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Anything new with ratchet lube?

Wamsutta

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Happy to be wrong, but I’m pretty sure somebody on GJ had a photo of ratchet repair kit with 21030, which I think is NLGI2. Is it possible Snap On has changed what they supply?

BTW, saw a chart that said 00 is like yogurt, 2 is like peanut butter. If you are smearing a film inside a ratchet head does it matter?
The 21030 tube feels like yogurt to me. I know it's supposed to be rated NLGI 2.

I have to keep it in the refrigerator otherwise it gets too liquidy. I know liquidy is not a word.
 
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KnurledNut

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The 21030 tube feels like yogurt to me. I know it's supposed to be rated NLGI 2.

I have to keep it in the refrigerator otherwise it gets too liquidy. I know liquidy is not a word.
Well, probably be good to keep your ratchets in the fridge too so they dont leak. :lol:
 

AEAdam

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The 21030 tube feels like yogurt to me. I know it's supposed to be rated NLGI 2.

I have to keep it in the refrigerator otherwise it gets too liquidy. I know liquidy is not a word.
Well if you are in Amarillo, you need to keep peanut butter in the refrigerator.

You know me, I take these posts seriously. I was playing with 21030 between my fingers. It IS a little sticky. It might effect back drag a little. If someone claimed they could feel the difference between 2 and 00 in their ratchet, I wouldn’t question it.

I’ve used NLGI 2 in ratchets and been ok. The advantage of Super Lube is that all my ratchets always feel the same any time of year. I wouldn’t hesitate to just use the thicker stuff and I have done.
 

Wamsutta

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Well if you are in Amarillo, you need to keep peanut butter in the refrigerator.

You know me, I take these posts seriously. I was playing with 21030 between my fingers. It IS a little sticky. It might effect back drag a little. If someone claimed they could feel the difference between 2 and 00 in their ratchet, I wouldn’t question it.

I’ve used NLGI 2 in ratchets and been ok. The advantage of Super Lube is that all my ratchets always feel the same any time of year. I wouldn’t hesitate to just use the thicker stuff and I have done.
At the time I had the ratchets apart, I didn't know that Super Lube came in several different thicknesses. I assumed the 21030 was the same lube as Snap-on uses in their factory. Had I of known that the correct Super Lube grease is NLGI 00, I probably wouldn't have used the 21030. The ratchets are smooth though. The one FHF80 I have has almost no back drag with the 21030 in it. Right now I'm up in the air as to whether I should track down some Super Lube 00; I'm not sure.
 

Mgdoug3

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I use 3 in 1 oil, Superlube from Harbor Freight or a mixture of the two. The mixture seems to work the best for me in my Dual 80s.
 

Samuel D

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No. The big flat surfaces need a grease, not an oil.
Why is that?

Is it just so the lubricant stays put for more than ten minutes?

I ask because those large flat surfaces in a ratchet mechanism see low pressures by bearing standards. On the other hand, I suppose replenishment might pose more problems than in a ball bearing, say, that neatly replenishes its own lubricant.

On the general topic of ratchet lubrication: I have an old French SAM S.157 1/2″-drive ratchet handle that I keep mostly because they named it after me. It has a little plastic lube port on the head that sure looks like it’s intended for oil. But I never found the manufacturer’s instructions to be certain how they intended the mechanism to be lubricated.

E6sHYs.jpg
 

Retroman

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I noticed one challenge with ratchet lube is that we expect the lube to be in the ratchet for a long time. Lube tends to dry out no matter what type it is. Thin lube tends to run out unless the ratchet is sealed. I don't know the solution. I have used Permatex engine assembly lube with success, but it does need attention occasionally.

Recently I have experimented with a wax-based dry lube infused with tungsten disulfide nanoparticles. Tungsten disulfide bonds with the metal and is crazy slippery. It goes on wet and then dries to a thin clear film. Definitely reduces drag and sounds a little bit click-ier than with heavier lubes. I can't yet report how it works over the longer term. It's also expensive - $25 for 4oz - and it's something I use for a different purpose so I happened to have it around for the experiment. But if you want the lowest backdrag that might
Are you using the Nanoslick Dry Lube if not can you share the brand or a link.
Thanks,
 

AEAdam

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Why is that?

Is it just so the lubricant stays put for more than ten minutes?

I ask because those large flat surfaces in a ratchet mechanism see low pressures by bearing standards. On the other hand, I suppose replenishment might pose more problems than in a ball bearing, say, that neatly replenishes its own lubricant.
Yes. Obviously the relative motion inside the head happens only during ratcheting. The weight of the handle produces a moment such that the edge of the gear rubs against the top and bottom surfaces of the head. I feel as tho most ratchets are designed with clearance to the sides to prevent the gears from rubbing on the side walls. Sometimes you will see finish worn off in a ring inside the head. It often doesn’t contact as a wide flat surface, tho that’s the goal.

So, we want lubrication between the gear and the head to reduce friction, stop potential scoring or galling, as well as to prevent corrosion.

If there was a tiny oil pump inside our ratchets, we’d use the lightest weight oil we could. But we don’t. So we need a form of lubrication that holds its shape and stays in place.

Lubrication is complicated and not my speciality. But I know tack or stickiness is another attribute, besides thickness or viscosity, that engineers use to ensure the best possible performance.
 
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boom_bap

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Synthetic Super lube isnt compatible with o rings, youd need the silicone one right?
 

Wamsutta

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I use the HF SuperLube (supposedly NLGI 2) in my Mac 30T and have no seepage issues.
I've tried the Super Lube in a MAC 30 tooth. The RLL gives the MAC a much more refined snappier sound. Seepage is only temporary until enough runs out leaving a nice thick wet film on the interior parts. I don't believe there's a universal lubricant for all ratchets.
 

Jeepster04

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Synthetic Super lube isnt compatible with o rings, youd need the silicone one right?

I used that stuff on brake caliper slide pins and swelled the heck out of the rubber around the slide pins. Made my brakes drag till I figured out what was going on. Now I only used silicone grease on brake caliper pins.
 

AEAdam

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And then there was the mechanic who at the end of the day put the ratchet heads in a coffee can of ATF and in the morning pulled them out as needed, wiped off and went to work.
That guy was a dumb ***.

Modern ratchets are sealed and ATF is the wrong lubricant for this application.

If he was smart he would have thought, “gears, my differential has gears I’ll use 90w in my ratchet heads”. That would be smarter.

Never hear that story tho do you. Therefore, all old mechanics are dumb asses! ITS A JOKE
 
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Armatron

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That guy was a dumb ***.

Modern ratchets are sealed and ATF is the wrong lubricant for this application.

If he was smart he would have thought, “gears, my differential has gears I’ll use 90w in my ratchet heads”. That would be smarter.

Never hear that story tho do you. Therefore, all old mechanics are dumb asses! ITS A JOKE

I mean.. It's a ratchet. Yea you want it function properly. What is worst case, the two o-rings stiffen up and you have to do a $11 rebuild kit.
 
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Wamsutta

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I used Permatex assembly lube years ago after reading about it on here. It was a sticky mess that leaked out of all of my ratchets. I moved to Super Lube and all has been well since.
It's a fantastic lube for the correct ratchet. I use it on MAC 30 tooths and nothing else.
 

Wamsutta

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Try a Mac 30 tooth with SuperLube Grade 2 sold at HF.

Works wonders!!!

Totally different ratchet!!!
I already did that. It didn't provide the sound I wanted. Yes, I'm after a specific sound. You don't have to say it. I already know. :)
 
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charger 73

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As for the mechanic who soaked his ratchets in ATF fluid its a great lube for non sealed ratchets. before going to superlube I used air tool oil for my old non sealed ratchets.
 

AEAdam

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As for the mechanic who soaked his ratchets in ATF fluid its a great lube for non sealed ratchets. before going to superlube I used air tool oil for my old non sealed ratchets.
No. ATF is like hydraulic oil for sealed systems with oil journals, pumps, etc. For old sloppy ratchets like my craftsman RPs, you want a nice thick grease. Just keep the grease from clogging up the gear teeth.

And assembly grease is the wrong stuff too. Its stickiness will probably increase back drag in most case. You want something less sticky than that. Ditto anti-seize or brake caliper grease. Wrong products for these applications.
 
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AEAdam

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I mean.. It's a ratchet. Yea you want it function properly. What is worst case, the two o-rings stiffen up and you have to do a $11 rebuild kit.
I mean, yours is a fair question. And people on GJ have been talking about this for a while. In my opinion, most of their recommendations have been, well, misguided.

Snap On has a real engineering dept. Not every tool manufacturer does. Simple answer is to follow the manufacturers instructions. If we think there‘s something better out there, or you have a unique situation, better to engage the engineers here. But fair warning: nothing simple or common about selecting lubricants. It’s a complicated subject. Industry uses specialists. I’m not one.
 

ronkz650

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Regular Super Lube gets really thick in cold weather. My old garage gets way below freezing in winter. Use a ratchet with regular Super Lube, it's sticky as heck in back drag in Winter. Of course if you work indoors or with heat, it probably works.
 

AEAdam

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Regular Super Lube gets really thick in cold weather. My old garage gets way below freezing in winter. Use a ratchet with regular Super Lube, it's sticky as heck in back drag in Winter. Of course if you work indoors or with heat, it probably works.
It shouldn’t. Could depend on your definition of “cold weather”. Super Lube is a synthetic oil with teflon added. Synthetic oils change viscosity less than petroleum based oils do. So if you are unhappy with its performance, you’ve got probably the best product available for extreme temperatures.
 

MarcSeattle

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I noticed one challenge with ratchet lube is that we expect the lube to be in the ratchet for a long time. Lube tends to dry out no matter what type it is. Thin lube tends to run out unless the ratchet is sealed. I don't know the solution. I have used Permatex engine assembly lube with success, but it does need attention occasionally.

Recently I have experimented with a wax-based dry lube infused with tungsten disulfide nanoparticles. Tungsten disulfide bonds with the metal and is crazy slippery. It goes on wet and then dries to a thin clear film. Definitely reduces drag and sounds a little bit click-ier than with heavier lubes. I can't yet report how it works over the longer term. It's also expensive - $25 for 4oz - and it's something I use for a different purpose so I happened to have it around for the experiment. But if you want the lowest backdrag that might be it.
Are you using the Nanoslick Dry Lube if not can you share the brand or a link.
Thanks,

It's called Silca Super Secret Chain Lube. Used in bicycle racing where every bit of friction counts. Tungsten DiSulfide has half the friction of ice.
 

Wamsutta

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Regular Super Lube gets really thick in cold weather. My old garage gets way below freezing in winter. Use a ratchet with regular Super Lube, it's sticky as heck in back drag in Winter. Of course if you work indoors or with heat, it probably works.
I keep mine in the refrigerator so it doesn't melt. Even when being cold, I'd say the thickness is no thicker than Neosporin ointment.
 

ronkz650

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I may have possibly just imagined the regular Super Lube caused backdrag. I used it on motorcycle brake and clutch lever pivot bolts and it basically turned to glue within a couple thousand miles. I had it in a couple ratchets and removed it and just used 3 in 1 oil after that and it seemed much better, but could be my imagination. I know for sure don't use it in wet despite the claims.
All that negative aside, I ordered a 14oz tub of the lighter 00 rated and will give it a try, also 14oz of the silicon grease, and the 4oz of oring lube. I got the oring lube and it seems excellent.
 

rick carpenter

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I emailed GearWrench about lube/etc a while back. Apex Tool Group tech support replied with the following...

You have a 90 tooth ratch which means it has 90 positions (clicks) so you can use in tighter spots and still get turns on the fastener. It may feel sloppy but if it’s not slipping, but grabbing when you want it to grab it should be working properly. As for maintenance there really isn’t any. However, you can use light coat of grease on the gears, or if you prefer oil, you can use air tool oil, mineral oil even 30w non-detergent oil to lubricant occasionally if you like. Good luck to you and I hope you have a blessed and safe New Year.

I use 3-in-1 on my GW 90T's now, and don't mind re-applying it when necessary.

 

gatewaysysop

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Seems to have been said more than a few times now, but just to add more data points, I've used Super Lube NGLI 2 for years without issue. I've run it in 24 tooth Proto, 30- and 50-something tooth SK, and anything else (including Craftsman RHFT) I've acquired bone dry and had to disassemble and clean up.

I will say, I put very light coatings on anything that isn't very coarse tooth, almost to the point where it's more like a thin film. I would rather put too little than too much, and that's the side I err on. Besides, how much do you really need? It's a ratchet mechanism, not a wheel bearing. :unsure:
 
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Armatron

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I ordered a bunch of packs of the 00 super lube. It is very, very noticeably thinner than the 2 that comes in the tube.
 
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Armatron

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Some updates

The 00 super lube is noticeably better than regular tube #2 super lube in 3/8 high tooth ratchets

However, it is too thick at least in the snap on 72t 1/4" ratchets. I messed around with a couple of lubes and settled on 10w stclairs nano-oil. I might move to 5w. These smaller ratchets/teeth/pawls very obviously function better with oil vs anything grease rated. My benchmark for 1/4" backdrag is a nepros 90t 1/4". Even with 10w nano oil, the snap on has very slightly more back drag
 
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