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Attached Shop Suggestions; Layout & Finishing

D45

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My Attached Garage "Build"; 65'x18'

Awesome site.........long time lurker, first time poster......

I have an attachéd20'x20' garage for vehicles.....my company vehicle stays on the street, always

61' x 15' according to the survey

I get 65' x 18', but what ever

100 AMP sub panel,with 60 amp breaker feeding it from the main 200 amp house panel.......4 of the 6 breaker slots are used

The garage is about half wired with outlets, more to come for sure

The shop lights all need to be replaced.....old school T12s

Ceiling joist are about 110" tall


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Air compressor, 3 tool boxes (6' tall), band saw, drill press, welder, ladders, etc

I definitely need an attached work bench with 4-5 wall mounted cabinets

I also have a 3'x4' rolling table

Looking for layout suggestions..........I will be adding rolls of paper faced R13 insulation in one week

Still need to decide on wall panels.....NOT DRYWALL!!

I am leaning towards ribbed/corrugated metal sheetings
 
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D45

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Re: Attached Shop Suggestions

The "Shop" area was built by the previously owner, which was built onto the side of the house

The shop area has the front 8' tall garage door and a rear 8' tall door on the backside.......both doors are the nicer double walled insulated doors, not just the cheapo thin aluminum open channel type

The shop is divided into two sections, separated by a sliding barn door style door. The rear area will soley be used for the outside lawn, yard, and landscaping tools and items for the pool



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D45

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Re: Attached Shop Suggestions

Got my HF welding cart put together ......works great for $30

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D45

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Re: Attached Shop Suggestions

Found some great free stuff for the garage..... Georgia Pacific towel dispenser and many roll refills

2" thick solid slate tables in three sizes, some with steel bases and one with wood....insanely heavy as ****!!!!!!!!

One is large and is 4'x5.5'......the two others are 41"x21"

Also found some commercial grade steel shelving units for free......

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D45

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Re: Attached Shop Suggestions

I am ready to start insulating in two weeks for my 10 day vacation

I have 78 studs (2x4) at 8'3" tall (cavity) and then another small section of 9 studs at
3'3" tall (cavity)

I am really leaning towards R-13 paper faced rolls , since they are $9.19 each

Does this make sense:

673 linear feet needed

I roll of R13 is 32' long

So I would need 21 or 22 rolls of insulation?
 
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D45

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Re: Attached Shop Suggestions

The steel frame for one of the slate top chemistry lab tables I have, use threaded/adjustable feet

After some heat and penetrant spray, I took all four of the threaded feet off


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I figure by the time the 200 pound slate top is installed on the steel frame, I would NOT be able to easily move it

My plan: To install some heavy duty lockable swivel casters, with the threaded stem

Going caster shopping this week.........hope to find something local with a good weight rating
 
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D45

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Re: Attached Shop Suggestions

I bought a decent used drill press off CL for $100!!!

It will definitely work for my needs and the price was great

It looks like the PO only used it for small jobs and only work working

The motor looks brand new and there was not any dust or debris inside

The belts looked to be in great shape

Craftsman 137.229150
15"
5/8"
1 HP
12 Speeds
250 - 3100 RPM
0-45 degree table tilt

Motor is very quiet and other than some minor surface rust its good to go!

I had to buy new "worm gear" tooth strip on the column, which adjusts the platform up and down...........because it was broke in half and was only half of its original length.

This part was only $30

Came with the chuck key and two allen wrenches
 
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D45

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url=http://www.hhmetalproducts.com/home]H&H Metal Products, Inc.[/url]

Found a cheap retailer about 15 miles away for steel roofing sheets

$1.88 a linear foot
 
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D45

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Any suggestions on what to put where......going to start insulating Saturday!
 

pattenp

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I take it you are in the US and I assume no building inspection was done for the shop addition. It does not look like it meets building code for fire protection to the adjacent living area. Ceiling and adjacent wall to living space should have at least 5/8" drywall.
 
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D45

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I take it you are in the US and I assume no building inspection was done for the shop addition. It does not look like it meets building code for fire protection to the adjacent living area. Ceiling and adjacent wall to living space should have at least 5/8" drywall.

Yes..... in the ole USA

Yes.....building inspection was done, thanks for your concern
 
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D45

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Everything is insulated and stapled

Going to order the metal panels and some wood siding (to match the enclosed patio) tomorrow

I bought 25 rolls of insulation and have to return 3 rolls
 
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D45

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The metal panels are all installed, needed 16 sheets for the main 45' long wall

I am very pleased with how this turned out for $700.....the metal panels look great and are unique. With the self tapping screws for the corrugated panels, the install was cake.

I have 16" OC studs, and the 24 gauge metal panels are very rigid....no flex

The panels are dipped also, not raw steel........so they are a tad shiny and have a smooth feel

I used OSB for the back 12x15 section of the shop, which I painted with 3 coats of white primer
 
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D45

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Made a rolling, locking caster cart for my old 110v compressor and plumbed in a ball valve for the drain (best thing I've ever done)

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D45

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The slate tables?

From a local high school's chemistry lab

They are about 1" thick and EXTREMELY heavy
 
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D45

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This hoist is bad ***

Even came with the owners manual from 1974

Sealed, Oil bath lubricated motor with actual bearings

The 1/4" cable has seen better days, but that's a simple and easy fix

Total weight is only 40 pounds

Lifts 1,200 on a single line

Gear reduction is 533:1

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D45

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Trying to think about a beam/trolly/hoist setup for my shop

I found this pic online, and like the idea of running the beam length-wise down the center of the shop, supported across many ceiling joists

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Any issues with running the beam this way?
 

rancherbill

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Any issues with running the beam this way?

No, but realize when you are the end of the beam your lift capacity is substantially decreased. The end is only supported by just the end fasteners.

It raises my eyebrows for two different reasons. My oldest son would see the I Beam and think he could lift 3-4 tons with it especially seeing the chain hoist. He would not think of de-rating the lift at the end of the beam. My other son, the engineer, would spew facts, figures, dynamic loading, formulas, standards etc. ad nauseaum, and say it was only good for 500-1000 pounds.
 
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D45

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Good point(s) with the end(s) of the beam

I am just not sure I like all the weight being held up by a single ceiling joist

Not like I will be using for 1,000+ pounds anyways
 
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D45

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The shed is coming along, maybe another 3-4 weeks and I can empty on ton of stuff out of my garage

I did find a nice score in Craigslist, two TrippLite Power Strips for $60

They sell for $80 each and will be a nice addition to the outer walls, for power access

PS7224-20 Vertical Power Strip 20A 120V

http://www.tripplite.com/power-strip-24-outlets-15-ft-cord-20a-vertical~PS722420/

▪ 24 outlets
▪ Convenient and safe covered, on/off switch
▪ 20-amp circuit breaker
▪ 15 ft. cord
▪ 72" length
 
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D45

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Here is the link to my 10x12 shed build

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244568

When it is all done, within the next 2-3 weeks.......I can clear about 1/3 of the junk out of my garage

All the hunting, yard work, lawn care stuff, pool items will be out of the garage and into the shed

Here are some more pics of the attached additional garage, cool idea by the previous owner

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This is taken from inside the enclosed patio......this is the door leading down (2 steps) into the additional garage/shop

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D45

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Here are some pics from inside the sop, showing the front and back section, both of which have their own insulated garage doors and openers

I like the sliding door feature too

It is a complete disaster!

Main shop:

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D45

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The sliding door that separates the garage into two sections

Looking from the main shop area into the smaller area:

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Looking from the small area to the door, which leads into the large shop area:

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Some pics of the small area, which is also packed full

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IMG_20141013_181900_561_zpsmdeiyfnu.jpg
 
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D45

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Does anyone else hoard scrap wood that is left over from projects and have a hard time throwing it away?

If so, how do you store it, so its out of the way, yet still neat and orderly?

Or.......just chill out and throw it out?
 
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D45

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I painted the wall siding that I installed in the enclosed patio (and the common wall in the garage, and in the garage surrounding the garage door.

Yes, I insulated behind the siding panels

Sherwin Williams was able to scan and color the pre-existing red about perfectly

They also tinted the primer I used


Before and after


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DeadSock

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Does anyone else hoard scrap wood that is left over from projects and have a hard time throwing it away?

If so, how do you store it, so its out of the way, yet still neat and orderly?

Or.......just chill out and throw it out?

I used to hoard it. Now I pile it during dry season, whatever didn't get picked from for a year got dumped in spring. Repeat.
 
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D45

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I hope to get a ton done in the garage over the next 3 weeks

The shed will be done next weekend and filled up.........so the garage can be cleaned out!

I am going to build a rack for my two long extension ladders, so they are tucked up high in the corner of the garage. I plan on using 2x4s and running them down the wall, from the rafters and create a box for the ladders to slide into
 
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D45

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I am designing and making a bunch of wall mounted shelving out of 2x4s, for storage tots and long(er) term storage

Would you guys suggest using an framing nailer to speed things up .............or drill and screw the 2x4s?
 
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D45

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My shop is basically wired with white coated Romex

What is the diff between the white coated Romex and the yellow coated Romex?

I would love to redo it with conduit, but that's not cost effect for me

Most of the Romex was ran poorly, across the ceiling beams and all over the place

I would love to redo it this winter, using longer pieced of wire that was hidden ontop of or on the sides of the exposed ceiling boards

Anything I need to know when looking at Romex for ceiling lights?

I assume I need 3 wire, right?

10/3 246' NMD-90 w/Ground
12/3 246' NMD-90 w/Ground
14/3 246' NMD-90 w/Ground
10-3 15' NM Wire with Ground
12-3 15' NM Wire with Ground
 
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D45

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I got sick of walking around and moving 5 ladders, so I built a rack for all of them tonight

Tucked up high on the wall for the two extensions ladders and I added hooks for the 8' and 10'

Much better now........there is also a smaller 4' ladder hanging on the wall, its just hidden


Tomorrow I am going to start hanging cabinets and building more shelves

Self drilling 3" Grip Right screws with T25 Torx head and my impact driver is soooooooooooooooooooooo nice

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D45

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I just bought a new 24 circuit, 100 amp rated subpanel and a bunch of 12/2 Romex

Time to shop around for T8 fixtures or T8 ballasts, to replace all my T12 lights
 
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D45

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I am going to make a long storage shelf, running high up on the same wall as the ladder rack

Similar design too, just will be meant for storage totes..........high up on the wall and out of the wall, yet still accessible

The wood hanging from the roof will be 2x4s, while to the horizontal wood will be 2x6s

I bought four 2x6x10 boards, so that I can make two long shelves, evenly spaced out along the wall

I plan on making them 2' wide, so I can buy the precut 2' wide OSB.......I am thinking 1/2" thick. The precut 2' wide OSB will save me so much time not having to cut everything

A 1/2" 2'x4' piece is $4.50
A 3/4" 2'x'4' piece is $6.50

I might go with the 3/4" for strength and not have to worry about sagging, even though it will just get totes with misc junk like camping, painting supplies, etc.....nothing heavy
 
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D45

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I started on the two, 12 foot long sections for the storage shelf

Did not get too far, had to watch the little one

I left about 12" of space between the last shelf and the wall, for a quad outlet

I also spaced the two out about 18" from each other, again, for a quad outlet

I need to get some OSB this week, and find another 2 hours to finish the shelves

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Lassen Forge

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I left the reflector off one of my 4 bulb 4 ft T5HO to see what would happen, and it lit up the roof of my shop nicely, but I put it back on as I wanted the light where I could use it. IMO it does make a difference, as more of the light ends up down on the bench and floor, rather than lighting up my rafters and steel roof.

I switched from (originally) dim and dingy T-12's to T-8s (because of the T-12 phase out - no regrets there!)... then saw a shop running T5-HO bulbs, and was so impressed I bit the bullet and swapped mine out. It was like going from household lighting to having daylight in my shop. Yeah, they're a little more pricey than T-8s, but it was worth every penny being able to see everything everywhere! The T8's sold on Craigs, and got part of the $$$ back, but if I knew ahead of time, I would have went directly to the T5's and saved the money.
 
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