SiGmA_X
Well-known member
I love barns. Yours looks fantastic, I can't wait to see the house next to it, and the barn in use as a workshop!
Above 1200 Sq/FT Bailey's Barn Build
- Thread starter mwbailey
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
SiGmA X, Actually, I've been using "some" of the barn as a workshop, but not quite as it was intended. Builder suggests mid-November for wrapping everything up! Lighting fixtures maybe next week; plumbing fixtures about the same time; trim work late this week or early next; cabinets w/o 11/4; painting in the meantime.
And, in the other meantime, I've gotten tired of trying to make the wellhouse foundation perfect and finished that up today. All the skids are plumb, but I'm not so pleased with the cinder blocks underneath.
I've been watering the seed (and straw) in patches for the last several days. Looks like Sandy the Hurricane might give me a little (too much) help.
The builder's superintendent AND designer said I should make a door for the loft closet to match the others I made. So, I believe this will be the last one. That's a good thing since we've just about run out of decent looking shiplap lumber. This door is very narrow -- only needs about 17 1/2" width. I cut the frame pieces down to 3" wide instead of 4" that I used for the other doors. I scrounged around enough to find three 1X10's for the door and ripped a few boards to get the frame pieces. I hope to screw it all together tomorrow after I make a couple of diagonals for the frame.
By the way, SiGmA X, the house has been somewhat on hold waiting to get the slab poured. After the foundation walls were poured, a rain filled it up. This soil does NOT percolate, so we've been waiting for it to evaporate. Just made some progress this week with the rough plumbing so we should get gravel and cement Thursday/Friday.
And, in the other meantime, I've gotten tired of trying to make the wellhouse foundation perfect and finished that up today. All the skids are plumb, but I'm not so pleased with the cinder blocks underneath.
I've been watering the seed (and straw) in patches for the last several days. Looks like Sandy the Hurricane might give me a little (too much) help.
The builder's superintendent AND designer said I should make a door for the loft closet to match the others I made. So, I believe this will be the last one. That's a good thing since we've just about run out of decent looking shiplap lumber. This door is very narrow -- only needs about 17 1/2" width. I cut the frame pieces down to 3" wide instead of 4" that I used for the other doors. I scrounged around enough to find three 1X10's for the door and ripped a few boards to get the frame pieces. I hope to screw it all together tomorrow after I make a couple of diagonals for the frame.
By the way, SiGmA X, the house has been somewhat on hold waiting to get the slab poured. After the foundation walls were poured, a rain filled it up. This soil does NOT percolate, so we've been waiting for it to evaporate. Just made some progress this week with the rough plumbing so we should get gravel and cement Thursday/Friday.
The Barn is looking great, looks like something you would have seen on (no offense) Little Prairie. Yes, I'm showing my age and when you're young, you don't always get to choose what channel the TV is on.
I must also say, you are one door making man.
I must also say, you are one door making man.
ODIS
Well-known member
Great build and a wonderful structure. Love the open beams and all the exposed wood.
Know all about soil not perking and will bet too, in the summer/autumn time frame, the soil is like concrete and when wet, very sticky stuff.....
Very interesting thread and well documented. Looking forward to seeing the finished product and the progress on the house.
Smart man. Build the barn/garage/shop first, then the house.
Will be watching closer and sorry I've missed all the fun till now.
Ody.
Know all about soil not perking and will bet too, in the summer/autumn time frame, the soil is like concrete and when wet, very sticky stuff.....
Very interesting thread and well documented. Looking forward to seeing the finished product and the progress on the house.
Smart man. Build the barn/garage/shop first, then the house.
Will be watching closer and sorry I've missed all the fun till now.
Ody.
NUTTSGT -- no offense on "Little House on the Prairie" comparison. Not my favorite show, but I caught it a couple of times. Had good family values, which I think is one of the reasons that folks like barns: they bring up the "right" thoughts!! I'm hoping my door-building days are over. Got the hinges and "faux straps" installed for the closet door. That should be it. Now, my next challenge may be converting 50-year-old cabinets to something useful. We removed them from the block house on the lot and I'm SURE there's a use for them somewhere.
Ody, Even the watering I'm doing to get the winter rye up is creating a certain amount of slippery and sticky mud. Everybody that has to dig on the lot (site prep, water line, underground electrical, septic system) has threatened to charge extra to dig on the pit gravel. The site prep guy stopped work to replace the teeth on his CAT; he had purchased them a month earlier, but finally decided he really needed them. The septic guy broke one of his teeth off on his little Bobcat! It's tough stuff.
I won't tell the county inspectors this, but if my wife or I sell a house before the new one is finished, we may have to "move into" the garage -- furniture, anyway. So, building the garage before the house hasn't been a bad move. The parts, tools, and equipment in my current garage would not be good to move twice, so we went with the new garage before the new house.
The "extra" expenses keep adding up. The well folks had to run an extra 45 feet of pipe and wire to reach the garage -- they had quoted for 75', ended up 120'. The electric company says it's 330 feet from the transformed to the garage. The first 150' were covered in the cost to put the overhead wires under ground. We'll have to chip in for the remaining 180'. I can't wait for something to cost LESS than expected. . . .
Ody, Even the watering I'm doing to get the winter rye up is creating a certain amount of slippery and sticky mud. Everybody that has to dig on the lot (site prep, water line, underground electrical, septic system) has threatened to charge extra to dig on the pit gravel. The site prep guy stopped work to replace the teeth on his CAT; he had purchased them a month earlier, but finally decided he really needed them. The septic guy broke one of his teeth off on his little Bobcat! It's tough stuff.
I won't tell the county inspectors this, but if my wife or I sell a house before the new one is finished, we may have to "move into" the garage -- furniture, anyway. So, building the garage before the house hasn't been a bad move. The parts, tools, and equipment in my current garage would not be good to move twice, so we went with the new garage before the new house.
The "extra" expenses keep adding up. The well folks had to run an extra 45 feet of pipe and wire to reach the garage -- they had quoted for 75', ended up 120'. The electric company says it's 330 feet from the transformed to the garage. The first 150' were covered in the cost to put the overhead wires under ground. We'll have to chip in for the remaining 180'. I can't wait for something to cost LESS than expected. . . .
It's election time and my wife and I agreed to write a note to neighbors about a local candidate that we favor. We chose to write our "neighbors-to-be" at the location of the garage/barn and house we're building so we included our address-to-be on the return address. The suggestion was made that we put up a mailbox in case any notes are returned! Sounded like a good idea.
This is what I thought would be good:
This what my wife liked:
Here is progress to date:
We got a couple of lights installed, but there are more to come.
And painting of the loft is underway. Wow, that's red!
This is what I thought would be good:
This what my wife liked:
Here is progress to date:
We got a couple of lights installed, but there are more to come.
And painting of the loft is underway. Wow, that's red!
Vernmotor
Well-known member
I like the car Box!! but the wife could have what she wanted 
Came close to finishing mailbox -- added "battens" and door framing. Not sure what to use for the "FLAG". I'm not looking forward to pulling out the post hole digger to dig a hole in this pit gravel. . . .
Electrical crew was in for about 1 1/2 hours today. They sure are not in a hurry to finish up!
Electrical crew was in for about 1 1/2 hours today. They sure are not in a hurry to finish up!
Vernmotor
Well-known member
The wife should love you for that
Seems we're getting closer and closer to being finished!! Got up most of the lights and the light/fan from the concrete block house we demolished. Looks OK!
Wasn't easy to get all 8 feet of the grounding rod into the pit gravel, but it happened. . . .
Even got the mailbox mounted on the post. I was interested to find that the USPS recommends nothing bigger than 4X4 wooden post placed 2 feet in the ground -- to avoid major injury in case of an accident. I think I saw somewhere that 100 people a year are killed by running into mailboxes! I'm in no hurry to dig a hole in the pit gravel, but I might try to do it early next week when they pour the slab for the house. I'd hope they would not miss a couple of buckets of concrete.
Wasn't easy to get all 8 feet of the grounding rod into the pit gravel, but it happened. . . .
Even got the mailbox mounted on the post. I was interested to find that the USPS recommends nothing bigger than 4X4 wooden post placed 2 feet in the ground -- to avoid major injury in case of an accident. I think I saw somewhere that 100 people a year are killed by running into mailboxes! I'm in no hurry to dig a hole in the pit gravel, but I might try to do it early next week when they pour the slab for the house. I'd hope they would not miss a couple of buckets of concrete.
That first picture really puts into perspective how big it is inside that barn. Great looking mailbox.
Hey NUTTSGT! I think the BEST perspective will come when I get a couple of vehicles in the garage!?!?!? Thanks on mailbox; still trying to figure what to use for a flag on it. The best my wife and I have come up with is a USA flag, but I'm not sure how to make that work out and still show the proper respect for it.
I think I would just keep it simple on the flag. Maybe a piece of steel for the flag and and have it powder coated red to handle the weather.
Mostly just me working at the workshop today with the exception of the HVAC guys installing the split system for the loft:
This is the outside unit with a little spray from the water sprinkler. Sure wish I could get that winter rye growing. HVAC still needs electrical hook-up and a copper line connected.
I thought I had figured a way to use up some of the leftover lumber. I planned a "sturdy", two-part bench. My thought was to use two benches with the chop saw in between when needed. So one bench is 3X2' and the other is 6X2'. The 3X6" purlins seemed to be good candidates for the frame and the 1X10" shiplap for the top. I'll run the shiplap in the 2' direction and cover with 1/8" hardboard. The thought was to make these workbenches the same height as the metal bench mentioned before in this thread. Then maybe I can use all three benches as a combined setup for the table saw.
As I was cutting the frame parts, it occurred to me that these pieces of wood are pretty heavy. Without the 1X10' shiplap installed, the 6' bench will weigh in at about 225 lbs. The 3' might tip 140 lbs. Looks like I may have to use my car dollies for moving something other than a car! But I hope it will get me off the floor with my chop saw!
The trim guy was doing some work yesterday and informed me that my stairway and bathroom doors are too big. I'm confident that I used the dimensions one of the builders gave me. Trim guy did say that the closet door would fit fine. That was the one I measured MYSELF, so it had better be right. . . . But, I had to rip about 1/2" from both sides and 1" from top and bottom. The hinges will be repositioned and the doors will have a story attached!
This is the outside unit with a little spray from the water sprinkler. Sure wish I could get that winter rye growing. HVAC still needs electrical hook-up and a copper line connected.
I thought I had figured a way to use up some of the leftover lumber. I planned a "sturdy", two-part bench. My thought was to use two benches with the chop saw in between when needed. So one bench is 3X2' and the other is 6X2'. The 3X6" purlins seemed to be good candidates for the frame and the 1X10" shiplap for the top. I'll run the shiplap in the 2' direction and cover with 1/8" hardboard. The thought was to make these workbenches the same height as the metal bench mentioned before in this thread. Then maybe I can use all three benches as a combined setup for the table saw.
As I was cutting the frame parts, it occurred to me that these pieces of wood are pretty heavy. Without the 1X10' shiplap installed, the 6' bench will weigh in at about 225 lbs. The 3' might tip 140 lbs. Looks like I may have to use my car dollies for moving something other than a car! But I hope it will get me off the floor with my chop saw!
The trim guy was doing some work yesterday and informed me that my stairway and bathroom doors are too big. I'm confident that I used the dimensions one of the builders gave me. Trim guy did say that the closet door would fit fine. That was the one I measured MYSELF, so it had better be right. . . . But, I had to rip about 1/2" from both sides and 1" from top and bottom. The hinges will be repositioned and the doors will have a story attached!
York Electric Coop was out early this morning to run underground from transformer to garage. Why is it that everyone wants to destroy my "best" stand of grass (granted, everything is relative, and my best stand is pretty sad. . . )?
Several friends stopped by to help get my wellhouse started. I heard some pretty derogatory comments during the afternoon, including:
"How many PhD's does it take to build a wellhouse?"
"You can't fix stupid."
Hmm, seems we DID have three doctorates represented among the five guys that participated either full time or part time. And, we did do some stupid things, but the frame is up!
Several friends stopped by to help get my wellhouse started. I heard some pretty derogatory comments during the afternoon, including:
"How many PhD's does it take to build a wellhouse?"
"You can't fix stupid."
Hmm, seems we DID have three doctorates represented among the five guys that participated either full time or part time. And, we did do some stupid things, but the frame is up!
upndown
Well-known member
Beautiful building Bailey!! Only problem would be..Once in you'd never get me out..
Thanks, upndown; I have a hard time staying away from the barn right now. Can't wait to REALLY get into the garage, WITH some car parts!
The wife and I were out this afternoon. While she was clearing some brush I had weed-whacked, I tried to put in a door frame for the pumphouse. Still need a little bit of work and then some 2X4 "purlins" for the roof. The Superintendent had suggested using spikes (like concrete finishers use to build up forms) to "hold down" the pumphouse. I picked up four from Home Depot and stuck 'em in the ground, 16d nail through a hole in the spike and then into the wood skid. Hope that will keep the wind from moving it off the foundation!
Neither the wife nor I had noticed as we inspected the barn on first arrival that some black switches, outlets, and plates had been installed. I don't know when THAT happened. The electricians were looking for them -- not stock item -- and I didn't realize they have found some. I sure hope the black ones are worth the extra cost; not many dollars, but seems everything costs MORE not less. . . .
The wife and I were out this afternoon. While she was clearing some brush I had weed-whacked, I tried to put in a door frame for the pumphouse. Still need a little bit of work and then some 2X4 "purlins" for the roof. The Superintendent had suggested using spikes (like concrete finishers use to build up forms) to "hold down" the pumphouse. I picked up four from Home Depot and stuck 'em in the ground, 16d nail through a hole in the spike and then into the wood skid. Hope that will keep the wind from moving it off the foundation!
Neither the wife nor I had noticed as we inspected the barn on first arrival that some black switches, outlets, and plates had been installed. I don't know when THAT happened. The electricians were looking for them -- not stock item -- and I didn't realize they have found some. I sure hope the black ones are worth the extra cost; not many dollars, but seems everything costs MORE not less. . . .
I must say it's a shame that, that little building will only house the well pump. I wasn't expecting so grand for a pump house.
NUTTSGT, Comments noted!! Actually, I hope to house some of the "yard work" hand tools in the pumphouse. And remember, I'm trying to use up some of the lumber that's sitting around. . . . AND, it's better than a "plastic rock" like you find in most yards to "camoflage" the well.
Got the "purlins" on the roof today and put a little gravel that was left over from the house basement into the pumphouse. May try a couple of sheets of OSB on the roof tomorrow, depending on how industrious I get.
The cabinets arrived this morning and installation began. Found out that "installing" cabinets doesn't necessarily mean installing counter top!
Since the cement finishers are getting ready to pour the house basement slab on Tuesday, they dug up and formed in 3' aprons at both sliding barn doors. I'm real interested in the possibility that the aprons will help me seal the bottom on the doors -- probably nylon brushes.
Got the "purlins" on the roof today and put a little gravel that was left over from the house basement into the pumphouse. May try a couple of sheets of OSB on the roof tomorrow, depending on how industrious I get.
The cabinets arrived this morning and installation began. Found out that "installing" cabinets doesn't necessarily mean installing counter top!
Since the cement finishers are getting ready to pour the house basement slab on Tuesday, they dug up and formed in 3' aprons at both sliding barn doors. I'm real interested in the possibility that the aprons will help me seal the bottom on the doors -- probably nylon brushes.
More loose ends being tied down! Got the mailbox stuck in the hole and poured some left-over cement from the house slab around the post. Even left the mail carrier a note to make sure it would work; she welcomed us to the neighborhood and said the box was fine.
The cabinet installation for the kitchenette is nearing completion. Seems there was a bit of a miscommunication between the designer and the installer. The cabinets are right at 40" to the top of the counter. That's fine with me, but my wife thinks it's too high. Maybe it will grow on her. . . .
Pendant lights were installed in kitchenette, but the fourth one (not in line with the other three) is 2 1/4" higher. Since the pendants have small pipes with the wiring running through them, they are not "infinitely" adjustable. The pipes come in 12" and 6" increments. I cut one of the 12" pieces with a pipe cutter and that worked fine. Now I need a tap to thread the inside of the tube to attach it to the fixture. After stopping by Sears and spending about 20 minutes in a hardware store, I've found that the thread is 1/8" NPT. I don't know where to find a tap, so that's one of my next projects.
Plumbing fixtures have been set. Very pleased with that. Last electrical fixtures are installed, give or take a couple of black switch/outlet plates.
The trim guy came in this morning and has just about finished. He installed the bath hardware while he was here. Took the wife by to check things out and she immediately remarked that the towel rack was slanting. I checked with a level, and sure enough, it's a faction of a bubble off. Now, how imporatant is it for the towel rack in a barn to be level?! She also noticed a 2-inch by 6-foot crack between the top stairway door and the wall. That will be added to the punch list.
While the counter top was being installed, I finished up my 3-foot workbench. I think it weighs in less than 150 lbs, but I'm not 100% confident in that. Used the left-over 3X6" purlins for legs and stretchers, 1X10" shiplap for the top and shelf (running front to back), and 1/8" hardboard for the bench top surface. If nothing else, the bench is stout! Now to get to the 6-foot bench.
The cabinet installation for the kitchenette is nearing completion. Seems there was a bit of a miscommunication between the designer and the installer. The cabinets are right at 40" to the top of the counter. That's fine with me, but my wife thinks it's too high. Maybe it will grow on her. . . .
Pendant lights were installed in kitchenette, but the fourth one (not in line with the other three) is 2 1/4" higher. Since the pendants have small pipes with the wiring running through them, they are not "infinitely" adjustable. The pipes come in 12" and 6" increments. I cut one of the 12" pieces with a pipe cutter and that worked fine. Now I need a tap to thread the inside of the tube to attach it to the fixture. After stopping by Sears and spending about 20 minutes in a hardware store, I've found that the thread is 1/8" NPT. I don't know where to find a tap, so that's one of my next projects.
Plumbing fixtures have been set. Very pleased with that. Last electrical fixtures are installed, give or take a couple of black switch/outlet plates.
The trim guy came in this morning and has just about finished. He installed the bath hardware while he was here. Took the wife by to check things out and she immediately remarked that the towel rack was slanting. I checked with a level, and sure enough, it's a faction of a bubble off. Now, how imporatant is it for the towel rack in a barn to be level?! She also noticed a 2-inch by 6-foot crack between the top stairway door and the wall. That will be added to the punch list.
While the counter top was being installed, I finished up my 3-foot workbench. I think it weighs in less than 150 lbs, but I'm not 100% confident in that. Used the left-over 3X6" purlins for legs and stretchers, 1X10" shiplap for the top and shelf (running front to back), and 1/8" hardboard for the bench top surface. If nothing else, the bench is stout! Now to get to the 6-foot bench.
Vernmotor
Well-known member
So what are all the signs around the mail box ??
Hey Vern. . . The builder felt he should put up signs to indicate he's doing the work as well as the guy doing the site prep. I stuck up a "No Trespassing" sign after we had someone leave several wheelbarrow loads of rose and lilly cuttings on the site. I even had a friend's county council ad stuck in amongst the signs at one time -- election day is over so that sign is gone. I suppose we'll only have the mailbox left when the house is complete!
horizontallyopposed
Well-known member
Lovely barn!
Vernmotor
Well-known member
OK on the signs LOL I just wonder..they look like they was ment to be there a while.
Got back home after 8 days of "vacation" with family between here and Lakeland, FL, and back. Progress on workshop was encouraging in my absence -- don't know HOW they knew what to do without my supervision!?!
The loft is looking pretty good. The extra height of the cabinet counter means taller toe board is needed -- on order, maybe delivered this week. We'll see.
Also looks like all electrical is complete including 220V for welder -- except one light bulb is burned out and a back-ordered black 4-gang switch plate hasn't arrived.
Will check tomorrow AM to see if septic system has been powered up. . . . We figured we had better ask before testing it out.
The loft is looking pretty good. The extra height of the cabinet counter means taller toe board is needed -- on order, maybe delivered this week. We'll see.
Also looks like all electrical is complete including 220V for welder -- except one light bulb is burned out and a back-ordered black 4-gang switch plate hasn't arrived.
Will check tomorrow AM to see if septic system has been powered up. . . . We figured we had better ask before testing it out.
Nope, septic was not powered up yesterday, but now it is. Really not much left to do except get rid of some lumber, toeboards for cabinets, and finish pumphouse (OK, and fab 6' workbench, install storage shelves, mount downstairs cabinets, etc., etc.). Only the toeboards are on someone else's to-do list. . . .
Based upon seeing some work done with mobile table saws, e.g.:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/30738
mobile drill presses, e. g.:
http://community.woodmagazine.com/t5/Tools-and-Tool-Buying/Mobile-Base-for-Drill-Press/td-p/109524
and other mobile tools, I decided to give it a try with my 3', 150 lb workbench. I was flying by the seat of my pants instead of planning it out with sketches, dimensions, and such. I had to backtrack a couple of times, but the final results seemed to work.
I put casters on two hinged boards; I liked the idea of three casters for some reason.
Then I attached a 1/2" black iron pipe to a flange on each hinged board.
When the "levers" are pulled, the bench becomes mobile. I had to figure a way to keep the levers in the raised position, so I made a couple of "L" blocks. These blocks are loose, so I inserted a couple of lag screws just below the position of the blocks to keep them from sliding down while the workbench is moved. The pressure from the hinged boards keeps the pipes against the blocks, otherwise. I'll use these blocks on the 6' workbench too (when I get it built).
It wasn't easy, but I was able to back the car trailer down the "winding drive" that my wife wanted to give character to our entry -- sure would have been easier with a straight shot, but I like the curves, as well. Had to unload some early packing for our up-coming move (in several months) so I'd be prepared to help my son move his Vanagon from Raleigh to Charleston. It all worked out OK (emptying the trailer, that is; haven't gotten the Vanagon, yet).
We got the CO (Certificate of Occupancy), so I guess this is all legal. I'm really excited about possibility of getting some car parts in the workshop!
Based upon seeing some work done with mobile table saws, e.g.:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/30738
mobile drill presses, e. g.:
http://community.woodmagazine.com/t5/Tools-and-Tool-Buying/Mobile-Base-for-Drill-Press/td-p/109524
and other mobile tools, I decided to give it a try with my 3', 150 lb workbench. I was flying by the seat of my pants instead of planning it out with sketches, dimensions, and such. I had to backtrack a couple of times, but the final results seemed to work.
I put casters on two hinged boards; I liked the idea of three casters for some reason.
Then I attached a 1/2" black iron pipe to a flange on each hinged board.
When the "levers" are pulled, the bench becomes mobile. I had to figure a way to keep the levers in the raised position, so I made a couple of "L" blocks. These blocks are loose, so I inserted a couple of lag screws just below the position of the blocks to keep them from sliding down while the workbench is moved. The pressure from the hinged boards keeps the pipes against the blocks, otherwise. I'll use these blocks on the 6' workbench too (when I get it built).
It wasn't easy, but I was able to back the car trailer down the "winding drive" that my wife wanted to give character to our entry -- sure would have been easier with a straight shot, but I like the curves, as well. Had to unload some early packing for our up-coming move (in several months) so I'd be prepared to help my son move his Vanagon from Raleigh to Charleston. It all worked out OK (emptying the trailer, that is; haven't gotten the Vanagon, yet).
We got the CO (Certificate of Occupancy), so I guess this is all legal. I'm really excited about possibility of getting some car parts in the workshop!
piston farmer
Well-known member
I know your long past the part of spreading straw, but the way they do it up here on large areas is to use a big chipper feed the bales in and point the outlet where they want to cover, spreads it out fast and even. impressive to watch. Beautiful barn you have!
8 days of vacations ? How dare you take vacation when we are trying to follow along !
After the work you have done, I think it's well earned. The loft looks great.
After the work you have done, I think it's well earned.
The loft looks great.Piston -- yep, down South they use a similar approach for large areas. Sometimes it looks like they've spread kudzu seeds instead of grass! My "grassy area" wasn't big enough (nor my wallet) to take the "easy" approach. My aches and pains from spreading seed and straw have gone away, but I have other pains from some of the additional work. Thanks for the kind comment.
Sorry NUTTSGT. It was a "vacation" with in-laws! But, we did have a good time and I was pleased with the progress when we returned. My wife is already talking about how to arrange furniture in the loft should we have to move in there before the house is built. . . .
Sorry NUTTSGT. It was a "vacation" with in-laws! But, we did have a good time and I was pleased with the progress when we returned. My wife is already talking about how to arrange furniture in the loft should we have to move in there before the house is built. . . .
Gee, can you believe it? Rockler sells casters designed to lift workbenches, for "only" $80. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?site=ROCKLER&page=30842
Now, let's see, the system I put together in post #146 was about $25 for casters, $10 for nuts and bolts, $10 for the 1/2" pipe, and $12 for the threaded flanges (the wood was free -- scrap). So, for another $15-20 I could have avoided all that design and work in fabricating the system! I found the Rockler casters in a woodshop magazine I purchased this weekend. I wonder why I didn't find that magazine a week ago? Oh well, I guess I would have missed all that fun.
Now, let's see, the system I put together in post #146 was about $25 for casters, $10 for nuts and bolts, $10 for the 1/2" pipe, and $12 for the threaded flanges (the wood was free -- scrap). So, for another $15-20 I could have avoided all that design and work in fabricating the system! I found the Rockler casters in a woodshop magazine I purchased this weekend. I wonder why I didn't find that magazine a week ago? Oh well, I guess I would have missed all that fun.
Got the boards up on most of two sides of the pumphouse before it got too dark to see the nailheads. Of course, being able to see the nails didn't seem to help too much. I'm still hammering like lightning; never hitting the same place twice.
The toeboards and fridge cabinet were finished up today. The cabinet guy left me some material to trim out the countertop-to-wall joint. In fact, he went ahead and installed a couple of pieces. Don't know what his boss will say about that, but I'm pleased.
The toeboards and fridge cabinet were finished up today. The cabinet guy left me some material to trim out the countertop-to-wall joint. In fact, he went ahead and installed a couple of pieces. Don't know what his boss will say about that, but I'm pleased.
Finished putting the boards on the pumphouse this AM. Started doing a little trim on the outside and had to remove half of what I did. Then it started drizzling rain!
So, I moved inside and put together a frame for a bathroom mirror. The wife suggested that a fairly big mirror would make the bathroom look bigger. I put 3" "trim" lumber around a 24X32" mirror. It pretty much fills up the space between the sink and light fixture, wall and shower stall. Used some of the left-over shiplap that already had a grove cut for the lap. Ripped down to about 3" and used the rough side out. I found that the "L" shaped straps were not going to be enough, so added a straight strap at each corner. Its pretty heavy with the large, glass mirror and 1" thick boards, but the wife likes it! The cardboard "wedges" are her idea; I plan to replace with wooden wedges -- need them to keep the 1/4" mirror from rattling in the frame.
So, I moved inside and put together a frame for a bathroom mirror. The wife suggested that a fairly big mirror would make the bathroom look bigger. I put 3" "trim" lumber around a 24X32" mirror. It pretty much fills up the space between the sink and light fixture, wall and shower stall. Used some of the left-over shiplap that already had a grove cut for the lap. Ripped down to about 3" and used the rough side out. I found that the "L" shaped straps were not going to be enough, so added a straight strap at each corner. Its pretty heavy with the large, glass mirror and 1" thick boards, but the wife likes it! The cardboard "wedges" are her idea; I plan to replace with wooden wedges -- need them to keep the 1/4" mirror from rattling in the frame.
Last edited:
Didn't get to the shop until after lunch -- doctor's appointment this AM.
Finished some of the trim around the pumphouse and got battens on the back wall.
Also, replaced a burned out element on the water heater from the demolished house on the property. I guess nothing is free! Don't like to work with 240V so called electrician to connect for me.
Here's a view from the loft. Wish I could get rid of most of this wood and get my vehicles inside! Lots of left-overs from boards and battens for pumphouse. Should finish that up in a few days. It seems to be taking me longer to complete the pumphouse than it did for the crew to build the whole barn! BUT, there were 4 or 5 of them. . . .
Finished some of the trim around the pumphouse and got battens on the back wall.
Also, replaced a burned out element on the water heater from the demolished house on the property. I guess nothing is free! Don't like to work with 240V so called electrician to connect for me.
Here's a view from the loft. Wish I could get rid of most of this wood and get my vehicles inside! Lots of left-overs from boards and battens for pumphouse. Should finish that up in a few days. It seems to be taking me longer to complete the pumphouse than it did for the crew to build the whole barn! BUT, there were 4 or 5 of them. . . .
Vernmotor
Well-known member
That pump house is over kill !!! very nice
Took most of the day to finish the battens all around and put trim on the doorway (outside, only). I guess I've been putting off roofing since while installing the sheets of OSB I confirmed that the pumphouse is not square! Maybe I'll do some fascia boards tomorrow and make it LOOK square.
I think I finished my LAST door -- for the pumphouse. The boards I have left are in pretty rough shape, lots of cupping. I'm not sure I can get them to flatten out on the door!
I think I finished my LAST door -- for the pumphouse. The boards I have left are in pretty rough shape, lots of cupping. I'm not sure I can get them to flatten out on the door!
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Don't worry about the cupping boards for the door; it's just a SHED! But please don't forget to cut the crescent moon shape into the door. lol
Omph, you sound like the superintendent! Every time my wife points out a "flaw" in the workshop, he reminds her, "It's a barn, not the Biltmore House." Of course, that doesn't go down too well with her!?! Yep, don't know what I'll do about the crescent moon; it's a bit large for an outhouse, but it certainly has that look. . . .
Wow that was fast, here but now the spammer is gone.
I think it looks like a multi stall outhouse.
All those left over boards laying around will make some nice kindling if you had a fire place or wood burner.
I think it looks like a multi stall outhouse.
All those left over boards laying around will make some nice kindling if you had a fire place or wood burner.