Wamsutta
Well-known member
I would suggest a Trusty-Cook or Snap-on.
Appropriate Hammer for Working On Car Suspension
- Thread starter winlinmac
- Start date
I would suggest a Trusty-Cook or Snap-on.
KraftwerkMk1Jetta
Well-known member
I use my 32oz Snap On brass hammer all day long. It's one of my favorite hammers.
Yeah. The brass will work your wallet out.
I have this but it just sits by the lathe for "final massages". It's not allowed under some P.O.S. vehicle.
Jeez. I guess I am a 'tool polisher'.....LOL
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JGIFXM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I have this but it just sits by the lathe for "final massages". It's not allowed under some P.O.S. vehicle.
Jeez. I guess I am a 'tool polisher'.....LOL
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JGIFXM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
logikal
Well-known member
This thread is absolute hilarity. Seriously, All these specific hammer suggestions....come on guys. I am a 30$ an hour Porsche master tech and you know what hammer I use for "suspension" work? A 16 oz. ball peen and, in occasions when load is needed, a 36" pry bar. It is has nothing to do with the transfer of force, bot more to do with frequency. To match the resonate frequency of your metal at or rust depending on circumstance; allows for the ease of smooth removal of suspension components. Also I work in the rust belt and haven't touched my torches except for that on car who lived in mud for ten years. Learn to swing the damn thing.
Just my two cents, usually worthless. Actually, always worthless.
Just my two cents, usually worthless. Actually, always worthless.
Finky198
Well-known member
That's exactly the issue you work on shinny Porsches...
And we mostly work on rusty you know...
My 16oz DB Ball peen is mainly for bench work and some light duty assembly... Here in the rust belt working on used jeeps, trucks and equipment u need very different set of tools. Especially Big Hammers.
And we mostly work on rusty you know...
My 16oz DB Ball peen is mainly for bench work and some light duty assembly... Here in the rust belt working on used jeeps, trucks and equipment u need very different set of tools. Especially Big Hammers.
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KraftwerkMk1Jetta
Well-known member
Exactly!
Being in the Northeast, along the eastern seaboard, you don't want to know how much rust forms on the under-bodies of these cars a well, especially after the winter months. 
jerseykat1
Well-known member
the only hammer you need is a big one that wont break when you swing it hard enough to knock the car off the lift. effn ball joints
MikeF2316
Well-known member
I can't believe that nobody has suggested you need at least 20 hammers of various configurations and weights. 
I'm not flat rate, and I'm mostly working on my own stuff, so doing no damage is priority one. So I generally start out with a 12 oz ball peen and move up in weight as required. I also find that the European brands tend to have more rust resistant bolts that come out with less bashing.
I'm not flat rate, and I'm mostly working on my own stuff, so doing no damage is priority one. So I generally start out with a 12 oz ball peen and move up in weight as required. I also find that the European brands tend to have more rust resistant bolts that come out with less bashing.
redwrench60
Well-known member
Simple answer: 32 or 40 ounce dead blow ball peen hammer. Read on for more or stop here.
I like the heavier weight ball peens with longer handles from Trusty Cook. Lots of power potential there for dislodging stuck drums/rotors/hubs/ball joints/tie rods. Since they're polyurethane overmolded steel hammers they shrug off over swings and collisions that would ruin wooden handles and they're solvent/oil resistant.
That short drilling hammer you bought is only for punch and chisel work. It's heavy head and short handle will get your fingers and hands smashed on a neighboring part when you start swinging. You want a longer handle for swing power and it gets your hands out of the danger zone. You ever see people who always seem to have black thumbs or fingernails from hammer strikes? Chances are they are using the wrong hammer type or weight for the job.
Engineers hammers are for really going to town on some heavy piece of machinery or bent part.
Drilling hammers are only for punch and chisel work.
Ball peens in several weights satisfy work ranging from delicate gunsmithing and bench work all the way up to heavy suspension work and fabrication.
Claw hammers are only for carpentry and building trades.
I like the heavier weight ball peens with longer handles from Trusty Cook. Lots of power potential there for dislodging stuck drums/rotors/hubs/ball joints/tie rods. Since they're polyurethane overmolded steel hammers they shrug off over swings and collisions that would ruin wooden handles and they're solvent/oil resistant.
That short drilling hammer you bought is only for punch and chisel work. It's heavy head and short handle will get your fingers and hands smashed on a neighboring part when you start swinging. You want a longer handle for swing power and it gets your hands out of the danger zone. You ever see people who always seem to have black thumbs or fingernails from hammer strikes? Chances are they are using the wrong hammer type or weight for the job.
Engineers hammers are for really going to town on some heavy piece of machinery or bent part.
Drilling hammers are only for punch and chisel work.
Ball peens in several weights satisfy work ranging from delicate gunsmithing and bench work all the way up to heavy suspension work and fabrication.
Claw hammers are only for carpentry and building trades.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you're unsure of what hammer to use, perhaps working on yours car's suspension should be left to skilled professionals
On a side note, many late model vehicles have aluminum suspension components to save weight in the dash to meet fuel economy standards.
That being said the appropriate puller may be better to have than trying to beat a part into submission.
On a side note, many late model vehicles have aluminum suspension components to save weight in the dash to meet fuel economy standards.
That being said the appropriate puller may be better to have than trying to beat a part into submission.
Strouty
Well-known member
Make sure to get a good pair of gloves too.
This is my go to hammer, when facing a tough job. It is a Blue Point 48 OZ that was given to me with a broken handle in 1956. It was my first (salvaged) rehandled job and is still going strong. That 1 1/4" square bar was acquired shortly after, and, those ends are usually better dressed.
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kythri
Well-known member
So, in this context (automotive suspension), why a dead blow ball peen over a dead blow flat/flat?
What on a car suspension are you going to be peening?
What on a car suspension are you going to be peening?
byoungblood
Well-known member
When I did work on the axles of my Wrangler, a steel faced dead blow was my go to hammer of choice for getting tapered joints free. I have a mini-sledge that sees occasional duty when something needs heavy duty persuasion, but usually the dead blow gets the job done.
Well, I'm only using the drilling hammer for punching out the pinch bolt in the upper control arms area. I see DIY enthusiasts using either drilling or ball pein hammers. I have 32, 16, and 7oz ball pein hammers, where the 32-oz should be more than adequate in helping me remove the pinch bolt. The pinch bolts are notorious for seizing way before its due to replace the upper control arms.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
I'm pretty sure just about any hammer is suitable for hitting an 8mm pin punch with for that bolt.
Good luck with it, seized ain't the word, at my old place we had a special jig to clamp the hub in to drill that bolt out with a milling machine. We just cut the arms off to remove the hub.
I do most of them with a special adapter for an air hammer, but have had to replace entire hubs due to those seized bolts.
redwrench60
Well-known member
Nothing that I know of, but being prolific and multipurpose with a compact head, excellent power and swing control makes them well suited. They also have the required hardness for striking harder objects.
That said, there aren't many commonly available flat flat hammers with compact heads and long handles that swing like a big ball peen. That is evidenced by the excitement with Trusty Cooks soon to come out flat flat series. I'll be ordering some too.
mdtaylorjr
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2015
- Messages
- 37
I work on cars all day long and the best hammer I've ever had is a snap on hbbd series 32 oz. Its heavy enough to get a good impact and light enough to swing freely. Can usually knock a ball joint out with 2 or 3 swings
Farmall450
Well-known member
Eh, hard to beat the leverage you need from an engineer's hammer (mini sledge).
OP, the hammer you really need is an air hammer.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
That's what i use the most. I used my old one so much that i broke it.
OP, the hammer you really need is an air hammer.
100%.
Finky198
Well-known member
I'd say the real key to using any hammer is proper hand position, and using the thumb to guide the swing to the target.
I personally find the peening side is great when you try to strike an area smaller then the flat face of the hammer or when the area will not take a hit from a flat object say a curved part...
I think it's the choice of most more due to versitiliity of the ball peen hammer, rather than a dual face esp if you all ready own multiple size BP hammer as most of us do. The dual face has becom somewhat dare i say obsolete... The same goes for dual headed axes which are great for chopping down trees by hand. When you dull the first side you can flip it over and keep on working, but fortunately times have changed and chainsaws now do most of the work. So there's a much greater need for a std multi purpose axe... Which can chop and pound wedges VS the good old dual headed axe which can only accomplish one task chopping...
Best advice I can give is, use the Tool that gets the job done and makes "U" happy.
or puts a smile on your face. 
I personally find the peening side is great when you try to strike an area smaller then the flat face of the hammer or when the area will not take a hit from a flat object say a curved part...
I think it's the choice of most more due to versitiliity of the ball peen hammer, rather than a dual face esp if you all ready own multiple size BP hammer as most of us do. The dual face has becom somewhat dare i say obsolete... The same goes for dual headed axes which are great for chopping down trees by hand. When you dull the first side you can flip it over and keep on working, but fortunately times have changed and chainsaws now do most of the work. So there's a much greater need for a std multi purpose axe... Which can chop and pound wedges VS the good old dual headed axe which can only accomplish one task chopping...
Best advice I can give is, use the Tool that gets the job done and makes "U" happy.
or puts a smile on your face.
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7 years later- yes, vaughan made all the craftsman hammers of that era- they recently discontinued the fiberglass handles engineers version (the red one in your pic) here’s the vaughan version to compare—Who's the OEM for Craftsman Engineer's Drilling Hammers? Vaughan?
VAUGHAN SDF40F Engineer Hammer Fiberglass Handle 2.5 lb Made In USA New | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for VAUGHAN SDF40F Engineer Hammer Fiberglass Handle 2.5 lb Made In USA New at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
southalabama
Well-known member
The claw hammer has done more automotive work than the “proper” hammer. If the head isn’t big enough turn it sideways.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
No matter how I hold the claw hammer, an 8 or 10 sledge gets the message across far faster.
I use the brass one quite a bit on little girlie cars.
And a 3lb cross pein with a 4" handle in restricted spaces.
But my favorite is hitting opposite sides of a taper simultaneously with 2 hammers so the stud can just fall out. (Easiest with 2 near identical hammers)
I use the brass one quite a bit on little girlie cars.
And a 3lb cross pein with a 4" handle in restricted spaces.
But my favorite is hitting opposite sides of a taper simultaneously with 2 hammers so the stud can just fall out. (Easiest with 2 near identical hammers)
It's a lot dirtier now, but the Son of Stubby (or something like that) from Trusty Cook has been great for me:
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Death Row Dave
Well-known member
The first hammer pictured is what I used to caulk , joints in large bell and spigot cast iron pipe . The shape of the head allowed me to strike the joint and not damage the pipe .
richfinn
Well-known member
Bit late for the OP, but I think this one makes a good alternative to a regular 32oz ball/pein hammer for automotive work (I almost never use the ball anyway)
It's dead blow and the soft face is replaceable, the large size is just under 32oz
Much cheaper than Snap-On etc.
www.hultafors.com
It's dead blow and the soft face is replaceable, the large size is just under 32oz
Much cheaper than Snap-On etc.
Combihammare T-Block
Ergonomiskt utformad hammare som ökar precisionen och minskar tröttheten. Skallen är fylld med stålkulor som dämpar stöten och minskar rekylen. Motvikten i skaftet bromsar återrotationen.
www.hultafors.com
The best hammer is zero hammer for cars. Get the proper pullers. Avoid using hammers, pitch forks etc. There is always a better tool out there. Just spend the money. I got a pair of these, mostly hitting stuff with a block of wood in between. These are essentially dead blow hammers.
While I leave my real hammers this way
While I leave my real hammers this way
Dude - cars need hammers. Rotors get stuck, struts need help coming out of the knuckle (or going back in), etc.The best hammer is zero hammer for cars. Get the proper pullers. Avoid using hammers, pitch forks etc. There is always a better tool out there. Just spend the money. I got a pair of these, mostly hitting stuff with a block of wood in between. These are essentially dead blow hammers.
While I leave my real hammers this way
And those are sledges, not a dead blow. A dead-blow specifically refers to the shot-filled head that nearly eliminates recoil and delivers a lot of energy to whatever you're striking. (What I posted above is a dead blow).
Odd-job
Well-known member
+1 this is the oneIt's a lot dirtier now, but the Son of Stubby (or something like that) from Trusty Cook has been great for me:
Do you remember where you got that one? It seems like everything on the Trusty Cook website is sold out and I can't find another source for the green version of this hammer. I really want to add one of these to the box.It's a lot dirtier now, but the Son of Stubby (or something like that) from Trusty Cook has been great for me:
Odd-job
Well-known member
I bought mine from JDC:
45 oz Soft-Face/Steel Face Dead Blow | JDTCo.
Here’s the latest addition to our lineup of dead blow hammers: a versatile hammer for the professional and DIYer alike.
www.jerseydiscounttoolco.com
One of the rare times I paid full retail on something.
I got it from them directly when this was still a bit experimental - the TC guy hung around here and offered them to folks.
bubinga
Well-known member
This was Inexpensive I paid like $15.00 My tools were in storage, and I needed some tools when I had an incident with my car. I paid only $15.00 with prime shipping In July/2021, But it's $24.00 and $7.00 shipping now
This Wilton 4# bash is really nice, It was only $28.00 in 2018 on sale, But It's $83.40 now
VolvoRyan
Well-known member
Long barrel air hammer?
-Ryan
-Ryan
why would you pick that real steel one over this estwing one?