Bench grinder problems

[bbcmudtruck]

Thank you sir! I live in a very rural community, so the big box stores are 60 miles away. I'm going to try the smaller one thats close by. I'm just going to use the 110 since thats what I have the most outlets of. If it turns out to be not enough, I'll do some more research and figure out the 220.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[My Old Tools]

110 will work fine. Just make sure you know which leads connect to which to run on 110.

 

[2oolhound]

OK, I have the ends off and it looks like there is a switch in there. Now that we know that, what capacitor should I put back in it?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Hi, this is the shot where I thought the shaft looks blue in front of the bearing on the top side of the photo It's always hard to determine these things from photos but the shaft does seem to have a darker tone near the bearing. Blue is the 1st colour to appear when steel breaks down from heat. Quite often some light polishing will take the colour off and the shaft could be fine but it does look discoloured there.

 

[kythri]

Doesn't look blue to me, just looks clean/rust-free.

 

[kythri]

My 10" Baldor grinder needs bearings based on it coasting for 5 minutes after I turn it off, but I just haven't found the time.

That's indicative of bad bearings? I would have thought it would be the exact opposite.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

I had to go out and double check, but the shaft is just clean right there due to the dust shields built into the side case for the bearings. Good to go as far as that goes. The photos do make it appear blue though.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[My Old Tools]

That's indicative of bad bearings? I would have thought it would be the exact opposite.

New bearings are filled with grease which creates drag. They are very smooth feeling but have some resistance to them. Old bearings with all the grease gone are looser and coast much longer. They also are going to be completely shot soon.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

OK fellas, I've cleaned the switch on the inside of the cover and its all good to go. I also managed to get to town today and get 6 ft of 12/3 wire and a new heavy duty plug. While I'm waiting on the new capacitor to get here, I'd like to wire everything back up and just see if all the bad wires were the problem. I know that most likely that wasn't, so just humor me here!

So I would like to do away with the lights and the safety switches. How do I wire this back up so that the switch just turns the motor on? The switch has 4 poles and there is 4 wires coming out of the motor, labeled 1-2-3-4. I also need guidance as to which wires coming from the power source go as well!

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[The Cobbler]

oh man, you didn't keep track of the wiring before you took it apart?

 

[bbcmudtruck]

Ya, I have 20 or more pictures. I just wasn't sure if it would go back together the same way since I was taking the lights and safety switches out.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[The Cobbler]

I imagine the safety's would have been wired in series ? , just take them out of the circuit (basically by pass them )
the lights would have been wired in parallel with the switch and motor , do not reinstall them.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

OK got it. I wired it back up just like it was, without wiring the lights and safteys in. Of course it still doesn't work, but hell I had to try! Thanks for the help! I'll post back up when the capacitor arrives.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[The Cobbler]

have you actually been able to determine that is wired for 120? or is it possible it is wired for 240 and has a 120 plug on it?

 

[American Locomotive]

OK got it. I wired it back up just like it was, without wiring the lights and safteys in. Of course it still doesn't work, but hell I had to try! Thanks for the help! I'll post back up when the capacitor arrives.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Like I mentioned in an earlier post, for kicks, wrap a string around one of the wheels (or shaft), give it a good strong pull, and then flip the switch. See if it spins up.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

have you actually been able to determine that is wired for 120? or is it possible it is wired for 240 and has a 120 plug on it?

No, actually I haven't been able to determine that. Any ideas as to what I need to look for?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[rhandwor]

http://www.electrical-online.com/should-i-connect-my-motor-to-120-or-240-volt/
You could call and ask if the previous owner ran it on 240 Volt.
The picture on the link data plate will show you how it's wired. The work you have done looks good.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

Like I mentioned in an earlier post, for kicks, wrap a string around one of the wheels (or shaft), give it a good strong pull, and then flip the switch. See if it spins up.

OK, I'll give that a shot and see what happens. When I spin it by hand and then flip the switch on, it actually slows it down a lot. To be clear, turning the power on slows the shaft down considerably, when spun by hand.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[bbcmudtruck]

The new capacitor showed up today. Probably a stupid question, buy the old capacitor has 2 plugs on it and the new on has 4. Does it matter as to which wires go where? As in is there a positive and negative, or just hook them up and go?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[bbcmudtruck]

New capacitor vs old.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[kythri]

While there are technicaly 4 prongs, it's two prongs on two leads (i.e. the two prongs on side connect to the same lead).

I can't answer your other question for certain, but looking at how the old was wired up, my guess would be just hook them up and go.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

I got it up and running! Thanks to all of you who helped me along the way! I'd like to replace the grinding wheel and wire wheel. Which brand would you guys go with, or does it matter?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[American Locomotive]

I've heard Norton wheels are pretty good. Every grinder I've ever gotten always had decent wheels on it.

 

[The Cobbler]

great to hear !

 

[bubinga]

So, Basically it was the capacitor?

 

[bbcmudtruck]

Yes it was the capacitor. I went ahead and put a new power cord on it and took all the lights and safety's off of it though. I put 6 foot of 12/3 and a heavy duty plug in the end if it. Now that I know it runs, I'm going to order up some new bearings and replace the roll pins on the shaft's. I'll blast it and give it a good paint job along with a new grinder/wire wheel. I'll post up some photos when I get that done.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[bubinga]

Nice, Good Job, That's a Nice grinder.
Glad it was something simple.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

Nice, Good Job, That's a Nice grinder.
Glad it was something simple.

I'm glad it was something simple as well. Thanks to you guys, its been called back into duty!

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[The Cobbler]

yee haaa! GJ resurrects another from the dead

 

[454ragtop]

Any chance what you're calling safeties are actually push button switches for the lights? Never heard of a grinder with safeties (?) built in to the lights. Congrats on getting it running. Do the bearings sound bad? Nothing wrong with replacing them, but I always hate to make a problem where none exists.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

Well, possibly. The bearing on the right side spins a little too freely compared to the left side. Its nice and quiet and doesn't make any noises. I just thought I'd go ahead and do maintenance on it while I had it apart for blasting and paint.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[American Locomotive]

If it runs smooth and quiet, put the bearings on the shelf and change them when the time comes. No point in breaking something that works.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

Any chance what you're calling safeties are actually push button switches for the lights? Never heard of a grinder with safeties (?) built in to the lights. Congrats on getting it running. Do the bearings sound bad? Nothing wrong with replacing them, but I always hate to make a problem where none exists.

No, the safety's arent part of the lights. They were just tucked up into the fold down face shields, along with the lights. I recon they worked off of gravity and would shut the grinder down if you tilted the face shields up.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[bbcmudtruck]

If it runs smooth and quiet, put the bearings on the shelf and change them when the time comes. No point in breaking something that works.

I know, don't fix it if it ain't broke. It just bugs me that the bearing in that side seemed like it was dry or something. Just spins to freely.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[bbcmudtruck]

yee haaa! GJ resurrects another from the dead

Yes sir, thanks for your help!

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[Cruzan80]

Now that you know it works without any extras, you can slowly experiment with adding things in, and seeing where the issues are (if any). See, wasn't that hard once you got into it!

 

[bubinga]

I know, don't fix it if it ain't broke. It just bugs me that the bearing in that side seemed like it was dry or something. Just spins to freely.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

As long as the old ones press off nice and easy, I don't see a problem replacing them.
Maybe but the shaft in the freezer overnight, and set the inner race on a light bulb for a few minuets, before pressing them on.
You probably know, but if pressing the bearing onto a shaft, press Only by the Inner Race.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

Now that you know it works without any extras, you can slowly experiment with adding things in, and seeing where the issues are (if any). See, wasn't that hard once you got into it!

Yep, it wasn't hard at all with all the advice from GJ! I'd like to put the lights back on, but retro fit them with leds.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[bbcmudtruck]

As long as the old ones press off nice and easy, I don't see a problem replacing them.
Maybe but the shaft in the freezer overnight, and set the inner race on a light bulb for a few minuets, before pressing them on.
You probably know, but if pressing the bearing onto a shaft, press Only by the Inner Race.

Got it. I've built a few hotrods, just haven't messed with electricity very much. Changing the bearings out would be the easy part for me haha.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[American Locomotive]

I know, don't fix it if it ain't broke. It just bugs me that the bearing in that side seemed like it was dry or something. Just spins to freely.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

If you don't hear any kind of excessive bearing noise, and there is minimal shaft play, I wouldn't worry about it. Ball bearings generally let you know in a pretty obvious way when they're not happy.

I've just heard of people messing up their once working grinders doing a bearing change before. I'd hate to see that happen here.

 

[bbcmudtruck]

If you don't hear any kind of excessive bearing noise, and there is minimal shaft play, I wouldn't worry about it. Ball bearings generally let you know in a pretty obvious way when they're not happy.

I've just heard of people messing up their once working grinders doing a bearing change before. I'd hate to see that happen here.

I agree. I dont want to mess up a very cheap and well made tool by trying to fix something that isn't broke yet. I might just take your advice in this one.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk