Auto Tech Student Help

[Matt Behnke]

Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good starter set of tools for someone like me? I am an auto tech student , and am looking to buy my own tools. I do get a 50% discount for snap on tools, but even so the tools seem to be expensive. At the moment I just use my dads wrenches and sockets, but I think it is time where i should get my own tools. The tools gotta be made in the USA, and just an overall good basic set that will get me through a lot of repairs. Price is no concern, as I am patient enough to save up if the set is really recommended. SK doesn't seem bad, and I don't think I will have to worry about any warentee tools being made overseas. They seem pretty dedicated to being made in the USA. To shorten up, I'm just looking for a well put together, good quality, made in the USA set of tools. Thanks

 

[gdocktor3]

I'd buy the 47-48 piece SK socket sets, then buy a nice flex head dual 80 ratchet to go with. Alternatively, you may not like this, you can go with Gearwrench socket sets, then match them with better ratchets if you feel necessary, but the 120xp's are really good. Heck you can get both a 1/4" set and 3/8" set for a little over $100 buy one get one deal right now. I think that's phenomenal for someone starting out, but that's my opinion.

For wrenches, I'm not a fan of SK's regular combination wrenches. I'd go with Williams or Wright if you're looking for "cheaper" USA made tools, but I myself am partial to Mac Knucklesavers. I like the way they feel in my hands, even better than Snap On flank drive and Matco opti torque. Don't forget to look at the Tool Truck Equivalent's Thread here on GJ. You can match the truck branded tools to their OEM manufacturer and save a bunch of money. If you haven't seen this yet, it will make you very happy. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249851

 

[JJThrasher]

Take advantage of SO and Matco's 50% plans. You'll never have the opportunity again.

 

[jd_1138]

Epstein's has some pretty nice sets of SK (and other brands too).

http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/master-sets-28357.html

It's a lot cheaper to buy a large set at once rather than buying things here and there.

 

[R_einan]

As a past auto tech student that didn't take advantage of the discount when I had it available to me. If you must get it now, buy what you can get away with for as cheap as possible then start replacing/adding to your kit as you can while you have the discount. The 3/8 gearwrench set with the free 1/4 set is a great buy to get you started, then watch the truck for promos while you have the discount. Ratchets, torque wrenches, any bits sockets (hex, speed hex/ball, torx), and a GOOD set of snap ring pliers (I prefere the MAC branded Knipex-made set) are best purchased off the truck at as much of a discount as you can get. After that, wrenches, main line sockets (3/8 & 1/2 especially), pliers, and screwdrivers, are also a good area to fill in while you can get a price break. Just one guys opinion here, should have spent my money while I was in school on good tools at a good price, instead of chasing girls, cars, and beer. Would have more to show for it, like a tool box of good tools..

 

[Empty Pockets]

Welcome to GJ, Matt. Please put your location in your profile. You'll probably get as many different answers to your question, as there are posters. Most everyone here has a wealth of knowledge, and are all good folks.

I agree with gdoctor..... SK makes nice sockets. I have Wright wrenches that I bought new in the 70's, they have received hard use and they have never let me down. As much as it hurts me to say this, HF impacts aren't too bad, although they are imports.

Now this is going to sound contradictory, but DON'T go cheap on your ratchets!! HF has a line of Pittsburgh Pro ratchets (imports) that are relatively cheap, and seem a good value for the money. You might want to buy a couple, use them until you find a size/style/tooth count that suits your needs, then buy an appropriate truck brand

 

[brooksdr]

You want USA buy Snap-on with your discount. If it's cheaper on ebay get it there. Used like new stuff is a lot cheaper on ebay. SK stuff is good too. Watch craigslist there is deals to be found. Buy quality but buy smart.

 

[gdocktor3]

Now this is going to sound contradictory, but DON'T go cheap on your ratchets!! HF has a line of Pittsburgh Pro ratchets (imports) that are relatively cheap, and seem a good value for the money. You might want to buy a couple, use them until you find a size/style/tooth count that suits your needs, then buy an appropriate truck brand

Don't go cheap on your ratchets, but buy the cheap Pittsburgh Pro ratchets... LOL

 

[czgunner]

I am glad that I bought my wrenches, ratchets, and sockets from Snapon while I was in tech school.

 

[vssjim]

Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good starter set of tools for someone like me? I am an auto tech student , and am looking to buy my own tools. I do get a 50% discount for snap on tools, but even so the tools seem to be expensive. At the moment I just use my dads wrenches and sockets, but I think it is time where i should get my own tools. The tools gotta be made in the USA, and just an overall good basic set that will get me through a lot of repairs. Price is no concern, as I am patient enough to save up if the set is really recommended. SK doesn't seem bad, and I don't think I will have to worry about any warentee tools being made overseas. They seem pretty dedicated to being made in the USA. To shorten up, I'm just looking for a well put together, good quality, made in the USA set of tools. Thanks

Seeing as you already like SK which I have been using for over forty years also please call them as because I'm fairly sure they were talking about a Student Program also. Maybe not but I was fairly sure they posted something about it on their facebook page awhile ago.

 

[brooksdr]

Seeing as you already like SK which I have been using for over forty years also please call them as because I'm fairly sure they were talking about a Student Program also. Maybe not but I was fairly sure they posted something about it on their facebook page awhile ago.

I didn't know about this. Interesting

 

[Empty Pockets]

Don't go cheap on your ratchets, but buy the cheap Pittsburgh Pro ratchets... LOL

I'd much rather spend $15 or so, less with a coupon, on a ratchet and find that the size of the head, length of the handle or the type of grip doesn't suit my needs, before I spend well north of $100 to find out the same thing. Just a thought

 

[camd64]

If I was in your shoes I would get most of my hand tools from SK with the student discount. I would still get Snap on ratchets, in particular the long handled flex type. I would contact Wright as well and see if they offer a student program. I am partial to the Snap on flank drive plus wrenches but I know plenty of techs who have been using SK wrenches for years with zero compaints. Everyone has there preferences but I don't think you can go wrong with any of the well known names like SK, Wright, Williams, or Proto.

 

[Roberts210]

I've used S-K tools since 1978, when I started as an auto-glass tech. That's almost 40 years, and although I moved on to a better career, my S-K tools have stayed with me all this time.

 

[jd_1138]

I researched SK's student discount program and came across a link to a GJ thread:

SK Tools:

good afternoon.
Yes, we do have a vocational program.
I will be more than happy to pass along your contact information to our
sales team who will contact you regarding a distributor that can assist you
with our vocational program.

Best Regards,
SK Customer Service
800-822-5575 Phone
800-752-2434 Fax

specific contact:

[email protected]
Lauren Hoth

 

[Adam.C]

People make out like you'll go broke buying a few sets of snap On sockets. The worlds best sockets probably cost as much as one month of iPhone service. Get 3/8" metric chrome 6 pts from Snap On. Get a set of extensions. Save up for a set of flankdrive plus wrenches. Try to get the extra long ones if you can. Before you leave school get a set of the XHD high performance box wrenches. Buy your bit sockets from Snap On as you need them. Get 1/4" snap on sockets after that. Get semi deep before you get full deep.

Everything else can be harbor freight or whatever. This includes screwdrivers, hammers, ratchets, breakers, pry bats etc.

 

[allstarrme]

I took out a personal loan to buy a bunch of stuff through snap on student program, I got it for less than the truck guy can get it. It's less than $100 a month for my payment and 5k goes a long way for half price Snap-on.

I waited till I was done with school and already working, I just hadn't graduated yet so I still got the discount. I started with some other stuff and have bought a bunch since, but it was a good start, it kept me from buying anything of the truck for most of a year

 

[chrisnazzy]

This month in the Snap On flyer there is a pretty sweet deal. If you buy a 1/4" or 3/8" extension set you get a corresponding ratchet free. $135 for the 1/4" wobble extension set and a free T72 or TLL72 ain't bad.

I'm with gdoctor and the others, in that you can't beat Dual 80 Snap On ratchets. Lots of other nice ones out there but no one else has as extensive of a made in USA ratchet lineup with lifetime quality and warranty to back them up.

You can save a lot of money going SK sockets and they are top notch as well. I usually recommend Sunex for all your impact socket needs. Not USA but amazing quality, value and warranty and they are very regarded around here.

I love Snap On for all things "handled". Boy would I love to go on a 50% off shopping spree like you could. I would consider investing now in screwdrivers, picks, trim tools, files, radiator hose picks, scrapers and prybars. All invaluable tools you will use daily and you'll never buy another one if you ever break one. Hope this helps!

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

 

[MDK22]

TBH I am going to post but, it is trivial any more to do so. Most of the people on here do not actually do this for a profession. You are already being brainwashed into thinking USA made tools are somehow superior in every way and they are not.

Getting into this field atm is something quite honestly that I would recommend against. All standard repair times are becoming so tight you will be lucky to break even any more. They are also setup to include air tools all of which you likely will not have right away.

My suggestion is do not buy a SO box. Buy 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive SO Flex head Ratchets. I suggest quick release but, that is personal preference. Buy SO FD+ long pattern 10-19mm. The rest buy Gear Wrench, Blue Point, or expert. For ratcheting I would buy ez-Red or Mountain Metric double end spline flex reversible ratchets and Gear Wrench flex ratcheting wrenches.

Sockets I would buy impact Grey Pnuematic to start. Mac Precision Torque Impacts for end game. If you can afford them right off the bat great. Get impact extensions only. Get wobble extensions Sunex makes impact ones. 1/4" wobble extensions you may have to get chrome in that case SO. Get Impact ball and square universals. Get impact adapters.

Get the 3 prong filter claw the one with the grater opening range either MAC or SO. Get a form a funnel.

Get Vaughan 3lb drilling hammer and ball peen set. People will tell you get anti vibe if they actually knew how to use a hammer they would know you get less power from them.

Get SO MG325 and MG725 and Lucas Air Tool Oil and use it. Mine are now over 5 yrs old. They have not needed to be replaced and hit harder then most techs. Also get high flow fittings and leave the mufflers in.

For air ratchets/grinders/drills Chicago Pnuematic. Once again oil all air tools. They are best for high speed applications. Also air ratchets are for speed not torque. Slam your hand in a spot you cannot release the trigger and you will understand.

I do this for a living. I tend to buy tools once and rarely have to replace them and when I do 99% of time it is under warranty or another tech is replacing it because he abused the tools.

Stay away from Matco unless it is something that is a cheap thing anyway or it is something that all the brands carry and they just have the lowest price ie Power Probe.

 

[Tim37]

I would stay away from SO for now get something like the SK or gearwrench to get you started. For one thing you don't know if the shop you land in is going to have a good so dealer or one at all remember SO trucks are independent businesses and no two are run the same if you look through this site there are many horror stories about dealers now there are some great ones too it's just luck of the draw I have a good one now but have had dealers in the past that I wouldn't give the time of day because they were dicks. two no need to go deeper in Dept than you have too. Three it's not like you walk on the truck and get 50% off anything but there are deals to be had especially if you have a good dealer if anything I would buy some ratchets because SO dual 80 for the win

 

[vavet]

I've been to auto tech school at a community college.
I had a few things going for me, financially...
I was married, my wife had a decent income.
I had just come off deployment, so I have some savings.
I worked part-time with more basic tools, went to school part time, so I maintained student status longer.

I used the Matco program. I felt like the initial prices were the best, and then with 50% off, it was even better.

I don't have much experience with SK tools, but here's what I didn't like. I didn't like the way the sockets are etched with the size. There is a lot of writing around the socket and it takes precious seconds every time you want to pick one up to determine if it's the right size. I can't speak to their quality.

I enjoyed working on cars, but ultimately, you are a pawn in someone else's game. You take a measly paycheck home while you boss is buying a bigger boat. In my shop, there were also the favorite techs - those who got the gravy work. I would've been fine if the gravy and the **** were spread evenly and fairly...even just luck of the draw...but it was never like that. I'd encourage anyone to steer away from auto tech, but if it's what you want to do, some stranger online, like me, is not going to talk you out of it. Some guys are able to really make a go of it and bring home 6 figures swinging wrenches. Other guys get promoted to foreman or service manager.

Tool needs will also be dictated by the type of shop you're in. Are you working in a Japanese make dealer doing a lot of warranty work? Are you working in a mom-and-pop shop on the other side of the tracks were you'll be wrenching on an 84 Caprice with duct tape and baling wire?

Once you know where you want to work, find one of the more experienced techs and explain you're trying to buy tools, but you want to do it smartly. Some guys are protective of their toolboxes and don't want to show you what's in there....other guys will be happy to show you, tell you what they wish they'd bought, what they shouldn't have bought, etc. Be humble and you'll probably get further with this.

You want to avoid borrowing tools as much as you can, but most guys were in this boat at some point and are willing to help the new guy as long as you're willing to help yourself. If you borrow a tool twice - buy it. That means you need it. You'll probably get more help when you need it (future borrowed tools, technical advice, pushing a car, etc) if you're willing to demonstrate that you're investing in the industry by buying your own tools.

As for boxes - they're all clean and shiny and new, but they won't help you make money. Certainly you will need a box, but you don't need a $10K box or even a $5K box. Buy the Craftsman or the HF box. They'll last long enough to get you well on your way.

Spend the money on good quality fine-toothed ratchets and ratcheting wrenches. These will be your most-used tools (probably) and you want to maximize their efficiency with these.

Good luck!

 

[geartow]

If it was me and snap- ons blue point line is available at student discount price .That would be my choice of tools , I would buy the whole line. Same with Mac they have the expert line that is set for the entering tech. With box and assortment of tools if available on discount it would get consideration.
.

 

[Pho20]

Man if I were in your shoes I would go down to harbor freight buy 90% of your stuff there and start upgrading when you know what you want what you will be working on and can appreciate why you are spending a premium on it

I buried myself in debt buying truck tools and it was miserable after losing 10k in tools I spent about 2k between harbor freight craftsman and gear wrench and have twice the tools I did and most of them are 90% the quality at 10% of the cost

ETA

Hf has been stand up with there tool warrenty walk in with broken tool walk out with new tool

 

[Davefr]

The conventional wisdom is to use your SO discount to buy the most needed hardline tools while you have the opportunity. (wrenches, ratchets, sockets, etc).

Don't buy an expensive SO toolbox or a ton of specialty tools!! You can do that later as needed.

At 50% off, your SO tools will not depreciate much if any. You can always sell them for about what you paid.

 

[Adam.C]

New Snap On boxes are very expensive. I don't recommend even a good deal on one from your Snap on rep. Good used boxes can be found under $2000 and sometimes less.

Only caveat: guys here talk about boxes like they are necessary evils or unnecessary altogether. That may be true in their home garages. But in a professional repair shop, your toolbox is your single most often used tool. If you have to fight with a drawer latch every time you open it, that adds frustration and time to your day. If the drawers can't be arranged to hold what you want, where you want, the box is costing you money.

Snap On boxes are carefully designed for auto techs. They are designed hold specific tools in specific drawers and with drawers placed in optimized locations for auto work based on extensive market research and testing. Snap on is very clever about stuff like that. There's a lot more to a good toolbox than just how much weight each drawer can hold.

But I'm not trying to sell you on SO boxes. They are too much money in my opinion. But if you can get a classic 76 or 96 from a co-worker who is upgrading to a KRL for less than $2000, I would do that. If that's not a possibility, I would get a SO roll cart in a color lots of people like that you can easily sell later (like red). It might serve you for many years or you might unload it when you go bigger.

I would not recommend spending $1000 on a HF box that you will get nothing for when you sell and will possibly give you years of frustration. Better choice is to get the cheapest HF44" used if possible and figure you will give it away when you upgrade. In my opinion, the mid priced boxes are not a good deal When you get up to the $1000 mark, you are really better off spending a bit more for a used professional quality box.

 

[Adam.C]

Man if I were in your shoes I would go down to harbor freight buy 90% of your stuff there and start upgrading when you know what you want what you will be working on and can appreciate why you are spending a premium on it

I buried myself in debt buying truck tools and it was miserable after losing 10k in tools I spent about 2k between harbor freight craftsman and gear wrench and have twice the tools I did and most of them are 90% the quality at 10% of the cost

ETA

Hf has been stand up with there tool warrenty walk in with broken tool walk out with new tool

With respect, I don't know what work you do or what is in your toolbox. I couldn't possibly buy 90% of what I need in a HF. You guys talk about automotive tools like its 1970. Last job I did took me 90 minutes to complete (so it was pretty big) and didn't have a single hex head bolt that a normal socket would fit. Modern cars are filled with specialty fasteners requiring special tools.

I think you could start with one set of SO semi deep 1/4" metric sockets, 1 set of semi deep 3/8" sockets, then buy wrenches and cheap impacts for everything else. I wouldn't waste your $$ on HF sockets or wrenches or anything that touches a fastener. If you want to buy hammers and prybars there, that's fine. But the point is, the wrenches and sockets HF sell won't save you any money because that's not what costs a lot of money.

 

[M-EGT]

Just throwing this out there too.
Sometimes pawn shops sell full socket sets of Snap On, MAC, an Matco. I've seen them at times listed cheaper than ebay prices.

 

[ScottsGT]

Check with the school. they usually provide a list. My son is doing this right now. With his program, you don't need everything up front. His second quarter he needs his tool chest, 7-24 mm wrenches and the same in 3/8 drive. A hammer, screwdriver set and a few other odds and ends. Next semester he has to have a few more.
I bought him a HF 44" chest, but going with Snap On hand tools for the most. Few items like brake tools, magnetic parts tray, inspection mirror and magnet I bought HF also.

 

[homebuilt burner]

Try to buy as much quality as you can afford. Places to save money; tool box(used or off brand), hammers(you can use a $5 one for years), screwdrivers(craftsman are good enough to start when you buy better ones take those home), punches and chisels. Places not to save; sockets and ratchets, and wrenches.

Good luck.

 

[Matt Behnke]

Thanks for all the replies! So right now I have sockets and wrenches that I can borrow from my dad, but I don't want to rely on him forever. So am I just best off buying a small kit, like a ratchet set and then wrenches and etc? Or even just buy singular tools as I go? Or should I just stick with buying one large kit? Thanks

 

[Matt Behnke]

Or would my best idea to buy the tools as I learn to use them and start to use them on cars? Like when i start doing brakes, I buy a line wrench set? Ill check with my school and see if they have a list too. Thanks!

 

[jd_1138]

Thanks for all the replies! So right now I have sockets and wrenches that I can borrow from my dad, but I don't want to rely on him forever. So am I just best off buying a small kit, like a ratchet set and then wrenches and etc? Or even just buy singular tools as I go? Or should I just stick with buying one large kit? Thanks

It's not really throwing money down the drain if you think about it. You're getting 50% off on SO, so you will easily get your money back if you ever go to resell them. They don't depreciate much, if at all, unless you abuse the tools.

And even if you transition into another career, you can bring your SO tools home to your home box to save big money on doing repairs for you, wife, etc. for the rest of your life.

I'd try to buy as much SO as possible without going into debt. Unless your parents want to give you a no interest loan. Not sure how SO does their kits, but I'd try to get a large kit with all the basic hardline stuff.

Or go the SK route. I posted the contact info. for SK's student program in an earlier post in this thread. They're not as pricey as SO, though I don't know if they also offer 50% off like SO does. If SK offers 50% off, I'd go SK.

 

[Adam.C]

Thanks for all the replies! So right now I have sockets and wrenches that I can borrow from my dad, but I don't want to rely on him forever. So am I just best off buying a small kit, like a ratchet set and then wrenches and etc? Or even just buy singular tools as I go? Or should I just stick with buying one large kit? Thanks

Generally Snap On kits cost the sum of the individual tools. My experience with all kits is that you get stuff you don't want or need. So I'd avoid tool kits.

We've done this before, but here's my take on what to buy from Snap On:

1/4" and 3/8" drive chrome sockets
Extensions
flank drive plus wrenches
flare nut/line wrenches
bit sockets (get the "gold" cad plated ones whenever available, choose stubbies first when available because they are stiffer)

Stuff Snap On does well, (possibly best) but that you can get away without. (i.e. if you have the scratch buy this, if not don't worry)

Dual 80 ratchets - they really are nice
Instinct screwdrivers - custom designed for auto mechanics.
Techangle torque wrenches (you can often find these used and since they don't have lifetime warrantees, why buy new?)
DBE "hi performance" wrenches. Both 0 and 15 degree are useful.
Swivel sockets
pullers

Stuff I wouldn't buy from Snap On:
I love my Snap On hammers and prybars, but you can buy reasonable quality of both for half or less elsewhere.
punches, chisels, files, tap and die sets, thread restorers, ez outs etc. Most of this is made elsewhere and sold by Snap On
trim tools
Snap On make beautiful pliers. But I don't use pliers enough to justify a $50 pair.
battery impact tools - again Snap On's are nice.
LED lights, inspection tools, calipers, tape measures, tire inflators, pressure gauges
impact sockets
ratchet wrenches - these all seem to break. I guess Snap On's are good because of the warranty?? But they are thumping expensive and they seem no stronger than anyone elses'.

Only caveat - Snap On tools hold their value. At SEP pricing, they will likely appreciate over time, making them good deals. I bought allot of my Snap On on ebay at or slightly above SEP prices. But if cash flow is a problem and you need to decide what to buy from whom, maybe this list is a good start to the discussion.

 

[Roobaix]

Definitely check with the school for a list. I'd start with that as it's what you'll need to get through school.

If you could, post the list and we can give you a better idea of exactly what would be a good buy. I'd take advantage of the Snap On pricing while you can if it were me. I'm a buy once cry once type though.

If you'd prefer not to roll with SO, I'd look into SK/Wright/Williams/Channellock type stuff.

 

[Pho20]

With respect, I don't know what work you do or what is in your toolbox. I couldn't possibly buy 90% of what I need in a HF. You guys talk about automotive tools like its 1970. Last job I did took me 90 minutes to complete (so it was pretty big) and didn't have a single hex head bolt that a normal socket would fit. Modern cars are filled with specialty fasteners requiring special tools.

I think you could start with one set of SO semi deep 1/4" metric sockets, 1 set of semi deep 3/8" sockets, then buy wrenches and cheap impacts for everything else. I wouldn't waste your $$ on HF sockets or wrenches or anything that touches a fastener. If you want to buy hammers and prybars there, that's fine. But the point is, the wrenches and sockets HF sell won't save you any money because that's not what costs a lot of money.

Adam have you played around with the harbor freight hand tools recently?

I got all this

For less then one 3/8 snap on socket set

I have done huge involved jobs with these tools(engine removal clutches etc) and they haven't let me down I would reckon it would serve the average mechanic for years without letting them down

Is snap on nicer.....without a doubt but at what cost especially when you are first starting out getting your tool base up means your faster which means you have more money in your pocket for nicer tools

 

[Tim37]

Thanks for all the replies! So right now I have sockets and wrenches that I can borrow from my dad, but I don't want to rely on him forever. So am I just best off buying a small kit, like a ratchet set and then wrenches and etc? Or even just buy singular tools as I go? Or should I just stick with buying one large kit? Thanks

Just buy stuff as you need it. That way you don't end up with a box full of unused tools.

If you end up at a dealer or specialty shop you won't need nearly the tools you need as a independent. Say you end up at a vw dealer you probably won't need a 5.5mm ever a Ford dealer different story, on the other hand a independent you probably will need SAE tools on hand for those odball occasions when you have to figure out how to work on a stovebolt Chevy.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

I have to agree with the ones that said that they would rethink working on cars. It is getting tougher and tougher out there. Like has already been said, manufacturers are cutting times left and right. GM has actually started monitoring their tech forums and changing times as people post shortcuts. If you say this does not apply to me as I'm going to work for an independent, think again. All the labor time guides base their times off of the manufacturer's warranty times. I have found that you can take warranty time and add 1/3 to it and get the cash time that the aftermarket guides list and it works probably %99 of the time. Working on cars will als beat the $hit out of your body, it may be fine now but think twenty years from now. The last few years I worked at a dealership I would get home and just about fall down I was so beat. To make any money you have to bust your a$$ for eight hours a day and then the writers and service manager are still wanting more out of you. Have you checked to see what starting pay for an auto tech is where you are? Around the NE most guys out of school are starting around $11/hr at dealers and lower at independents. I know guys that are very good techs three years out of school and not even making $15/hr. It is a complete joke for what you have to spend on education and tools to get started and only get $11/hr. If you want to work with your hands I would look into the housing trades (electrician, plumbing, HVAC) you can make decent money and it is a lot easier to work for yourself if you desire. Also large companies hire from these fields and usually pay very well. If I have not convinced you to do something else here are my tool recommendations.

Chrome sockets = SK, they will still cost half of the SO even at %50 off.
No way I would purchase SO 1/4" sockets they get lost so easily and often it is not worth it. you lose a SO 10mm socket you are out over an hours pay. I used to keep either Cman or Huskey 5.5, 7,10mm sockets on hand for when I would lose one. At under $2 a pop it would cost me more money to search in an engine bay than to replace it.

Wrenches= I would get the SO flank drive plus with the discount. There is nothing that feels better in the hand than a quality wrench. For stubby wrenches lowes sells sets for $20 either standard or metric, you will never be able to put enough torque on a 3" wrench to tell a difference. Flare nut wrenches, SnapOn period. There is nothing better.

Airtools= IR for most everything except for air ratchets, and cut off tool. SO make an awesome cut off tool that is reversible, there are times where you will want the sparks to fly in the opposite direction.

Screwdrivers= Whia, Wera there are many brands that are much better than the tool trucks for a fraction of the price.

Punches, chisles, prybars= Mayhew

DVOM= Fluke 87-what ever number they are up to now

Pliers= Channel Lock

Impact sockets= Sunex (these will be your most used sockets as to make money air tools are key). Except for swivel impacts, these are high wear items and will need to be warrantied more than any other sockets, these I would go with SO

Tool Box= purchase used off Craigslist there are some great deals to be had and will still be probably half the cost of a new one with discount.

But, I would still consider other career options. I have not worked on cars professionally for three years and could not be happier.

 

[jd_1138]

I have to agree with the ones that said that they would rethink working on cars. It is getting tougher and tougher out there. Like has already been said, manufacturers are cutting times left and right. GM has actually started monitoring their tech forums and changing times as people post shortcuts. If you say this does not apply to me as I'm going to work for an independent, think again. All the labor time guides base their times off of the manufacturer's warranty times. I have found that you can take warranty time and add 1/3 to it and get the cash time that the aftermarket guides list and it works probably %99 of the time. Working on cars will als beat the $hit out of your body, it may be fine now but think twenty years from now. The last few years I worked at a dealership I would get home and just about fall down I was so beat. To make any money you have to bust your a$$ for eight hours a day and then the writers and service manager are still wanting more out of you. Have you checked to see what starting pay for an auto tech is where you are? Around the NE most guys out of school are starting around $11/hr at dealers and lower at independents. I know guys that are very good techs three years out of school and not even making $15/hr. It is a complete joke for what you have to spend on education and tools to get started and only get $11/hr. If you want to work with your hands I would look into the housing trades (electrician, plumbing, HVAC) you can make decent money and it is a lot easier to work for yourself if you desire. Also large companies hire from these fields and usually pay very well. If I have not convinced you to do something else here are my tool recommendations.

..........snip........

But, I would still consider other career options. I have not worked on cars professionally for three years and could not be happier.

Yeah, electrical/plumbing/HVAC would be easier on the body I think. Plus after 10 years or so in the trades he could get his contractor's license and start his own business. My stepdad was a technician at a VW dealership for 5 years in the early 60's, then he became a roofer in 1968 for 20 years. By the late 1980's his body was a wreck (back and knee problems), so he studied and passed the contractor's license and opened his own roofing company.

But if the OP loves wrenching on cars, I'd still consider that. He could find a nice indy shop to work in (maybe specialize at a Honda shop, Mercedes shop, etc.). If you're passionate for it and have the energy, then it makes it easier. Stay in shape and eat well. If you're 5'6" and 250, you'll run out of wind fast.

But if he is considering the building trades, I wonder if it'd make sense to become a triple threat? Learn HVAC/plumbing/electrical? The trades sort of overlap. The contractor who my friend hires to shore up his rental houses is licensed in all 3. After he comes in and buttons the utilities up, my friend then calls in his Amish general carpentry/roofing crew to do the rest.

 

[ScottsGT]

FYI, be careful with the Snap On "Package Deal" they put together for the students. Lots of Bluepoint items put in there. It usually the franchise owner that puts these together.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

Yeah, electrical/plumbing/HVAC would be easier on the body I think. Plus after 10 years or so in the trades he could get his contractor's license and start his own business. My stepdad was a technician at a VW dealership for 5 years in the early 60's, then he became a roofer in 1968 for 20 years. By the late 1980's his body was a wreck (back and knee problems), so he studied and passed the contractor's license and opened his own roofing company.

But if the OP loves wrenching on cars, I'd still consider that. He could find a nice indy shop to work in (maybe specialize at a Honda shop, Mercedes shop, etc.). If you're passionate for it and have the energy, then it makes it easier. Stay in shape and eat well. If you're 5'6" and 250, you'll run out of wind fast.

But if he is considering the building trades, I wonder if it'd make sense to become a triple threat? Learn HVAC/plumbing/electrical? The trades sort of overlap. The contractor who my friend hires to shore up his rental houses is licensed in all 3. After he comes in and buttons the utilities up, my friend then calls in his Amish general carpentry/roofing crew to do the rest.

Ya, It just disgusts me what auto techs are paid these days for what you have to put out in money for education and tools.

FYI, be careful with the Snap On "Package Deal" they put together for the students. Lots of Bluepoint items put in there. It usually the franchise owner that puts these together.

When I was in votech the school speced out the package and you could add or subtract whatever you wanted. We dealt with a industrial sales rep not a franchise operator. Although this was over twenty years ago.