Bending Mini-Split Lineset - how?

[NuthinFancy]

I'm planning my mini-split installation (DIY with a Pro evacuating/filling lineset) and am wondering about bending the lineset.

Looking at the eComfort site, the lineset appears to be a pair of tubes enclosed within their own insulation, but it is unclear if they are attached to each other (figure-8) or separate lines.

If they are figure-8, bending becomes more challenging. If separate, it would seem a manual tubing bending, either coiled-tube type or professional/lever-type would be up to the task.

My installation will require the initial bend (#1) from the exit of wall unit (slightly less than 90 degrees due to angled hole through the wall) to the exterior (going from horizontal to vertical down the exterior wall) then another 90-degree bend (#2) at the bottom of the exterior wall (from vertical to horizontal) and another 90-degree bend (#3) as the lineset approaches the HP, with a likely bend (#4) to reach the HP.

As anyone who has handled thinwall tubing knows, it is all too easy to kink a soft copper line - not something I want to do with a 35-foot lineset.

Any suggestions or recommendations on how to successfully bend the lineset are welcome.

 

[PoorOwner]

It takes a gentle approach, the insulation actually help you apply even pressure. if you use something like 3"-4" radius as a "template" to bend around it will help. If you use an action like you are snapping a twig, and the result is that it would snap like one.

When you buy the lineset covers, look for the "long radius 90 degree bend". Diversitech makes them.

The worse is those outside corner that forces you turn it abruptly. Even "Pros" have screwed it up before

 

[Todd.Brock]

I have never used these, but have done it by hand. These could help apply even pressure to keep your tube from collapsing

 

[rlitman]

...If they are figure-8, bending becomes more challenging. If separate, it would seem a manual tubing bending, either coiled-tube type or professional/lever-type would be up to the task...

They're separate, though the insulation might be a figure 8.

You bend it with your fingers. Carefully.

 

[b-boy]

I have never used these, but have done it by hand. These could help apply even pressure to keep your tube from collapsing

I've used these to bend copper for immersion chillers used in brewing. I've bent 100+ft of line without any problems. They work pretty well.

 

[yeldogt]

just remember they go inside ...

 

[Git]

When I installed my Mr Slim, I bought the 'Kamco EZ Roll' because it sounded like it would be easier to work with: "Larger ID and soft temper for Ease of uncoiling "

https://www.aclinesets.com/products...less-line-set-refrigerant-line-1-4-x-1-2-x-15

One line set was 50' long and I did not have any problems gently bending it by hand. I had to come out from the wall 90 degrees and then down the wall - another 90-degree bend.

I bought everything from eComfort and when I mentioned to them that I had found the Kamco lineset cheaper elsewhere (aclinesets.com), they matched the price and it was more convenient getting everything from one place

 

[Jackfre]

I have all kinds on benders, but perhaps the spring benders would be good for you. Short money and effective. I've removed the insulation, bent the tubing and then slide the insulation back on. Be aware that soft copper work hardens. You get a roll out and it is like soft butter. Bend it once and it gets stiff. Try to bend it again and... Also, as pointed out, be real careful with the tubing coming off the evaporator.

 

[justinjoyal]

If the lines are 1/4 and 3/8 they’re both easily taken care of by hand.

1/2 and up is more challenging and you might need a bender to do a nice job.

 

[co-pilot]

If the lines are 1/4 and 3/8 they’re both easily taken care of by hand.

1/2 and up is more challenging and you might need a bender to do a nice job.

I agree with justinjoyal
I bent mine gently by hand comming out of the wall then made a big 90 off the wall to the unit
just take your time ...... it's alot easier than trying to take the linset cover off

good luck with the install....

 

[LS6 Tommy]

just remember they go inside ...

The ones shown go on the OUTSIDE of the tubing...

Tommy

 

[Retlaw 66]

It takes a gentle approach, ..... if you use something like 3"-4" radius as a "template" to bend around it will help.....

x2. Be gentle, bend a little at a time. You can bend it around anything handy that is round....a tree, a 1 qt paint can, lawn mower wheel.... you get the idea. Technically known as using a mandrel.

 

[Sticky Grips]

I'd recommend spending 200 bucks on a ratchet bender. Yellow Jacket makes one, which i have experience in my previous HVAC days. The spring benders never really did anything for me.

You can also braze bends in the lineset if its sharp.

 

[bobbyjean]

try the bending spring kit...nice price on it, installed many ductless units...i take my time with the line set and plan for trouble...the thing i had issue with were the flares from indoor section to line set...and yep i know how to flare properly...i would get callbacks occasionally..i even started cutting those sucker's out and brazing them in..then a buddy told me about nylog-its made by refrigeration technologies....seems like a thick visc. oil...but it works very well for flares and threaded joints-sorry off topic here
if the soft tubing you are workin gets a "hickey" in it... a pop torch will get those line sizes hot enough to braze ...thats one reason they make couplings

 

[justinjoyal]

try the bending spring kit...nice price on it, installed many ductless units...i take my time with the line set and plan for trouble...the thing i had issue with were the flares from indoor section to line set...and yep i know how to flare properly...i would get callbacks occasionally..i even started cutting those sucker's out and brazing them in..then a buddy told me about nylog-its made by refrigeration technologies....seems like a thick visc. oil...but it works very well for flares and threaded joints-sorry off topic here

if the soft tubing you are workin gets a "hickey" in it... a pop torch will get those line sizes hot enough to braze ...thats one reason they make couplings

Proper flares don’t need Nylog, but I am guilty of using Nylog when I install units further from home as an insurance to avoid a possible call-back.

Don’t forget you should use nitrogen if you’re gonna braze anything.