Basically gotta just remove this screw. The top sheared off. There's not enough sticking out that I can just screw it out with pliers, unfortunately (my luck). Any ideas? Thanks guys.
Any suggestions for removing this broken screw?
- Thread starter plshelpme
- Start date
Get a nut that just fits over the broken bolt. Weld the inside of the nut to the broken off bolt. Then try a socket on the nut. If that is not an option. Your only other bet would be some kind of easy out tool. Or try to drill the bolt out and retap the threads.
welderjosh
Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2008
- Messages
- 18
Build it up with a little weld before you weld the nut on it. The heat from the welding will help unstick it also.
like2wheel
Well-known member
Thats a cool idea, I think I've heard of that somewhere else as well. Only problem is, I have no soldering equipment. I'm not sure how much that'd cost either. If it's cheap (doubt it) I can do it. Don't wanna sink too much money into this project!
619DioFan
Well-known member
For that I would drill it and use an easy out. probably the cheapest way.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Do you have an air powered scribe pen? They work extremely well to remove broken bolts an screws sich as that.
Bighead38
Well-known member
What is that in? I think I would try one of the removal drill bits first.
cdestuck
Well-known member
Buy a small set of left twist drill bits and see if drilling it helps pull it out. If not, tap a ez out into hole and see if that pulls it out
frankthezapper
Well-known member
Sounds to me that you are fairly new at this game, I suggest trying the simplest ways first. IF the bolt is accessible from the back side, cut a slot with a hacksaw and screw out with a screwdriver. IF, as I imagine, the bolt is in a blind hole, try driving it out with a hammer and centre punch or cold chisel, hitting as far radially on the bolt as possible (to get drive), but not so far radially as to interfere with the parent material. IF it's a steel bolt in an aluminium casting, there was a report on here recently of someone dissolving the bot with a chemical whose name I just can't remember now,...was it a solution of alum or baking soda, I know it wasn't caustic soda (because that's what we used to dissolve the seized on piston material in cast iron cylinder liners of motor bikes in the 70's) If it's in timber I don't know.
frankthezapper
Well-known member
Ah, now I went back and looked at the pictures!! Just today I bought a set of screw removal tools at Aldi (world's best supermarket) a tapered LH thread with flutes cut in. Drill a pilot hole with your normal RH drill bit, insert the removal tool and drive with your drill in reverse. (Having crossed your fingers and incanted to nearly all deities.)
dsgreen3
Well-known member
Hammer and center punch is what I do at work all the time with these.
flat tire
Well-known member
I have had good luck with these
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
If you don't have a welder, drill it out (LH is preferable if you have them or have time to buy them), and if it doesn't come out then use an easy-out... If it is still stubborn keep drilling larger until you are just under the size of the OD threads and one way or another it should finally be free. Might have to clean up the threads some with a tap...
rburke65
Well-known member
Not soldering......WELDING ! Big difference.
like2wheel
Well-known member
matt_i
Well-known member
The pen works great as long as the bolt broke via overtorque when tightened or undertorqued/loose and isn't frozen by corrosion.
dadsEH
Well-known member
Marctrees
Well-known member
Yup.... Guys.... OP has like "moved" this to a new thread.....
New guy not familiar w forum I guess...
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=365672
Marc
New guy not familiar w forum I guess...
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=365672
Marc
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