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1982fxr

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And here's what a Wissota grinder looks like. Like many Wissota grinders, it has an integral quench tray. The switch on most Wissotas is located in a recess on the base, while the Doerr-made Daytons had the switch on a bulge on the base (sort of the opposite of the Wissota). Also note the distinctive modern lines, similar to some of the Taiwanese grinders of the 80's---Wissota was first! This happens to be a 10-inch model and is a rather large grinder (that was the only beer bottle I had handy at the time), yet since it is made of die-cast aluminum it is only about 75 lbs or so.

Yeah buddy! That is one of the later models from right before they dropped out of the bench grinder business I think.

The trademark of Wissota was the shape of the shaft castings. Will snap pics of my Milwaukee badged industrial tomorrow...
 

Will McRay

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How about a belt grinder... ec77518a0f9446f6dbbe10730aead3ad.jpg7d4c3f14f7db9fda95cec79a58fa342e.jpge71b48b4b51d6232bab12a78c2a29528.jpg
 

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smalltown

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What is the difference between a block grinder, and a bench grinder or they the same thing ? It almost seems like the older rectangular ones are called box, but the round style are called bench grinders.

Also If I wanted to clean up small parts by buffing, and re-edge a broken screwdriver etc. maybe even re-sharpen a mower blade should I look for any particular horse power rating. I see so many different HP ratings. At first I thought the more HP the better, but I see posters with 1/3 HP that think they are great so I am confused.

One last thought: most "grinders" that I see come with 2 wheels I'm guessing one is more coarse than the other. If I had a grinder with say a 1/2 " arbor is it just a simple matter of buying a 1/2" arbor wire wheel brush, and shim it out with washers to center it inside the guards ?
 

torqueman2002

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I'll take a stab at your questions, since I was the one who mentioned block grinders. See my replies in Red.
What is the difference between a block grinder, and a bench grinder or they the same thing ? Without seeming to be too flip, all Block (styled motor) grinders are bench grinders; but not all bench grinders are block grinders.
"... the classic Craftsman bench grinders that were manufactured for Sears by Paramount/Allegretti & Co. from the early 1960's to early 1980's. Affectionately known as "Block Motor" grinders because of their unique shape, these power tools have developed a large following among shop enthusiasts because of their legendary reliability, accuracy, and power.

The "Block Motor" grinder can be readily identified by the Sears manufacturer prefix of 397 or 257 (as in 397.XXXXX); which is stamped on the front label. Popular models include 1/4-HP, 1/3-HP, 1/2-HP, 3/4-HP, and 1-HP Industrial units.
"
Link to: "Vintage Craftsman "Block Motor" bench grinder info -" (source)
http://tinyurl.com/CM-Block-motor-style-grinders
"People always want to know what makes these things {CM Block grinders} so special; here's the reason. Look at those field windings. That is some VERY thick copper wire. When compared to a modern Chinese winding, these look GIGANTIC. The imports use very thin field wire. This is what makes these "block motors" so darn powerful and long lasting." Source - http://tinyurl.com/0-5-HP-CM-Block-Motor-FINISHED

For more information, see the 1st link in my signature line.

It almost seems like the older rectangular ones are called box, but the round style are called bench grinders.

Also If I wanted to clean up small parts by buffing, and re-edge a broken screwdriver etc. maybe even re-sharpen a mower blade should I look for any particular horse power rating. I see so many different HP ratings. At first I thought the more HP the better, but I see posters with 1/3 HP that think they are great so I am confused.
I have found that there is a bit of a HP game played by some makers of consumer/hobby power tools, made since the 80's.

For example, a Baldor (new or older) is an honest 1/3-HP and will 'out perform' a modern Big Box store 1/2 or 3/4-HP grinder. I believe the way Baldor calculates the HP is more conservative because it is really a machine designed for continuous use in an industrial/commercial application.

The challenge when putting a new edge on a tool, knife, or screwdriver is the grinding stone heats the metal and draws the temper (strength) from it.

I use a hand held grinder to sharpen mower blades.

Buffing takes more HP. Baldor sells a 2-speed 3/4-HP buffer, available from TP Tools. http://www.tptools.com/BALDOR-3and4HP-2-Speed-Buffer-and-Packages,8281.html?b=s*buffer

One last thought: most "grinders" that I see come with 2 wheels I'm guessing one is more coarse than the other. If I had a grinder with say a 1/2 " arbor is it just a simple matter of buying a 1/2" arbor wire wheel brush, and shim it out with washers to center it inside the guards?
I have done that, but they can create imbalance. Graingers has arbor spacers available in various dia. and thickness that I prefer. {Arbor Spacer, 1/2 ID, 0.118-0.236 In T, PK6 Item# 1LNE5}
 
Last edited:

torqueman2002

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torqueman2002 Thanks for taking the time to respond in such a detailed manner. I appreciate all you typed.
You bet, not a problem. A few years back, when I found I needed to replace the same parts on the Block grinders, I started keeping a list (XL file) of links, part #'s, color codes, ....

So, it's quick to share the information, when a question comes up.

BTW - If you are considering a Block grinder, and haven't found your way over to the let's see your craftsman block grinders thread, there is a lot of information and many helpful/experienced members who like/maintain the CM Block grinders.
Link --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794

However, with over 9,000 posts, it is a lot to take in.

I've attempted to gather some of the useful points on parts, restorations, safety, .... in the following link (which is also in my signature line).
Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)
Link --> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4000528#post4000528

:)
 
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smalltown

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Just curious while looking around I see a few block grinders, but most seem to have missing or broken parts. Broken flip down shields, and missing "wheel covers" on one side or both. Are people just looking around waiting for donor grinders to show up to cannibalize parts.
 

torqueman2002

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Just curious while looking around I see a few block grinders, but most seem to have missing or broken parts. Broken flip down shields, and missing "wheel covers" on one side or both. Are people just looking around waiting for donor grinders to show up to cannibalize parts.
The CM Block grinder is a sturdy built home use tool. Consequently, very few are sold for 'parts'; but, as you have noticed, there are a good many that are not complete.

Some parts are still available from Sears and erplacementparts, like the quench/cooling tray, some tool rest parts for the HD units, and center band. That's all I can recall off-hand.

Consumables, like stones, wheels, power cord, bearings, power switches, and capacitors, are readily available.

I rarely consider incomplete Blocks, just because missing parts can be near impossible to find.

My first CM pre-Block grinder (1/3-HP m-115.7566) came without the wheel guard covers. I found one about 18 months later, and the other almost 5 years later.

Here is an example of a good candidate for restoration. Not a Block, but a 1/3-HP m-115.7397, pre-pre-Block cast iron heavy little guy. The eye shields came with it, but are not shown in this shot.
P1100289.jpg


CM%200.33%20pre-pre-Block.jpg
 

1982fxr

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Just curious while looking around I see a few block grinders, but most seem to have missing or broken parts. Broken flip down shields, and missing "wheel covers" on one side or both. Are people just looking around waiting for donor grinders to show up to cannibalize parts.

Yeah common for missing items. I run an open wire wheel on the left side so I take everything off for maximum access, throw it in a box. Usually take eyeshield off the right too, I wear a faceshield
 

1982fxr

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I think all that **** gives some people a false sense of safety, like s motorcycle helmet. I wear faceshield usually with safety glasses under it, canvas apron, leather gloves.
 

oldtools

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I vote for Baldor. They are pricey but they are also silky smooth. I have four of them. Suggest looking for them at the fee market. I got them from $20 to $60.
 

torqueman2002

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I vote for Baldor. They are pricey but they are also silky smooth. I have four of them. Suggest looking for them at the fee market. I got them from $20 to $60.
Yup, Baldor is like the MB or Porsche of grinders - well engineered & built for the long haul.

What area of the country are you finding them? I'm thinking industrial NE, NYC area?
 

sberry

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I agree, shop used for a nice one but got to wonder if he is really going on the space shuttle with it? I got one I don't use, we sharpen with 4 1/2 hand held.
 
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