't actually make "kits" so you need to buy the boot and bands + grease individually but if it isn't making noise i'd have zero issues doing that repair. It takes a lot of abuse to actually destroy a CV joint. They make noise for a long time before they fail.

I have that job to do on mine. Or rather have it done. Also got an oil leaks and need the head gaskets replaced. Mine is a 2000 outback. I will get her done as I really like her.

Head gasket failures are pretty common. I think its easier to just pull the engine than it is to do that job in the car. If you find a shop that does remove the engine, and unless its literally just been done you may as well have them do the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner while its out. It wont be any easier than doing it then.

 

[wafrederick]

Don't use the cheap headgaskets either and buy new headbolts.Don't even try reusing the old headbolts over again,not recomended using the headbolts over again.The factory headgaskets are made by Fel Pro and buy the headset instead of buying the gaskets seperatly.

 

[scarney1988]

A chain wrench can be handy when tightening your crank bolt.

A 24"ish breaker bar can make 'starter bumping' your crank bolt off easier.

Metric tools help.

T30 will help get your exterior door handle off.

clip/plastic pushpin removal will help get splashshields and bumpers off.

10mm is a must

10,12.14.17.19mm are something to have in all available sizes.

 

[kippieland]

Use this site for any questions:

http://www.alldatadiy.com

I have an outback sport and have done the breaks and the spark plugs. Brakes are fairly easy. Like everyone one else stated the plugs are bit of a *****. Not hard to do just time consuming. You have to remove everything around the sides. Haven't done a belt yet but looks a lot easier then the side facing engines in my Nissan. Good luck.

 

[Craptain]

Sorry ls1dreams I didn't mean to hijack the thread. I hope the info will be useful to you and others.

Head gasket failures are pretty common. I think its easier to just pull the engine than it is to do that job in the car. If you find a shop that does remove the engine, and unless its literally just been done you may as well have them do the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner while its out. It wont be any easier than doing it then.

Yes I found that out about the head gaskets from the Subaru Forum. And the shop that is doing the work does pull the engine. The timing belt et al was done 30k ago at about 105k, so I am good with that.

Don't use the cheap headgaskets either and buy new headbolts. Don't even try reusing the old headbolts over again,not recomended using the headbolts over again.The factory headgaskets are made by Fel Pro and buy the headset instead of buying the gaskets seperatly.

I know they are using Subaru gaskets I will ask about (ensure) they do the bolts also. Thanks for the tip.

 

[ls1dreams]

I'm a little torn on which maintenance matters I should do now and which I should wait.

Why? The car is a 2005 (8 years old), but it only has 42,000 miles on it.

I feel like anything rubber or plastic is probably getting worn, even if they don't have that many miles on them.

I'm not sure about things like spark plugs, idlers, etc.

 

[Kent_B]

"Never seen T-70 Torx but on the front diff only. "
Subyroo, I think you're correct. My bad.

 

[Loscaldazar]

I'm a little torn on which maintenance matters I should do now and which I should wait.

Why? The car is a 2005 (8 years old), but it only has 42,000 miles on it.

I feel like anything rubber or plastic is probably getting worn, even if they don't have that many miles on them.

I'm not sure about things like spark plugs, idlers, etc.

What have you done on the car so far (whether dealership or you)?

Timing belt should be done every 105,000 miles (or 105 months=8.75 years). Do the belt, all idlers and tensioners, water pump, reseal the oil pump (really, it takes 30 minutes to do, and might as well do it now when everything is apart rather than having to dig in another 50,000 miles down the road to do it), and I like to do cam and crank seals too (for the same reason as the oil pump, the seals all together are like $25-30 and a few minutes each). $225 for parts (if you call Jackie at annapolis subaru, and mention you are from subaruforester.org, she can give you a great discount and good price on shipping!).

Other than that, if the spark plugs were replaced at the 30,000 mile service, I wouldn't be worried about them yet.

Engine air filter probably should be done (even if it was done at the 30,000 miles maintenance) and if you have the fuel filter in the engine bay (should be a silver/black canister in front of the brake booster/master cylinder, ie where the brake pedal connects to in the engine bay if you don't know what those are!) that should be done too. If it is the in tank filter (absence of a filter in the engine bay), then it doesn't have to be done. $30 for the both filters.

Never a bad idea to change the coolant when you are getting close to 9/10 years. You have a pressured coolant expansion tank, so look up a guide on how to burp it of air properly (it can be tricky/time consuming). $20 for a container of coolant that you then have to mix with RO or de-ionized water (not tap or hose water!!!). Should use about half the container (then a 50/50 mix with water).

Do you have a manual or auto? If auto the transmission fluid is probably fine. With a manual I'd change both the transmission and rear diff fluid. Use a 75w90 gear oil with NO LIMITED SLIP MODIFIERS (NON LS). If your local dealership sells Subaru Extra-S gear oil by the quart, get that stuff (many won't, but you can buy a 5 gallon pail of it if you feel inclined). Otherwise Eneos is OK, but if you can get Motul 300, you are set (best option)! The 5 speed manuals are pesky about oil. Transmission takes 3.5 quarts, and the rear diff (non limited slip oil again, even if you have a limited slip rear differential, because it is a sealed unit, so the fluid you put in doesn't actually reach the LSD unit, so NON LS again) takes about a quart. $35-$100 depending on oil used.

Do that and you are good I think!

 

[firebox40dash5]

What have you done on the car so far (whether dealership or you)?

Timing belt should be done every 105,000 miles (or 105 months=8.75 years). Do the belt, all idlers and tensioners, water pump, reseal the oil pump (really, it takes 30 minutes to do, and might as well do it now when everything is apart rather than having to dig in another 50,000 miles down the road to do it), and I like to do cam and crank seals too (for the same reason as the oil pump, the seals all together are like $25-30 and a few minutes each). $225 for parts (if you call Jackie at annapolis subaru, and mention you are from subaruforester.org, she can give you a great discount and good price on shipping!).

Other than that, if the spark plugs were replaced at the 30,000 mile service, I wouldn't be worried about them yet.

Engine air filter probably should be done (even if it was done at the 30,000 miles maintenance) and if you have the fuel filter in the engine bay (should be a silver/black canister in front of the brake booster/master cylinder, ie where the brake pedal connects to in the engine bay if you don't know what those are!) that should be done too. If it is the in tank filter (absence of a filter in the engine bay), then it doesn't have to be done. $30 for the both filters.

Never a bad idea to change the coolant when you are getting close to 9/10 years. You have a pressured coolant expansion tank, so look up a guide on how to burp it of air properly (it can be tricky/time consuming). $20 for a container of coolant that you then have to mix with RO or de-ionized water (not tap or hose water!!!). Should use about half the container (then a 50/50 mix with water).

Do you have a manual or auto? If auto the transmission fluid is probably fine. With a manual I'd change both the transmission and rear diff fluid. Use a 75w90 gear oil with NO LIMITED SLIP MODIFIERS (NON LS). If your local dealership sells Subaru Extra-S gear oil by the quart, get that stuff (many won't, but you can buy a 5 gallon pail of it if you feel inclined). Otherwise Eneos is OK, but if you can get Motul 300, you are set (best option)! The 5 speed manuals are pesky about oil. Transmission takes 3.5 quarts, and the rear diff (non limited slip oil again, even if you have a limited slip rear differential, because it is a sealed unit, so the fluid you put in doesn't actually reach the LSD unit, so NON LS again) takes about a quart. $35-$100 depending on oil used.

Do that and you are good I think!

Most likely no real need to do the timing belt right now, with only 40k on it, even at 8 years. Even DIY it adds up, especially when doing the laundry list of other "might as well"s in there. I haven't seen or heard of one snapping in so few miles, even pushing a decade old. Hell, we have a '99 Civic at the shop that popped the original belt this year... with 180k on it. No harm if you want to change it though, and it's really pretty damn easy, and sorta fun.

External fuel filters unfortunately went away somewhere around '03, I know my '04 Legacy lacks one. As for coolant, I'd recommend using one of the Asian-specifics, like Zerex's or Pahnol... I know the '05+ EJs have a much better rep for head gaskets than before, but better safe than sorry. And I would definitely change the coolant at this age along those same lines, but then I tend to change all the fluids when I buy a car so I know the right fluid is in it and when it was done. A bottle of Subaru's fancy version of Bar's Leak (aka "coolant conditioner") can't hurt either, like $4 at the dealer... and amazingly quelled the externally seeping HG on my car. AFAIK only turbos have the pressurized overflow system, but either way, buy a Lisle radiator funnel, I have no idea how I went so long without one of those!

Gear oil is a touchy subject, but my opinion on the manuals is to use a GL-4 like Redline's. I've run non-LSD GL-5 in my WRX and my Tacoma, and both were strange and notchy feeling compared to GL-4, and supposedly GL-5 has (IIRC) more sulfur, which is no bueno for the synchros. If you've got an auto, it's just diff oil, so no worries... just don't be the guy that drains his front diff and adds 4 quarts of ATF to the trans, and is then confused when both are ruined.

 

[ls1dreams]

What have you done on the car so far (whether dealership or you)?

Timing belt should be done every 105,000 miles (or 105 months=8.75 years). Do the belt, all idlers and tensioners, water pump, reseal the oil pump (really, it takes 30 minutes to do, and might as well do it now when everything is apart rather than having to dig in another 50,000 miles down the road to do it), and I like to do cam and crank seals too (for the same reason as the oil pump, the seals all together are like $25-30 and a few minutes each). $225 for parts (if you call Jackie at annapolis subaru, and mention you are from subaruforester.org, she can give you a great discount and good price on shipping!).

Other than that, if the spark plugs were replaced at the 30,000 mile service, I wouldn't be worried about them yet.

Engine air filter probably should be done (even if it was done at the 30,000 miles maintenance) and if you have the fuel filter in the engine bay (should be a silver/black canister in front of the brake booster/master cylinder, ie where the brake pedal connects to in the engine bay if you don't know what those are!) that should be done too. If it is the in tank filter (absence of a filter in the engine bay), then it doesn't have to be done. $30 for the both filters.

Never a bad idea to change the coolant when you are getting close to 9/10 years. You have a pressured coolant expansion tank, so look up a guide on how to burp it of air properly (it can be tricky/time consuming). $20 for a container of coolant that you then have to mix with RO or de-ionized water (not tap or hose water!!!). Should use about half the container (then a 50/50 mix with water).

Do you have a manual or auto? If auto the transmission fluid is probably fine. With a manual I'd change both the transmission and rear diff fluid. Use a 75w90 gear oil with NO LIMITED SLIP MODIFIERS (NON LS). If your local dealership sells Subaru Extra-S gear oil by the quart, get that stuff (many won't, but you can buy a 5 gallon pail of it if you feel inclined). Otherwise Eneos is OK, but if you can get Motul 300, you are set (best option)! The 5 speed manuals are pesky about oil. Transmission takes 3.5 quarts, and the rear diff (non limited slip oil again, even if you have a limited slip rear differential, because it is a sealed unit, so the fluid you put in doesn't actually reach the LSD unit, so NON LS again) takes about a quart. $35-$100 depending on oil used.

Do that and you are good I think!

I did the following at around 31k when I bought the car:
* all fluid flushes (auto trans, brake fluid, oil change). Spark plugs were NOT done, because it wasn't recommended for the 30k.

I just did the engine air filter recently (maybe 40k), but not the cabin air filter.

Basically, the main things I'm debating if I should do or not since I'm only at 42,000 miles: spark plugs and belts. Does an 8-year old vehicle with low miles need these changed? For the belts I assume yes since rubber gets stiff with time and cracks. For the spark plugs I'm not sure.

It's also worth noting that I may have to sell the car soon, so I'm trying to keep costs down to a minimum and just put in the preventative maintenance to keep me on the road. Right now that means front brakes, belts, and the torn CV joint I think.

 

[Skin]

What kills rubber is actually extreme heat/cold and sunlight. Age less so. Most timing belt failures are due to trashed idlers or tensioners. If it were my car i'd wait until ~10 years or some sign of distress like a squeaky idler before i'd plunk down the money for that job (its not cheap) but that's me.

Honestly if you're just looking to tidy it up for a sale, just chase the pertinent issues like the cv boot and new brakes are always a plus. If its in good clean condition and priced fairly you'll have tons of interest on a 7 year old Subaru with only 42k regardless of what maintenance items you do to the engine. Anything you actually did do would merely be a bonus for the buyer.

 

[rlitman]

Never a bad idea to change the coolant when you are getting close to 9/10 years. You have a pressured coolant expansion tank, so look up a guide on how to burp it of air properly (it can be tricky/time consuming). $20 for a container of coolant that you then have to mix with RO or de-ionized water (not tap or hose water!!!). Should use about half the container (then a 50/50 mix with water).

If the water pump is turned by the timing belt, then you would drain the coolant when you replace the water pump.

On that note, you should change the thermostat with the water pump. Be sure to get a thermostat with a "jiggle pin". A lot of parts stores will look your car up at the counter, and give you one without it, and that is the source of many burping problems.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I did the following at around 31k when I bought the car:
* all fluid flushes (auto trans, brake fluid, oil change). Spark plugs were NOT done, because it wasn't recommended for the 30k.

I just did the engine air filter recently (maybe 40k), but not the cabin air filter.

Basically, the main things I'm debating if I should do or not since I'm only at 42,000 miles: spark plugs and belts. Does an 8-year old vehicle with low miles need these changed? For the belts I assume yes since rubber gets stiff with time and cracks. For the spark plugs I'm not sure.

It's also worth noting that I may have to sell the car soon, so I'm trying to keep costs down to a minimum and just put in the preventative maintenance to keep me on the road. Right now that means front brakes, belts, and the torn CV joint I think.

You talking drive belts, or timing belt? If you're selling I wouldn't waste my money on the timing belt, no one is going to care that you did it at 1/2 the recommended interval. Drive belts, if they're showing signs of wear (cracks, chunking...) replace 'em. I replaced both on an '09 Legacy yesterday, took all of 15 minutes. Loosen alternator tension bolt, pivot bolt and tension, loosen AC idler bolt and tension, swap belts and retighten/retension... done.

Pretty sure the plugs are going to be platinum or iridium, so probably not really due until close to 100k. If they're giving you a reason, swap 'em, if not roll with it. Is yours coil on plug, or the 4-post coil pack on top with wires? My WRX was coil on plug, and the left rear cylinder was a royal PITA to get the coil in and out, but that's an Impreza, Legacy might have more room. edit: OK, Alldata has them on 30k intervals... oops. I like some NGK Laser Iridiums, they're usually reasonably priced on Amazon, Napa usually has a decent price (for my account anyway) too.

 

[rlitman]

The car is distributorless, so unless you go with double platinum (which causes other issues), either stick to an NGK copper, or an NGK iridium.

Copper gets replaced at 30k. Iridium performs no better, but lasts over 100k.

 

[scrappy600]

I used to be. Sadly I am not any more ;-(

 

[rlitman]

Nice. I have a 2000 2.5RS. Same body and wing, but in SRP with the factory 6 spoke wheels and factory foglamps. Which one is that? The pink badge and foglight covers scream 22B, but the wing says RS.

 

[scrappy600]

It's the sti type r, jap spec import. It was sold in the e.u as the p1. Full intercooler water spray, dccd, etc. I got it with a new bottom end which was good as they really don't like the **** low octane fuel we have over here and usually lunch the bottom end if not looked after because of the fuel here. Was a beautiful car but I have no confidence in the engines at all. Should have got the euro model as they were designed to run on our fuel but the price would have been almost double that of an imported one.