Beginner Needs Tool Advice
- Thread starter wacomme
- Start date
shoturtle
Well-known member
I like the long shaft one, with the short short shaft you need to buy the extension. Also I like working with the longer shaft vs a shorty.
Good idea. I hate using extensions.. sloppy. Bleh.
Also, I could have thrown in a "That's what she said", but I won't.
shoturtle
Well-known member
Yeah, I was trying to find a non twistable way of saying it. But there is really to many way to put it. Thanks for the tongue in cheek way of poking fun at this one.
kippieland
Well-known member
I'm sure they will have that one...If you have a Costco membership they have a box similar size as well.
shoturtle
Well-known member
cheaper sometimes, but about the same quality as the some of the supplier make carts for CM, Husky and Lowes. But Sears has a easier warranty to deal with then Costco.
The thing about the little beginner set is that the bottom has 3 big deep draws. That is not always the best uses of space. And unless you are planning allot more large tools/power tools. Adding the top chest top chest to put most of the smaller hand tools.
The 5 draw chart with 1 shallow draw is a great size for screw drivers and plier. And the mid size for ratchet sets. And the bulky stuff in the large bottom. More shallow and mid size draws are a better tool cart organization and space management.
The thing about the little beginner set is that the bottom has 3 big deep draws. That is not always the best uses of space. And unless you are planning allot more large tools/power tools. Adding the top chest top chest to put most of the smaller hand tools.
The 5 draw chart with 1 shallow draw is a great size for screw drivers and plier. And the mid size for ratchet sets. And the bulky stuff in the large bottom. More shallow and mid size draws are a better tool cart organization and space management.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
15" depth usually gets you into real crappy boxes for rollers. An exception is the Kennedy rollers @ 20" wide made for the smaller technician boxes. That one is 12-13" deep. I have one of those that is all drawers.
My socket collection is a mess, and when I sorted them last light I had a devil of a time trying to read the sizes (my near vision is bad). I need an organizational system for sockets and hex bits, screwdriver bits, etc. that is easy to read and use.
This Wera Zyklops system (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O9M4BE/?tag=atomicindus08-20) seems nice (albeit expensive), but it seems to have most of the bits, sockets, etc. that I need. However, as a ratcheting screwdriver, it's a bit of overkill compared to this Wera ratcheting screwdriver (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/?tag=atomicindus08-20) I was originally considering.
If I went with just the ratcheting Wera screwdriver, is there a nice set of Wera or Wiha 1/4" sockets, and hex bits that have large labels and easily organized.
Separately, I'm seeking a set of small screwdrivers mostly to work on small items and electrical appliances around the house. Is this a good set? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZ5QGK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This Wera Zyklops system (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O9M4BE/?tag=atomicindus08-20) seems nice (albeit expensive), but it seems to have most of the bits, sockets, etc. that I need. However, as a ratcheting screwdriver, it's a bit of overkill compared to this Wera ratcheting screwdriver (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/?tag=atomicindus08-20) I was originally considering.
If I went with just the ratcheting Wera screwdriver, is there a nice set of Wera or Wiha 1/4" sockets, and hex bits that have large labels and easily organized.
Separately, I'm seeking a set of small screwdrivers mostly to work on small items and electrical appliances around the house. Is this a good set? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZ5QGK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
kippieland
Well-known member
18 is standard for decent box...I would go any smaller...ie what outlaw said. When your at Sears look at there socket organizing selection. I have socket trays but I think that might be overkill....socket rails would probably be the best for you...they also sell cheaper options as well.
If you are having a hard time reading your sockets, take a Sharpie, some clear finger nail polish and write the size on the socket. Won't last forever, but makes it a lot easier to read...or buy an easy-read set.
If you are having a hard time reading your sockets, take a Sharpie, some clear finger nail polish and write the size on the socket. Won't last forever, but makes it a lot easier to read...or buy an easy-read set.
kippieland
Well-known member
No all sockets are standard size..1/4, 3/8, and 1/2. i have Kobalt socket trays with Craftsman sockets on them. Just at Sears and they had that top box for $39..said they are discontinuing it.
shoturtle
Well-known member
This is the other wera zyclop set in 1/4 drive.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWZLU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
with the wiha screw driver set, as you are looking to work one electrical thing, I would get the esd version instead.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AN16QI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
The esd screwdriver set is probably best. However, at times it's nice to have a little magnetism for screws in hard to reach places.
Regarding the Wera ratcheting screwdriver OR the Zyklop, I'm at a loss. I'm not going to buy both, but I don't know which one is the better choice for my needs. Ugh. I'm tending towards the ratcheting screwdriver since it's cheaper, and buy sockets and bits separately (combo likely to be more expensive in the end) - Ugh!!!!!!
I also need a utility knife. Any preferences?
As for a tool chest, I'll do a little used searching; I don't want to buy a chest more expensive than the sum of my tools!!!! Yet I want something durable and a pleasure to use. Still thinking 26" wide rolling bottom and small top.
shoturtle
Well-known member
You can get the wiha magnet make the tip magnetic and then demagnetize the tip.
http://www.google.com/products/cata...T4aZA8Tv0gGVne33Cg&ved=0CFAQ8wIwAQ#ps-sellers
The chest I would just get the bottom, and not get the top chest. For what you will have, the 5 draw sears is a really good option. And it is only 142 dollars. It is easy to get caught up with wanting more. But when you break down what you have, just getting the bottom will provide you plenty of storage.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00912733000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
That is why even though you want to spend on high quality tool, but really break down what you have and need. And get the right things that fits your need. You can always add a top chest later on if you need more storage. JMTC
I have a gerber utility knife, where you can change out with standard utility blades.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YABQTA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
OK I'm confused; are you looking for a top chest, or a bottom roller? if a top chest and a swing open top is an issue there is also the option of an intermediate box.
If cost is an issue, get busy on your local Craigs List and be a little patient. Decent boxes come up all the time cheaper than new at sears, (and I have lost all faith in the current Craftsman offerings) and much better built than most if not all of the new 26 wide X 18 deep boxes.
If cost is an issue, get busy on your local Craigs List and be a little patient. Decent boxes come up all the time cheaper than new at sears, (and I have lost all faith in the current Craftsman offerings) and much better built than most if not all of the new 26 wide X 18 deep boxes.
shoturtle
Well-known member
I was a little confuse also. When that 300+ dollar number came it. I am assuming it was roller cart and top case together.
my .02 skip the snapon stuff, HF composite ratchets...i bought the whole set no banging noises or dinging the AL stuff not that i ever have, i just like using it on that type stuff better, it really make you cringe when you get in a hurry and get a nice ding sound with the others
For allen keys i'd want something plated, non plated steel ones leave bits which rust in the allen heads i've noticed but i'm in fl...everything rust from the humidity eventually...i spray bolts down with crc and a wipe (really just a wax and solvent i'm pretty sure).
For allen keys i'd want something plated, non plated steel ones leave bits which rust in the allen heads i've noticed but i'm in fl...everything rust from the humidity eventually...i spray bolts down with crc and a wipe (really just a wax and solvent i'm pretty sure).
oh on utility knife, this is my fav
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...=-1&keyword=hysky utility knife&storeId=10051
it's the only one that hasn't pissed me off changing blades or fell apart in a month. All metal and you just turn that little metal dial to remove the blade, all the other quick change ones i've tried were junk.
They have a metal dewalt snapoff one too that's bit more solid than the usual plastic ones. I use that to trim out ppf film to put in certain areas of my bikes (under bottom tubes, etc).
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...=-1&keyword=hysky utility knife&storeId=10051
it's the only one that hasn't pissed me off changing blades or fell apart in a month. All metal and you just turn that little metal dial to remove the blade, all the other quick change ones i've tried were junk.
They have a metal dewalt snapoff one too that's bit more solid than the usual plastic ones. I use that to trim out ppf film to put in certain areas of my bikes (under bottom tubes, etc).
volunteers
Well-known member
i really don't know what you are talking about.
I recommend Olfa to everyone I know just because of the quality. Replacement blades aren't too bad either. Pretty sure they're made in Japan.
http://www.olfa.com/UtilityKnivesList.aspx?C=39
http://www.olfa.com/UtilityKnivesList.aspx?C=39
OK. Here are some of my thoughts and revised "buy list".
1) The photos of my tools are incomplete. Not pictured are my bicycle tools, spare bike parts, my electric impact driver, an electric car buffer, etc. I'd like to place all of these items into a tool chest - thus the need for a rolling bottom and top chest. Considering the price of new, and oftentimes mediocre construction, I'll spend some time looking for used.
2) The Wera ratcheting screwdriver is my biggest conundrum right now, through I'm leaning towards the basic model, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/?tag=atomicindus08-20, and not the Zyklops.
3) 48" levels are a bit of a concern. Buy Empire for $55, or spend $100 for a Stabila. It seems that the Stabila will last me a lifetime, whereas the Empire may not. Also, is a magnetic side useful?
4) The Wiha magnetizer/demagnetizer looks interesting, but I read that the demagnetizer doesn't work so well. Perhaps I can do without small magnetic screwdrivers (just the EDS set).
So, again, here's my updated list. Thoughts/opinions?
1) Fastcap PMMR-TRUE32 PMMR True32 5m, Metric/Metric Reverse measuring tape: $8.53, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GFHABG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
2) Wiha 33496 8-Piece Soft Grip T-Handle Ball End Hex Metric, $36.18, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002S0O9MK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
3) Wera KK 25 7-In-1 Bitholding Screwdriver with Removable Bayonet Blade (SL/PH), $34.25, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
4) J.H. Williams CDI Pro Torq Bicycle Tool, $25.05, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XG5YIA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
5) Two NWS cutters/pliers from http://www.german-hand-tools.com/index.html, 138-69-200 and 1406-69-200. With my currently needle-nose pliers, are the 1406 ones redundant?
6) Wiha 27390 Slotted And Phillips Screwdriver Set, Precision ESD Safe, 7 Piece, $29, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AN16QI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
7) Misc. Wera or Wiha sockets as needed to fill in the gaps in my collection. I need a basic metric set (prefer large size labels on sockets and/or a good organizational method).
8) A good tool chest. Most likely used. Bottom roller and top.
9) Olfa PRO18mm Heavy-Duty Comfort Grip Utility Knife, $8.89, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005S7WHJW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
10) Stabila 37816 48-Inch and 16-Inch Aluminum Box Beam Level Set, $100, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000A9918/?tag=atomicindus08-20
1) The photos of my tools are incomplete. Not pictured are my bicycle tools, spare bike parts, my electric impact driver, an electric car buffer, etc. I'd like to place all of these items into a tool chest - thus the need for a rolling bottom and top chest. Considering the price of new, and oftentimes mediocre construction, I'll spend some time looking for used.
2) The Wera ratcheting screwdriver is my biggest conundrum right now, through I'm leaning towards the basic model, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/?tag=atomicindus08-20, and not the Zyklops.
3) 48" levels are a bit of a concern. Buy Empire for $55, or spend $100 for a Stabila. It seems that the Stabila will last me a lifetime, whereas the Empire may not. Also, is a magnetic side useful?
4) The Wiha magnetizer/demagnetizer looks interesting, but I read that the demagnetizer doesn't work so well. Perhaps I can do without small magnetic screwdrivers (just the EDS set).
So, again, here's my updated list. Thoughts/opinions?
1) Fastcap PMMR-TRUE32 PMMR True32 5m, Metric/Metric Reverse measuring tape: $8.53, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GFHABG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
2) Wiha 33496 8-Piece Soft Grip T-Handle Ball End Hex Metric, $36.18, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002S0O9MK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
3) Wera KK 25 7-In-1 Bitholding Screwdriver with Removable Bayonet Blade (SL/PH), $34.25, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
4) J.H. Williams CDI Pro Torq Bicycle Tool, $25.05, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XG5YIA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
5) Two NWS cutters/pliers from http://www.german-hand-tools.com/index.html, 138-69-200 and 1406-69-200. With my currently needle-nose pliers, are the 1406 ones redundant?
6) Wiha 27390 Slotted And Phillips Screwdriver Set, Precision ESD Safe, 7 Piece, $29, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AN16QI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
7) Misc. Wera or Wiha sockets as needed to fill in the gaps in my collection. I need a basic metric set (prefer large size labels on sockets and/or a good organizational method).
8) A good tool chest. Most likely used. Bottom roller and top.
9) Olfa PRO18mm Heavy-Duty Comfort Grip Utility Knife, $8.89, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005S7WHJW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
10) Stabila 37816 48-Inch and 16-Inch Aluminum Box Beam Level Set, $100, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000A9918/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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Though I'm sure I'd find other uses for it, right now my main interest in a 48" level is to level my bike and to make mm positional adjustments. Perhaps this could be done with a cheaper level than Stabila (though I want to be able to rely on the level's accuracy year after year). However, I need a digital level regardless if I buy a 48" level (Digi-Pas DWL-80E Mini Pocket Size Digital Level Electronic Angle Gauge, $29, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NPJGL0/?tag=atomicindus08-20), so perhaps I could "get by" with the digital level and a steel meter still (maybe wood since steel meter sticks are hard find); I would lay the digital level on the meter still and adjust until level. Hmm.
shoturtle
Well-known member
I would just get a 24 inch digital/bubble level. Unless you are working with very large pieces the 24 inch is long enough. Something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037NXW2K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037NXW2K/?tag=atomicindus08-20
shoturtle
Well-known member
why not get a standard 48 bubble level and a smaller digital level. And use the 48 as a meter stick, and fine tune with the digital. That would save you about 1/2 the price of the stabile. And the metal level will not warp like a wood meter stick with the changes in seasons.
Like this empire
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ngId=-1&keyword=empire 48 level&storeId=10051
or this stanley
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X2F2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Like this empire
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...ngId=-1&keyword=empire 48 level&storeId=10051
or this stanley
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X2F2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
shoturtle
Well-known member
on the metric socket unless you want to pay more for the bigger name, the lowes kolbolt are color coded and easy to read 1/4 drive.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_338637-2542...RL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=metric+socket+set&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_338637-2542...RL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=metric+socket+set&facetInfo=
Honestly I think you are way over thinking this whole process...
Anything and everything just buy something already, I even did my rear brakes (pads and rotors) with a dollar store 3/8" socket set when I was poor right out of college. Ideal? No but it didn't round the 15 year old caliper bolts and took everything off just fine. You've already said you have bad memories of using Craftsman, so that is out, but anything else including Harbor Freight is fine. If you don't care about COO go buy anything from Taiwan or even China that looks halfway decent, take them out of the package, and use them!
You might enjoy this type of discussion, but I personally just buy the stuff. I use Cman almost exclusively as I like US but I don't want to spend a fortune. For my purposes, up to and including taking out engines, it's never let me down. There is a mechanic on here, under name "Mechanic named John" that uses Harbor Freight exclusively in a pro environment and doesn't have any issues. Seriously it really doesn't matter. My only true rec is to avoid any boutique brands and get something readily available at a brick and mortar store for your basic tools, that way you can handle them.
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Yes. I live in my head most of the time when I'm not riding my bike. Since I'm nursing a leg injury and haven't been able to ride for the past two weeks (just swimming and upper body weights, limited stretching and yoga), my mind has drifted to other topics, re-thinking my tool set-up being one of those topics. Thanks for the indulgence.
This thread has outlived its life. Thanks for the advice; I learned a lot in the process. I also have a good idea of what tools I want and don't want, or need. Again, thank you very much.
Michael
This thread has outlived its life. Thanks for the advice; I learned a lot in the process. I also have a good idea of what tools I want and don't want, or need. Again, thank you very much.
Michael
Anything and everything just buy something already, I even did my rear brakes (pads and rotors) with a dollar store 3/8" socket set when I was poor right out of college. Ideal? No but it didn't round the 15 year old caliper bolts and took everything off just fine. You've already said you have bad memories of using Craftsman, so that is out, but anything else including Harbor Freight is fine. If you don't care about COO go buy anything from Taiwan or even China that looks halfway decent, take them out of the package, and use them!
You might enjoy this type of discussion, but I personally just buy the stuff. I use Cman almost exclusively as I like US but I don't want to spend a fortune. For my purposes, up to and including taking out engines, it's never let me down. There is a mechanic on here, under name "Mechanic named John" that uses Harbor Freight exclusively in a pro environment and doesn't have any issues. Seriously it really doesn't matter. My only true rec is to avoid any boutique brands and get something readily available here in the US at a brick and mortar store.
shoturtle
Well-known member
They are good tools, and a simple warranty, if you break one, just bring it to lowes for an exchange. It is made in Taiwan, but they make good tools there. Snap on make allot of their williams and bluepoint there.