Auto Batteries

[1967ChevyRagtop]

Need recommendations on dependable batteries.
Recently exchanged a 2mo old DuraLast for a DieHard, one month ago. It was deader than a hammer this am in 15F temps. That's the 2nd,well 3rd, AutoDie in the past 6mos.

No evident parasitic drain. They didn't even check 'em, just swapped 'em out. Remember the DieHard commercials from the '60s where they left the cars with lights on? Guess they aren't the same.

So what is a good battery.
thanks
bg

 

[theoldwizard1]

No evident parasitic drain.

I don't care what anyone says, you have a parasitic draw !

Which Car Battery is Best? Let's find out!

Price does not mean much.



The Duracell battery sold at Sam's Club is made by East Penn and is likely identical to the O'Reilly's battery but sells for about $100.

 

[Firebrick43]

High amp hour batteries for a given size will always have a shorter life. Use as large as case as possible and pick the heaviest one. High amp hour batteries have pierced and expanded plates for greater surface area.. Unfortunately this causes lower life than solid plates. They also wear through the fiberglass divider plates faster than solid plates causing dead shorts.

 

[unslow1]

There are only about 3 battery manufacturers. It sounds like the vehicle has a problem.

 

[theoldwizard1]

High amp hour batteries for a given size will always have a shorter life.

I call BS ! The quick way to compare batteries is by weight. Heavier batteries in the same BCI Group (Group 27 in the video above) will have more power. Durability depends on maintenance.

 

[1967ChevyRagtop]

Wiz,
Thanks for reply.
I agree, but I cannot isolate it.
Battery disconnected; MM across terminals; brake switch disconnected, etc. Thought it was bed light. It's like it is intermittent.
Maybe I'll just put a cutoff like on my Chevelle.

FWIW it is 2003 Tundra (red)
bg

 

[unslow1]

That year of Toyota might forget it's idle once disconnected. I can't remember what year that started with them. I know the 2007 models will.

 

[Firebrick43]

High amp hour batteries for a given size will always have a shorter life. Use as large as case as possible and pick the heaviest one. High amp hour batteries have pierced and expanded plates for greater surface area.. Unfortunately this causes lower life than solid plates. They also wear through the fiberglass divider plates faster than solid plates causing dead shorts.

I call BS ! The quick way to compare batteries is by weight. Heavier batteries in the same BCI Group (Group 27 in the video above) will have more power. Durability depends on maintenance.

I did mention picking the heaviest one?

As far as CCA by weight.

To keep things equal used interstate.

Deep cycles have solid plates normally for long life. However this results in 600 cca for a group 27 battery. It weights 50.3 pounds. https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/srm-27

A premium starting battery has 810 cca and weights 49 lbs.
https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mt-27?productLine=auto&subcategoryKey=&ignorecategoryid=true
Pretty good actually for as high of cranking amps

But group 27 batteries are a poor point as they are relatively rare as a modern starting battery in care. Even size 24 are large now.

Size 24 premium interstate with same 600 cca as the deep cycle only weights 41 lbs.
https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mt-24?productLine=auto&subcategoryKey=&ignorecategoryid=true

Or a size 75 battery with 700 cca only weights 34.5 lbs.
https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mt-78?productLine=auto&subcategoryKey=&ignorecategoryid=true

If I picked cheaper brand batteries and not the premium line of interstate the difference would be more pronounced.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I agree, but I cannot isolate it.

Watch this video. Parasitic Drain.

It is all about the technique, not the actual repair !

The first important step is at 45 seconds into the video. That first step is to set your multimeter to the 10A setting (there is likely a unique plug on the meter for 10A) and then disconnect ONE battery cable and connect your meter BETWEEN the battery post and that cable.

 

[bob15]

Battery-wise, I have had good luck over the past 10-15 years using the East Penn/Deka batteries.

 

[speed88]

I went through three Walmart (ever/neverstart ) batteries in two and a half years. Two winters and one summer. One battery failed after 6 months use with a crack in the case by the terminal post. I finally got Fed up and went to the dealership and picked up a Motorcraft battery and have had no issues in 6 years now with that battery. I do keep it on the charger when the car sits for more then 4 or 5 days in the winter though. Might try your local dealership. Price wasn’t much more then the Walmart battery and came with a better warranty if I remember correctly.

 

[sick467]

I have always bought the Interstate Batteries when not in a pinch and they last for their warranty and then a bit more. You get what you pay for. I bought a Duralast Gold battery once...10 years ago. It had the typical 5 or 6 year warranty. It still works like a champ starting any one of my 3 classic V8's, one being a high compression Pontiac 400. Otherwise known as "the battery eater." The key with the Duralast is that it has never seen regular street use. I use it as my shop battery for moving cars around and the occasional spare when my daily driver needs a new one.

All that said, you are using a top name brand and going through 3 of them in such a short time indicates that you have something else going on.

 

[Temaweaver]

I once had a group 78 Interstate last 12yrs. It was on a diesel pump continuously on a battery tender.

 

[1967ChevyRagtop]

That year of Toyota might forget it's idle once disconnected. I can't remember what year that started with them. I know the 2007 models will.

Yeah, it has that "feature". I usually just turn on the ac until it figures out how to idle.

So, just went for @50m drive and disconnected battery. It'll be in the teens again tonight. Will report back.

The older I get the better Fla looks. Anything below 60F is hard winter to me.

bg

 

[Wrench97]

Watch this video. Parasitic Drain.

It is all about the technique, not the actual repair !

The first important step is at 45 seconds into the video. That first step is to set your multimeter to the 10A setting (there is likely a unique plug on the meter for 10A) and then disconnect ONE battery cable and connect your meter BETWEEN the battery post and that cable.

You have be carful using that method today.
Many if not most modern vehicles will draw more than 10a when the cable is rehooked all the modules turn on and some even the lights turn on for a second or more and blow the internal fuse in the meter.

I made up a set on leads with a fuse holder to use a 7a mini to protect the meter.

 

[KpFlyz]

I have found AGM batteries provide years of reliable service. Big negative is initial cost. I believe "New" batteries like NorthStar are more reliable than "reconditioned"

 

[Benw455]

Deka in my HD, and in my plow trucks.

 

[Copymutt]

From my experience as well as vehicle forums I’m active on for over ten yrs.
Lead acid does not play well w/ on board battery management computers. False battery codes, post and cable depositions, cable and terminal corrosion. Price replacements for the new coated cables results in a double ding. If you want to mess up an engine compartment that you spent hrs. detailing, just pop in a LA battery.
Been running Odysseys since 2005. Have not replaced one yet. Price is now double what it was then. Chargers are supposed to be specific to their batteries. I’ve had issues w/ generic digital chargers, but my old Schauer is happily compatible. A fraction of the size of LA they can be position in any configuration except upside down. So, 16 yrs divided into current price of +- $250.00 = $17.00 per yr. Can’t do that w/ LA unless you scam the warranties. Optima has been **** since manufacturing went to Mex.

 

[mwalsh9152]

I have found AGM batteries provide years of reliable service. Big negative is initial cost. I believe "New" batteries like NorthStar are more reliable than "reconditioned"

NorthStar is now owned by EnerSys, same manufacturer as the Odyssey battery. I do not think they have merged manufacturing of automotive batteries, but they were very similar in makeup before the purchase, which is why they were acquired.

 

[mwalsh9152]

Its been many years since I have investigated lead acid automotive batteries, but the last I remembered, Ford Motorcraft batteries were VERY good.

 

[intrepid]

I just replaced a group 51 battery in my 2005 Honda Civic. It was from 2008! I kept it topped up and charged it acouple times a year. I don't know who manufactured turned it but it was sold at Canadian Tire.

 

[NFH2740]

What is good value group 65 AGM? WalMart and Rural King carried such a thing for around $120.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Battery-wise, I have had good luck over the past 10-15 years using the East Penn/Deka batteries.

They also make Duracell brand lead acid batteries.

 

[theoldwizard1]

You have be carful using that method today.
Many if not most modern vehicles will draw more than 10a when the cable is rehooked all the modules turn on and some even the lights turn on for a second or more and blow the internal fuse in the meter.

I made up a set on leads with a fuse holder to use a 7a mini to protect the meter.

Good idea !

 

[Kmp259]

Battery-wise, I have had good luck over the past 10-15 years using the East Penn/Deka batteries.

Ditto....

 

[WES51]

As far as I know, batteries are't allowed to be transported overseas.

And there is only one battery manufacturer left in the US.

So chances are, they are all the same, except marketing and label.

My wife's 2004 BMW came with a Varta battery. In 2020, that battery was still going strong, when we traded that car in for another BMW. Her round trip commute was 5 miles. Coastal climate California.

By the way, I wanted to preemptively replace that battery after 5 years. I buy my batteries from a battery wholesaler and that wholesaler told me to keep the Varta. He said it will outlast anything that he can get. He then told me the story about the shipping and the manufacturing. He said all USA made batteries are **** (back then when he told me this, there was still 2x manufafturers in the US).

 

[Wrench97]

Batteries can be shipped in containers overseas dry, it's just cost prohibitive to ship dry and add acid once here.

Exide has 3 manufacturing plants in the US and i believe still has a couple recycling plants.
East Penn (Deka) has 1 in Reading Pa.
Johnson Controls sold it's battery business to the Saudi investment group Brookfield Business Partners and is now named Clarios did close it's Delaware plant last fall but still has one in N.C.
And I believe Delphi still has 1 plant in Ga.
I also though there is Tx battery manufacturer but can't come up with a name(could be the old Middle East Battery..................)

 

[JamesW84]

I needed a replacement for my car about a year ago, so I did research as you're doing. I ended up buying a Super Start from O'Reilly. Make sure and look at the stickers and get a newish one.

Now I need one for my truck, so I'll look more into Duracell/Super Start being the same.

 

[tez929rr]

I just replaced the NAPA battery in my truck; the old one was seven years old and had been totally discharged twice (even the counter guys were impressed). The yellow top Optima in the wife’s Miata has lasted even longer. I started trickle charging all the seldom used vehicles once a month and that seems to have made a big difference.

All the bikes have had Shorai lithium batteries since 2013 and I haven’t had to replace one yet.

 

[Git]

I am done buying Optima. Our two cars haven't been driven much in the last year and in December I had to replace both batteries. Yellow top lasted about 6 years, which is great, but the price skyrocketed from $160 to a current price of $280! Red top went from $150 to $200. Picked up 2 Costco batteries (Interstate) $80 each and they have a 3 year warranty.

 

[mobetta]

've been partial to AGM batteries for over a decade.

I live in an extreme climate and I drive only Diesel vehicles.

I've bought Optima, the store brand from Autozone, Oreilly and even one from Menards..

The only one that I recall being a disappointment was the Optima...
The meanards one has only been in service less than a year...But it was free and in stock when i needed it(rebate check!!) also the least costly(probably the crappiest too)

 

[Jwallace1]

what size battery is it ? i work for a Cat dealer and always use Cat batteries if we have the size i need for a vehicle, they are made by East Penn - Deka, i do standby generator work and they are by far the best batteries i have come across. we have installed thousands of them and i can count the warranty replacements on one hand. have also seen the aftermath of exploding batteries and have never seen a Cat battery fail due to exploding.

 

[elba]

I use Walmart MAXX . They all last at least 5 yrs . MAXX not the cheaper Never Start .

 

[firebirdparts]

Hankook has a new battery factory in clarksville, Tennessee. They call their battery "Atlas" but I have no idea if they even know Atlas was a car parts brand 50 years ago.

Anyway, I am not above buying a $49 battery at Walmart and just having low expectations. That's the sort of thing I would do. But, I don't. I use Interstate. I have an optima in a 1978 Firebird. It's been good. I have two motorcrafts and they've been better than good. I don't know who made them.

 

[BillK]

I have always tried to use AC Delco but I have to be honest and say the longest lasting one so far has been a cheap WalMart one I bought for my S-10 in a pinch. I bet it has been in there every bit of ten years

 

[charbar]

Watch this video. Parasitic Drain.

It is all about the technique, not the actual repair !

The first important step is at 45 seconds into the video. That first step is to set your multimeter to the 10A setting (there is likely a unique plug on the meter for 10A) and then disconnect ONE battery cable and connect your meter BETWEEN the battery post and that cable.

You have be carful using that method today.
Many if not most modern vehicles will draw more than 10a when the cable is rehooked all the modules turn on and some even the lights turn on for a second or more and blow the internal fuse in the meter.

I made up a set on leads with a fuse holder to use a 7a mini to protect the meter.

This^^

I never watched the video but Im going to assume it involves throwing a meter in series and pulling fuses? Easy enough.....for an old vehicle.
Newer vehicles with modules that will stay awake for a designated amount of time even after the key is turned off, and 'wake up' when power is reconnected take a little different approach.

Here is how I do a parasitic load test on anything newer.

-Open all the doors and use a screwdriver to close the door latches. Disable underhood light.
-Unhook negative batt. cable and use a jumper wire to reconnect negative cable to negative post on battery.
-Let vehicle sit for 60 or so minutes....dont touch anything.
-Set meter on 10 amp setting, hook in series between neg. batt. cable and neg. batt. post. Positive meter lead on neg. batt. cable, neg. meter lead on neg. batt. post.
-Remove jumper wire from second step.
-Check meter reading for excessive draw.

If its excessive then I will do a voltage drop across all the fuses and hopefully find the circuit in question.

If I find a large voltage drop across a fuse (there is a chart for this) only THEN will I pull a fuse to 'double check' on the meter.

Some people will start pulling fuses one by one instead of doing a voltage drop across them, but then when you stick that fuse back on and it wakes up the module it powered, you're back at square one, which is sit there and wait for that module to 'go to sleep' before you can continue testing.

Clear as mud?

As for batteries.....I sell NAPA brand at the shop....partly because of convenience, partly because Ive had good luck with them. They are made by East Penn.

 

[WES51]

Clear as mud?

Yes and I have tried this before and it blew the fuse of my meter.

Apparently, as soon as I hook up the battery, some things that have a high amp draw come alive.

This is evident by the sparks too, when the battery terminal is removed.

Vehicle is a 1999 Tahoe with an aftermarket alarm.

 

[charbar]

Yes and I have tried this before and it blew the fuse of my meter.

Apparently, as soon as I hook up the battery, some things that have a high amp draw come alive.

This is evident by the sparks too, when the battery terminal is removed.

Vehicle is a 1999 Tahoe with an aftermarket alarm.

That's the whole reason behind using a jumper between the cable and battery, letting the vehicle sit for awhile (for modules to 'go to sleep'), and then hooking the meter up (turned on) BEFORE you remove the jumper wire. The idea is to NOT break the circuit.

 

[WES51]

That's the whole reason behind using a jumper between the cable and battery, letting the vehicle sit for awhile (for modules to 'go to sleep'), and then hooking the meter up (turned on) BEFORE you remove the jumper wire. The idea is to NOT break the circuit.

Thanks for the pointer. I have missed the jumper wire part. My bad!

Although, I must say as far as for my part, I'm done with trying to measure parasitic draw at the battery terminal.

I already blew 2x fuses of my multimeter and I'm actually thankful that my multimeter still works. Plus it (Blue Point MT596) needs some weird proprietary $$$ fuses that only Snap-On seems to carry.

 

[like2wheel]

Thanks for the pointer. I have missed the jumper wire part. My bad!

Although, I must say as far as for my part, I'm done with trying to measure parasitic draw at the battery terminal.

I already blew 2x fuses of my multimeter and I'm actually thankful that my multimeter still works. Plus it (Blue Point MT596) needs some weird proprietary $$$ fuses that only Snap-On seems to carry.

See the last line of post #15