Bathroom layouts

[Sumboodie]

Anything good for bathroom layout?

I'm redoing the shop apartment bathroom. Currently it's 2 rooms, one has a toilet and sink, the other has a sink, shower and washer/dryer.

I'm trying to figure if I can make it work to move everything to one room (one with toilet) after tearing down a broom closet and incorporating that given room size and waste plumbing locations. Toilet is stuck to where it is, as well as sink drain.

Right now to use shower or washer, have to go through the bedroom and the free space out of the shower is maybe 2ft and 6.5ft tall, so can barely dry off without banging the wall and ceiling.

I have some ideas, but having info on "industry standard" spacing would be helpful.

This is step 1 or getting the upstairs mezzanine finished (which i needed to get done a year ago ), as I need to move walls, ceiling, etc first....

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Would be helpful if you included sizes and layouts.

Without knowing how big a space and how it is laid out wrt. immovable fixtures, it would be hard to suggest anything.

A simple sketch with sizes would be very helpful if you want good suggestions.

 

[Sumboodie]

Would be helpful if you included sizes and layouts.

Without knowing how big a space and how it is laid out wrt. immovable fixtures, it would be hard to suggest anything.

A simple sketch with sizes would be very helpful if you want good suggestions.

I don't have that right now, I'm 800 miles away at work till next week.

Room will be roughly 7x7ft with expansion. I can draw out current layout later today though, just no measurements.

Washer/dryer is stacked and shower is a stall unit ill need to buy as i can't remove old without demo. 3x3?

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Yu still have to plumb for the shower and washer.

 

[Sumboodie]

Yu still have to plumb for the shower and washer.

Not possible, the drain pipe is the floor. Would be a nightmare trying to bust up the floor, run piping and not damage the pex in the slab.

Edit... shouldn't say impossible, but with floor heat and ~7ft ceiling i don't want to do a false floor.

 

[whateg01]

I know residential code here is 31 inches for the commode. My biggest pet peeve is when I can't plop down on the toilet and close the door without picking up my feet.

 

[nmk_61802]

Probably need to include the second space in your diagram….sounds like you don’t want to move any fixtures and just rearrange walls?

Toilet and sink can be macerated & pumped without false floor

 

[Sumboodie]

Probably need to include the second space in your diagram….sounds like you don’t want to move any fixtures and just rearrange walls?

Toilet and sink can be macerated & pumped without false floor

No idea what you're saying. Only thing that has to stay put is the toilet.

 

[nmk_61802]

No idea what you're saying. Only thing that has to stay put is the toilet.

This is why I said it's sounding like you only wanted to remove walls and not rearrange fixtures:

Not possible, the drain pipe is the floor. Would be a nightmare trying to bust up the floor, run piping and not damage the pex in the slab.

Edit... shouldn't say impossible, but with floor heat and ~7ft ceiling i don't want to do a false floor.

Post #4 which you said would not work seems to leave the toilet and the sink in the existing locations per your sketch.

 

[Sumboodie]

This is why I said it's sounding like you only wanted to remove walls and not rearrange fixtures:



Post #4 which you said would not work seems to leave the toilet and the sink in the existing locations per your sketch.

Won't work because there's no way to get sewage to the shower and washer if put there.

 

[Sumboodie]

Did some measuring. 92" wide, 90" deep. Possibly 96" deep put getting tight for the boiler, well tank and water softner.

 

[weatherby460]

u wont like **** can next to a wall like that because of splatter. Need at least 30" on each side of can.

 

[Monza Harry]

Washer output is pumped not gravity, so no floor work is required. That can all be in the walls to the sink drain, What size that needs to be IDK, 2"+ (?). The washer could also go to the shower drain as it is right there and can be sized as needed (3-4"?). You don't show a shower location so that was a no go from to start. Or it was going to require excavation from word go. Missing the in floor pex will be a challenge but not impossible, just some thermal scanning, it shouldn't be an expensive proposition to hire the scan out, then mark it with a paint marker. Do you have a plan for drain vents? No exterior walls (especially in Alaska) and within 5' (pipe length) of every fixture or separate venting brought to the main stack. I would swap the washer/dryer stack and the shower, as the dryer vent will then be on that wall (exterior?) Glass shower enclosure will make that room appear bigger wih the swap, and better shower lighting. Just some thoughts. A macerating toilet grinds the waste then pumps it through a smaller pipe to the drain (½-¾"?). Google is your friend! Harry

 

[Sumboodie]

u wont like **** can next to a wall like that because of splatter. Need at least 30" on each side of can.

What exactly are you doing to splatter even a foot away?

Standard is around 15" from bowl center side clearance and 20" in front

 

[whateg01]

What exactly are you doing to splatter even a foot away?

Standard is around 15" from bowl center side clearance and 20" in front

Code here is 31" allowed side to side, of course generally centered. He's probably the guy who pisses all over the seat.

 

[Sumboodie]

Washer output is pumped not gravity, so no floor work is required. That can all be in the walls to the sink drain, What size that needs to be IDK, 2"+ (?). The washer could also go to the shower drain as it is right there and can be sized as needed (3-4"?). You don't show a shower location so that was a no go from to start. Or it was going to require excavation from word go. Missing the in floor pex will be a challenge but not impossible, just some thermal scanning, it shouldn't be an expensive proposition to hire the scan out, then mark it with a paint marker. Do you have a plan for drain vents? No exterior walls (especially in Alaska) and within 5' (pipe length) of every fixture or separate venting brought to the main stack. I would swap the washer/dryer stack and the shower, as the dryer vent will then be on that wall (exterior?) Glass shower enclosure will make that room appear bigger wih the swap, and better shower lighting. Just some thoughts. A macerating toilet grinds the waste then pumps it through a smaller pipe to the drain (½-¾"?). Google is your friend! Harry

Already a vent stack, shown on my blueprint.
There isn't currently a shower, it's in another room.

Dryer is ventless.

 

[Sumboodie]

Code here is 31" allowed side to side, of course generally centered. He's probably the guy who pisses all over the seat.

I was thinking 30", 15" each side.

Minor splashes from toilet water bound to happen, but it's not like it's a truck stop toilet seeing 1000 people a day.
Wipe the walls down every year or two.

 

[Sturgeon]

Understand you want a 3/4 restroom, but what if you give up the 36" shower stall and end up with a decent powder room? Cramped long term restroom`s aren't pleasant at any cost, not to mention if you want to sell in the future. Good luck.

 

[Sumboodie]

Understand you want a 3/4 restroom, but what if you give up the 36" shower stall and end up with a decent powder room? Cramped long term restroom`s aren't pleasant at any cost, not to mention if you want to sell in the future. Good luck.

The whole point of this is to have a shower.

~60 sq ft bathroom wouldn't be cramped.

Already have an area where I store my gunpowder.

 

[nadogail]

I would call a bathroom remodel contractor and listen carefully to their free estimate and pro proposal and then go from there. You may want to call more than one just to pick their brains.
After you have got all the free education you can then avoid the middle men and shop your own deals.

 

[billconner]

Just catching up.

Not possible, the drain pipe is the floor. Would be a nightmare trying to bust up the floor, run piping and not damage the pex in the slab.

In light of that, how can you put a shower anywhere in that area?

 

[Sturgeon]

I would call a bathroom remodel contractor and listen carefully to their free estimate and pro proposal and then go from there. You may want to call more than one just to pick their brains.
After you have got all the free education you can then avoid the middle men and shop your own deals.

Yikes, just a novel idea, why not be up front with the plumber and compensat him for his fuel, insurance, year's of training and much more. Here he's baby sitting a home owner while leaving a good paying job and away from his family time. Unbelievable.

 

[Sturgeon]

The whole point of this is to have a shower.

~60 sq ft bathroom wouldn't be cramped.

Already have an area where I store my gunpowder.

Gunpowder/half bathroom ? Like I said, good luck.

 

[rayra]

Typical stick built tract homes have bathrooms that are 5'W and 8-10'L, depending on adjacent room and hallway layouts. Toilets are typically adjacent to shower / tub (and there have been a few food poisonings where I was damned glad for it).
You're in Alaska, pretty sure you don't want any plumbing in exterior walls.
Also damned sure I wouldn't want to sit next to an exterior wall either.
If you have a crawlspace, it's very easy to relocate that toilet. I've shifted toilets twice in concrete slabs, I won't say it was easy, but it wasn't hard either.
Don't know where the WI guy comes off sayin 30" clear to each side, that friggin ludicrous. Maybe to one side in a public handicapped stall. And nowhere else.
The toilet nooks in my suburban residential southwest house are framed at 36"W with the toilets centered in that width. You want a LOT more than 20" in front of the toilet if you can at all. IF you are ever encumbered in any way, got a leg in a cast, need someone's help at the toilet, 20" is nowhere near enough room.

I've remodeled several bathrooms that were little more than nooks, crammed into odd spaces. Usually as a 2nd or 3rd bathroom.

You seem to have a large area to work with, but it isn't clear what other criteria or limitations are at play. And you seem to be planning a tiny shower cubicle, 34"x34", 36"x36". I'm 6' and tell you now that planning on such a small enclosure is planning to fail, especially when you seem to have room for a full 5' tub/shower arrangement. Maybe you don't have enough water for a tub? And if you are planning to build the shower outright and not use a prefab enclosure, then I'd strongly encourage making it at least 40" square.

 

[Sumboodie]

Current shower is 3x3ft and is plenty large. Have never found it to be small.
It's just off a bedroom so it's very inconvenient for 2 people that work different shifts... IE person is sleeping.

The walls aren't cold, they are about 8" thick. Plumbing currently is on the exterior walls.
Have no reason for a tub. Haven't taken a bath in probably 35 years.

 

[Sumboodie]

 

[billconner]

I don't see shower in that sketch. I'm not comfortable with only 16" clear in front of toilet.

 

[Sumboodie]

I don't see shower in that sketch. I'm not comfortable with only 16" clear in front of toilet.

There isn't one, I'm putting it in.

It didn't build it. They screwed up the pipe location i think as there's ~4" from the tank to the wall.

 

[billconner]

OK - existing, not proposed. I misunderstood.

 

[PoorUB]

I would call a bathroom remodel contractor and listen carefully to their free estimate and pro proposal and then go from there. You may want to call more than one just to pick their brains.

I'm guessing with his location remodeling contractors are very few.

 

[Sumboodie]

I'm guessing with his location remodeling contractors are very few.

Dunno, but they aren't going to do it free anyhow.

 

[PoorUB]

Tear out the bulk of the walls to the hallway, move the door and stick a shower in the "closet" area?? You still need to bust up floor for the shower drain, unless I an confused!

 

[billconner]

I don't know if you are planning to change the vanity, or if this would require it, but coupling PoorUB's plan with a corner toilet might work.

No good solution for shower drain unless you can raise shower and toilet 6" or so.

 

[Jim greengo]

Not possible, the drain pipe is the floor. Would be a nightmare trying to bust up the floor, run piping and not damage the pex in the slab.

Edit... shouldn't say impossible, but with floor heat and ~7ft ceiling i don't want to do a false floor.

Washing machine should run independently to 3" in a perfect world anyway,is it being inspected?

 

[Sumboodie]

Ideas

 

[Sumboodie]

Washing machine should run independently to 3" in a perfect world anyway,is it being inspected?

1.5" is requirement, but 2" is likely what I'm using. 3" would be ridiculous.

 

[Sumboodie]

Tear out the bulk of the walls to the hallway, move the door and stick a shower in the "closet" area?? You still need to bust up floor for the shower drain, unless I an confused!

Walls are going away other than exterior and apartment.

 

[Sumboodie]

I don't know if you are planning to change the vanity, or if this would require it, but coupling PoorUB's plan with a corner toilet might work.

No good solution for shower drain unless you can raise shower and toilet 6" or so.

Yeah, 4". Will have to, or bust up the floor which I'm not wanting to do as it's got at least 2 of the 4 loops of my floor heat.
Doable, but lot of work.

Only have 14ft ceiling and need at least 6.25ft upstairs. 4" should fit 2" pipe fine. Might need to go with 1.5"

 

[billconner]

Yeah, 4". Will have to, or bust up the floor which I'm not wanting to do as it's got at least 2 of the 4 loops of my floor heat.
Doable, but lot of work.

Only have 14ft ceiling and need at least 6.25ft upstairs. 4" should fit 2" pipe fine. Might need to go with 1.5"

Doesn't shower require 2" dev? tub is 1 1/2" iirc.

 

[Sumboodie]

Doesn't shower require 2" dev? tub is 1 1/2" iirc.

It requires whatever I want to use.