HOTFR8
Banned
I didn't see the crescent cut out of the door.
You only have the crescent on an out house door.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Bailey's Barn Build
- Thread starter mwbailey
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
You only have the crescent on an out house door.
I finally got around to starting the 6-foot section of my two-part workbench. Still hoping the two pieces can be used in conjunction with chop saw or table saw to provide useful outfeed surfaces. I thought I might need my engine hoist to turn this one right side up. Amazingly, all four legs are touching the ground. I may not be able to move it anywhere else and have all four touching, but. . . .
While working on the bench, we had a pretty good rain. I was pleased to see the sliding barn door with the brush "seal" kept the water out, while the other one that doesn't have the brush installed yet did not. I stuck a couple of 2X4's in the path of the intruding water to slow progress.
Poor quality photos from cell phone.
While working on the bench, we had a pretty good rain. I was pleased to see the sliding barn door with the brush "seal" kept the water out, while the other one that doesn't have the brush installed yet did not. I stuck a couple of 2X4's in the path of the intruding water to slow progress.
Poor quality photos from cell phone.
Finished up the 6-foot workbench WITH wheels. Moved the 3-footer up to see if they were about the same height -- hard to see in cell phone picture, but the level "says" they are, roughly!!
Next step is to mount the chop saw (and maybe table saw) on a platform to go between the two benches.
Oh, the wife says she thinks hummingbird feeders are a good idea. I think that the hummingbirds can wait until we finish the house. . . .
Next step is to mount the chop saw (and maybe table saw) on a platform to go between the two benches.
Oh, the wife says she thinks hummingbird feeders are a good idea. I think that the hummingbirds can wait until we finish the house. . . .
Vernmotor
Well-known member
So you let her read this or did you just tell her about it ? Is she calling you Mr.flower pot . did she go awww that's cute 
Vern, The wife chose to vacation with "the girls" where Internet connection and E-mail access is limited -- they don't like for guests to receive pictures, I'm told. So, for her to see the progress, she goes to GJ. Can you believe it?! No, she would not call me Mr. Flower Pot -- to my face. . . .
This is why the pumphouse doesn't have the crescent moon cutout. It really DOES have a use as garden tools storage.
I thought I'd make a "theme" paper towel holder using an idea I saw somewhere on the Internet. The base is tongue and groove from the loft flooring. The shortest "long" screwdriver I could find was a little too much, as you can see. I figured I would just cut it to the correct length! I've already ruined my saber saw and pipe cutter blades. . . . However, the lengthy screwdriver did come in handy installing the brushes on the sliding barn doors. It helped to reach the last screw in the brush bracket which was almost up against the door frame.
I thought I'd make a "theme" paper towel holder using an idea I saw somewhere on the Internet. The base is tongue and groove from the loft flooring. The shortest "long" screwdriver I could find was a little too much, as you can see. I figured I would just cut it to the correct length! I've already ruined my saber saw and pipe cutter blades. . . . However, the lengthy screwdriver did come in handy installing the brushes on the sliding barn doors. It helped to reach the last screw in the brush bracket which was almost up against the door frame.
Well, seems we're coming close to the end of this garage build. A little cleaning up (well, actually, a LOT of cleaning up) and some moving in, and it will all be over. To help clean up, here are a couple of the latest projects -- a lumber rack and a parts/fastener bin carriage (the latter was a Christmas gift from the wife):
The lumber rack has four 5-inch casters (with something like 500 or 700 pound capacity, each!) below the 3x6" boards. I didn't have time to put anything except the leftover tongue-and-groove flooring on the rack before I closed up shop today. At first, I put everything on one of the side racks. That didn't work too well -- that rack was a little unbalanced. With the weight in the middle, it rolls VERY well. The rack is about 6 feet long and the top is about 6'6" high so I don't bump my head on it -- I've placed a few sheets of (narrow) OSB on the top for storage. Each arm is 5 feet long with the 3X6's spaced 2 feet apart. I hope it will hold a lot of lumber. . . .
The bin carriage is also on rollers. Seems everything in the shop is mobile! Until I decide where everything goes, the more easily moved, the better.
The lumber rack has four 5-inch casters (with something like 500 or 700 pound capacity, each!) below the 3x6" boards. I didn't have time to put anything except the leftover tongue-and-groove flooring on the rack before I closed up shop today. At first, I put everything on one of the side racks. That didn't work too well -- that rack was a little unbalanced. With the weight in the middle, it rolls VERY well. The rack is about 6 feet long and the top is about 6'6" high so I don't bump my head on it -- I've placed a few sheets of (narrow) OSB on the top for storage. Each arm is 5 feet long with the 3X6's spaced 2 feet apart. I hope it will hold a lot of lumber. . . .
The bin carriage is also on rollers. Seems everything in the shop is mobile! Until I decide where everything goes, the more easily moved, the better.
Happy New Year to all!
My mother said that what you do on New Years Day is what you'll do for the rest of the year. I hope that plays out for 2013; I spent most of the day working in the shop. Actually, maybe most of 2013 will be working on vehicles instead of cleaning up. . . .
I got the lumber rack pretty well loaded. Near the end I told myself each piece was the final piece so I didn't overload it -- then I would find another board I just HAD to put on the rack. Today I decided to put together a "bin" for other scrap pieces. It's basically a two-rail fence that's 3 feet high and 3X4 feet. I figured I'd partition it off in halves so I would put shorter, rough lumber in one half and longer, finished boards in the other. Turns out I have too many short, rough pieces. Oh well, it did help some in the organization.
I also filled up many of the bins in my new carriage, with help from the wife!
My mother said that what you do on New Years Day is what you'll do for the rest of the year. I hope that plays out for 2013; I spent most of the day working in the shop. Actually, maybe most of 2013 will be working on vehicles instead of cleaning up. . . .
I got the lumber rack pretty well loaded. Near the end I told myself each piece was the final piece so I didn't overload it -- then I would find another board I just HAD to put on the rack. Today I decided to put together a "bin" for other scrap pieces. It's basically a two-rail fence that's 3 feet high and 3X4 feet. I figured I'd partition it off in halves so I would put shorter, rough lumber in one half and longer, finished boards in the other. Turns out I have too many short, rough pieces. Oh well, it did help some in the organization.
I also filled up many of the bins in my new carriage, with help from the wife!
HOTFR8
Banned
Progress once again.
Whoa, looka heyah -- more, albeit minor, progress HOTFR8!! We spec'ed a "neo-angle" shower stall for the loft expecting that would save space and money. OK of former, questionable on latter if you install a glass door ($500-700) or even a shower rod ($70-100). I figured I could take the workshop theme a step further and make my own shower rod. Got Home Depot to cut a 10-foot length of 1/2" galvanized pipe into two 5-footers and thread both. They had already threaded 5-footer for about $15. The 10-foot was about $13.50 and threading was another 50 cents or so. Neither the employee nor I could quite figure that pricing, but I've seen a discussion of that in GJ before, I think. Anyway, Mr. Employee didn't think I was going to be able to bend the pipe, but I thought I would give it a try.
I needed 18 1/2" then 45-degree then 22" then 45-degree then 18 1/2". The ends would be threaded into flanges mounted to wood on the walls above the shower. Here's my bending rig. The wife had given me a 3.5 ton jack for Christmas so I used the handle as a cheater bar. Somewhere along the line, somebody had cut a curved piece of wood for the workshop; I can't figure where it was needed, but the scrap helped me out. I tried clamping and bending -- hard to clamp round stock. Then I got the bright idea of the jig. I tried on a scrap piece of 1/2" pipe before the "real thing". It seemed to work OK. So, here it is WITH the shower curtain I gave the wife for Christmas:
Take a close look at the curtain; what do you think? OK, so it's hard to see, but the curtain has a hot rod theme. And the curtain rod looks pretty good, huh?
I needed 18 1/2" then 45-degree then 22" then 45-degree then 18 1/2". The ends would be threaded into flanges mounted to wood on the walls above the shower. Here's my bending rig. The wife had given me a 3.5 ton jack for Christmas so I used the handle as a cheater bar. Somewhere along the line, somebody had cut a curved piece of wood for the workshop; I can't figure where it was needed, but the scrap helped me out. I tried clamping and bending -- hard to clamp round stock. Then I got the bright idea of the jig. I tried on a scrap piece of 1/2" pipe before the "real thing". It seemed to work OK. So, here it is WITH the shower curtain I gave the wife for Christmas:
Take a close look at the curtain; what do you think? OK, so it's hard to see, but the curtain has a hot rod theme. And the curtain rod looks pretty good, huh?
Last edited:
Shower curtain looks good, surprised the wife didn't buy one with flowers !
Well, it's not the kinda shin-dig that Don Long would put on, but we did have a "Belated Barn Raisin'" celebration this past weekend at the workshop. It's hard to beat BBQ and Bluegrass in a barn. Seemed most folks had a great time. We didn't specify that guests should drive hot rods or classics, but I did see an early 70's red Karman Ghia parked in the drive!
The primary purpose was to thank and recognize those folks responsible for making the project a success -- from realtor to building crew to electrician to cabinet maker to. . . . And, of course, there were several friends and family members that provided advice along the way!?!
The primary purpose was to thank and recognize those folks responsible for making the project a success -- from realtor to building crew to electrician to cabinet maker to. . . . And, of course, there were several friends and family members that provided advice along the way!?!
Looking at those pics makes me think a nice pool table with red felt would look good in there.
NASMAN
Well-known member
Great looking party, really great looking barn.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Now, that's a true barn raising party! That Bluegrass band is icing on the cake. Just curious what the ages are of the band members? They look 'mature' enough to be playing when Bluegrass was still green! lol
Hey Omph, You're "right on" with the age of at least three of the band members. The banjo player had a heart attack eight years ago and the barn was a little drafty for him -- he was on a blood-thinning medicine. The bass player has had several strokes and claims to have jammed with a couple of The Beatles on his honeymoon in London. I suppose that Ethan, the mandolin player, might be in his early 40's. So, he's a young whipper-snapper, as they say.
SpeedinLemon
Well-known member
Hi MWB -- Great looking barn. I just read through the entire thread yesterday and today. I love the wood!! Great job on the doors..very impressive. I know it had to be a longer and more expensive process than a steel or other building type, but people will be enjoying your barn hundreds of years after we're all gone...something to be proud of for sure! I'm looking forward to following as you continue on. And on the well house, a quote from a guy I've seen around here comes to mind: "Too Much is.....Just Enough".
Great work sir...I truly enjoyed this one.
Chris
Great work sir...I truly enjoyed this one.
Chris
Great looking barn. I can't decide which I like better, the inside, or the outside. Like the way you have it sited. Barns, old or new are one of my favorite things. Country needs more barns, and less McMansions... 
Keep up the good work, and keep on posting pics.
John
Keep up the good work, and keep on posting pics.
John
Hey Lemon & Tarnished -- thanks for comments. I have checked both of your builds in the past. Looks like Lemon has more in mind for his shop than just a garage; looks great. I'll start moving in some tools for my garage over the next few weeks, but I doubt I'll ever catch up with Tarnished! I like tools. . . .
Before bringing over tools, I figured I had better prepare a place for them. I had some cabinets I had saved from cinder block house we removed from property several months back:
So, I repaired a drawer front, sanded the outsides a bit (tools aren't too particular about what the insides look like, I hope), sprayed some satiin black to match hardware in garage, and moved inside. I'll fab a top from the left-over shiplap in the next few days, I hope.
It only took 3 1/2 cans of spray paint. Here are the empty cans to prove it:
Somewhere along the line I need to decide where to put up the signs we received at the BBQ and Bluegrass celebration. The wife says she wants to "help"!
Before bringing over tools, I figured I had better prepare a place for them. I had some cabinets I had saved from cinder block house we removed from property several months back:
So, I repaired a drawer front, sanded the outsides a bit (tools aren't too particular about what the insides look like, I hope), sprayed some satiin black to match hardware in garage, and moved inside. I'll fab a top from the left-over shiplap in the next few days, I hope.
It only took 3 1/2 cans of spray paint. Here are the empty cans to prove it:
Somewhere along the line I need to decide where to put up the signs we received at the BBQ and Bluegrass celebration. The wife says she wants to "help"!
Since I needed to cut some left-over shiplap lumber into 24" lengths to put on top of "repurposed" kitchen cabinet, I thought I'd try to finish the workbenches so I could get the chop saw off of the floor! My plans had been to use the 3-foot and 6-foot benches together with my small table saw as well as the chop saw. I worked with the table saw first and located the proper height so top of saw and tops of benches were at same level. Fastened 2X4's to benches to support 2X4's attached to 3/4" plywood as saw table. Almost finished in this photo:
Used 1/2" dowels to help ensure proper bench location.
Then tried to do the same with chop saw but didn't have room for 2X4 supports attached to bench. Hoping the 1/2" dowels will support the full load. Added a couple of 2X4's on edge under chop saw to raise level to that of benches; I needed to plane off about 3/16" to get things lined up. I'll just leave this saw on the "adjusted" 2X4's when not in use.
Haven't tried disassembling benches. Hope they'll line back up!
Got the shiplap cut but not attached to cabinet. Plan to do that tomorrow along with 1/8" hardboard on top.
Used 1/2" dowels to help ensure proper bench location.
Then tried to do the same with chop saw but didn't have room for 2X4 supports attached to bench. Hoping the 1/2" dowels will support the full load. Added a couple of 2X4's on edge under chop saw to raise level to that of benches; I needed to plane off about 3/16" to get things lined up. I'll just leave this saw on the "adjusted" 2X4's when not in use.
Haven't tried disassembling benches. Hope they'll line back up!
Got the shiplap cut but not attached to cabinet. Plan to do that tomorrow along with 1/8" hardboard on top.
MoparTrucks
Well-known member
I too just found this build and really enjoyed the thread. I really like the monitor style barns and yours has an older look similar to a tobacco barn (I used to live in NC). I will also say your pump house has an Ozark look to it with the large overhang in front.
Are you doing something similar to your barn with your house design?
Are you doing something similar to your barn with your house design?
Killer, Sal, Glad you enjoyed the build. Frankly, it helps me to look back at the process!! And, of course, it's great to get ideas from others on GJ. Yep, being a SC "native" (I moved around a bit as a child and college student), I like the tobacco barn look. I'll have to check out the Ozarks. . . . As I noted, one reason for the Southern Yellow Pine building materials is due to my lifelong connection to these trees -- my father as a forester and myself as an engineer converting woodpulp into cellulose acetate! The house will lean toward Country French, or is it French Country? So, the barn style will fit it, but won't be matched (except for the shingles).
Finished the counter top today to match the workbenches -- left-over shiplap plus 1/8" hardboard tops. Installed a rough cut 1X2 vertically down the middle (lengthwise) to give a little more support:
Here's the next project -- sanding, painting, and installing overhead cabinets from the demolished block house. These units came as a "pair" from the block house and were not actually arranged as the photo, below. However, I think this might be the best arrangement for over the counter just completed.
Finished the counter top today to match the workbenches -- left-over shiplap plus 1/8" hardboard tops. Installed a rough cut 1X2 vertically down the middle (lengthwise) to give a little more support:
Here's the next project -- sanding, painting, and installing overhead cabinets from the demolished block house. These units came as a "pair" from the block house and were not actually arranged as the photo, below. However, I think this might be the best arrangement for over the counter just completed.
Tarnished, Well I was tired of doing all my sawing on the floor so figured to finish off the cabinet top I'd get the saw a little higher. The chop saw worked fine with the "precision adjustments" but when I tried to reinstall the table saw to rip a board, I only got three of the four pins back in. Of course, the table was support by the 2X4's, so I didn't worry too much. A little fine-tuning seems to be called for.
I have plans to do something similar with a radial arm and a compound miter at some point. Thought I would put 1 on each end of a bench and use the bench as table for both. Want to make it adjustable for when I replace CMS. The are NEVER the same height. Would be to easy to make a standard. Have to figure out way to shim to level of bench top. couple of nice examples on here, but the thread escapes me.
Great build, what do you have planned for the house?
John
Would be to easy to make a standard. Have to figure out way to shim to level of bench top. couple of nice examples on here, but the thread escapes me. Great build, what do you have planned for the house?
John
Hey John/Tarnished, I'm not that deep into woodworking, so I doubt I'll be investing in another saw. That means (maybe!?) that my original settings to get my saws at bench level should hold. We'll see. But I agree with you that a standard dimension would be good -- someone told me recently that if he were President, he would standardize a lot more stuff. . . .
The house is on hold at the moment looking for proper financial arrangements. We got foundation, walls, and slab poured:
Drawings don't do it justice, but here is what we're working toward. All the "important" rooms on top floor with two bedrooms, baths, and a playroom in the walkout basement. Patio in foundation photo faces the water.
The house is on hold at the moment looking for proper financial arrangements. We got foundation, walls, and slab poured:
Drawings don't do it justice, but here is what we're working toward. All the "important" rooms on top floor with two bedrooms, baths, and a playroom in the walkout basement. Patio in foundation photo faces the water.
So, I have this MEL 383/430 engine from about 1960 that is supposed to go in my Model T hot rod, whenever THAT happens. It's around 700 pounds of iron sitting around the shop that has to be moved to the new garage. I didn't like the engine cradle I had it in (this is the "remains" and you can still see the depression caused by the oil pan):
Therefore, I put together a mobile (everything in the garage seems to be on wheels!?!) cradle/dolly using some more of the 3X6" purlins left behind and a couple of pieces of 2X6's. With tools in two places, I was using the rough measurements from the engine I had taken a few days ago and my memory to space the boards out; the engine wasn't in the garage where the tools I needed were. The block of iron was still attached to my cherry picker in case the make-shift "cradle" shifted! On the way to try the new cradle out, the thought came to me that I probably wanted to leave the cherry picker attached in case my new cradle fell apart. But would the cradle fit between the cherry picker's legs. . . ? Things worked out OK except I had not noticed the crankcase vent are the bottom, left rear of the engine. I'm not keen on the small 2X4 blocks I had to use. I'll just see if it stays put for a couple of days in its current location. Note that the engine is still sitting between the cherry picker legs with chain securely fastened!!
Therefore, I put together a mobile (everything in the garage seems to be on wheels!?!) cradle/dolly using some more of the 3X6" purlins left behind and a couple of pieces of 2X6's. With tools in two places, I was using the rough measurements from the engine I had taken a few days ago and my memory to space the boards out; the engine wasn't in the garage where the tools I needed were. The block of iron was still attached to my cherry picker in case the make-shift "cradle" shifted! On the way to try the new cradle out, the thought came to me that I probably wanted to leave the cherry picker attached in case my new cradle fell apart. But would the cradle fit between the cherry picker's legs. . . ? Things worked out OK except I had not noticed the crankcase vent are the bottom, left rear of the engine. I'm not keen on the small 2X4 blocks I had to use. I'll just see if it stays put for a couple of days in its current location. Note that the engine is still sitting between the cherry picker legs with chain securely fastened!!
The wife has been concerned with the unfinished floor in the garage loft and we finally got around to having the floor finished. The guys doing the work didn't notice that there was no subfloor -- just 2 inches of tongue and groove. So, when they started applying the sealer, some leaked through to the concrete below. They said it took almost 2 gallons of thinner to get it cleaned up. THEN they placed a plastic cover underneath the loft floor. We were all glad that there were no cars under the loft. Fortunately, there wasn't much of anything down there. . . .
They applied two coats of sealer and one final of satin finish varnish. That was done over a three-day period. Except that I haven't pulled the plastic "drop cloth" back to see what the concrete looks like, we're pretty well pleased. I guess now the wife can run around in the loft barefooted and not worry about it!
They applied two coats of sealer and one final of satin finish varnish. That was done over a three-day period. Except that I haven't pulled the plastic "drop cloth" back to see what the concrete looks like, we're pretty well pleased. I guess now the wife can run around in the loft barefooted and not worry about it!
Bailey, Wow! House is going to be great! Keep us updated. And you loft floors are killer. I would love to have wooden floors in my shop, but..... Maybe someday. Hell, I'd be glad just to have warmth... Glad they didn't muck up the first floor with there forgetfulness.
Glad they didn't muck up the first floor with there forgetfulness. The wife suggested where to put up some signs we got from the barn raisin' celebration. So, I put them there! The Oldsmobile sign was a relic from my prior workshop; others from celebration:
Sanded the wall cabinets from the demolished block house, but it was too cold to spray paint outside (don't want to do it inside for fear of paint drifting. . . .).
Tarnished, The wife is almost as pleased with the floors as you!?!?! She checked them out today. I also pulled back the plastic "drop cloths" on the floor below -- nothing major from leak-through finish, thank goodness.
Sanded the wall cabinets from the demolished block house, but it was too cold to spray paint outside (don't want to do it inside for fear of paint drifting. . . .).
Tarnished, The wife is almost as pleased with the floors as you!?!?! She checked them out today. I also pulled back the plastic "drop cloths" on the floor below -- nothing major from leak-through finish, thank goodness.
Got the wall cabinets sprayed today -- must have been in the 60's outside, with sun! Doing some head-scratching about how to put them up. I can't get them against the girts since the cabinets are 91" wide/long and the angle braces on the posts will interfer. Could mount on the horizontal beam, but that would be really high. Hmm. . . .
Also started ripping some shiplap to put trim around the floor -- instead of "quarter-round". The shiplap is 7/8" thick and it looks like the trim guy made square trim where it has been installed. Now that the floors are finished in the loft and it's beginning to look like the "Biltmore House", we'll need to close the crack in the floor and make things look a little more "finished"!! At least, that's what the wife says.
Also started ripping some shiplap to put trim around the floor -- instead of "quarter-round". The shiplap is 7/8" thick and it looks like the trim guy made square trim where it has been installed. Now that the floors are finished in the loft and it's beginning to look like the "Biltmore House", we'll need to close the crack in the floor and make things look a little more "finished"!! At least, that's what the wife says.
Got some of the 7/8X7/8" trim pieces down on the loft floor. Had to knotch a couple of places to allow for the posts. Also, filled the larger crack at the "exterior" wall (see prior post) with Great Stuff. The wife thinks the trim helps. I'd agree with that in the bath; here are before and after shots:
The crack at the end of one board is evident in the before, but is covered in the after. Don't have all of these nailed down, yet. Maybe finish up tomorrow.
The crack at the end of one board is evident in the before, but is covered in the after. Don't have all of these nailed down, yet. Maybe finish up tomorrow.
Well, I'm not a big fan of "Great Stuff" -- mostly operator error, but there was foam in the cracks, foam on the floor, foam on my hands, and foam on the door knog. Gee, that [Great] stuff sticks EVERYwhere. But it probably will help with drafts and pests.
I think I'm finished with the floor trim. Got the loft walls, bath, and even the little broom closet fixed up. I think I got carried away with some of the smaller pieces!
I think I'm finished with the floor trim. Got the loft walls, bath, and even the little broom closet fixed up. I think I got carried away with some of the smaller pieces!
HOTFR8
Banned
I love the timber finish.
HOTFR8
Banned
I had to do a catch up on yours as I have been once again busy on my extensions. Now I will have to wait to see these wall cabinets.
Well, wall cabinets are hanging. Approach I had in mind worked out OK. Since I could not hang full 91" against the wall due to vertical 6X6" posts and diagonal braces getting in the way, I decided to fasten a 1X3" horizontally between two diagonal braces (the wife's idea, but don't tell her I used it) plus a piece of 3X6" cut to 6" long to match the offset required by the posts (and stuck in the middle), like so:
Then I attached 1X3" lumber to the rear of the two pieces of wall cabinets, like this:
This is not quite the cleat-type attachment seen in a lot of woodworking magazines, but it helped when mounting the cabinets to the wall and will give a little additional support (I hope). I did get a friend to help me lift the cabinets to the wall and hold them while I screwed them to the horizontal 1X3". That worked out OK, but the cabinets wanted to hang with a slant since the bottoms were not in touch with the workshop wall. Added a couple of short pieces of 1X3" battens as "stand-offs". Once these were screwed into the cabinets and to the girt, things got pretty solid.
There were a few problems! Someone didn't do a really good job of either measuring or cutting the support to be placed on the wall. I thought I had allowed 3/4" at each end for the plywood cabinet side walls that extended past the rear wall. That should have been 89 1/2", but that ended up being 1/4" too long, so there's a 1/4" gap between the two cabinet pieces. No big deal, but I had not painted the sides of the cabinets that I felt would be adjacent to each other and not showing. So, I tried spraying the unpainted gap -- not a good idea. Not sure why, but the paint bubbled up where the overspray hit the existing paint; maybe the temperature was too low. . . .
When the doors were installed, I noticed that the ones on the left opened AWAY from the center of the bench -- that is, the door is in the way if you're working at the bench. Again, no big deal, but if I had designed from scratch, I would have opened doors differently!
The way they were installed in the house that we demolished, it made sense. Here are the two cabinets on either side of the sink before removal. Are they recognizable?!
From a distance, they look pretty good in their new home.
Then I attached 1X3" lumber to the rear of the two pieces of wall cabinets, like this:
This is not quite the cleat-type attachment seen in a lot of woodworking magazines, but it helped when mounting the cabinets to the wall and will give a little additional support (I hope). I did get a friend to help me lift the cabinets to the wall and hold them while I screwed them to the horizontal 1X3". That worked out OK, but the cabinets wanted to hang with a slant since the bottoms were not in touch with the workshop wall. Added a couple of short pieces of 1X3" battens as "stand-offs". Once these were screwed into the cabinets and to the girt, things got pretty solid.
There were a few problems! Someone didn't do a really good job of either measuring or cutting the support to be placed on the wall. I thought I had allowed 3/4" at each end for the plywood cabinet side walls that extended past the rear wall. That should have been 89 1/2", but that ended up being 1/4" too long, so there's a 1/4" gap between the two cabinet pieces. No big deal, but I had not painted the sides of the cabinets that I felt would be adjacent to each other and not showing. So, I tried spraying the unpainted gap -- not a good idea. Not sure why, but the paint bubbled up where the overspray hit the existing paint; maybe the temperature was too low. . . .
When the doors were installed, I noticed that the ones on the left opened AWAY from the center of the bench -- that is, the door is in the way if you're working at the bench. Again, no big deal, but if I had designed from scratch, I would have opened doors differently!
The way they were installed in the house that we demolished, it made sense. Here are the two cabinets on either side of the sink before removal. Are they recognizable?!
From a distance, they look pretty good in their new home.
Last edited:
MW: Don't think you got carried away at all. Looks GREAT.I think I'm finished with the floor trim. Got the loft walls, bath, and even the little broom closet fixed up. I think I got carried away with some of the smaller pieces!
Those tiny bits and pieces are a pain to cut and install, but that is why they call it FINISH carpentry. It finishes up all those nasty little cracks... and looks oh so sweet when it is done!
Nice Job, keep at it.
John