Backyard Fab Shop Build in NE Ohio
- Thread starter Graham08
- Start date
I thought so, I spent a few minutes trying to figure out what the heck was wrong with your vise till I scrolled down to the other picture.
I finished building a stand for my tubing notcher over the weekend:
The notcher is a Baileigh TN-250 that I've had for a couple years. Until now, I bolted it to my welding table to use it.
Now that this is done, I'm getting back to work on my sprint car project. Some pictures of that are coming soon!
The notcher is a Baileigh TN-250 that I've had for a couple years. Until now, I bolted it to my welding table to use it.
Now that this is done, I'm getting back to work on my sprint car project. Some pictures of that are coming soon!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks great. Now get back to work on that sprint car chassis and keep the pics coming.
Mike.
Mike.
Looks great. Now get back to work on that sprint car chassis and keep the pics coming.
Mike.
Thanks! I just finished working on the car for the night. I had a spindle/hub assembly set up, taking dimensions for new steering arms and caliper brackets.
Thank you...I wish I could take credit for it but I didn't build it. There is some more information over at offroadfabnet.com.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
I finished building a stand for my tubing notcher over the weekend:
Damn man, do you ever do something simple ?
Troopermilligan
New member
- Joined
- May 22, 2013
- Messages
- 3
Quick update. I am still trying to get to "a place for everything". Saturday morning, I made a little rack to hold my levels so I could stop moving them around the shop.
Here it is in the raw:
Those look like Ford 351M push rods... bent and everything
kyle@hcb
Well-known member
Great looking space!!
Been a long time since I posted anything. Dad and I just rearranged some of my equipment to make better use of the space, and got some shelving up high on the back wall. It's starting to look like a proper racecar shop in here!
You've had a long and hard cold winter to be spending time inside and arrange stuff.
No kidding! Other projects have revolved around mating these two pieces of equipment:
And then getting the weight hung on the back of the tractor to actually be able to use the snowblower without getting stuck:
There are actually six 45 lb plates for this setup.
I have had enough of winter to last a while...
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome looking work as usual.
Love the shop.
Mike.
Love the shop.
Mike.
I did a little tinwork on my buddy George's sprint car this weekend. The frame was in for some minor surgery, and he wanted me to make a panel to cover the left safety cage while it was here. There are fiberglass pieces available for this, but the one he bought didn't fit right at all...and besides, you can't punch louvers in fiberglass!
I think louvers make everything at least look faster!
I think louvers make everything at least look faster!
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Very nice job and I love how you did a lot of the work yourself!!! I am a year or two away from building my dream shop but the good thing is I can learn a LOT from other peoples projects and it will make my shop better than if I had built it last year like |I had planned.
Some recent projects made it pretty obvious I needed to upgrade my milling machine vise. I've been using a Chinese copy of a D40 Kurt that came with the machine since I got it. A few weeks ago, Enco ran a sale for 15% off anything plus free shipping, so I pulled the trigger on a D688 Kurt. What a nice piece! I see why these are the industry standard.
At any rate, last night I finally had a few minutes to tram the milling machine and mount the vise to the table. Here's a pic:
I realize I probably added 50% to the value of the machine by bolting a Kurt to it, but I figure if I upgrade the machine, I'm keeping the vise.
I'm about to make chips fly on some parts for the new sprint car, so I'll be testing it out soon...
At any rate, last night I finally had a few minutes to tram the milling machine and mount the vise to the table. Here's a pic:
I realize I probably added 50% to the value of the machine by bolting a Kurt to it, but I figure if I upgrade the machine, I'm keeping the vise.
I'm about to make chips fly on some parts for the new sprint car, so I'll be testing it out soon...
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Killer Vice!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Some recent projects made it pretty obvious I needed to upgrade my milling machine vise. I've been using a Chinese copy of a D40 Kurt that came with the machine since I got it. A few weeks ago, Enco ran a sale for 15% off anything plus free shipping, so I pulled the trigger on a D688 Kurt. What a nice piece! I see why these are the industry standard.
At any rate, last night I finally had a few minutes to tram the milling machine and mount the vise to the table. Here's a pic:
I realize I probably added 50% to the value of the machine by bolting a Kurt to it, but I figure if I upgrade the machine, I'm keeping the vise.
I'm about to make chips fly on some parts for the new sprint car, so I'll be testing it out soon...
Nice.
That is the exact one I am looking at for the new PM 932PDF mill that I ordered a couple of days ago. How do you like it? It looks a little larger than I pictured, that is only the 6" with the 8.(something) opening correct? What size table do you have on your mill?The table on my new mill is only 9"x32", I have also been looking at a 5" GMT here.
http://www.glacern.com/gsv_550
Thanks.
Mike.
Nice.
The table on my new mill is only 9"x32", I have also been looking at a 5" GMT here.
http://www.glacern.com/gsv_550
Thanks.
Mike.
First, congrats on the new mill! If you don't already have one, it will open up a ton of capabilities.
My mill is an Index 40, which is an antique. The table is actually 8" x 30". The machine looks a bunch smaller than other mills because it doesn't have a turret or ram.
I made chips using the new vise for the first time last night. So far I really like it! It's a little taller than the 4" vise I was using so it does eat up a little more headroom. Other than that, it doesn't seem to get in the way, even though it is a little large for the machine.
Ultimately what made my decision on getting a D688 vs. the D40 was a Kurt D40 only opens to 3-7/8", so beyond that you have to move the jaws to the outside position. With the D688, I can hold about anything I would normally make in my shop.
The table size of your machine is the same as a short table Bridgeport (9" x 32"), and everyone uses a 6" vise on those. I would think you will be fine as long as it doesn't eat up too much of your travels and the added weight doesn't cause a problem.
I looked at the Glacern vises, too. They seem to have mixed reviews over on Practical Machinist. With the sale that was going on at Enco, it really closed up the price difference between a Kurt and a Glacern when shipping was factored in.
If Kurt would revise the design of the D40 to make it open to 6"+ like they have done with the 6" vise, that would be perfect for what I'm doing, but I suspect the volume isn't there to do it. A D40 is basically the same cost as a 6" vise as it is because of the low volume they sell.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks. That was my exact reasoning as well with the D688 was the opening size. The D40 seemed a bit restrictive.
I haven't really heard anything bad about the Glacern but the Kurt's are the Cadillac of vises. It is just between the vise and a swivel base that is nearly $800.00. OUCH!!
I have a small 4" that I am selling with my Smithy lathe/mill combo so I am in the market for a replacement for my 9x32 mill. My mill is not a knee style as I don't have the room for one of those (or the budget) but it seems to be very well reviewed from the people I have talked to that have one. I will definitely post up some pictures when I get them and set up. Right now I am having to do some major changing around of the north side of my shop to gain enough floorspace to accommodate them.
Mike.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks. I hadn't seen that from Enco. I found a guy on ebay selling them for $460.00 but I will have to watch Enco's ad a little closer.
Mike.
MQ Unlimited Media
Well-known member
NICE builds and shop! I planned on using the same color scheme as your shop in my garage, and after seeing it I'm now sure it will look great.
truckin23
Banned
Just finished reading from the beginning subscribing awesome
I haven't updated this in quite a while...been busy making parts for the race car.
Adjustable Watt's linkage to locate the rear suspension:
Spherical bearing to round tube adapter for the lower link in the Watt's linkage:
Bent lower link for rear end clearance:
Watt's linkage mounting bracket on the rear end:
New rear clip on the frame (less shock towers):
I have a few more rear suspension parts to go and it will be a roller again. Trying hard to get the car out before winter to work out some new car bugs...
Adjustable Watt's linkage to locate the rear suspension:
Spherical bearing to round tube adapter for the lower link in the Watt's linkage:
Bent lower link for rear end clearance:
Watt's linkage mounting bracket on the rear end:
New rear clip on the frame (less shock towers):
I have a few more rear suspension parts to go and it will be a roller again. Trying hard to get the car out before winter to work out some new car bugs...
Nolift911
Well-known member
Nice shop and ridiculous fab skills...takes a long time to get that good at fab.
Subscribed.
Subscribed.
I've been busy all summer working on the race car and other stuff. A couple pics:
I finally got the new sprint car sitting on the ground with its new rear suspension!
I'm working on getting the brake system going now. This was a big deal for me...there were a bunch of seemingly small parts that were a real killer to do, like the birdcages (bearing carriers). Lots of machining and welding here:
The other thing I just finished up is a little more shop-related, a tooling cart to store a bunch of stuff for the milling machine and lathe:
I injured my back last winter, which made me realize I no longer need to be lifting a 120 pound rotary table onto the milling machine. With this cart, I'm able to wheel it over to the machine, and slide from the top of the cart onto the machine table...no lifting involved. The cart frame is made out of 1-1/2" x 0.120" wall square tube, and the top is a piece of 3/8" plate.
I finally got the new sprint car sitting on the ground with its new rear suspension!
I'm working on getting the brake system going now. This was a big deal for me...there were a bunch of seemingly small parts that were a real killer to do, like the birdcages (bearing carriers). Lots of machining and welding here:
The other thing I just finished up is a little more shop-related, a tooling cart to store a bunch of stuff for the milling machine and lathe:
I injured my back last winter, which made me realize I no longer need to be lifting a 120 pound rotary table onto the milling machine. With this cart, I'm able to wheel it over to the machine, and slide from the top of the cart onto the machine table...no lifting involved. The cart frame is made out of 1-1/2" x 0.120" wall square tube, and the top is a piece of 3/8" plate.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great looking work Graham. Glad to see you making some progress but sorry to hear about your back. Back pain ***** the big one.
Mike.
Mike.
Thanks! Yes, back pain *****. It took about two months of physical therapy but I'm mostly pain free now. I herniated the disc at L5, fortunately I was able to get away without surgery. I pay a lot more attention to what and how I'm lifting now, no way do I want to go through that again.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Completely agree. I tweaked mine about 10-years ago now. Bad enough I could hardly walk for several days. Doing something so easy like bending over to wipe up a spot of oil but I had a box in my hand and didn't want to set it down. Stupid I know, but I too am a lot more cautious of what I am doing now because I don't want to go through that pain again. Luckily I didn't need any surgery either, I felt something "pop" when it happened and thought for sure it was a ruptured disk or the like, ended up just being a pulled/strained muscle and within a couple of weeks I was back to normal. Well as normal as I was before anyways.
But yes, I pay a lot more attention to what I am doing and HOW I am doing it. I don't try to man handle things as much and use my head more.
Mike.
hoho98925
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That's a great space you have. And seriously impressive fab skills.
That's a great space you have. And seriously impressive fab skills.
Thanks!
I've been working on a tubing rack over the past week or so. I finally got it hung on the wall last night!
This is a much better spot for my stash of chrome-moly tubing than the floor! Slowly but surely, I'm finding a place for everything.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I haven't updated this in quite a while...been busy making parts for the race car.
Spherical bearing to round tube adapter for the lower link in the Watt's linkage:
Graham, first off, bad *** work. Now for the question. Did you use a radius turning tool/attachment to make the end and then flatten it off and machine the snap-ring groove with the milling machine? If so, can I ask what kind of radius turning tool you use and if you like it or not? I am in the process of looking at various styles and getting ready to fabricate one but would like opinions and feedback before deciding on a particular one.
Thanks.
Mike.
Hey Mike. Thanks!
That's pretty much the process I used, except I final bored the hole and did the snap ring groove with the part chucked in a four jaw on the lathe. It's a lot easier for me to bore to a shoulder and do the snap ring groove that way.
I've got a 4" Holdridge attachment for the lathe. I like it. I think it's simple to set up and does everything I've needed to do to this point. The only thing it won't do that I can think of is bore a complete internal hemisphere. You do have to take fairly light cuts with it, but I think that's the case with about any radius turning attachment.
Here are a couple more pictures of that piece in process. This one shows the Holdridge attachment:
And here's the setup for boring and doing the snap ring (after the hole got drilled in the milling machine:
I hope that helps your search for a radius attachment!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome. Thank you. I have been looking at that style as well. I like the fact that the Holdridge style will allow a slightly larger radius than the smaller "Bedair" style. I just can't seem to decide on a design yet.
Thanks again. Makes sense using the lathe to machine the snap-ring groove vs. the mill though.
Mike.
Thanks again. Makes sense using the lathe to machine the snap-ring groove vs. the mill though.
Mike.
04fivefour
Well-known member
I love this thread... That is all.