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Application of 2 Color Scheme for Epoxy

Homewrecker

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Sep 19, 2013
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
While I wait for our new house to be finished I'm trying to come up with ideas of a color scheme for the garage (I'm leaning towards blue and grey).

The foundation walls in the garage come up 3' above the slab. I was thinking of coating those in a different color epoxy than the floor and perhaps even having a border of the foundation wall color extend a few inches onto the floor (i.e. wall will be blue with a blue 6" border around the floor)

Is there a time limit to when one coat of epoxy can be painted over another? For instance, since winter is coming I was thinking of doing the foundation walls and a floor border over the winter and the remaining portion of the floor when it gets warmer again (garage will be heated but I'm not comfortable doing the entire floor when it's freezing outside - especially the area at the garage door).

If I'm doing the 2 color scheme do I have to apply these colors within hours or days of each other or does it matter? Once everything is done I will then do a urethane clear coat on top of everything.

Also, it is said you're not supposed to keep the mixed epoxy in the bucket and that it should be poured out on the floor immediately. Since I'm doing the foundation walls how would I do this? Do I just use a tray and paint roller?
 
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shaun oriold1

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Burlington,Ontatio
Hey local person. IF you want to give me a call I can walk you through what you're looking to do. my number is 905.923.3689. Are you using a flake in the base coat?

For coating, just pour it into a paint tray, and roll away. You have a decent amount of working time. Heck, add a few oz of xylene if you want more working time.
 
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Homewrecker

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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Hey local person. IF you want to give me a call I can walk you through what you're looking to do. my number is 905.923.3689. Are you using a flake in the base coat?

For coating, just pour it into a paint tray, and roll away. You have a decent amount of working time. Heck, add a few oz of xylene if you want more working time.

I see you're also a 905'er lol. You wouldn't happen to be an epoxy contractor would you? ;) I was on the fence about using flakes but I think I'm just going to go with a straight base coat. I like the clean look of it.
 

nolimits76

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Oklahoma
I think the flakes offer a little traction/slip resistance. If you don't do flakes, make sure you get a top coating that is slip resistant.

In regards to overall installation, I will throw out my 2 cents.

First, make up your mind which epoxy product you want to use so you can visit with them about the proper prep techniques. Prep is the key to a good long lasting floor. Usually "new/green" concrete requires a minimum 30 day cure from when it's poured. Also, the manufacturer can guide you on the proper cure agents/sealers that your builder can (or cannot) use so you get the best possible substrate from the get go.

Secondly, if you are going to commit to this, I would make the commitment to do it all at once. Myself, I would be pushing to do right after the 30 day cure time (or whatever the manufacturer recommends) and BEFORE you start placing your junk in the garage or any cars. Most likely your garage slab will poured at the same time as the rest of your house (at least that is how it's done here, but slab construction is common and I'm way south of you). Anyhow, assuming that is correct, you will get the minimum cure time because they will have to frame, roof and then finish out the interior. I would work with the builder and try to get in the last 3-5 days before you close and do all your prep work and coatings then. This will allow you to get it all done while the concrete is still a "virgin" and should cut down on your prep work. It may take a little coordination up front, but I think it's the less hassle down the road. You could still do the 2 color combo if you desire. Just allow sufficient time for the border color to dry so you can start working on the main parts. It may take more than 3-5 days coordination with the builder that I originally suggested.
 
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Homewrecker

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Thanks for the input. Up here the garage slab is poured separate from the foundation. My foundation was poured in May but the garage slab was just poured about a month ago.

The slab just has a troweled finish with no sealer on it. I can't do anything until I take possession of the house which won't be until the end of November. I'll have to move everything to the new place and when I'm ready to do the floor I'll ask the neighbour if I can keep all my equipment in their garage until I'm done. Either that or I can rent a storage pod.

I haven't decided yet on which product I'll be using. Probably either Wolverine or Legacy. I'm even debating to use one of those Big Box Store Epoxy Kits for the contrasting color on the foundation wall. The wall doesn't get nearly as much abuse as the floor so it might be a waste of money to use the good stuff on the walls. It's the floor I'll be spending the $$ on.
 

nolimits76

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Oklahoma
Not saying your builder will do it, but have you asked if you can actually enter early to do work? Doubt he will let you occupy early, but doing work isn't typically a big deal as long as you aren't in his way.

Good idea on the neighbor or storage pod. By chance, you buddies with the neighbors already? I don't see that happening much around here, until you are friends with people. Maybe it's a different culture up that way.

In regards to the epoxy, have you done your research yet? From what I can tell, the best setup is one that is concrete, primer, base epoxy, flakes & top coat. Again...proper prep. You may be able to skip the primer, depending on your groundwater conditions. I think for the small cost, it's cheap insurance personally.

Next, I think warranty comes into play. I've noticed they are all over the board...no warranty, 1 year, 10 year, 15 year, lifetime, etc. All seem conditional on good prep, and limited to value of the product (no labor). Using a vendor here sounds like a solid plan. The guys I've spoke to seem knowledgeable and have a desire to help you succeed.

If you decide to paint just the vertical portions of the stem wall a different color, I might consider a cheap paint. Like you said, no real abuse there. If you bring that color onto the floor for a 1-2' border, I would prefer a better epoxy because in that space is where your benches, etc will be and stuff will be getting moved and scuffed around there.

Either way, congrats on getting a new house...I've done it a few times, and it's exciting! Be sure to post lots of before, during & after pictures.
 
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Homewrecker

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Doing any work prior to the closing of the sale is not an option. They let me insulate the walls in the garage but doing anything with the floor is out of the question and wouldn't really be practical at this point since the garage door has yet to be installed anyway.

I do know the neighbours so using their garage won't be an issue provided that they have space.

I have done quite a bit of reading on the subject. I do intend to go with a primer, base coat and clear urethane top coat. I will also grind the walls and floor. I'm not too concerned about the warranty though.

New homes are nice but it's a tedious process though. Have to stay on top of everything to make sure it's all done right. Thankfully this isn't my first rodeo.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
Gents:
Couple comments:
Yes you can go two-tone. Complete your base-coat. Wait the required amount of time for recoating. Apply your secondary color. Wait it out, then if you care to clear the entire floor.
You should still be under the initial 24 hour window.

also, flakes that are cleared do not add to your cof. You need a clear with anti-skid for true skid resistance .
 
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Homewrecker

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Sep 19, 2013
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Gents:
Couple comments:
Yes you can go two-tone. Complete your base-coat. Wait the required amount of time for recoating. Apply your secondary color. Wait it out, then if you care to clear the entire floor.
You should still be under the initial 24 hour window.

also, flakes that are cleared do not add to your cof. You need a clear with anti-skid for true skid resistance .

So there is a 'window' for recoating? Could I do a base coat and then for argument's sake put down the secondary color at a later date (i.e. several weeks)?
 
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shaun oriold1

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Burlington,Ontatio
I see you're also a 905'er lol. You wouldn't happen to be an epoxy contractor would you? ;) I was on the fence about using flakes but I think I'm just going to go with a straight base coat. I like the clean look of it.


Yup, I am local and am a contractor. I'm not hoping to get work. I'm out in Burlington, and pretty much stick to this away - and 90% my work is by referral really - Mostly with builders, and I'm happy to stick to that model.

I'm just offering to lend a hand, as I like to think I've learned a few thing after doing a bunch of floors, and can help you source things locally - like Xylene for instance...

Shaun
 
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Homewrecker

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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Yup, I am local and am a contractor. I'm not hoping to get work. I'm out in Burlington, and pretty much stick to this away - and 90% my work is by referral really - Mostly with builders, and I'm happy to stick to that model.

I'm just offering to lend a hand, as I like to think I've learned a few thing after doing a bunch of floors, and can help you source things locally - like Xylene for instance...

Shaun

Would you be interested in coming out to the 'Shwa to do a job?
 

jutrem

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Oct 30, 2009
Messages
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Location
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Yup, I am local and am a contractor. I'm not hoping to get work. I'm out in Burlington, and pretty much stick to this away - and 90% my work is by referral really - Mostly with builders, and I'm happy to stick to that model.

I'm just offering to lend a hand, as I like to think I've learned a few thing after doing a bunch of floors, and can help you source things locally - like Xylene for instance...

Shaun
Great another Burlington (Toronto) member!
 

jutrem

New member
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
2
Location
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
While I wait for our new house to be finished I'm trying to come up with ideas of a color scheme for the garage (I'm leaning towards blue and grey).

The foundation walls in the garage come up 3' above the slab. I was thinking of coating those in a different color epoxy than the floor and perhaps even having a border of the foundation wall color extend a few inches onto the floor (i.e. wall will be blue with a blue 6" border around the floor)

I would recommend not epoxying the foundation walls.
Reason # 1. cost - 3 feet x 60 feet ( average the perimeter of double garage) = a lot of epoxy and flakes.
Reason # 2. The foundation walls are rough and uneven. It would require a lot of patching/ grinding for a smooth epoxy application.
Reason #3. These coatings are harder to apply to a vertical surface. If you are adding (colour) flakes to the floor. Its harder to apply evenly to a wall.

Frame and Drywall (shower/water/ mold resistant type) the foundation wall instead then finish with a (vinyl) baseboard. Or just paint it with concrete paint from Cdn Tire, H. Depot etc.
My garage foundation was done (~ professionally) in the same Polyaspartic /flake combo as the floor. The roughness of the concrete of the foundation wall is still visible. More time was spent on the foundation walls than the floor. Going to cover over it as soon as I get the chance since the rest of the garage is already drywalled.
 

PhantomEB

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Feb 6, 2006
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Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
Don't bother with the box store ****.... you will end up doin it over again in a year or two. Took me four years but I got most of the **** off the floor just from traffic.

I think you would be better off with Sherwin Williams armor thane or something like the Legacy above or Wolverine.
 
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Homewrecker

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Sep 19, 2013
Messages
159
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
I would recommend not epoxying the foundation walls.
Reason # 1. cost - 3 feet x 60 feet ( average the perimeter of double garage) = a lot of epoxy and flakes.
Reason # 2. The foundation walls are rough and uneven. It would require a lot of patching/ grinding for a smooth epoxy application.
Reason #3. These coatings are harder to apply to a vertical surface. If you are adding (colour) flakes to the floor. Its harder to apply evenly to a wall.

Frame and Drywall (shower/water/ mold resistant type) the foundation wall instead then finish with a (vinyl) baseboard. Or just paint it with concrete paint from Cdn Tire, H. Depot etc.
My garage foundation was done (~ professionally) in the same Polyaspartic /flake combo as the floor. The roughness of the concrete of the foundation wall is still visible. More time was spent on the foundation walls than the floor. Going to cover over it as soon as I get the chance since the rest of the garage is already drywalled.

I definitely won't be applying the expensive stuff on the walls. I don't want to frame or drywall either since I powerwash the floors and don't want to worry about soaking the drywal - even if it is mold resistant etc.

I'll chisel down all the overly high ridges and fill some of the bigger holes. I'll then use some sort of cheaper coating on the walls.


Have some concrete paint matched to the color of the epoxy.
Will look nice and will not cost you $$.

That's what I was thinking.

I used a 2 part epoxy I got from Home Depot several years ago in my Basement.
Can't remember the name but it came with Paint Flakes as well and stood up very well. Never had any problems with it and the kit was $99 at the time.

I'll probably go that route.
 
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