schor
Well-known member
Some rods move, some don't. Most of the jacobs keys I have do not move.
Atlas 1020 drill press refresh, keep or replace this old electra motor
- Thread starter shannonw
- Start date
Some rods move, some don't. Most of the jacobs keys I have do not move.
Still fine tuning, drill’s been running, vibration much better after getting a correctly sized belt, but today I noticed I could move the spindle up and down a bit and it would move thru the lower bearing. I figure all the penetrant and finally running the drill loosened that up along with wear on the race so should go ahead and tackle that. Hopefully it’s just that and not spindle wear.
Removed the quill, and I removed the spindle from the quill and the lock nut pretty easy.
But i’m not sure how to get the bearings out of the quill? any tips there?
Removed the quill, and I removed the spindle from the quill and the lock nut pretty easy.
But i’m not sure how to get the bearings out of the quill? any tips there?
schor
Well-known member
Don't know that press exactly but a bit of up and down is ok but can usually be taken up by positioning and tightening a collar or two.
Hi steve, yeah i was thinking that too, the bottom collar gets pinned in so you can’t really adjust that to prevent upward movement, the top is a set screw so that would stop downward.
But I’m thinking here there’s a good chance with all the penetrant and banging, putting the chuck back on i loosened that press fit up as there was a good 1/4-1/2 inch of movement up thru the bearing. Looks to get the bearings out i’ll need about a 12” or so steel rod to act as a drift and catch the inside edge of the bearings from the other end to knock each end out.
what i’ll do is clean the shaft, remove residual oil, reassemble and see how things go this week. At least i got it to where i know what to replace and inspect on that end.
Not much on the update wise, found some rivits for the identification tags from a local ace store those were easy split rivits just tapped them in, and got the drill press table assembled (just an older pinnacle basic one that was in a batch of wood working stuff I picked up off craigslist from a guy getting rid of a bunch of stuff)
Dial indicator should arrive tomorrow to check runout, and help adjust that a bit easier, i’m sure that’s mostly going to be adjusting the chuck on the taper fit.
But I’m thinking here there’s a good chance with all the penetrant and banging, putting the chuck back on i loosened that press fit up as there was a good 1/4-1/2 inch of movement up thru the bearing. Looks to get the bearings out i’ll need about a 12” or so steel rod to act as a drift and catch the inside edge of the bearings from the other end to knock each end out.
what i’ll do is clean the shaft, remove residual oil, reassemble and see how things go this week. At least i got it to where i know what to replace and inspect on that end.
Not much on the update wise, found some rivits for the identification tags from a local ace store those were easy split rivits just tapped them in, and got the drill press table assembled (just an older pinnacle basic one that was in a batch of wood working stuff I picked up off craigslist from a guy getting rid of a bunch of stuff)
Dial indicator should arrive tomorrow to check runout, and help adjust that a bit easier, i’m sure that’s mostly going to be adjusting the chuck on the taper fit.
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schor
Well-known member
She looks great Shannon.
I see what you mean on quill reassembly there i can move the top collar down to take up the slack below. I’ll try that, i can move the shaft about 1/4 of an inch back and forth without the collars locking that movement down.
looking i see some slight wear (light ridge) on the spindle shaft at the bearings and i’m sure there’s some wear on the inner bearing surfaces and that’s enough to allow that shaft to slide back and forth 1/4 inch.
I’ll reassemble and next week when i’m not using it a few days tear it down again and get those quill bearings out somehow. Hopefully new bearings will help some of that can’t do much about the spindle shaft wear there.
looking i see some slight wear (light ridge) on the spindle shaft at the bearings and i’m sure there’s some wear on the inner bearing surfaces and that’s enough to allow that shaft to slide back and forth 1/4 inch.
I’ll reassemble and next week when i’m not using it a few days tear it down again and get those quill bearings out somehow. Hopefully new bearings will help some of that can’t do much about the spindle shaft wear there.
yeah not good. reassembled tonight and noise... i’m certain that’s the shaft spinning in the quill bearings...just too much slop there. Not enough adjustment on the collars to reposition to a good part of the shaft. Possibly new bearings will take up some of the tolerance but i can see and feel a groove there on the shaft as well, it’s slight but there.
I think that’s going to mean locating another shaft or machining for a different size bearing. Problem with those on ebay is sellers sell the whole quill and you don’t know the condition of the spindle shaft.
Maybe new bearings and some locktite will work until a shaft appears.
I think that’s going to mean locating another shaft or machining for a different size bearing. Problem with those on ebay is sellers sell the whole quill and you don’t know the condition of the spindle shaft.
Maybe new bearings and some locktite will work until a shaft appears.
Bit more inspection this morning...i’m thinking there’s a chance i could still use the shaft since i can remove the shaft thru the quill with no tools just by hand with some pretty light force, but there’s is shaft wear top is the worst ..but being able to slide the shaft out by hand with some force tells me most of the wear is the bearings but that top might be iffy we’ll see.
Quill bearing removal was easy, 2 minutes...just used a socket extension to knock out each side.
I’ll try some new bearings first.
Quill bearing removal was easy, 2 minutes...just used a socket extension to knock out each side.
I’ll try some new bearings first.
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Another possible option is to see if bearings with a wider inner race is available. Used in conjunction with Loctite could work well. It likely would depend on the size of the spindle, i.e. special 5/8 bore and what clearance it requires. Images are from Accurate Bearing.
Boy that’s a good idea. I’ll have to look. There’s about 5/8 wear on the shaft where it moved in it’s previous life.
Even if i do that for just the top, bottom may be ok it’s pretty slight wear there. The bearing is wore for sure i can freely move it up and down the whole shaft. But maybe original bearing on the bottom, wide bearing up top (taller?), locktite....i bet that would work.
easier to locate some on ebay, they’re on ebay with the handles usually, just have to mail the seller to double check the length which is what i did. Check craftsmen, atlas,etc
So far so good.
Ordered new quill and spindle bearings from accurate bearing (easy folk to deal with, sure beats trying to decode all of the bearing numbers to other brands). bearings were still a bit loose in those spun areas but better than the original ones.
If i had time i would have ordered the locktite stuff for spun bearings, that certainly would have been good enough, but had some normal blue stuff handy and so far that seems to be working, been drilling hinge cups no problems or noise. At some point i’ll probably remove it and put the other locktite on.
Tested runout and was good on the spindle, with the chuck on and a freud forstner chucked up testing at the top of the shaft i was reading a few thou, good enough for me!
Ordered new quill and spindle bearings from accurate bearing (easy folk to deal with, sure beats trying to decode all of the bearing numbers to other brands). bearings were still a bit loose in those spun areas but better than the original ones.
If i had time i would have ordered the locktite stuff for spun bearings, that certainly would have been good enough, but had some normal blue stuff handy and so far that seems to be working, been drilling hinge cups no problems or noise. At some point i’ll probably remove it and put the other locktite on.
Tested runout and was good on the spindle, with the chuck on and a freud forstner chucked up testing at the top of the shaft i was reading a few thou, good enough for me!