davidlee
Well-known member
I was given a Craftsman band saw which I never use. Can it be converted to a metal cutting saw by changing the blade or do they run at different speeds?
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Bandsaw question
- Thread starter davidlee
- Start date
csp
Well-known member
Metal bandsaws run at slower speeds than wood ones do.
There are webpages documenting how people have slowed them down.
There are webpages documenting how people have slowed them down.
K13
Well-known member
Different speeds metal cutting saws run way slower. Guys do convert them by setting up pully speed reduction configurations.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
Wood cutting band saws are way too fast for cutting metals, although I've used my 14" wood cutting band saw to cut aluminum but is still hard on the blade. You might try adapting the proper size pulleys for metal or find a suitable two speed motor that will work for your needs.
Falcon67
Well-known member
My metal saw runs around 150 FPS. Wood runs around 3000. Youd have to really slow it down.
strength_and_power
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2015
- Messages
- 1,407
You may be able to slow the speed down with a VFD
zoomzoomjeff
Well-known member
What type of metal? If it's paper thin sheeting like roof sheeting or something, and the saw was given to you, and you don't have long-term plans for it, then sure. Find a very fine tooth blade and go at it. Just don't expect long blade life. But for something thicker, you're going to want to slow the blade way down and use an appropriate toothed blade, with the closest to optimal speed for that material you're cutting.
magrahamkp08
Well-known member
You may be able to slow the speed down with a VFD
I too have wondered about this. I too have wood bandsaw, that i would like to convert to a metal bandsaw. I have a VFD, but its currently hooked ot my lathe. If there ever comes a time where i need the metal bandsaw, ill wire into my VFD and report back.
matt_i
Well-known member
The basic conundrum is this: Wood 3000 sfm, steel, 100 sfm. So that's a 30:1 reduction in speed from the motor. The problem with a VFD is the motor would run roughly at 2Hz (instead of 60Hz normal) and while it would run it would have nearly zero torque. A single belt reduction won't work (1" dia pulley driving a 30" pulley is unsuitable). So it becomes a job to setup a ganged or multiplied reduction of something more reasonable like 5:1 x 6:1. There are a few more subtleties but that's the crux. A VFD will require a 3 phase motor, although most can run on single phase input power.
magrahamkp08
Well-known member
Glad the vfd got cleared up before I unwired my lathe
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
If you can find an old conveyor gearbox, they are often 30:1 ratio, and use a NEMA C face motor.
MBfreak
MEMBER EMERITUS
Hi.
I converted a good quality bandsaw from wood to metal, and got the correct blades. Used a two stage gear reducer. Looked like a success.
After a while the blade was hard to track. This was caused my metal chips having embedded themselves into the rubber coating on the wheels.( around 750 mm diameter.
Had to strip the rubber and have them rerubbered.
So, my saw was not suitable, now back to wood only.
Ola
I converted a good quality bandsaw from wood to metal, and got the correct blades. Used a two stage gear reducer. Looked like a success.
After a while the blade was hard to track. This was caused my metal chips having embedded themselves into the rubber coating on the wheels.( around 750 mm diameter.
Had to strip the rubber and have them rerubbered.
So, my saw was not suitable, now back to wood only.
Ola
You may be able to slow the speed down with a VFD
ONLY if the motor is 3 phase.
strength_and_power
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2015
- Messages
- 1,407
ONLY if the motor is 3 phase.
Good to know. I'm running my cold saw on a static converter now with plans to switch over to a VFD when I have a chance.
I too have wondered about this. I too have wood bandsaw, that i would like to convert to a metal bandsaw. I have a VFD, but its currently hooked ot my lathe. If there ever comes a time where i need the metal bandsaw, ill wire into my VFD and report back.
If the bandsaw has a single phase motor you won't be able to use a VFD. The motor will slow down and the centrifugal switch will close and stay closed blowing your start capacitor.
kf4zht
Well-known member
It's doable with some jack shafts and pulleys. Good thing is there is usually plenty of room under the saw to move the motor around
Also check the motor RPMs, lots of things come with 3450RPM motors, swapping to a 1725RPM motor gives you an instant reduction.
Also check the motor RPMs, lots of things come with 3450RPM motors, swapping to a 1725RPM motor gives you an instant reduction.
justanengineer
Well-known member
Converting a bandsaw from metal to wood really depends on what youre using it for. I'm pretty familiar with the limitations as I've helped a number of model and car club members with these "conversions." Benchtop saws really arent rigid enough for cutting bar stock, so forget about most anything thicker than steel plate. The guides and tires also generally **** and will cause major issues in thicker metals. I had a 14" Delta with the factory gearbox to do wood and metals and while better than nothing frankly it sucked compared to a decent industrial saw. It didnt properly support the blade well enough to keep the blade in the cut so it was constantly half cutting/half rubbing, wearing out blades and me. Yes, a 16-24" saw is another few hundred $$$ over a cheapie homeowner saw (~$500 vs ~$300 locally), but a lot of folks waste that much converting a saw and still end up with something that ***** IMHO.
Doug Arthurs
Well-known member
^^^^what he said been there done that. Found an industrial Doall instead.
nadogail
Well-known member
Short answer is yes, I occasionally saw aluminum on my Craftsman with no problem. I wipe the swarth off the tires when done.
Having said that, my Craftsman is not a DoAll, and will never replace one.
Having said that, my Craftsman is not a DoAll, and will never replace one.
Converting a bandsaw from metal to wood really depends on what youre using it for. I'm pretty familiar with the limitations as I've helped a number of model and car club members with these "conversions." Benchtop saws really arent rigid enough for cutting bar stock, so forget about most anything thicker than steel plate. The guides and tires also generally **** and will cause major issues in thicker metals. I had a 14" Delta with the factory gearbox to do wood and metals and while better than nothing frankly it sucked compared to a decent industrial saw. It didnt properly support the blade well enough to keep the blade in the cut so it was constantly half cutting/half rubbing, wearing out blades and me. Yes, a 16-24" saw is another few hundred $$$ over a cheapie homeowner saw (~$500 vs ~$300 locally), but a lot of folks waste that much converting a saw and still end up with something that ***** IMHO.
Comparing it to an industrial saw is about as apples to oranges as it can get. I have no troubles cutting 1/2" steel plate on mine with a 1/2" Starrett blade. There is no blade wandering, rubbing, or tracking issues to speak of. Long cuts in anything thicker than 1/2", I'm having it laser cut.
I paid $400 for my Delta. A decent DoAll will fetch $900-1500 for a smaller one.
Falcon67
Well-known member
ONLY if the motor is 3 phase.
And preferably inverter rated. My experience with my VFD says your pretty save at around 20% either side of 60 Hz. More than that and things get iffy on a chinese motor IMHO.
matt_i
Well-known member
Agreed. Get a DoAll or a Powermatic. Very few issues after that.