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Barnwood Table

jwith68

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
1,639
Location
EC Missouri
A couple of weeks ago I started a project that is kind of out of the norm for me. I'm liking the way its turning out, so I thought I'd show it off a bit.

Our son and a friend of his share an apartment in the St. Louis area while they go to school there. They just signed a lease on a new 3 bedroom apartment, and another friend is moving in with them. He tells me their new place will have a decent amount of room, and they need a dining table. He wants something rustic, and he's had his eye on an old door we took out of the interior of a barn when we did this barn overhaul several years ago.

So I got out the door, and looked through the stash of lumber and beams we saved when we took the loft structure out of that barn. I came up with a 5"x5" column, a 3"x5" beam, and a 2"x8" brace, all close-to-full-dimension roughsawn oak. The door and a couple boards that match it closely are pine. All this lumber is just over 90 years old, as the barn was built 1924-25. First order of the day was to powerwash the thick layer of dust (and even some very old dry manure) off it. It turned out looking great, without removing the patina.

The design is a combination of ideas from my wife, a good friend of ours, and myself. We thought a trestle table would work well with the door, which was roughly 32" x 78". Here is the door and a start on the trestle base, after powerwashing.



Here is the base with columns added. Should be beefy enough!



I wanted to do something unique for the actual trestle, incorporate metal, and keep with the rustic theme. So I went out and dug through my scrap metal pile, and came up with a few lengths of old steel "T" post, which usually wind up there when they rust enough at ground level that they break off when you try to pull them. Our last initial is "W", so I thought that might make a good trestle/truss design as well as a nice "monogram". With a little bit of cutting and welding, here is our trestle.



I thought about just taking off the scaly rust and clear coating it, but our son liked the idea of hammertone paint. I thought copper would look good with the rustic wood, so after wire brushing, a coat of rust converter, and two coats of Rustoleum copper hammertone, here is the base.



With the base more or less done, I started on the top. The door was in incredibly nice condition for a 90 year old original barn door, but it still needed a bit of work. I squared it up by trimming both ends and one side slightly. That also got rid of just a little bit of soft wood on what had been the bottom edge. I cut some 2.5" wide strips out of the matching pine boards to edge the door with, to make the table top look a little more "massive", like the base.



I left weathered edges on the top of the edge strip, and used leftover strips from the middle of the boards to straighten and flatten the door across each end. I just clamped a piece of steel tube across the face, with the door upside down, and screwed the strips on as backers at each end. This also made a more secure attachment for the edges at each end. The edges are put on with #4 finishing nails.



We will top the door with a glass top, so we decided to hold the edges "proud" of the door surface and capture the glass, instead of having the glass come all the way to the edge. I used a scrap of 1/4" (actually 5mm) luan as a gauge.



So after the top was finished yesterday, here is what it looked like.



A lot of this lumber was really rough, and would pretty easily give you splinters. So I did a bit of experimentation on smoothing it out without losing "the look". I settled on using the coarse Scotch-Brite scouring pads. They do a great job of smoothing out the splinters, but won't remove the saw marks, color, and character, so long as you don't get carried away. The base was already smoothed out, and I spent 15 minutes or so working on the newly completed top. This is how it looks now.





I still need to do some kind of a finish on it to smooth and protect it, but I want to keep and enrich the look it has now. I'm thinking I will use clear or may be light brown Briwax on it. If any of you have ever done a barnwood project like this, what did you do as a protective finish?
 
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406Rich

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Nov 4, 2014
Messages
289
Location
Elk Grove, Calif
Minwax sells a poly in the can, very fluid, both satin and gloss, I`ve used it (satin ) to retain the vintage look, and it will lock down the splintering worth a test on a piece of scrap.
 

RickP

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Joined
Jan 15, 2013
Messages
1,549
Location
Annapolis, MD
That looks like a great project -- nicely done! I've always liked the look of old barn wood, and I've got a bunch of it in my basement just waiting for a good use. Your table has inspired me to get started on something like it this winter.
 

stevenhs

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Joined
Jan 20, 2015
Messages
165
Location
Orange county, CA
Oil/Varnish blend

- Watco danish oil
-Minwax Antique Oil Finish

Both are basically the same thing or another finish you can use is oil based polyurethane.

minwax polyurethane or general finish Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat
 

KRB52

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Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
2,650
I thought the dust and dried manure were the patina! Seriously, it looks great. The columns are massive; should stand up to college kids.
 
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Farmall Cub

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Oct 17, 2015
Messages
89
Location
Greensburg, PA
Very nice table! I had the same thought last year.
I had an old workbench from my father in law that I repurposed and found that the base was an old Simplex cast iron machine stand.
I looked for some barnwood to make a top and found an old door.
I had to do a little more splinter control than you, I think. Some small finish nail, glue and clamps and I got most of the flyaway pieces tacked back in place.
A belt sander was needed to make it flat, I lost a little character but not nearly as much as I thought I would. Five coats of poly stain and it safe to move your hands around on (so far anyhow).
Wire wheeled the base and gave it a couple coats of flat black.
It is now my desk for my home office. The optical mouse was kinda spotty when it hit a gap or low spot so I went to Tandy Leather and picked up some thick belly leather for ten bucks. Cut out a shape I thought looked good and tanned it with shoe polish. I have a half dozen more to finish up to put on ebay sometime.
 

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jwith68

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Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
1,639
Location
EC Missouri
Thanks for all the kind comments, guys! Here it is in finished form, minus the glass top. If it doesn't really look any different than in the other photos, that's the point. I wound up just doing a good coat of paste wax on it. I tried several other finishes on test pieces, and could never get the desired effect. A satin poly darkened the pine way too much, and oil finishes darkened both the oak and pine a lot. There is more difference in person than the photos show. The wax richened the look of the pine, but had no real effect on the oak, other than to give it just a bit of sheen.







I'll post a couple of it with the glass top, but that may be a few weeks still. We won't move it to his new place until sometime in January, and I'm not sure I want the glass top laying around here until then. May just order it and pick it up when we move it.

Merry Christmas, all!
 
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jwith68

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
1,639
Location
EC Missouri
Very nice table! I had the same thought last year.
I had an old workbench from my father in law that I repurposed and found that the base was an old Simplex cast iron machine stand.
I looked for some barnwood to make a top and found an old door.
I had to do a little more splinter control than you, I think. Some small finish nail, glue and clamps and I got most of the flyaway pieces tacked back in place.
A belt sander was needed to make it flat, I lost a little character but not nearly as much as I thought I would. Five coats of poly stain and it safe to move your hands around on (so far anyhow).
Wire wheeled the base and gave it a couple coats of flat black.
It is now my desk for my home office. The optical mouse was kinda spotty when it hit a gap or low spot so I went to Tandy Leather and picked up some thick belly leather for ten bucks. Cut out a shape I thought looked good and tanned it with shoe polish. I have a half dozen more to finish up to put on ebay sometime.

Farmall Cub, that is a nice desk. I have a few more doors, most of which are in about the condition of what you started with. Nice user name, btw. I have one of those out in the machine shed, too. 1949 model with several implements, including a model 100 manure spreader.

Very nice! .. how did you attach the base pieces together?

The base is held together with #9 structural screws, mostly 3.5" long. I drilled clearance holes for the shanks, and even pilot holes if they were close to an end. That old oak is hard as a rock, but it will split in the right circumstances.
 

manwithtools

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Aug 24, 2015
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13,747
Location
Lebanon, TN
Very well done. I'm not so sure that I wouldn't add some carriage bolts through the uprights at the bases. Those college boys can tear up darn near anything. I'd hate to have someone sit on that table top and break it loose of the base.

In the past I've counterbored a 1" dia. hole to recess the carriage bolt head in, cut some plugs from a section of dowel to cover the bolt head and it looks like wooden peg construction. Purely a suggestion, it's a great design BTW.
 
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jwith68

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Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
1,639
Location
EC Missouri
Here's a few "finally finished" photo's of it. Moved it into his new place a couple weeks ago, and ordered a glass for it. Glass came in Tuesday, so here it is.







He's very happy with it, and I am happy with the final product. Might even convince me to take on a few more similar projects!
 
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