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Attaching to LVL

bluedog225

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I’m planning on putting in a one by six shiplap or similar ceiling on the place. The roof structure consists of 16 inch LVL’s. I’ll have about 14 inches of blown into cellulose in between the LVL’s.

Would you attach directly to the bottom of the LVLs?

The center beams run 24 feet across the room. I’m hesitant to drill anything into the bottom of them. I was thinking of marrying 2 x 4s to the side with deck screws and PL premium. Then attaching my one by four strips to the sacrificial 2x4. And then attaching the shiplap to the one by four strips with 15 gauge brad nails. Or screws if that’s necessary.

Weyerhaeuser has published info for these LVLs. But it still doesn’t sit right.

What do you guys think?

ps-I’ve put in full height blocking at the midpoint since this photo taken.



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IMG_5215.jpeg
 
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jack stand

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I'd shoot the shiplap right on the LVL's with a siding gun and full headed coil nailer.
1x6 might be a little "busy" and I'd also think about a 1x8 or even 1x10. That's a personal choice and obviously up to your wife. 😉
Inevitably there will be shrinkage in the width and the once "pretty tight" long joints will open up and become a focal point.
That's a heck of a roof framing job you have there.👍
 
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bluedog225

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I'd shoot the shiplap right on the LVL's with a siding gun and full headed coil nailer.
1x6 might be a little "busy" and I'd also think about a 1x8 or even 1x10. That's a personal choice and obviously up to your wife. 😉
Inevitably there will be shrinkage in the width and the once "pretty tight" long joints will open up and become a focal point.
That's a heck of a roof framing job you have there.👍

I’m not good with the aesthetics of this stuff. Thanks for the tip on width. Candidly, she doesn’t care. Just wants it done.

I thought these were not put up with full head nails. Since they show and would need to be lined up pretty good.

Agree on the shrinkage. Hoping to get the place air conditioned and dry the material out well before placing, and nail it tight. Maybe that will help.
 

The Cobbler

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is the ship lap when nailed perpendicular to the bottom of the LVL's oriented in a pleasing direction ( then I would nail directly to them) or would it look better oriented the other way ? ( then I would strap them & nail to that
 

abfish

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If you'd like to install the shiplap parallel to the LVL's, you could install 1x4 strapping across the LVL's and then nail to the strapping. That's a detail used for drywall in the northeast.
 
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bluedog225

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is the ship lap when nailed perpendicular to the bottom of the LVL's oriented in a pleasing direction ( then I would nail directly to them) or would it look better oriented the other way ? ( then I would strap them & nail to that

roughly half and half. I’m planning to run it perpendicular to the central, full length beams.

I’m not really worried about the outriggers.

IMG_5220.jpeg
 
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jack stand

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I’m not good with the aesthetics of this stuff. Thanks for the tip on width. Candidly, she doesn’t care. Just wants it done.

I thought these were not put up with full head nails. Since they show and would need to be lined up pretty good.

Agree on the shrinkage. Hoping to get the place air conditioned and dry the material out well before placing, and nail it tight. Maybe that will help.
If you have some nice clear boards you might not want the "utility" look of face nails.
I happen to be doing the same but with "industrial" grade 1x8 shiplap pine that I get from a local mill for just under 50c a board ft.
I like the price and the knots and defects that adds character.
For some reason I can't add pictures for an example. My "file does not have an allowed extension" whatever the f*** that means is what's shown in the place of each picture.
 
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bluedog225

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If you have some nice clear boards you might not want the "utility" look of face nails.
I happen to be doing the same but with "industrial" grade 1x8 shiplap pine that I get from a local mill for just under 50c a board ft.
I like the price and the knots and defects that adds character.
For some reason I can't add pictures for an example. My "file does not have an allowed extension" whatever the f*** that means is what's shown in the place of each picture.
Hope you get it worked out. I’d like to see that.
 

Hank11

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LVLs are harder to drive nails in than typical SPF framing lumber. I think your best chance to make a neat and tidy job of this is to fur out with softer lumber.
 

Stuart in MN

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I'd think using shiplap on a ceiling would require nails on both edges of the board. While the nails on the one side would be concealed by the next board, they would be exposed on the other. Tongue and groove may be a better choice, there won't be any exposed nails since you only drive nails through the tongue and the other edge is supported by the groove interlocking with the tongue on the next board.

When I was a kid my dad built us a lake cabin. It had a tongue and groove ceiling that was beautiful.
 
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