Baldor 623E

[dwp99]

I recently was offered a Baldor 623E bench grinder. It is a basket case and was told it was working before the previous owner took it apart. Well I took it and cleaned it up a bit but when it comes to the wiring, this is where I could use some help.


There is also a capacitor with the grinder.

There are no marking on the top

Any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance.

 

[torqueman2002]

This previous thread has a wiring diagram, that may help.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/help-with-baldor-grinder-capacitor.375988/

 

[torqueman2002]

I've had good luck contacting Baldor when rebuilding, repairing, and replacing missing parts. If you haven't already, it's worth a try.

From looking through my small 'library' of Baldor pdf files, pictures, etc ...; I believe these fractional HP models do not use start caps, but use run caps, like yours - (10, uf @ 370VAC).

I've been studying the wiring diagram and your picture of the wires, looks like there should be 2 more wires or piggy-back connectors to join the switch, motor, and cap.

I think I'd ask for help from the very well informed members at OWWM --> http://owwm.org/

Good luck, let us know how you make out.

 

[torqueman2002]

OK, back again - this time with pictures that I think can help. They are from a 1/2-HP 7307D 115V/230V Baldor. It has a run capacitor and lighted eye shields, but should be very similar to yours.



Wiring, note that the 2 capacitor wires lead into the opening for the windings. Power cord is the center black sheathed wire, eye shield lamps black sheathed wires to left and right.


Power (black) from switch to white & yellow wires going to windings, and black wires to eye shield lamps.


Neutral (white) from switch to orange & blue wires going to windings, and white wires to eye shield lamps.


Power switch detail. Power cord at top of picture. Yellow w/ green wire is case ground of the power cord.


Run capacitor detail.


I trust this helps.

 

[dwp99]

This previous thread has a wiring diagram, that may help.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/help-with-baldor-grinder-capacitor.375988/

Thanks Torqueman2002, mine is strictly 115 volt so the wiring diagram has a few more wires than mine.

I use an ohm meter and ohmed out the wires on mine. I determined that one winding is to 2 black wires and the other winding is the 2 gray wires. There are 2.4 ohms between the black wires and 10.9 ohms between the gray.

 

[dwp99]

I've had good luck contacting Baldor when rebuilding, repairing, and replacing missing parts. If you haven't already, it's worth a try.

From looking through my small 'library' of Baldor pdf files, pictures, etc ...; I believe these fractional HP models do not use start caps, but use run caps, like yours - (10, uf @ 370VAC).

I've been studying the wiring diagram and your picture of the wires, looks like there should be 2 more wires or piggy-back connectors to join the switch, motor, and cap.

I think I'd ask for help from the very well informed members at OWWM --> http://owwm.org/

Good luck, let us know how you make out.

Thanks again Torqueman2002
I'll give Baldor a try and see what they say.

OK, back again - this time with pictures that I think can help. They are from a 1/2-HP 7307D 115V/230V Baldor. It has a run capacitor and lighted eye shields, but should be very similar to yours.



Wiring, note that the 2 capacitor wires lead into the opening for the windings. Power cord is the center black sheathed wire, eye shield lamps black sheathed wires to left and right.


Power (black) from switch to white & yellow wires going to windings, and black wires to eye shield lamps.


Neutral (white) from switch to orange & blue wires going to windings, and white wires to eye shield lamps.


Power switch detail. Power cord at top of picture. Yellow w/ green wire is case ground of the power cord.


Run capacitor detail.


I trust this helps.

The switch that came with mine is only a single pole single throw.
I'm assuming that since this one pictured above has a double pole single throw switch that it's wired for 220V.
Alsos that the additional wired are for 110/220volt.
Thanks again Torqueman 2002.

 

[torqueman2002]

OK, another update - I've searched for wiring diagrams for your grinder w/o luck.

I'm posting a link to this thread and asking for help at OWWM's website.

When I finish, I'll put the link here. --> https://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=228818

 

[torqueman2002]

Thanks Torqueman2002, mine is strictly 115 volt so the wiring diagram has a few more wires than mine.

I use an ohm meter and ohmed out the wires on mine. I determined that one winding is to 2 black wires and the other winding is the 2 gray wires. There are 2.4 ohms between the black wires and 10.9 ohms between the gray.

Thanks again Torqueman2002
I'll give Baldor a try and see what they say.

The switch that came with mine is only a single pole single throw.
I'm assuming that since this one pictured above has a double pole single throw switch that it's wired for 220V.
Alsos that the additional wired are for 110/220volt.
Thanks again Torqueman 2002.

That's good information. I'll ruminate on it and see if I can figure it out and pass it on to OWWM.
Is there continuity and/or resistance between any of the Black and Gray wires

Yes, the double pole single throw switches are for the 100V/220V models; it allows them to be wired for either voltage (LOW or HIGH).

Can you post pics of the switch, label plate, wires of the windings?
Also, is there a centrifugal switch in one of the end bells? This is used in some grinders to activate/de-activate a start-up winding.

 

[torqueman2002]

Hi Doug, there's a reply, on OWWM, with wiring diagrams for the earlier versions of the Baldor 623E bench grinder. These maybe for your model version.

Also, I posted some generic motor wiring diagrams showing 2 windings and a run capacitor. These give a general overview of how motors/grinders can be wired.

 

[dwp99]

That's good information. I'll ruminate on it and see if I can figure it out and pass it on to OWWM.
Is there continuity and/or resistance between any of the Black and Gray wires

Yes, the double pole single throw switches are for the 100V/220V models; it allows them to be wired for either voltage (LOW or HIGH).

Can you post pics of the switch, label plate, wires of the windings?
Also, is there a centrifugal switch in one of the end bells? This is used in some grinders to activate/de-activate a start-up winding.

Hi Torqueman2002, Thanks for all your help.

One black wire is connected to one gray wire. When I ohm it out from the other gray to the black the resistance is 13.2 ohms.

I understand if hooked to 220 volts you need to break both legs to turn the grinder off, or better yet to kill all power to the windings.

Sure My switch plate has on / Off On one side (facing up) and Slow Off Fast on the other side (facing down) I'm assuming that Baldor used the switch guard on multiple grinder/ buffers.

the switch is a single pole double throw On/On no center off. I don't believe it's original.

Hi Doug, there's a reply, on OWWM, with wiring diagrams for the earlier versions of the Baldor 623E bench grinder. These maybe for your model version.

Also, I posted some generic motor wiring diagrams showing 2 windings and a run capacitor. These give a general overview of how motors/grinders can be wired.

I just signed up with OWWM and I'm waiting on the approval email. When I get it I'll have a look. Thanks again.

 

[torqueman2002]

Hi Doug,

I think you are right, they must have used the same part for 1-speed and 2-speed grinders. I think the 2-speed Baldor I have uses a label and the guard is cast into the base. I'll have to check.

Your switch is a SPDT or On/Off/(On).

When power is attached to the middle terminal, IIRC, the power will be sent to one of the 2 outside terminals; if one outside terminal is not connected, the switch is an On/Off switch. You can check this with a multi-meter, set on Ohms/resistance.

I put together a spreadsheet with your resistance values for the windings and assigned them temporary terminal 'IDs'.



Here are the generic schematics I posted on OWWM.




Here's a Baldor wiring diagram for a 0.33 HP model 623E, thanks to Tom on OWWM.


While the colors do not match your grinder, the diagram indicates they are optional.

Do your wires have any numbers? That will help a lot. If not, maybe we can find out what the resistance values are for the A Phase and B Phase windings are and go from there.

 

[dwp99]

Hi Doug,

I think you are right, they must have used the same part for 1-speed and 2-speed grinders. I think the 2-speed Baldor I have uses a label and the guard is cast into the base. I'll have to check.

Your switch is a SPDT or On/Off/(On).

When power is attached to the middle terminal, IIRC, the power will be sent to one of the 2 outside terminals; if one outside terminal is not connected, the switch is an On/Off switch. You can check this with a multi-meter, set on Ohms/resistance.

I put together a spreadsheet with your resistance values for the windings and assigned them temporary terminal 'IDs'.



Here are the generic schematics I posted on OWWM.




Here's a Baldor wiring diagram for a 0.33 HP model 623E, thanks to Tom on OWWM.


While the colors do not match your grinder, the diagram indicates they are optional.

Do your wires have any numbers? That will help a lot. If not, maybe we can find out what the resistance values are for the A Phase and B Phase windings are and go from there.

Hi Torqueman2002
Thanks you so much for all the research you have done these wiring diagrams will help me get this grinder back up and running.

My switch has no center off so it's ON/ON and yes if either of the outside terminals are left open, it can be used as an ON/OFF switch.

Thanks for the spread sheet and wiring diagrams. Everything is good to go now. I've done some research and found that the higher resistance winding is the start windings so in my case it will be the gray wires. The lower resistance (black wires) is the run windings.

In the Baldor diagram above, Phase A would be the start windings and Phase B would be the run windings with the capacitor.

There is no numbers on the wiring from Baldor. Just Beldon Wire numbers saying 105c Beldon-J CSA , CL1053.

I'll have to get on OWWM and thank Tom.
Again thanks Torqueman2002 for all your help.

 

[torqueman2002]

Hi Torqueman2002
Thanks you so much for all the research you have done these wiring diagrams will help me get this grinder back up and running.

My switch has no center off so it's ON/ON and yes if either of the outside terminals are left open, it can be used as an ON/OFF switch.

Thanks for the spread sheet and wiring diagrams. Everything is good to go now. I've done some research and found that the higher resistance winding is the start windings so in my case it will be the gray wires. The lower resistance (black wires) is the run windings.

In the Baldor diagram above, Phase A would be the start windings and Phase B would be the run windings with the capacitor.

There is no numbers on the wiring from Baldor. Just Beldon Wire numbers saying 105c Beldon-J CSA , CL1053.

I'll have to get on OWWM and thank Tom.
Again thanks Torqueman2002 for all your help.

Hi Doug,

Glad to be able to help out, and learn something about these fine machines.

They are well built, parts are available, and this one should serve you well for a good long time. Don't let the 1/3 HP rating fool you, these are the better of much higher rated big box store grinders. I think of them as the Mercedes Benz trucks of the grinders.