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Anyone ever removed a toilet before?

impactims

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My toilet just started leaking at the base. Time for a new wax ring. Never done this particular task before but it looks simple.

So I remove the decorative caps that cover the stud and nut that hold the toilet in place. No nuts are there.

What is this and how does it come apart?

IMG_0323.jpegIMG_0322.jpeg
 
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signcrafter

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Those are the T bolts that are supposed to be in the flange. Not sure why they are installed like that. I would try using a channel locks to unscrew them and see what happens. Or just carefully grind the heads off and lift toilet up. Be warned, you are most likely heading into a job that will be more then just installing a new wax ring and screwing toilet back down.
 
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impactims

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T bolts? What I have on top to work with is velcro or a velcro like material.

So below the velcro and above the plastic washer is a t bolt that I can just grab with pliers?
 

CoogarXR

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Never seen bolts installed upside down like that. Who knows what other interesting solutions you'll find under there...

Is the flange visible from below (like a basement)? Maybe they put the nuts on the bottom.
 

AEAdam

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So what am I likely up against here?
Skip the plumber and call a realtor!

Sorry. Did the toilet rock?

Don’t let us throw you. You got this!

I’m the king of mission creep. If it were me (when it was me) it would be new toilet, probably bidet seat and a long hard look at replacing the floor. If it’s been leaking for long, there may be rot in the subfloor.

We had a burner go bad on our electric cook top. Stove was obsolete, non std size so I gutted the kitchen! My wife sees no humor in this story.
 
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impactims

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I see the end of a screw from below.

Is this is what is on the other end of the fastener?

IMG_0326.png
 

AEAdam

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No that’s probably attaching the flange to the subfloor

Honestly (or don’t listen to me because I’m the king of mission creep) find out where you can cut that cast iron, rip all that out and do it right. You’ll be better off and it will actually be easier.
 

Rabid Badger

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Somebody was confused about how the flange works, but it looks like worst case you'll need a new flange and wax ring. Just grab the T bolts with pliers as recommended earlier.
 

Shiftless

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Those screws couldn’t have heads shaped like those big ovals in your first pic. Those screws might be holding down the underlayment and or the flange to the subfloor boards or seen from underneath.

Grab and twist like already suggested. Might need vise grips.
 

Rabid Badger

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Yup here we go. That doesn’t look like a toilet flange to me. I’d be ripping out that cast iron and replacing it with pvc. You can cut it with a sawzall. Use a rubber boot splice. But don’t bury it somewhere.
Depending on the era the house was built, that might be lead.
 
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impactims

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So in theory I could just lift the toilet out, clean up the wax ring area, install new wax ring and get new bolts to thread into where these were, right? Or am I missing something?
 

AEAdam

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Not looking to replace the floor at this point in time. Maybe later.
Do yourself a favor and completely uninstall that toilet, and inspect the flange. It might be cast iron which is why they did that.
So in theory I could just lift the toilet out, clean up the wax ring area, install new wax ring and get new bolts to thread into where these were, right? Or am I missing something?
Yes but use real hardware not tee bolts and real heavy duty washers. Make sure you have rubber under them. If the toilet rocks at all when you’re done, it will leak again.
 

woody 73

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LOL, this post made me laugh so hard I fell out of my chair, in a good way and not at the op.:)
I am not a plumber and cannot help you out op, but I laughed because it reminded me of a movie I watched many years ago, and I cannot remember the name of the movie, but the guy had so much cash he needed to hide it from the cops and his family, so he took out the toilet removed the wax ring and stuffed that sucker full of wads of cash. Well as you can already imagine it flooded his whole bathroom.

It was a fun movie, but the name has escaped me, old tools on the other hand are etched in my old memory banks like Fort knox,lol:rolleyes:
 

Beerhippie

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Those slots look like they have T-nuts in them. Remove the T-nuts. Get some proper flange bolts w/T-heads, slide those into the slots, install your wax ring (get one with the plastic funnel inside) send the bolts through the holes in the toilet base, install washers and nuts, tighten CAREFULLY--don't want to bust the ceramic base of the toilet. Tighten down to a little more than finger-tight, sit on the toilet (don't rock), tighten again, repeat. It's best to do this with the room warm as it softens the wax ring. Add the covers for the nuts and you're done. Packing the inside of the covers with grease will help keep things from rusting.

I see nothing to panic over there.
 

Skyman

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Disclaimer: I am not a plumber. But, I've been under my share of toilets. It looks to me as though somebody thickened the floor (layer of tile?) and thus needed to add a spacer to the flange. It also looks as though the bolts you removed were in threaded holes in the cast iron flange that sits below the spacer. If that's the case, and those threads are still intact, I'd say you're probably in luck. A new wax ring, careful reinstallation of the bolts (or new ones), just GENTLY snug them up - don't overtighten or you'll crack the base of the toilet or break the old cast iron flange. Use plastic shims to stop the toilet from rocking if necessary. Don't try to solve a rocking problem by additional torque on the bolts.
 
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impactims

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I do still have good threads to work with.

I am thinking a stud and nut configuration would be better than going at it with “bolts” as it was.

The studs give me a way to guide the toilet into position rather than trying to stab it blindly and hope I got into into the proper position.
 

Shocker

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Ok, so here is what I would do. I would remove the Sioux Chief extender which was put in to raise the "flange" to the level of the tile. It looks to be screwed in to the subfloor judging by the screws you see from underneath.

It looks like someone just used a non-flange cast iron pipe. This isn't the end of the world but you need a replacement flange.

I used this in my basement where the cast iron flange was quite rotted and instead of cutting the concrete and replacing the cast iron flange and pipe I used this Oatey product. Actually it is the older version, this is the newer one.


Essentially you remove that extender then install this until it is solid in place. Then screw it down into the subfloor. You might need to trim around the pipe to make sure the flange is flush with the tile. A little proud or recessed isn't a problem if you use an adjustable gasket.

Don't reinstall the toilet the way it was. It was done wrong and that Sioux Chief extender is NOT for keeping the toilet steady. It is just for extending an existing flange which I can't really tell if there is one or not.
 

tarmy

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That there is some Bubba work done by some weekend warrior or unlicensed contractor type. As others have said, fix it correctly or there will be other problems.

This is a good project to learn from OP…really not complicated nor hard…just take your time. Great excuse to buy many hundreds of dollars worth of tools too.👍
 

pi_guy

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I had a old school plumber after you get a new ring and seal he would make a ring of plaster of paris that sits between ring and toilet. My toilets never leak or move.
 
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impactims

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Ok, so here is what I would do. I would remove the Sioux Chief extender which was put in to raise the "flange" to the level of the tile. It looks to be screwed in to the subfloor judging by the screws you see from underneath.

It looks like someone just used a non-flange cast iron pipe. This isn't the end of the world but you need a replacement flange.

I used this in my basement where the cast iron flange was quite rotted and instead of cutting the concrete and replacing the cast iron flange and pipe I used this Oatey product. Actually it is the older version, this is the newer one.


Essentially you remove that extender then install this until it is solid in place. Then screw it down into the subfloor. You might need to trim around the pipe to make sure the flange is flush with the tile. A little proud or recessed isn't a problem if you use an adjustable gasket.

Don't reinstall the toilet the way it was. It was done wrong and that Sioux Chief extender is NOT for keeping the toilet steady. It is just for extending an existing flange which I can't really tell if there is one or not.
I do like this idea, but I need to get this done today without complications. I am tempted to replace the ring and bolts and put it back the way it was. A previous owner of the house did this, 15 or more years ago (I bought it 15 years ago) and it just now started to leak. I saw water today for the 1st time.

If I had more time to have the bathroom down or if there was some other problem, I would likely go the route you describe.
 

rsanter

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Unfinished basement below
You need to take a look underneath.
either the last person didn’t know what they were doing or you have a broken toilet flange so they installed the T bolts upside down as a quick fix.

either way you have the benifit of getting a look underneath before taking things apart
 
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impactims

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That there is some Bubba work done by some weekend warrior or unlicensed contractor type. As others have said, fix it correctly or there will be other problems.

This is a good project to learn from OP…really not complicated nor hard…just take your time. Great excuse to buy many hundreds of dollars worth of tools too.👍
I get that it is not perfect but it held up for more than 15 years. I am tempted to give a try at putting ot back the way it was. If I were going to down the bathroom long term for a remodel, I would re-engineer it, hire professionals etc. but not at this time.
 

Shocker

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I do like this idea, but I need to get this done today without complications. I am tempted to replace the ring and bolts and put it back the way it was. A previous owner of the house did this, 15 or more years ago (I bought it 15 years ago) and it just now started to leak. I saw water today for the 1st time.

If I had more time to have the bathroom down or if there was some other problem, I would likely go the route you describe.
So it shouldn't take that much longer to do it right. That flange should be available locally. I think I got mine at Home Depot. It is very easy to do. You are going to remove that spacer anyway, might as well just insert the new Oatey flange and it will be done correctly.

Once you get it cleaned up, it should take less than an hour to do the whole thing.

Mine took longer due to the fact that I had to drill into the concrete to mount the replacement flange and even then it was less than 2 hours to finish the entire job.
 

Dakotadadv8

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I have replaced a toilet seat new wax ring and bolts. No leaks and it was crappy job😀.
 
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