Above 1200 Sq/FT Bailey's Barn Build

[mwbailey]

As a matter of fact, I do have a few more photos, NUTTSGT! The workshop will have three interior doors, not counting a closet that may be too small to build one like the others -- mechanical room door (complete), bathroom (complete), and top of stairs (not started).

I used 1X10" shiplap "full cut". These boards are what are used as the inside walls for the barn and have a rough side and a planed side. For the frame and Z, I ripped the 1X10 into a full 4" wide board (taking off the "lap" in the process). I then put an appropriate number of 1X10's in a square "jig" with the planed side down. I used 1 3/4" deck screws to attach the rectangular frame from the ripped 4" boards after measuring the diagonals to ensure the frame is close to square. The frame is centered horizontally (as the door will stand) on the 1X10's so there is likely to be a few inches on each side to remove later. I also don't put the top (or bottom, depending on your orientation) 4" board at the end of the 1X10's, but place it a couple of inches inside. When screwing the frame onto the 1X10's, I use two pipe clamps to pull the 1X10's together. Here are the two doors with the frames on them:




After the frame and Z (for the bathroom door, it's really an "S" since it will be hinged on the other side) are attached, I used a Skil saw to cut the 1X10's by going around the exterior edges of the frame.

For the bathroom door, one of the boards was a bit warped -- should have noticed before I made it! So, I Gorilla-glued it while pressing it together:

The roofers were still waiting for it to stop raining (it didn't) and helped me clamp it up!

Don't know if this is what you wanted -- let me know if it isn't. The doors are VERY heavy; I plan to use heavy-duty hinges with false spear-shaped straps to match the door that came with the barn "kit".

 

[mwbailey]

Well, I stopped by the garage several times yesterday and missed all the action. I told my wife that they thought they would deliver the shower, but I hadn't seen it -- we were there after dinner. She had walked upstairs and said, "What is this?" OK, so the shower WAS there -- and most of the rough-in plumbing:

You can see the edge of the shower stall. We'll "box in" the drain pipe, water pipes, and electrical wiring behind the water closet.

Then we walked down to the house (under construction; foundation so far). On the way back it became obvious that the roofers had been there and completed the last few rows of shingles following the placement of a few insulation panels that were "back-ordered". I had missed them, too!


County inspector came by today to check rough wiring and plumbing (plus a few other things). Maybe we'll start putting in some fixtures, now. Can you tell where the breaker panel will be?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is the door frame a double thick (front & back) 1x in the first picture or is that the jig you made?

 

[mwbailey]

It is only 2 " thick -- 1" of ship lap and 1" of 1 x 4. Dave at sand creek post and beam suggested to add another 1 x on the other side t o sandwich the ship lap. The door in the kit had angle iron on top and bottom to keep the door straight!! I may be sorry in the future, but I took the easy way. . . .

 

[mwbailey]

Some more rough wiring and plumbing completed yesterday.

Rough wiring for leanto:


"Plumbing" for the split HVAC in loft:


The wife and I have been looking at cabinets and appliances for the kitchenette. Gee, there are lots of decisions and choices. . . .

 

[mwbailey]

The building crew was back today for the first time in over a week. Rough plumbing and wiring was being done. They put in the loft window, some trim here and there, insulation around windows, etc.


I also picked up a workbench from our school district's Applied Technology Center. Check it out!


There's a bit of a story that goes with the bench, if you'll indulge me a bit. I helped a high school Robotics Team for 10 years and during that time we recruited Mr. Morris from the local pulp and paper mill. He would not allow himself to be called a machinist, but I think he used the term "Master Millwright". In any case he could make/fix ANYthing, and he was known to claim he could "fix everything from the crack of dawn to a broken heart." No doubt, that's been around a while, but the students ate it up. He got along with them very well without getting in their way. Compared to some of the engineers we had mentoring the team, Mr. Morris was a star!

At one point, Mr. Morris got fed up with the flimsy workbenches we had made of 2X4's and "reclaimed" tables. So, he made three workbenches that could stand the test of time. Two were 6' long and one was 4'. That made them convenient for trailering and for setting up in the usual 10X10' pit area at the Robotics Competitions. They had stainless steel tops and casters with brakes. The students loaded tools and supplies on the tops and the shelfs underneath and rolled workbench, tools, supplies and all onto and off of the trailer when we headed for the competitions. Since we had students on the team from all three high schools in the district, we had to be selective in our choice of color. The Applied Technology Center's paint shop mixed us up a custom blue paint for the benches. There were few if any workbenches that compared with ours at the competitions -- not the fanciest but certainly the most functional and sturdiest.

I'm sorry to say that Mr. Morris passed away several years back. We really missed him, and I'm delighted to have one of his benches in my workshop to help remember him. Great guy. . . .

 

[NUTTSGT]

It is only 2 " thick -- 1" of ship lap and 1" of 1 x 4. Dave at sand creek post and beam suggested to add another 1 x on the other side t o sandwich the ship lap. The door in the kit had angle iron on top and bottom to keep the door straight!! I may be sorry in the future, but I took the easy way. . . .

Thank you for the info.

. . . and an awesome story for the bench.

 

[mwbailey]

"Finish work" continues. I had been asked how we were going to "hide" the wiring since we're not using conduit (the wife wasn't too fond of exposed ductwork, conduit, etc.). Today the crew covered the wiring on the bottom floor.

The Sand Creek kit came with material for a half loft -- probably intended to be a HAYloft! Anyway, since we're using the upstairs for an apartment of sorts, the loft worn't be open to the rest of the garage and the railing that came with the kit won't be used. We have many 2X2's that are not needed and we had a good bit of 1X10 left over. So, the 2X2's were used to block out the 1X10's that were ripped to 5". Since the electrical boxes were installed sideways, the [now] 1X5's will cover them. The two long walls look like this:


There are still some wires "upstairs" for the overhead lighting that need concealing. I'm leaning toward cutting a 1X1 notch down the 2X2 rail instead of using the 2X2 and 1X5 as we did downstairs. The only problem is that the electrician first put the electrical boxes for the gooseneck lamps against the wall. The superintendent asked him to block them out so we COULD use the 1X board. Now I'd like to get the boxes back against the wall!! I don't know if I'll make many friends with that suggestion. . . .

 

[mwbailey]

Well, I mentioned the "easier" way to conceal the wires for the gooseneck lights (see previous post) on the "2nd floor" and the electrician immediately removed the blocks behind the light boxes. The 2X2's seem to do pretty well in covering the wiring -- there's even a wire for 220V going out to the square box for the (future) lift. See what you think.


Then I went to a local art festival with my artsy-crafty wife. Look what I found there! Seems to fit in with a garage decor, huh? The problem is, the design was made to hang vertically, but I prefer horizontal as shown below. The artist's assistant suggested duct tape to solve the problem; that fits the decor, also, I guess.

 

[HOTFR8]

Now that is a novel idea. I had to make it bigger to see it but what a great piece of art to add to a garage.

 

[mwbailey]

Hey HOTFR8, from your website and 'rods, it looks like you're into art, "too"!

The stained glass artist also had a medical doctor's stethoscope, a flattened bottle, and other stuff. One of the neat ones was a row of the miniature liquor bottles (like airlines use) in a rather large stained glass piece. That would have looked good over a small bar with REAL bottles lined up below it.

It would not have "fit" in my workshop, however. . . so I got the oil can.

 

[HOTFR8]

I have posted some of my own art work here on topics on the GJ. Mostly welded items from scrap. That stained glass item is very different so I hope you have a good place for it.

 

[mwbailey]

Forgot to take my camera to the workshop today so had to use cellphone. We used shiplap like on the walls and T&G flooring from the loft to "hide" the plumbing from upstairs. Here's before and after (the after is from phone, sorry about resolution -- edited to improve photo!):


I've also recently finished making the three doors needed for the interior of the barn -- to mechanical room doorstairs, to bath upstairs, and lastly at the top of the stairs. This is the stairway door:


We're about to run out of materials (shiplap) so I was scrounging around for something workable. The doors are built from the other side (with bracing) and when I flipped it over to the "smooth" side I noticed that one of the builders had been using a board for scrap paper; some cut lengths were penciled on it, "40 1/8", etc. I sanded most of it off but it may take some more work. . . .

These doors ARE heavy as NUTTSGT suggested on his thread. But it keeps with the "ambiance", I guess.

HOTFR8, I might use the oil can stained glass artwork over the sink in the loft. I don't have too many windows up there, so this might be a good substitute!!

 

[HOTFR8]

Forgot to take my camera to the workshop today so had to use cellphone.

What ! Most of the photos I post on the forum have been taken with a phone.

HOTFR8, I might use the oil can stained glass artwork over the sink in the loft. I don't have too many windows up there, so this might be a good substitute!!

Now that sounds like a good place for it. I hope you take a photo (with the phone ) and post it here.

 

[mwbailey]

Worked some on a "wellhouse" for the barn today. Enough material left from the workshop kit to get most of the wellhouse built, I hope. When I asked if they had any ideas, Sand Creek sent plans for a small building -- 6X10 approximately -- that was used at the Wayne County Fair (Sand Creek is in Wayne, Nebraska!). I revised somewhat to use 4X4's instead of 6X6's and to cut down overall size. Wellhouse will be 6'X6'.

I started with basically a square, skid foundation of doubled 2X6's, pressure treated -- and not supplied by Sand Creek. They will sit on the gravel pulled up from a well that was supposed to be 200' but ended up at 380'. Should be plenty stable.

The plans look something like this, now:


Left over, full dimension, rough cut 4X4's (by the way, HOTFR8, this is a cellphone photo):


Not set up for full shop use, so miter saw on the floor was my "mule" -- Grandmother used to say, "If you can't ride a horse, ride a mule." Gee, my back is hurting. But I was pleased that my saw would handle the 4X4's.


After cutting the pieces for the two "bents", I countersunk and drilled holes for the 45 degree supports. These are "dimensional" lumber that was actually used to load/separate the shipments of barn materials, so they are 3 1/2 X 3 1/2", 24" long. So, in the photo, the 24" angle supports, the four corner posts, two longer rafters for roof, two horizontal tie beams, two rafter extensions for the cantilevered "porch" roof, two 45 degree angle supports for porch roof, two short rafters for porch side roof, and two horizontal supports for porch roof.


My intent is to use dimensional 2X4's for horizontal girts and for roof purlins, spaced at 24". Exterior will be leftover boards (1X10's, rough cut that I have plenty of) and battens (1X3's, rought cut that I may be short of -- rip 1X10's?!). Roof will be OSB and shingles to match barn.

Not on the plans but in the planning is a short (maybe 5'6") door on the porch side.

Now, two things that I haven't worked out are:
1. Insulation. Lots of 4" SIP-type sheets in various shapes left over as well as 6". Would like to piece some of that together for the sides and roof, respectively. . . .
2. Removable or hinged roof for access to well, maybe the "non-porch" side.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Will the drain work be left exposed ?

I wonder what that stuff would look like if you painted it with some Rustoleum Hammered paint, would it pass for cast iron ?

 

[mwbailey]

Hmm, if you're asking about post #93, the PVC pipes HAVE been "concealed". The picture beside the one with the white PVC showing is of the same corner, just taken from further back in the garage. The same material used for the interior walls was used to conceal the drainpipe, along with flooring from the loft for the bottom of the box. I'll take a better photo today to show. . . .

 

[Omphaloskeptic]

In regard to future pump access in your shed, I would opt to change the roof to a flat sloped style. The entire roof would be hinged at the wall over the doorway. The side supports of the porch section of the roof would act as the lever arms to pivot downward and align with locking brackets fastened down low on the door wall of the shed. The diagonal porch roof supports could be unbolted from the upper wall brackets, pivoted up and out, and a 'locking bolt' could be added through the roof rafter to make the support an addition to lengthen the lever arm. The roof could be held in the 'closed position' by a couple of thru-bolts fastening the rafter to a corresponding bracket attached to the top of the wall opposite the door wall. The 'porch' section would have a chevron shaped cutout to allow access through the inward opening door whenever the roof is up in its' 'maintenance position'. A simple 'Yankee Gutter' chevron shaped piece of flashing would divert rainwater to the sides and keep the doorway dry. My verbal description is probably 'clear as mud', but in my minds eye, it would meet your maintenance needs. lol

 

[mwbailey]

NUTTSGT, here's a better view of the "before and after" of the plumbing and drains. I had hoped most of the pipes would be in the mechanical room (on the other side of the wall and out of sight), but it didn't work out. I think this camoflage is pretty good!


I started fastening a bent together for the wellhouse. I'm a little hesitant to put the 6 to 8 inch screws in place without drilling a pilot hole. Some of the placements are pretty close to the edge and might split. I didn't have a long enough drill bit for all the joints. The rafters are only joined at the peak for the moment; joining the rafters to the tie beam and posts will required a longer screw. So off to Home Depot I went after doing all that I could. Maybe more progress tomorrow. The 2X4's at top and bottom are just nailed in place to help ensure structure is square, or nearly so. . . .


I'll have to admit, Omph, that I didn't follow your full description for pump access, but you did get me thinking about which way the roof should hinge should I take that approach (hinged instead of removable roof). I was envisioning a hinge at the peak allowing one side to open, fold over on the other half. Why not hinge against the wall, still with half of the roof mobile?! I think a 3X6' opening should be big enough to work with if the wellhouse is located carefully in relationship to the pump, itself. I'm hoping that access from a well-drilling rig, or similar, would not be a frequent occurrence!! -- in which case removing and replacing a few shingles as needed along the ridge should not be a major issue. [On second thought, the bottom end of the rafter would get in the way of this approach, but I still think there's a possibility here.]

 

[mwbailey]

Finished first bent for wellhouse and laid out second with some assembly completed -- then lunch time. Hope to get back out this afternoon or tomorrow. . . .

I decided to attach all four 2X4 girts to help maintain "square" of the bent. Found a VERY long 3/16" bit at Home Depot that I used to drill pilot holes for 8" long screws to hold the rafters to the tie beam AND vertical posts. On second bent I found I was not drilling very staight and came out on the inside of one of the posts. Oh well, there should be enough "grip" with the remaining fasteners.

Wow, this is a heavy structure -- but not nearly as heavy as the workshop bents! I'll need a few hands to help move to the pump.

First bent almost vertical.

Second (and final) bent, getting started.

 

[mwbailey]

Getting ready for a little more "landscaping" to get the water to flow AWAY from the workshop. CAT operator should be here tomorrow. A lot of lumber here and there so I tried to consolidate somewhat today. Here is a before picture:
Material in foreground is waiting to go on barn; scrap pile in rear of picture needed to be "relocated" to do some grading. Note the small pond at center stage! [This picture was taken a few weeks ago.]
Here is after shot [today]:
Not quite the same view, but you can locate the largest pine at rear left in both photos for reference. Building material is on workshop and scrap pile has been culled for useable material.
Here is a new view of workshop:
The wife thinks we need something at the gable; she suggested "See Rock City"!! I prefer maybe a large Oldsmobile sign. Now I'm trying to determine how to access the leanto that will be used for boat and car trailer storage. Should I install cement steps or build stairs from treated lumber?

 

[Vernmotor]

I vote cement steps...I think they would last a long time. Very nice place ! I really like it.

 

[mwbailey]

Vernmotor, I think I'm with you on the cement steps -- it's just that I've been afraid to check the cost!!

Progress today on cleaning up the yard around the workshop and doing some "landscaping". During first site prep, we pushed some dirt on top of the septic drainfield-to-be. So, we needed to clear that off; septic system scheduled for installation next week. Also, needed to level the ground under leanto so water didn't stand forever next to the workshop. Since we have a new drive, the old one needed to be covered back up to grade (AND we needed somewhere to put the dirt from drainfield clean-up). Finally, we'll need to lower the drive into the rear of the workshop area to ensure water flows AWAY from the shop and the trailer can be backed into the leanto without bottoming out. Well, a second finally is to smooth the steep hill in front of the shop.

Jose and I spent most of the morning moving lumber out of the way for Lex to move some dirt. Jose just about wore me out! Lex ran out of diesel TWICE. . . .

Here are some pix:
Leanto before; note mudpuddle near front at side of workshop
Leanto after; sure hope trailer will fit, angle braces might get in the way

Old drive
Old drive with fill to grade, or a little higher!
Old drive nearer road with fill to grade

drainfield before (note white twine; everything to left of twine is in drainfield-to-be)

during dirt moving; will have to finish Sat or Mon

 

[NUTTSGT]

I see the PVC drains were covered up, look good, nice job.

 

[bgarrett]

Great building! How is the 4" insulation attached to the shiplap on the outer walls and how is board and batten attached to the insulation?

 

[mwbailey]

NUTTSGT, Yep, trying to hide as much of the "utility runs" as we can, so we got the plumbing boxed in. Thanks.

BGARRETT, The wall and roof insulation are a little like an SIP (Structural Insulated Panel). A SIP will have something like 1/2" OSB/styrofoam/1/2" OSB. The insulation we installed is missing one of the OSB layers. The panel (a 4X8' sheet) was screwed through the 1X10" shiplap to the girts with 6" wood screws and the boards were nailed (galvanized ring shank) to the OSB. Frankly, the crew chief was not too happy with this approach; he felt nailing a full dimension 1X10 and the 1X3 battens was a little much to ask for 1/2" OSB. Hope it holds up! Here's sketch of insulation system.

On the other hand, several folks have suggested that the wall and roof thickness were such that I could heat the workshop with a candle. That might be the case if it were not for the two, large and leaky sliding barn doors!

 

[bgarrett]

Thank you for the reply. You must have a fortune invested in 6" screws. Let us know in 20 years if this stuff slides down the wall. Seems like it would

 

[mwbailey]

bgarret, Yep, lots of 4" (for angle braces), 6" (for wall insulation), and 8" (two types, one for roof insulation and one for tie beams) wood screws in this thing. Fortunately, I still have a bucket or so left over for the wellhouse and maybe a really sturdy workbench or two. This is my first year on Medicare, so in 20 years I probably won'tcare what's happening with the insulation! But, what do you suspect will "slide down the wall"?!

Not only is there a bucket of screws left over, but a sizable stack of wood, as well. This photo doesn't quite do it justice, but I was warned that I might want to go into the lumber business before it was all over:


Here's a picture of both bents for the wellhouse, leaned up against the wall. Hmm, seems that one of them may not be exactly square. . . . Oh, and some of the lumber pile will be used to cover the wellhouse. I think there will still be a passel of it left.

 

[mwbailey]

Finished up the grading today. It looks pretty good and my Expedition can get to the leanto easily; just hope I can get the car hauler in there without hitting too many posts.


Obtained 100 lb of winter rye and 15 bales of straw so I could "stabilize" the grading work. Only made it through 4 bales today before my shoulders gave out.



Apparently the insulation guys showed up yesterday while I was running errands and the drywall guys were in today. They didn't know if the insulation had been inspected or even needed to be! I feel for them since I'm sure these little jobs are significant pains. . . .

 

[kert]

Apparently the insulation guys showed up yesterday while I was running errands and the drywall guys were in today. They didn't know if the insulation had been inspected or even needed to be! I feel for them since I'm sure these little jobs are significant pains. . . .

Hard to believe that anything on this build could be called a "little job." Looking Good!

 

[hpw]

has much money that was spent on insulation on the rest of your build, I'm surprised to see what looks to be fiberglass in that wall.

But anyway, Kudos to a very nice barn

 

[mwbailey]

Hpw, Kert,
Thanks!
The drywall job is pretty small compared to the wood "siding"!!
Yep, used a little fiberglass as much for sound as for temperature.

 

[mwbailey]

Got started on the "engineered" septic system today -- ground would not "perc", so now we have added expense of essentially our own water treatement plant. It has settling "basin", aeration tank, and trickle watering!


Also trimmed the bathroom door to allow for 1" jambs. I didn't want to take 2" off of one side of the frame, so I removed several of the frame pieces, placed the right hand frame 2" closer to left, and adjusted other pieces appropriately. Finally, I ripped along the outer edge of the repositioned right hand vertical frame piece and, Voila', smaller door.


Cleaned the center of the workshop of wood (it's all now on one side or the other!). At least I got an inkling of the space that will be available.

 

[mwbailey]

Grammar school joke: If your nose runs and your feet smell, you're built upside down.

Why do I think of that? If you finish site grading and spread seed and straw THEN the septic guy tears up one side of your yard and the well guy is coming tomorrow to tear up the other side, is your workshop being built backwards? If your septic system needs a tank filled with water before it rains (and the whole things floats to the top), the connection is being made from well to workshop tomorrow, but you have no electricity to run the well pump, is your workshop being built backwards? If the insulation needs inspection but the drywall guys show up, is your workshop being built backwards?

Oh well, it will all work out in the end. . . . I guess progress is progress. The straw looks nice on this side, TODAY.


Four rows of septic system drain "pipe" are placed; maybe four more tomorrow to complete the job.

 

[mwbailey]

OK, so anyone following this thread is probably bored to tears by now, but keeping up with my progress is helping me to feel better about the effort!

Today's activities included destroying grass seed and straw (as predicted in last post) and putting in lines (electrical and water) from pump to garage. Since workshop is not "hot", yet, we had to run a temporary to the utility's "construction box". Here are two shots -- if you look closely at the hose picture, you'll see a little water on the ground!!


Showed the well drilling guys my start on a wellhouse. They seemed satisfied that a 6X6' shed with 5'6" door would be large enough to pull out the well, if needed. That solves my hinged roof issue, thank goodness! They even suggested putting in a box for a light off the same wire as the pump. It all sounded good to me.

Finished installing drywall and started taping:

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm guessing that's the bathroom ? It's not very big is it ?

 

[Vernmotor]

I am here still reading and keeping a eye on ya !

 

[hpw]

I am here still reading and keeping a eye on ya !

yep, me two

What are you going to use for the exterior to protect all that wood?

 

[mwbailey]

NUTTSGT, Ha! It's not very big, it's the closet. Here's a shot into the bath. . .
Still not very big, but full function: sink, toilet, and shower. I thought this would be cheap until I priced the glass door for a corner shower -- $592!! I think I'll find a shower curtain with "Olds 442" on it. . . .

Glad to hear from Vernmotor and hpw. I was thinking of letting the exterior age a bit (kids don't do this now, but when I got a new pair of "tennis shoes", as they were called years ago, the first thing I did was find a mud puddle to jump in so they weren't so bright white -- today, new basketball shoes are a sign of status), so it didn't look so NEW. I may have found out that the county codes REQUIRE a stain/sealer to get a certificate of occupancy!?!? Not really a big deal since my plans were to seal the exterior at some point. Sand Creek Post and Beam recommend Sikkens products for that. No decision, yet, but I'll probably go with a clear sealer/stain.

 

[mwbailey]

Just about finished up on the septic system today. Looks like there's a pretty good drop from workshop to tank. Sal (the engineered systems guy) decided to increase the PVC from 3" to 4" about halfway down just to make sure.


I started the wellhouse "footings" today. Dug a trench around the wellhead and tried to level things up. Put down a couple of inches of gravel -- so, why did I work so hard to level the trench? Started adding cinder blocks and found one corner was a little high. Gave up for today and will try to work it out tomorrow. I'm wondering if I won't get MC Escher's Ascending and Descending stairs. How do you start at one corner, level each side as you go, and have it work out at the final corner?! Maybe I shouldn't worry too much; it's just a wellhouse. . . .