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Base boards for shop

coalminer16

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Apr 6, 2019
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36
Location
MN
I spray foamed the shop and thanks to this forum I was convinced to finish the walls to help protect the spray foam from sparks and uv light damage. I got a GREAT deal on some fire bloc osb board that has the same rating as sheet rock but much more durable and I am finishing the walls with that and white oil based primer. I would like to be able to weld, grind and possibly once in a while wash items in the shop. I have the fire bloc osb off the ground a fraction so it would sit in the water and draw it up since the small shop isn't sloped at all as it never had drains.

To the point what would be good for the base boards that wouldn't be wood so it doesn't rot and doesn't break the bank? I have a 30x40 and 60x72 shop I am doing this too. I don't want sparks from welding to role through the gap and slowly start a fire so i want to close the gap without having wood on the ground.

Picture of what I am doing 498b915d0cd31a7a6e55dd7f54d87912.jpg

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rustyjames

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Dec 28, 2008
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central nj
I used 3.5" drywall scraps and wrapped it with aluminum coil stock. Screwed the drywall and used a few dots of adhesive to hold the trim. For more moisture resistance you could use something else under the aluminum.
 

Fatboy148

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Feb 15, 2017
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999
Once you get your fire bloc osb installed and painted or better yet, painted and installed (Look into the manufacturer's specs to see if it's OK to do all six sides) , could you get some "inexpensive" wall or floor tile and and install that as your base and caulk the top edge and bottom joint where it meets the floor (you could even run it up the wall some to help protect the wall from splash in the area it may get wet)? IF.... you just wanted it just as base, you could rip the pieces so they could be any height would like.
 

cderalow

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Nov 13, 2011
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1,326
Location
Potomac, MD
get yourself a couple of rolls of 3" rubber cove base and use that. run glue on OSB, bead of caulk on floor and install.

works in millions of square feet of commercial warehouse space...

no reason it won't work on the personal level. plus a roll is like $100/120lf or less and it's easy as pie to install.
 
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coalminer16

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Apr 6, 2019
Messages
36
Location
MN
The rubber cove is what I was looking for in my head. Thank you

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Siegel1719

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Nov 12, 2014
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75
Location
Farmington Hills, MI
You could but PVC exterior trim. Would make a great baseboard and would never rot. Not the cheapest option however but shouldn't break the bank so to say.
 

paredown

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Jan 12, 2012
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544
Location
Pomona, NY
I used Trex boards--I may have run the bottom edge through the table saw to square them up. Same effect as PVC trim, but cheap. Used deck screws to fasten.

I liked this because any water/liquids spilled on the floor won't wick up.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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18,487
Location
visalia ca
I would,use,rubber cove, but order the 4” or 6” stuff to better protect if,you wash the floor

Bob
 

MTY

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Oct 10, 2017
Messages
31
I am building my die of old age in it house. It is in an area without a fire district, and no neighbors for miles. The entire exterior is metal.

I have a siding break, but the company that made the metal roofing pre formed all of the wrap for the windows. It cost me about $400 to have them do it, and it would have taken a least one day, or possibly two for me to break it myself. It is the same steel as the roof.

I used engineered wood for the trim as it is more stable. I took a piece of it and a drawing to the yard where I bought the metal. 3 days later I had the trim metal ready to fit the window trim. It is a good tight fit, with crisp corners. They made it in 10' 6" sticks which is pretty standard.



Galvalume and the color of your choice.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Aug 22, 2011
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Johns Creek, GA
get yourself a couple of rolls of 3" rubber cove base and use that. run glue on OSB, bead of caulk on floor and install.

works in millions of square feet of commercial warehouse space...

no reason it won't work on the personal level. plus a roll is like $100/120lf or less and it's easy as pie to install.


I concur!
 
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coalminer16

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Apr 6, 2019
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Location
MN
What kind of glue for the osb? And what cauk to hold the best to the floor?

Thank you on the warthog. Father got it to symbolize for telling the story when. He was chased by one in Africa. I am thinking I'd calling it warthog garage.

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TTMotorsports

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Jan 8, 2019
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Location
Lucerne Valley, CA
What kind of glue for the osb? And what cauk to hold the best to the floor?

Thank you on the warthog. Father got it to symbolize for telling the story when. He was chased by one in Africa. I am thinking I'd calling it warthog garage.

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I used the glue and applicator nozzle in suggested items from home depot. Had to peel off a small.piece and it ripped off some of the wood so its glued good.

No caulking too or bottom. Just glued it on.
 

Corsair4360

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Nov 7, 2013
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63
Location
Logan, Utah
2x6's mounted upright (long axis vertical) are what I am going to use in my shop which is under construction (still). It will be done by the end of September
 

NitroShark

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Jan 8, 2010
Messages
518
Location
Greenville, SC
I used the composite baseboard from HD. Worked good and cuts easy with a miter saw.


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MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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Upstate South Carolina
How about a strip of Hardiplank siding?
Fireproof & waterproof.

It's splashproof, but not waterproof. Outdoors, it has to be a minimum of 8" above grade. I left some in a puddle once, and it softens up. If it was in contact with concrete, I'd be worried about it wicking up moisture.

I'm looking at a similar issue, wanting to cover my unfinished drywall with tin liner panel rather than mudding, taping, sanding, and painting the drywall. Mine is further complicated by the floor being pitched. I was going to use PVC trim, but will look into Trex to see if it's cheaper.
 

BenderBot

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Aug 12, 2019
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Location
Raleigh
Rubber cove or PVC are both good choices. I just had an epoxy floor put in and they used a silica substance to create a continuous cove from the floor 4" up the wall and expoy'd the whole thing.
 

like2wheel

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Oct 29, 2014
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On an as needed basis
It's splashproof, but not waterproof. Outdoors, it has to be a minimum of 8" above grade. I left some in a puddle once, and it softens up. If it was in contact with concrete, I'd be worried about it wicking up moisture.
.

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that. Looking for something more fire resistant than has been suggested & was planning on using that. I occasionally use a plasma cutter or oxy torch & worry about something getting under there & smoldering
 

tab2

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Apr 9, 2009
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381
Location
Boston
Rubber cove or PVC are both good choices. I just had an epoxy floor put in and they used a silica substance to create a continuous cove from the floor 4" up the wall and expoy'd the whole thing.

/thread. Standard vinyl base is made in 2-1/2” or 4”. Expensive “millwork” base is 4-1/2” but significantly more $$$. 4’ strips are way easier than the roll and the roll with a cove gets dimpled at the cove and is hard to straighten out sometimes. Hanging vinyl base is harder than it looks if your floors are all over.
 

MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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Upstate South Carolina
I'm doing 4' pieces of rubber cove base in my basement right now. It's OK, but poor quality control. The pieces aren't the same height/shape, so there's a noticeable mismatch where pieces meet. The color match isn't great, either. It's quick and cheap, though. For a basement or a garage, it's fine.
 
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