Are Harbor Freight torque sticks any good?

[larryforce]

I don't and won't EVER use or trust a torque stick. Think about it for a minute, in order for a torque stick to be accurate you would have to know the amount of impact force that was used to "size" the particular torque stick. Every impact gun has a different amount of impact force capability, air line size will also make a difference, and the available air pressure also will make a difference. All that being said I have a friend who had bought a set of torque stick from the Snap-on truck and the first use he snapped the stick in half. He was sure it was just a bad tool so he had it replaced with another new one and preceded to break that one in half as well. He quickly learned that pulling out the trusty torque wrench and torquing the lugs by hand was the best method and has never used another torque stick to this day.

My princess auto torque sticks came with instructions for calibrating your impact gun/torque stick combo

 

[doan]

I'll join the torque ***** are useless crowd. I always run lug nuts/bolts in with the gun but never tighten them with the gun. That is what torque wrenches are for. The extra minute it takes to do the final tightening by hand is worth the certainty it is done right to me, but I have had a wheel come off on my so I'm a little bias.
For the record the wheel that came off was not caused by a torque sticks. It was a stupid shop and me not checking my trailer prior to use.

Seems like torque sticks followed by a torque wrench would often fail. For a torque wrench to be accurate, you have to overcome static friction (the fastener starts to move) to measure the torque during kinetic friction. For example if the torque stick tightened to 85 and you wanted 90, your torque wrench might click before the nut ever turned.

This is why things like heads that are progressively torqued, have relatively large jumps. You need to measure the torque while the nut is moving.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I keep forgetting torque sticks and torque wrenches are two different things, but the terms get used together and mixed up a lot. Even I do it.

For my own personal preference, I like using a torque wrench that I can set to the amount I want and know it is good. Or at least it's good to what I know. I don't use torque sticks because I don't have them. I haven't found a need for them in my average work.

Brand to me means more about reliability, ease of replacement, customer service, and price. All brands vary in different categories to give value to me. Those factors are unique to myself. Everyone will weigh those values differently and that's the way it should be.

 

[Shadowdog500]

I use them (not a shop, just at home on 6 different cars). Use them for lug nugs mostly and then check with a torque wrench. Has not failed so far and right on the money.

How do you know this?

Because I use a torque wrench every single time I use the sticks. And it clicks right away. What am I missing?

it clicks because its overtorqued already. LOL.... just kidding.

If the torque wrench clicks right away all that tells you is that it is at or tighter than the desired torque. you could run your lugnuts on with a 1" 1,000 ft-lb impact and it would still pass the "torque wrench clicked right away test".

My HF 65ft-lb torque sticks torque my lugnuts to over 100ft-lb when I run them with my earthquake 1/2 impact on the second lowest setting. I got tired of baking them off slightly then re torquing them, so now I run the lugnuts on to the 70 ft-lb limit of wmy HF earthquake impacting air ratchet, then I tak them to final torque with my torque wrench.


Chris

 

[Finky198]

Interesting. So you use an air hose as thick as the tool's handle? How'se that work out for you?

Works just fine here we have 3/8" hose whips for use in tighter areas. 3/4" Hoses are on reels and plumbed to 1" steel pipe I've had no issues

 

[rlitman]

Works just fine here we have 3/8" hose whips for use in tighter areas. 3/4" Hoses are on reels and plumbed to 1" steel pipe I've had no issues

Considering that a 90lb jackhammer that uses probably 10x as much air as an IR 2135 runs just fine on 1/2" air hose... Are you measuring the hose's circumference? You know what, I just give up.

 

[Finky198]

3/4" rubber hose what do you not understand English. i'm sure they will run fine on half-inch line but that's what I have. We also run 4.5" Angle grinders and an atlas Copco 9x rivet gun on the same lines

 

[mmack66]

Google "falacy" dude.

Didn't get any results.

 

[Charlief]

Torque sticks wear out.... Lots of guys don't know that. I have my heavy users turn theirs in every year under warranty for new ones. Provided they are BP/Snappy.

I personally wouldn't use a torque stick. Torque wrenches only if I owned a shop.

 

[gearhead1]

I use the sticks and a torque wrench because I do not do this professionally. I only work on my cars for maintenance and repairs, so sometimes I go a few months without using any tools. So I do not have the habit or the feel for using the impact and the torque sticks give me the safety of not going over (or not too much - which I have definitely done in the past). And because they are my cars in my driveway I take the time to use the torque wrench to double check.

I have only used them on wheel nuts so far and all my cars have what I would call a wide range for accepted torque. I think the fact that they are all the same (or very close) is more important than the value itself (within the range)... and the torque wrench gives me that.

Now my scientific mind (scientist but not in the mechanical field) is curious... given a tight bolt, is there a way to know how much torque was applied? I know the snap-on tq will give you the final torque after turning a bolt x degrees... but what about after the fact?

You hit the nail on the head. The fact that the lug nuts are close in torque with respect to each other is more important than the torque value (of course within the torque spec plus minus limits). If the spec is 100 ft lbs, I'd rather have them all at 95 ft lbs then they be all over the place. If one is way low, it could loosen then the load that was divided among 5 lugs is now divided on 4 lugs. The remaining 4 could be carrying more than they were designed for. It can go downhill from there......

There is a simple way to test and see how much torque was applied. Take a wheel and torque the lug nuts with the torque stick/impact method, then use a digital torque wrench to measure the torque required to remove the lug nuts. (The digital torque wrench has a mode to record the peak torque.) Then take the same wheel and torque the lug nuts with the torque wrench. Then do the same thing and measure the torque required to remove the lug nuts.

To understand the essence of this requires understanding of threads, how an impact works and strength of materials and how they relate.

Threads
Of the simple machines, threads are basically an inclined plane, just wrapped around a cylinder. After the fastener is snug, the fastener stretches as it continues to be tightened. You obviously can't see the stretch by eye, but it is this stretch that provides the clamp load to hold the mating parts together. The torque is an indirect measure of clamp load. We use torque as it is much easier to measure than fastener stretch. So clamp load is what we're after using a torque value as the indicator.

Impact Tool
The impact as the name implies, does not apply constant torque. The tool periodically attempts to tighten the fastener, not constantly. There are some good YouTube videos that show how.

Strength of Materials
The torque sticks are designed such that they torsionally give when the torque exceeds it's rating. So as the gun 'impacts' the stick is really twisting at that point, thereby absorbing the excess energy. The two factors in the design to control the 'give' are geometry, diameter in this case, and the strength of the material. If the same material is used to make a set of torques ticks, then they will have different diameters. If a set of sticks have the same diameters, then they will be made of different strength materials.

After a period of repeated use, there comes a point the material will fatigue and the sticks are no longer as accurate. Maybe. In theory they would be designed for infinite life taking the fatigue of repeated stress into account. The other thing this highlights is quality control of the material.

I'm a mechanical engineer, I use torque sticks, and I have my wife and kid in the family car. No issues. And to top it off......mine are from HF. I also did a check before I used them.

I would also say if I was in business, I'd keep a data log, and do the test once every 6 months on my sticks to ensure they are operating correctly if the manufacturer didn't recommend something.

Now notice the sticks are usually painted......I'll stop there, that's another topic as to why.

 

[Finky198]

Just saw these on ebay this deserves an award
Anyone want want to try them ��

 

[Skin]

Just my personal opinion but I wouldn't use harbor freight torque sticks with my family in the car

$100 is cheap in the scheme of things

I agree with you. That "scolding" on the first page is unjustified. Its not exactly a secret that HF, quality, and accuracy are a mixed bag at best. The Blue-Point ones are made in Sweden I believe by a company called "Torque Stick". Goes without saying but making torque sticks is what they do and they've been doing it a long time. I'd trust them before some cheap Asian copy.

I was surprised last year when a review of torque wrenches between Snap On, Mac, Craftsman, and Harbor Freight had the HF wrenches in the lead for accuracy and price. I wish I could remember what magazine that was in.

Its been in 2 or 3 magazines. There was no MAC torque wrench and the "review" is very sparse on the numbers when it comes to the competition. If I remember correctly all they published were HF numbers at one setting which isn't much of a test. Hiball did his own which is probably a better representation of the difference. In his test the HF had a peak swing of roughly 6% from fastener to fastener at 90 and 130 foot pounds while a Precision Instruments had a swing of 2%. Also keep in mind consistency is more important than average accuracy. If torque wrench 1 is set to 80 and hits 83 every time and torque wrench 2 is set to 80 and averages that 80 perfectly by hitting 75-85 all the time, you always want the first one, if that makes sense. HF might be great for the money but, again mixed bag thing, you don't get even close to the same QC/calibration for a $15-$20 torque wrench as you would on a $120 one. Plus what that review doesn't tell you is that the ratcheting mechanism in the HF torque wrenches is garbage and prone to breaking.

 

[ajchien]

I've got the HF torque sticks too. I use them with the ryobi 18v 1/2" impact wrench that supposedly puts out 200ft/lbs. . I'm sure you probably shouldn't blindly trust them, so your own testing. For my set up, if I use them and I stop when the impact starts hammering - it's all over the place, and often too loose. However, if I let the impact hammer for 2+ seconds I'm pretty much on target. And I always double check with a torque wrench. I'd say that if you had a more powerful impact than my wimpy ryobi, your technique would likely be a bit different.

 

[malykaii]

Seems like torque sticks followed by a torque wrench would often fail. For a torque wrench to be accurate, you have to overcome static friction (the fastener starts to move) to measure the torque during kinetic friction. For example if the torque stick tightened to 85 and you wanted 90, your torque wrench might click before the nut ever turned.

This is why things like heads that are progressively torqued, have relatively large jumps. You need to measure the torque while the nut is moving.

Exactly what I was trying to say.

 

[malykaii]

Didn't get any results.

Sorry, fallacy.



Just watch the news after that and you'll see just how illogical it is.

 

[wjamyers]

I'll chime in here with my shade-tree, amateur-hour knowledge base.

I used them with the 1/2" earthquake to put the wheels on my car WITHOUT finishing the job with a torque wrench. BIG mistake. I nearly lost a wheel, luckily I drive my car fully engaged with the task at hand, noticed the wobble and pulled over.

NEVER rely on the torque stick, they're for not over-torqueing while using an impact to tighten. set them low and finish the job with the torque wrench.

 

[Adam.C]

Just remember: torque is irrelevant. All that matters is preload. And preload varies with friction for any given applied torque.

So before you spend big on torque tools, make sure you are working clean and applying the correct lubricants. Remember there's no such thing as a dry torque value.

As to the difference between brands of torque wrenches, technique plays a significant role the accuracy of the system.

 

[sberry]

Just remember: torque is irrelevant. All that matters is preload. And preload varies with friction for any given applied torque.

So before you spend big on torque tools, make sure you are working clean and applying the correct lubricants. Remember there's no such thing as a dry torque value.

This is worth repeating.

 

[sberry]

Just remember: torque is irrelevant. All that matters is preload. And preload varies with friction for any given applied torque.

So before you spend big on torque tools, make sure you are working clean and applying the correct lubricants. Remember there's no such thing as a dry torque value.

I will do it again.

 

[KenC]

i think what they mean when they "check" it with a torque wrench is when they use the wrench on the lug nut after hitting it with the impact/stick and they get little/no movement before the click

a little movement before click is ideal IMO i'm not expecting the stick to land me right at my desired torque but to simply keep me from going over

exactly! Not a pro, used to be, but not anymore. I use a torque stick of the next lower rating that I'm targeting, then finish with the real torque wrench. So, I always get a little movement.

 

[Adam.C]

You can't use a torque wrench to inspect torque. And there's no easy other way to check preload. That's why its important to do it right the first time.

When you apply a torque wrench to a tightened bolt, if the bolt starts moving at say, 120ftlbs, you might be led to believe the bolt was initially torqued to just under that- say 110-115ftlbs. But you'd be wrong. The reason is, static friction could be significant. So that bolt could have been torqued to say, 80-100ftlbs. Possible some cases it could be less.

Likewise, I doubt any of you have the necessary equipment to check or calibrate your torque sticks. At a minimum, you'd have to strain gage the bolt. There are specialist devices- not sure if anyone has one. Anybody who tells you they can check their torque sticks with a torque wrench doesn't know what they are talking about.

Oh, and fatigue weakens metal like Aluminum. Steel doesn't fatigue under a certain limit. My guess is torque sticks would work harden over time and transmit more torque than they should.

I'd like to have a set to torque lugs to 50ftlbs, so I could finish with a torque wrench. But if that's the case, what do I care if I stop my impact at 35 lbs, or 75ftlbs. So I just use a light touch. If the wrench beeps or clicks before the lug moves, I simply back it off and try again.

I think torque sticks are for the "good enough" crowd. I doubt i will ever use one. The time they save doesn't matter to me and I prefer the piece of mind my torque wrench gives me.

 

[gearhead1]

Just remember: torque is irrelevant. All that matters is preload. And preload varies with friction for any given applied torque.

So before you spend big on torque tools, make sure you are working clean and applying the correct lubricants. Remember there's no such thing as a dry torque value.

As to the difference between brands of torque wrenches, technique plays a significant role the accuracy of the system.

Torque is irrelevant, I didn't know that. We should get rid of our torque wrenches then? Why bother have them right?

Preload varies with friction for any given applied torque. So if I understand you correctly, the torque values would be the same on say 10 bolts, but the preload will be different. I think we want even preload across the 10 bolts, right? So how do we do that?

 

[gearhead1]

You can't use a torque wrench to inspect torque. And there's no easy other way to check preload.

What about an ultrasonic bolt gage?

 

[Coopduc]

Preload varies with friction for any given applied torque. So if I understand you correctly, the torque values would be the same on say 10 bolts, but the preload will be different. I think we want even preload across the 10 bolts, right? So how do we do that?

There are several ways, the most common is the torque plus angle method. Apply a low torque just enough to get the surfaces in contact, then turn to an angle. The angle and the thread pitch will determine the amount of preload.

Another way to get uniform torque is to apply a lubricant such as anti sieze compound to all friction surfaces, threads, both washer faces, under bolt heads, and nut face, then apply the torque.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I hate anti seize. Am I the only one?

 

[gearhead1]

Another way to get uniform torque is to apply a lubricant such as anti sieze compound to all friction surfaces, threads, both washer faces, under bolt heads, and nut face, then apply the torque.

I saw this done and the bolts broke before getting to the proper torque on some flywheel bolts. Happened on several engines.

 

[gearhead1]

There are several ways, the most common is the torque plus angle method. Apply a low torque just enough to get the surfaces in contact, then turn to an angle. The angle and the thread pitch will determine the amount of preload.

So what should the initial torque be on my car that requires 100 ft lbs, and what angle should I use?

 

[Coopduc]

The question I answered was how to minimize preload variation in a multiple bolt pattern.

The question of converting a simple torque value to a torque plus angle, can't be answered without knowing the details of the joint design, surface coatings of the various components, initial guidelines for preparation of the fasteners,etc.

Regarding the broken flywheel bolts, the torque spec was likely set assuming clean, dry threads. Lubing the threads reduces friction and therefore increasing the preload (strain) to a level above the ultimate tensile strength of the bolt.

 

[The Toolest Guy]

How many of you actually read the instructions? Both sets of torque sticks I have come with specific instructions for accurate use. This includes gun specs, air specs, and time while impacting.

 

[404]

You can't use a torque wrench to inspect torque. And there's no easy other way to check preload. That's why its important to do it right the first time.

When you apply a torque wrench to a tightened bolt, if the bolt starts moving at say, 120ftlbs, you might be led to believe the bolt was initially torqued to just under that- say 110-115ftlbs. But you'd be wrong. The reason is, static friction could be significant. So that bolt could have been torqued to say, 80-100ftlbs. Possible some cases it could be less.

Likewise, I doubt any of you have the necessary equipment to check or calibrate your torque sticks. At a minimum, you'd have to strain gage the bolt. There are specialist devices- not sure if anyone has one. Anybody who tells you they can check their torque sticks with a torque wrench doesn't know what they are talking about.

Oh, and fatigue weakens metal like Aluminum. Steel doesn't fatigue under a certain limit. My guess is torque sticks would work harden over time and transmit more torque than they should.

I'd like to have a set to torque lugs to 50ftlbs, so I could finish with a torque wrench. But if that's the case, what do I care if I stop my impact at 35 lbs, or 75ftlbs. So I just use a light touch. If the wrench beeps or clicks before the lug moves, I simply back it off and try again.

I think torque sticks are for the "good enough" crowd. I doubt i will ever use one. The time they save doesn't matter to me and I prefer the piece of mind my torque wrench gives me.

Fatigue in Al creates cracks. There is no lower limit where cracks will not occur eventually after enough cycles.
The fatigue stress limit for steel half the yield strength.
Young's modulus does not change with hardness/heat treat.
Work hardening only happens with plastic deformation, which is (hopefully) outside the operating range of the torque stick.

Agree that using a low value stick and finishing with torque wrench is ideal.

 

[Shadowdog500]

How many of you actually read the instructions? Both sets of torque sticks I have come with specific instructions for accurate use. This includes gun specs, air specs, and time while impacting.

Harbor Freight torque limiting extensions don't come with instructions!!!

I'm not joking. They don't have any instructions.

Chris

 

[The Toolest Guy]

Further on my previous statement. Here is a link to a document that has instructions.
http://www.procutinternational.com/pdf/old_pdf/Torqstik_Chart.pdf
Quote to note from this .pdf (note these instructions are only applicable to the specific torque sticks referenced)
"TorqStik is designed to work only with pneumatic impact wrenches with output of 250 ft*lbs.
Do not use a TorqStik until you have checked to determine that the impact gun has the
output listed above."

Another one which lists air pressure to be used.
http://www.kentool.com/images/instruction-manuals/110197-torquesticks-extensions.pdf
Quote "Our torque sockets are calibrated to an impact gun of 250 ft./lbs. with 90-100 lbs. of air inlet pressure. Since most shop impact guns vary from 100 ft./lbs. to 600 ft./lbs. with air inlet pressure all over the dial, a simple calibration must be performed so torque accuracy will be uniform with whichever torque socket you will use"
Goes on to provide instructions for calibration.

This is how torque sticks should be used in my opinion. With instructions from the manufacturer.

 

[jd_1138]

Harbor Freight torque limiting extensions don't come with instructions!!!

I'm not joking. They don't have any instructions.

Chris

Ugh.

Put me in the camp that says to spend a little more on the Snap-On set like the other poster suggested. $100 versus $55. In the large scheme of things, not really a large difference in price.

3 out of 7 reviews are for 1 star on the HF website.

 

[jonti48310]

Ugh.

Put me in the camp that says to spend a little more on the Snap-On set like the other poster suggested. $100 versus $55. In the large scheme of things, not really a large difference in price.

3 out of 7 reviews are for 1 star on the HF website.

Where are you guys finding Snap-On torque sticks for $100?!?

 

[Shadowdog500]

Ugh.

Put me in the camp that says to spend a little more on the Snap-On set like the other poster suggested. $100 versus $55. In the large scheme of things, not really a large difference in price.

3 out of 7 reviews are for 1 star on the HF website.

Where are you guys finding Snap-On torque sticks for $100?!?

+1! Where are you getting a $388 set of snap on torque sticks for $100?

Hopefully not from the Mig welder guy on E-bay!

The other 4 of the 7 harbor freight reviews were all 5 stars!



Chris

 

[Shadowdog500]

My snap on set was only $100

Where did you get a new set of $388 Snap On torque sticks for $100?

I want to buy a set with the same deal you got.

Chris

 

[Adam.C]

There are several ways, the most common is the torque plus angle method. Apply a low torque just enough to get the surfaces in contact, then turn to an angle. The angle and the thread pitch will determine the amount of preload.

Another way to get uniform torque is to apply a lubricant such as anti sieze compound to all friction surfaces, threads, both washer faces, under bolt heads, and nut face, then apply the torque.

Yes. You are 100% correct. This was done by manufacturers because torquing fasteners with a wrench was found not to produce acceptable preload.

This is used for high torque fasteners and preload critical fastners (most notably head bolts) to reduce the effect of friction.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

Last I knew most dealerships had the policy of either using torque sticks or a torque wrench. Those of you saying you never or never should use torque sticks to reach final torque on a wheel... Get off your high horse, they have been tried and proven. This is not rocket science. Tighten the nut with a torque stick and every couple months double check a few with a torque wrench.

I say to each his own on this as long as you check with something. Piece of mind goes a long way.

Snap on torque sticks ARE NOT 100 bucks. Stop saying they are. Maybe 100 each.

And please tell me... What the hell do you need a 3/4 air hose hooked up to a 1/2 gun for? That doesn't even make sense. What else do you use that line for? What kind of adapters do you have rigged onto the end of that line to even use on a 1/4 fitting tool? You do know that air line is measured by id correct? My mind is blown thinking of even trying to use a 1/2 line on a regular 1/4 fitting tool.

 

[WhiffySpark]

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675866&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

They go on sale for around $100

 

[WhiffySpark]

Last I knew most dealerships had the policy of either using torque sticks or a torque wrench. Those of you saying you never or never should use torque sticks to reach final torque on a wheel... Get off your high horse, they have been tried and proven. This is not rocket science. Tighten the nut with a torque stick and every couple months double check a few with a torque wrench.

I say to each his own on this as long as you check with something. Piece of mind goes a long way.

Snap on torque sticks ARE NOT 100 bucks. Stop saying they are. Maybe 100 each.

And please tell me... What the hell do you need a 3/4 air hose hooked up to a 1/2 gun for? That doesn't even make sense. What else do you use that line for? What kind of adapters do you have rigged onto the end of that line to even use on a 1/4 fitting tool? You do know that air line is measured by id correct? My mind is blown thinking of even trying to use a 1/2 line on a regular 1/4 fitting tool.

We have 1 inch steel like with a 3/4 hose at our other shop. We have a 1/2 step down whip hose to use a 1/2 gun on it