Basic wiring diagram/question

[coleman10]

I'm trying to run a couple hot receptacles and a switched receptacle for a light above my new work area.

The source is coming from an unswitched box on the center of my garage's ceiling. Everything will be run in schedule 40 PVC.

All of this will be placed in on the wall according to the image, the top receptacle being switched for the overhead lights, the bottom receptacles will be constant hot for power. I can't think of any reason why this design won't work, but I'd figure I'd get a few opinions before I start this. I don't want to end up like this guy:

Please pardon my artistic inabilities.

Thanks, guys.

 

[sselander]

like this?
wiring a split receptacle:
http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/how-to-wire-a-split-receptacle.html

 

[coleman10]

like this?
wiring a split receptacle:
http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/how-to-wire-a-split-receptacle.html

Nope. I know how to split a receptacle. If you look at the pic I uploaded, the top box is switched, the bottom is not. Receptacles are not split within the boxes.

 

[pattenp]

It will work, but if I understand your color code you are switching the neutral which is an improper install method. You will still have an engerized hot wire at the outlet with the switch turned off.




*

 

[CJ7VFR]

It will work, but if I understand your color code you are switching the neutral which is an improper install method. You will still have an engerized hot wire at the outlet with the switch turned off.*

What if his blue and red lines are the hot and the brown lines are the neutral?

Then he would have an always hot set of outlets at the bottom and the switch would control the hot to the outlets on the top.

I think this is what he wanted to do.

Jim

 

[pattenp]

What if his blue and red lines are the hot and the brown lines are the neutral?

Then he would have an always hot set of outlets at the bottom and the switch would control the hot to the outlets on the top.

I think this is what he wanted to do.

Jim

Yeah, if that's the way he is doing the wiring then it is fine. I don't know why he used those colors. I was looking at the diagram on a scuffed up screen on a smart phone and wasn't sure of what was what. The brown looked black.

 

[CJ7VFR]

According to my wife brown is the new black this year...........

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

If the line going from the switch to the bottom set of outlets was red and blue also, then he is suggesting he is going to use some 12/2 wire from the source into the top outlet box, and then running 12/3 down to the switch box and then 12/3 to the bottom box with the set of outlets.

The red wire would be the switched hot, the blue would be the constant hot, and the brown would be the neutral. And the green is ground of course.

Jim

 

[coleman10]

Sorry, guys. Those were the only colors I had available to me and I figured it was better than using blue for all the lines. My fault that I should have noted what the colors where. After midnight my brains turn to mush. Yes, brown is neutral, blue and red are hot, and green, of course is the ground.

The intent is to make the top outlet switched. The bottom outlet is constant hot. Romex is 12-2. It's on a 20amp breaker. I figured 12-2 was the right way to go.

 

[FordTruckWench]

The intent is to make the top outlet switched. The bottom outlet is constant hot. Romex is 12-2. It's on a 20amp breaker. I figured 12-2 was the right way to go.

If you are using Romex, and **-2 Romex at that, then your diagram doesn't apply. With 12-2 Romex, you might as well run your supply down to the switch box. Use wire nuts to split it in two directions: One goes down to the always on receptacle. The other visits the switch and then heads back up to the switched receptacle.

 

[coleman10]

If you are using Romex, and **-2 Romex at that, then your diagram doesn't apply. With 12-2 Romex, you might as well run your supply down to the switch box. Use wire nuts to split it in two directions: One goes down to the always on receptacle. The other visits the switch and then heads back up to the switched receptacle.

Not certain why it wouldn't apply, but after reading your suggestion, yours is definitely simpler would require fewer splices. Thanks.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Not certain why it wouldn't apply, but after reading your suggestion, yours is definitely simpler would require fewer splices. Thanks.

Because with NM-B aka Romex, u would have to run 12/2 to the switched outlet from the source, then 12/3 between the switched outlet and switch and 12/2 to the lower receptacle.

It will be less work and fewer splices if u bring the source into the lower receptacle and then feed the switch.

 

[coleman10]

Because with NM-B aka Romex, u would have to run 12/2 to the switched outlet from the source, then 12/3 between the switched outlet and switch and 12/2 to the lower receptacle.

It will be less work and fewer splices if u bring the source into the lower receptacle and then feed the switch.

I had thought about that, which is kind of where I was going with my initial diagram. I used the suggestion of running to source the switch box, then feeding down and up. Installed, works great, pleased with the results. Thanks, guys!