Because I followed bendpaks instructions to drill 4” down and didn’t realize the problem until it was too late. I’ll likely be installing another lift in the future and I learned this lesson the very hard way. Next time I won’t even think twice about it, I’m drilling through the concrete
Bendpak 2 post 10k lift anchor concern
- Thread starter CPete13
- Start date
finn
Well-known member
Who is the self proclaimed expert that says everything has to be perfect?
That’s not how you design things. The question is “is the factor of safety 2.1, 2.0, or 1.9?
Nobody designs to 1.0 or .99.
Also, it takes no understanding other how to operate a drill and level to become an installer. That’s a grunt job.
You guys should stick to your day jobs.
People make mistakes, I’m sure you’ve made a few in your lifetime too. You don’t have to be an a**hole in your remarks.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
If you drilled 4” deep, loosen the nut and pound the anchor in 4”. Why is the anchor only in 3.25”?
If you look at effective embedment vs nominal embedment on the bolts diagram you can see that effective embedment is roughly a half inch higher up than the bottom of the bolt so that’s what I’m basing my embedment off of. If I’m correct, effective embedment will never be 4” in a 4” hole because the anchor sits higher than the bottom of the bolt when it’s bottomed out in that hole
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Really sounds like you shouldn't have a lift. Too risky
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Beer?
Smoker
Well-known member
Crazy comments here. Guy follows the instructions. Bugs the manufacturer (twice it sounds like) who confirm if instructions are followed, its all good to go. Concrete guy says don't drill all the way through, it'll weaken the concrete when the hole blows out the bottom and takes a cone with it.. OP says hes going to drill all the way through anyways. Someone else says rip it all out and redo because, if 4" of concrete is required, 18" is just about right .. right?
Manufacturers over-engineer their designs on purpose. Often by a factor of 2 or three.
Has anyone on here thats posted hold a structural or civil engineering PE and can do the math? If not .. all conjecture.
At this point I guess just get it over with, stick a 10K lb vehicle on there and stand well back.
Manufacturers over-engineer their designs on purpose. Often by a factor of 2 or three.
Has anyone on here thats posted hold a structural or civil engineering PE and can do the math? If not .. all conjecture.
At this point I guess just get it over with, stick a 10K lb vehicle on there and stand well back.
c39er
Well-known member
Get a 4 post...set it on the slab...done.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
OK, makes sense. You have 4500 psi concrete. What does Bendpak spec? If Bendpak specs say 3000 psi, you considerable more pull out strength. Did all your bolts torque to manf spec? If so, you’re probably good.
I’ve got all the bolts torqued to 85 ft lbs currently and plan to go 95 after a vehicle has been put on it and things settle a bit, but the lift isn’t finished yet so can’t do it yet lol. You do raise a very good point about the concrete though, thank you for your input I really appreciate it!
CraigStu
Well-known member
I'd consider using angle iron for your extenders. Otherwise you need plate at least as thick as the existing bottom plate. 1/2" to 3/4" I'd guess.
racecougar
Well-known member
There are a number of base plate extension kits on the market; no need to make anything.
I had no idea, I will look into this thank you!There are a number of base plate extension kits on the market; no need to make anything.
Yes sir, the plan is to use something like this, 3/4” thick. 2 of these per post
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CraigStu
Well-known member
Well cool. An improvement for sure whether actually needed or not. If these make you comfortable, they are absolutely worth it. One other thought is think about the vehicles you commonly lift and where the center of gravity is. AT my last job as a Lexus dealer tech we had similar to these.
But both humps were of the small size. 90% of the time the LF tire was between the humps. On the big SUVs we parked just ahead of the forward hump. It was rare, but smaller cars we parked w/ the tire against the first hump. You could do something similar or just use tape to mark where the LF tire goes for various vehicles. Finally, any car you question how it is set on the lift, especially using the tall adapters, get the tires 6-8 inches off the floor, and lean for all you are worth on front or rear bumper. 2 or 3 leans to get that sucker rocking like crazy. When it survives that, you can feel real good about walking under it.
But both humps were of the small size. 90% of the time the LF tire was between the humps. On the big SUVs we parked just ahead of the forward hump. It was rare, but smaller cars we parked w/ the tire against the first hump. You could do something similar or just use tape to mark where the LF tire goes for various vehicles. Finally, any car you question how it is set on the lift, especially using the tall adapters, get the tires 6-8 inches off the floor, and lean for all you are worth on front or rear bumper. 2 or 3 leans to get that sucker rocking like crazy. When it survives that, you can feel real good about walking under it.
Yeah so this lift has the new bi metric arms so that’ll take some getting used to, this is a true symmetric lift but can also be loaded asymmetric. I used to work at a mechanic shop in town for several years and I’ve lifted probably hundreds of vehicles on a 2 post lift so I’m definitely comfortable there, but the new style arms will take a bit of learning to perfect because I was used to an asymmetric lift which is what I actually preferred but in the 10k range bendpak has discontinued all asymmetric lifts and gone strictly to symmetric posts with bi metric arms. I probably won’t buy those bumpers due to the bi metric arms and different ways to load vehicles, with my added experience of using a 2 post lift, but I’m definitely gonna buy some for my garage! My garage is real tight and I’ve got a laser system set up to park my vehicles but the damn laser heads do move sometimes and when I’ve got my vehicles parked literally within an inch of the wall, there’s no room for error lol.
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ltusler
Well-known member
I've loosened the nuts to flush with the top of the bolts, and repounded back down then retourqed. Seems to work most of the time.
LOL.
From one extreme to the other.
Do not drill through drill the concrete.
Just drill the length of the anchors less the minimum threads.
Wait, wut?
Don't go adding anchors willy nilly unless you've reviewed and understand the manufacturer's spec sheet on them. Their pullout ratings are based on minimum distances between anchors...once they get too close together, their rating starts to drop and eventually 2 anchors close together have less pullout capability than 1 anchor spaced far from the others. The holes you drill are discontinuities in the concrete! Lift makers all know this of course...the existing hole spacing in the baseplate is probably close to or at the limit.
Will be adding a plate like this to the base plate using 3 of the lifts current anchors on the one side and drilling 2 new holes next to it. All will be spaced at least as far apart as the current anchors if not further
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The bendpak lift doesn’t have any so I don’t think I’ll add any to this piece of steel but that’s good thinking. The one thing the bendpak lift does have is a cut in the base plate from each anchor hole directly to the perimeter of the steel plate. I’m honestly not sure what those cuts are for and if I need to add them to the new piece of steel or not so anyone is welcome to weigh in on that subject
What about for the socket? The corners of the nut might even be touching if the bead comes in as shown.
Those cuts are for cutter passes, most likely wire EDM is my guess, as it's too small for an end mill. You'll probably notice the holes aren't really all that round. Cuts not required.
ETA: Very surprised the anchors did not come with washers. I've bought a lot of wedge anchors, and they've all come paired with a nut and washer. Pretty standard for all bolted joints with flat-bottom fasteners. Consider adding some anyway.
Those cuts are for cutter passes, most likely wire EDM is my guess, as it's too small for an end mill. You'll probably notice the holes aren't really all that round. Cuts not required.
ETA: Very surprised the anchors did not come with washers. I've bought a lot of wedge anchors, and they've all come paired with a nut and washer. Pretty standard for all bolted joints with flat-bottom fasteners. Consider adding some anyway.
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This is just a rough sketch, it’s not to scale or anything yet so it will definitely change before the final product.
That’s good to know about those cuts though, thank you!
This thread is ridiculous.
I can guarantee that those were NOT cut using a wire EDM. Would be stupid to use a high precision cutting method for a rough piece of structural steel. That's likely plasma, maybe laser.
Stick-man
Well-known member
I know what the OP is going through. I am cursed with the OCD conscience. And yes, this would drive me nuts. I am just glad I just bought a 4 post and I doubt I will/would ever own a 2 post.
That said, I am really disappointed in how chicom cheap the anchors that came with my BendPak look. I have use thousands of wedge anchors and I like Hilti the best. Unfortunately, I have a sh!t ton of 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8, but no 3/4. So I guess I will use the supplied, knowing that any anchor will do with a 4 post.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I guess I would just go with it if it is in spec, and hope for the best.
That said, I am really disappointed in how chicom cheap the anchors that came with my BendPak look. I have use thousands of wedge anchors and I like Hilti the best. Unfortunately, I have a sh!t ton of 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8, but no 3/4. So I guess I will use the supplied, knowing that any anchor will do with a 4 post.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I guess I would just go with it if it is in spec, and hope for the best.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Only you can decide what authority you will trust, seemingly the manufacturer's(who have considerable skin in the game) expertise is not enough. Contact the Automotive Lift Institute with your concerns if this still bothers you.
I vacillate between sympathy and annoyance with OCD types, mostly the latter.
Has your concrete been tested? Welds inspected? GAH!
I vacillate between sympathy and annoyance with OCD types, mostly the latter.
Has your concrete been tested? Welds inspected? GAH!
Thank you, I really appreciate your input. It’s both a blessing and a curse because it causes additional stress, but I also feel that thinking this way has prevented some very costly mistakes for me as well on other projects before, but you can’t always think of everything!
KSJeff
Well-known member
That's a lot of anchors. I have half that many in my 2 post Forward lift and I've had a Ford F350 up in the air for days on it.
That wouldn't concern me one bit.
That wouldn't concern me one bit.
ratflinger
Well-known member
I'm sorry, but you have issues, and they aren't the mechanical kind. Bendpak says your unit is fine, twice. They are legally liable, so don't you think they have tested their statements?
I’ve been looking for someone with real world results, thank you!
Everybody has their own opinions, and while I appreciate your input I find it odd that you have to resort to insults in your replies.
Would you mind sending me pics of your anchor setup if you have time? Also, does your screen name mean you’re from Kansas?
KSJeff
Well-known member
Sure and yes, I'm in Andover. Give me a few to go snap some pics.
Thank you! I’m a little over an hour away from you in lindsborg lol, small world.
KSJeff
Well-known member
Great pics I really appreciate it! Can I ask what that lift is rated for and what’s the heaviest thing you’ve had on it?